The Fresh Loaf

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yozzause's picture
yozzause

Yesterday was the dinner  for CHAINES DES ROTESSIUERS

I had agreed to make my home brew stout bread for the occassion so after starting off the soak of stout and wholemeal at 8.30 in the morning i took to my normal purchasing duties until lunch time and then with thanks to my manager was allowed to go down to the kitchen.

The soak consisting of 2kgs of organic wholemeal and 500g of ryemeal 200g of sour dough starter 2.1Litres of home brew stout and a further 700mls of water, i could have used my last bottle of stout but wanted to reserve that for colleagues to sample to see if they thought that the flavours had carried through.

The rest of the dough was formed by 2.5Kg flour 100g salt, 100g gluten, 75g dried yeast 200g malt extract from a brew kit, 100g butter.

As the mix was coming together a generous litre of water was added which bought the liquid content to 76% it was sticky and possibly a little less may have been better.

The dough when mixed was placed in a large bucket  and for the benefit of the two mature age overseas students that were assisting me a mark placed on the side. the 2 students one from Taiwan and the other from Malaysia along with another 3 from our college have just been chosen to assist with the food for CHOGM (Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting) that is being held in Perth very soon. 

DOUGH MIXED IN BUCKET FOR PROOF I was anticipating a 2hour bulkfermentaion period with 1.5% yeast but with the soak in active bottle fermented stout and an addition of sour dough culture it came through quicker than anticipated

in fact as can be seen ready in 1 hour

50 g dinner rolls  out of the oven

 

 

  

there wes plenty of extra dough so sticks and a couple of loaves were made the sticks i gave to the visiting chefs to take home and was much appreciated

some bread with the french butter

also attached the menu for the evening i didnt stay for the meal and got away not long after my normal knock off time i did have the stich with some nice blue costello and tomato and cucumber.

     

CHAINE CHEFS DINNER 2011

 

canapés

Chef Marco Bijl –

Prawn with jackfruit and lime chutney

Crevettes et son chutney de jackfruit et citron vert

Peppered beef with caramelised onion jam on a German rye

Boeuf au poivre avec sa confiture d’onion caramelisee sur canapés de son

Duck breast on orange salad

Magret de canard et sur salad a l orange

Smoked Salmon with Japanese mayonnaise topped with Wasabi

Saumon fume avec sa mayonnaise Japonaise et wasabi

champagne

TEAM CHALLENGER INSTITUTE: fresh breads & beurre d’isigny (normandy)

Pain du jour et beurre d’ Isigny (Normandie)

CHEF PHIL WESTWOOD/ CHALLENGER INSTITUTE – quail flambé with port/pink pepper jus, golden egg & enoki mushroom garni

Caille Flambee et son jus de poivre rose au porto

Oeuf d or et champignon Enoki garni

d’Arenburg sparkling red chambourcin (Aus)

CHEF GRAEME SHAPIRO/ WILD POPPY- pork belly in caramel with crispy crab, pork & crab relish

Travers de porc au caramel et crabe croustillant, accompagnee d une compote de crab and porc

trois mont bier (Fr.)

 

CHEF DOUGLASS KERR/ BOUCHARD RESTAURANT-Pan fried line caught fish, petit pois a la francaise, potato and clam veloute.

Poisson de ligne et son veloute de  petits pois a la francaise, pommes de terre et coques

wine

CHEF LUKE WAKEFIELD/ NATIONAL JEUNE CHEF 2010- corn fed chicken gallontine, sweet corn croquette, chanterelle fricassee, tomato essence

Gallantine de poulet de ferme aux grains, croquette de mais, fricassee de chanterelles et essence de tomate

Tricastin La Ciboise Blanc (cotes du rhone) ’09 (Fr.)

CHEF SOREN KOBERSTEIN/ GEORGE ST. BISTRO- sour beef cheeks, almond & sultana jus, brussel sprouts

Joue de boeuf aigre douce au jus de raisins et amandes

pirathon by kalleske ’09 (Barossa)

CHEF MATTHEW LADKIN/ FRIENDS RESTAURANT- coconut pannacotta, pineapple carpaccio & raspberry and mint salad.

Crème de noix de coco accompagnee d un carpaccio de framboises et ananas

Wine

DAVID MOPIN/ PHIL WESTWOOD/ TEAM CHALLENGER INSTITUTE-coffee & petit fours

Café, petits fours

Service: Jeanette Paladino & Clare Russel.              Beverages: Gary Bird.

Supported by Food and Beverage Students & Trainees

 regards yozza

ananda's picture
ananda

September’s Baking 2011

 The new job is proving to be very demanding, as I should have anticipated!   A last minute appointment in a very busy baking school inevitably means there is a lot to do.   And staying in Leeds for 2 nights, away from home, is not easy to adapt to, even though I have been made so welcome by friends who offered me a place nearby to stay when this job first became a real possibility.   It will remain difficult for Alison and me to deal throughout the year, for sure.

On the bread front, I have made the following breads, in addition to the Kamut ® loaves recently posted.

A Borodinsky mainly following Auerman’s techniques, but using crushed roasted barley instead of crystal barley malt powder, as posted here: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/24237/celebrating-rye-breads   I wondered if it may prove to have a burnt, or, bitter taste to it, but the flavour was really lovely in the finished bread.   I used Organic Rye Flakes as a topping on the bread rather than freshly ground coriander seeds.

 

Borodinsky using a “Scald”

Makes 1 “Pullman Pan”

Material

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1. Rye Sourdough 2 refreshments, 80g stock

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

30

300

Water

50

500

TOTAL

80

800

 

 

 

2. “Scald”

 

 

Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour

20

200

Crushed Roasted Barley

4.5

45

Organic Blackstrap Molasses

6

60

Coriander Seeds-ground

1

10

Salt

1

10

Water

35

350

TOTAL

67.5

675

 

 

 

3. Final Paste

 

 

Rye Sourdough [from above]

80

800

Scald [from above]

67.5

675

Bacheldre Organic DarkRye Flour

25

250

Gilchesters Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour

25

250

TOTAL

197.5

1975

Overall Hydration

85%

-

Pre-fermented Flour

30%

-

FACTOR

10

-

 

Gilchesters Miche

The good news is that the wood-fired oven fired really well today.   I had to hand-mix over 5kg of dough first thing this morning.   This is quite a challenge with weak Northumbrian flour and hydration at 78%!   The 1 hour autolyse is essential, then gently working the dough on the bench to develop the gluten over a lengthy time period also makes life easier.   I used 2½ hour bulk with one S&F before scaling, dividing and shaping.   I made 2 loaves scaled at 1660g and 2 at 835g.   Final proof was a further 2½ hours.   I baked out the bigger loaves for just short of 1 hour.   More detail on this formula is available here: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/24911/gilchesters-miche-and-borodinsky-bread and 

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/23811/miche-using-stiff-levain-and-gilchesters-organic-farmhouse-flour

In the meantime I built a really good fire in the oven.   Once “scuffled” out, the oven settled at around 300°C, with the top heat radiating from the curved roof particularly effectively.  

Material

Formula [% of flour]

Recipe [grams]

1. Refreshed Leaven, 3 refreshments from 40g stock

 

 

Total Flour [Carrs Special CC]

27

756

Total Water

16

448

TOTAL

43

1204

 

 

 

2. Final Dough

 

 

Leaven

43 [27 flour, 16, water]

1204

Gilchesters Organic Farmhouse Flour

73

2044

Salt

1.79

50

Water

62

1736

TOTAL

179.79

5034

% pre-fermented flour

27

-

% overall hydration

78

-

FACTOR

28

-

 

Lots of photographs are attached.

Top heat reading from the roof of the oven; Infra Red laser point thermometer

Bottom heat reading after one hour of baking, with the oven door ajar for 10 minutes

                                                                                                                  Thin Cell Walls, above

and the finished crumb, close-up, below:

 

I’m finding it quite difficult to keep up with everyone’s posts on TFL at the moment with my midweek schedule journeying to Leeds and back.   Apologies if I’ve not kept in touch with everyone’s baking activities.

All good wishes

Andy

ronnie g's picture
ronnie g

My hubby can't get enough of these babies.  If I ask him 'What bread should I make?' his reply is ALWAYS 'Baguettes!'  I just use Chad Robertson's baguette recipe, but substitute 150g organic wholemeal stoneground flour for part of the all purpose flour in the final mix and add 65g extra water.

Floydm's picture
Floydm

Fall is here and my baking reflects it.  Today it was zucchini muffins.  Earlier this week it was a grape focaccia.

My grapes are Concords.  I remembered ZolaBlue's beautiful Concord Grape Focaccia but ended up using a recipe and technique for a Rosemary Grape Focaccia with Sea Salt from Dan Leader's Local Breads.  

As you can imagine, it is more savory than sweet.  Though I used a poolish, the dough was a bit plain and pale, seemingly underfermented.  It improved a bit the next day.  

There are more Concords on my vines, so I may try the sweet version soon.  Or I wonder if it would be good to combine the two and use sugar instead of salt with grapes and rosemary?  Hm....

wassisname's picture
wassisname

     I've had salzstangerl (salt sticks) on the brain for a while now. I loved these in my younger days and ever since I saw them mentioned in Bread I've been looking for an excuse to try them.  Hamelman recommends his 40% rye sourdough dough for the purpose.  It's been quite a few years since I've had one, but I can say with confidence that the German bakeries in southern California I once frequented were not using a dough like this.  They were more like straight pretzels.  Probably no rye and certainly not sourdough.  As with most breads I'm sure there are innumerable variations, but I'm a sucker for rye sourdoughs so I went in the Hamelman direction. 
     I already have a 30% rye that I like so I used that instead of the recommended 40% rye.  The dough came together nicely, then I began shaping...  oh, the poor unsuspecting dough.  The look I was going for was a long, slender, gently tapered roll.  Imagine a croissant, without the layers, and straight, and not so plump in the middle, and sprinkled with coarse salt and caraway seeds.  Easy, right?  Heh, heh, heh...   I was laughing aloud by the time I "shaped" the last of them.  "Sea slug" was the first association that popped into my head.  Having since looked-up photos of sea slugs I don't think that was entirely fair... to the slugs.  Ba-dum-bum!
     They still turned out pretty well, but not quite what I was after.  The recipe for Czech Crescent Rolls in Leader's Local Breads actually sounds closer to what I remember.  I think somewhere in the middle is where I want to be.  The next batch will have less rye, less prefermented flour, and lower hydration.  I'll add some butter and maybe some yeast.  And now that I know how not to cut the triangles the dough will be less abused during shaping. 

 

The nice surprise came from the other half of the same dough:

Clearly this is what this dough was meant for.  I was really happy with this one (though, by the look of the crumb, I still need to work on the ol' shaping skills) and it only got made because I didn't feel like shaping another pan of salzstangerl!  The dough is 30% whole rye (all fermented @ 100% hydration) with a final hydration of about 70%.

I've been tinkering with my oven set-up, testing the lower limit of my top stone placement.  The loaf sprang more than I ever thought it would and just touched the rack above it.  That's cutting it a little too close!

-Marcus

Ryan Sandler's picture
Ryan Sandler

One of my favorite sourdough variations is inspired by a combination of the classic blue cheese and walnut sourdough (which I've never made because I don't like blue cheese) and a twisted sourdough with chunks of dark chocolate that I got from a bakery in Chelsea Market in Manhatten on a family vacation some years back. The combination: sourdough with dark chocolate and walnuts.

It's best as a breakfast bread: a little too sweet for dinner, but too bread-y for dessert. The dark chocolate is overpowering when melted, so the trick is to bake it the night before you want to eat it, and let it cool overnight so the chocolate hardens. The taste is delectable: the sour of the bread and the chewiness of the crust combines with the crunchy nuts, and the bitter-sour flavors of the dark chocolate, all infused with the walnut oil.

I've made it with several different sourdough formulas, but last night I baked up a batch based on David Snyder's famous San Joaquin Sourdough, to good effect.

Formula: (All credit goes to dmsnyder's post here)

  • 450g King Arthur AP flour (90%)
  • 25g WW Flour (5%)
  • 25g Whole Rye Flour (5%)
  • 150g Active Starter at 100% hydration (30%)
  • 360g Water (72%)
  • 10g Salt (2%)
  • 125g Coursely chopped walnuts (or broken by hand) (25%)
  • 100g Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chips (20%) (ideal for their shape, and for being excellent chocolate a a bargain price)
  1. Mix flours, water and starter (David likes to mix the water and starter first; I don't know if it matters).  Autolyze 20-60 minutes.
  2. Add salt, walnuts and chocolate, then do 30 stretch-and-folds in the bowl.
  3. Cover tightly and ferment 3 hours at room temperature.  Repeat the stretch-and-folds in the bowl at 30, 60 and 90 minutes, then a french-fold on the board at 135 and 180 minutes.
  4. Place in refrigerator for 18-21 hours.  
  5. Remove dough from refrigerator, divide in half and pre-shape as rounds.  Allow to rest 1 hour.
  6. Shape as batards or boules, and place in a couche or banneton, as appropriate.  Preheat oven to 500 degrees with baking stone.  
  7. Proof loaves 45 minutes, then transfer to parchment on a sheet pan/peel, score and load in oven.  Steam using your favorite method, and lower temperature to 460.  
  8. Bake 30 minutes, turning loaves and removing any steaming apparatus after 15.  Turn off oven and crack the door for 5 minutes, then remove loaves to a cooling rack.  Cool at least 8 hours before eating.
 
pmccool's picture
pmccool

Today was a fun day, featuring a thoroughly informal and just as thoroughly entertaining class on how to make bread.  Eight friends and acquaintances received a lesson on making a honey whole-wheat bread.  Two of them thought that they would just observe but we had them up to their elbows in flour along with the rest of the group in no time flat. 

It was raucous and messy and fast-paced.  Lots of questions (good ones!) and lots of interest.  At the end, we helped Joan clean up her kitchen and get things put back to rights.  Afterward, everyone took their shaped and panned dough home for the final rise and baking.  I've already seen a couple of FB posts.

The format was simple.  Everyone brought their own utensils and I supplied the ingredients since I need to clean out the pantry anyway.  I had a sheet with the recipe and instructions printed up for each student, along with another tip sheet that, among other things, referenced TFL.  I had everyone weighing and measuring after a minimal intro, then used the autolyze time to go into a bit more detail and field questions.  There was one bobble, mine, while assembling the final dough, in that I forgot to have them put the butter in the dough.  So much for practicing mise en place!  Anyway, it was a good opportunity to demonstrate that just about any mistake is recoverable and that adjustments are inevitable even without mistakes.

We used the time for the bulk ferment to munch on a loaf of Sweet Vanilla Challah that I had brought along for that purpose, along with the demo loaf of the honey whole-wheat that I had prepared in advance.  Bonus discovery of the day: challah smeared with Nutella and coconut butter is way more than just good.  Next time you're in Florida, pick up a jar of the coconut butter.  Just sayin'.

Some pictures:

I'm pretty sure that at least one or two will use this as a launch pad for further baking on their own.  Even if it doesn't become something that they choose to do consistently, they at least have the knowledge that they can make bread on their own.  And that it can be a lot of fun.  That's a good thing to have.

Paul

lumos's picture
lumos

 This is my version of bread which became very popular in Japan some years ago.  Apparently some Italian restaurant in Tokyo started serving this some years ago and it became so popular,  other restaurants and bakers followed suit, so did home bakers.

 It’s basically basic French lean dough made with small amount of yeast and long, cold retardation, filled with young green soya beans or young broad beans and  Pecorino or Parmesan.  It would’ve be  more ‘Italian’ if you use broad beans, but 'edamame' (枝豆 = young soya beans) version seems to be slightly  more popular there; a sort of French got married to Italian by Japanese matchmaker. :p

  My verson uses same dough as my regular baguette dough (Hamelinet poolish baguette).  To that, I add about 60-70g young soya beans (frozen. Defrosted) and 30-40g Parmigiana Reggiano (chopped small) by scattering them over the dough when letter-folding the dough twice to shape it into a pave just before the dough goes into the final proof. 

Sometimes I bake it large like that, in that case in a pre-heated Pyrex casserole with a lid on for 20 minutes @ 240C and another 20 minutes without a lid @ 200C, like this......

(Using a Pyrex casserole upside down, the lid as a cover)

 

Other times, I cut it into 6 small pieces, like petite paves (no need to shape. just cut it with sharp bench knife),  bake them for 10 minutes @ 240C with steam on hot baking stone and 10-12 minutes more without steam @ 200C, as it's always done in Japan.  (For some reason, they seem to think that sort of roughly cut small rolls, like petite pave are called ‘rustique.’  Another case of something lost in translation….:p) 

 

And these are how they look like….

A large pave

 

 

This large one was for my friend, so no crumb shot, but here’s the petite pave version I baked a few weeks ago for ourselves…..of which I only remembered to take a photo after I sliced into the last remaining piece. Blame my brain….

 

Note :  You can adjust the amount of soya/broad beans and cheese to your liking, of course, but please try not to  over-load with cheese too much.  Cheesy note is supposed to be in the background of this bread as a contrast to bring out the delicate sweetness of flavour and aroma of young beans, not to overwhelm it.  The beans are in the leading role and the cheese is there to support it.

 

 lumos

Loavesoffun's picture
Loavesoffun

Yesterday did the prelim work to creating my first loaf. 

Just using the directions from the Sourdough Intl. book this time around. 

Pulled my starters from the fridge and fed them.

Waited.

Removed the prescribed amount of starter from the jars and then added the flour and salt water mixture. I let my Kitchen Aid do all of the mixing and kneading.

Fed the two starter jars in preparation for putting them to sleep in the fridge.  I had planned to put them into the fridge before going to get my kids from school. 

Got home and was very surprised to see that both jars (still on the countertop) had overflowed all down the sides into puddles on the counter.  Guess they just got away from me... OOPS! 

As a result, I had to do something with the excess.  Pulled out the Kitchen Aid and started making another loaf.

Got the mess all cleaned up.  Transferred the starters to clean jars.  Then ping.... they now have their names.  My runaway starters are now and forever called Thelma and Louise

 

Loavesoffun's picture
Loavesoffun

Last Saturday I started my SFO sourdough starter from Sourdoughs, Intl.   As a newbie to breadmaking and especially to sourdough starters the directions were a bit complicated. 

Tried the lightbulb and styrofoam for a proof box and was glad I tested the temp before starting my starter.  Temps got up to 102 degrees!

I ended up proofing inside my oven with the light turned on.  Temps stayed steady at about 91 degrees.

Second stage proofing was done at room temp.

My starter was very active by Tuesday/Wednesday.

I saved all of my throw aways with a plan to make pancakes.

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