The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

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Floydm's picture
Floydm

I hope everyone is having a good late summer, early fall.  

Things have been remarkable busy in my household the past few months and only appear to be getting busier the next few months. But I have been baking when I can.  

Mostly I've been baking sourdough boules, these sorts of things.

My basic formula is 72% hydration with 20% whole grain flour, though I tend to experiment and make it lighter or grainer based on what other breads we have in the house, what we are going to have for dinner, or what sort of loaf I am craving. 

I am baking these in my enamel pots, which are cheap and pose no risk to our oven.

 We do enjoy them!

* * *

Also worth mentioning that I was contacted a few weeks ago by the folks at Craftsy, an online hobby training video site that a few community members have mentioned. I typically turn away solicitations and advertising partnership requests, but my interest was piqued when I saw they had an Artisan Bread Making class taught by Peter Reinhart as well as a Sourdough Bread Making class taught by Richard Miscovich (there is also a shorter free pizza making class taught by Peter as well). Both Peter and Richard teach at Johnson & Wales and are highly respected both as bakers and as instructors. I've taken classes or worked with both and respect them both immensely.

So I signed up for the Craftsy affiliate program (which means this isn't a paid post, but if you click through one of those links and sign up for a class there, I get a cut) and am working my way through Peter and Richard's videos. I've enjoyed what I've seen so far.

Have other folks taking these classes? Your impressions?

bbegley's picture
bbegley

500g KABF 100%

100g Oven roasted Sweet Potato 20%

14g Sea Salt 2.5%ish

1/4tsp DA Yeast

400g Water

In stand mixer, combine flour, water, and yeast.  Autolyze 20 min.  Add salt and Sweet Potato mash and mix on speed 2 for 10 minutes until gluten is formed.  Form into ball and put into greased bowl, S+F every 20 min for an hour.  Put in covered container and refrigerate over night/12 hours.  Pull out of fridge in the morning, let it come to room temp and shape into boule.  Proof for an hour.  Bake in Dutch Oven at 500 degrees for 25 min.  Remove lid and drop temp to 450 and finish baking for another 25 min.  

I was pleased with the flavor, texture, and crumb.  I need work in keeping the oven spring vertical, vs horizontal.  It always seems to flatten out in the process, most likely a shaping issue.

And the last pic.  Cheers!

(Not sure why it's displaying horizontal instead of vert.)

linder's picture
linder

Today we baked some more San Joaquin Sourdough in the Dutch oven over charcoal.  This time I upped the whole wheat to 300 grams, added 10 grams of water to the initial mix and used pumpernickel flour in place of the dark rye.  One glitch in transfer to the pot was my handkerchief flour lined bread bowl wasn't floured enough so the bread stuck to the kerchief, but a quick whack with the bread knife/lame took care of it. 

Heating the charcoal

Waiting for the bread to bake -

The finished loaf -

The "proof" is in the pudding(er --- bread).

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Here is Lucy's latest version of here fruit stupid.  The black plumbs were replaced by empire prune plumbs, the Nutella was replaced by mini chocolate chips and pecan pieces, the bread crust was replaced by a short crust pastry and the berries were replaced by nectarines and peaches.

 

She also chucked in some apple slices to separate the plums om top.  So this one is totally different except for the spiral design with the plums on top.  We sprinkled turbinado sugar on top and then glazed it with some thinned out, home made, Minneola marmalade.

It was baked at 400 F for 20 minutes and then turned down to 350 F and baked another 30 minutes.  We expect this one to be even better than Lucy's first attempt at being fruit stupid but will have to wait until dinner dessert to find out for sure.  Lucy is trying to make up for snarfing down that Fat Bag loaf yesterday.

Lucy did put 1/3 C of brown sugar and some pumpkin pie spices; 1 teaspoon,  in the peach and nectarine layer . 

squarehead's picture
squarehead

Always tinkering with the formula but basically this loaf came in at 30%ww, 10%rye, 60% artisan bread flour (central milling). The hydration came in at about 81% this time. Mixed, autolyzed, 3 s+f at 20 min plus 2 more s+f at 30 min. Bulk rise 1.5 hrs, divided, preshaped, rested 20 min, shaped and placed in rice floured basket, then cold retarded for 10 hrs. Baked in cast iron Dutch oven at 450 for 20 min covered, then 20 min uncovered. I was pretty happy with this one, the crumb came out as I was hoping and the loaf had oven spring. 

Catomi's picture
Catomi

Awhile ago I bought a screen for bolting flour. I'd done a bit of reading and it sounded like nothing but a good thing; you get the nutritional and flavor benefits of whole grain, with the structure of white flour. I made several loaves using Bob's Red Mill flour, shaking it through the screen to produce maybe 1/4 cup of chaff for the 500 g of flour I needed for my recipe. I couldn't really tell if it was making a difference (I should really do a comparison bake, but frankly my time is limited and I'd want to have plenty of flexibility for a project like that), but I did it anyway. Then last week, at a grocery store that specializes in locally produced foods, I found a bag of Ernst Farms stone ground flour. Exciting! I had no idea what type of flour it was, but still, exciting! And earlier this week, I made bread with it. I used the same recipe I've been primarily making, Tartine's Ode to Bourdin (100% whole wheat sourdough). 

 The first thing I noticed was that the flour was much coarser than BRM. Using the same screen, in order to produce 500 g of bolted flour I generated 355 g chaff. Here's a photo of the bolted flour next to the chaff.  And here's one showing all the flours I used. The base is the bolted Ernst Farms flour. Then clockwise from top left are wheat germ, unbolted Ernst Farms flour, and King Arthur white whole wheat flour.  

The flour seemed wetter when I was mixing the autolyse and leaven. I found myself wondering if acting more like white flour meant that bolted flour also absorbs less water, since I know whole wheat tends to be thirstier than white flour. At this point I should have engaged brain and left out the additional 50 g of water called for in the recipe, but I had been using it to dissolve the leaven and make it easier to incorporate into the autolyse so that's what I did. Oh well, this would be extra practice handling wet doughs. 

 The dough also seemed stretchier during stretch and folds. I don't know if there's a standard of measure for stretchiness - how far you can stretch a given volume of dough before it tears? - but it seemed like I was raising my hands pretty high before reaching that point. Things got more entertaining when it was time to shape the dough. I had been planning to deflate pretty thoroughly and expect it to take a long time during the final fermentation. As it turns out, I didn't have a choice. The dough was wet, gloppy (my three year old's new favorite word), and very, very friendly. It attempted first to eat my hands, and then when I'd managed to separate it into two roughly round forms, the rounds went looking for each other and tried to meet up again in the middle. I did my final shaping and deposited them, roughly seam side up (though they were attempting to eat my hands again, despite them being quite wet, so I felt like I was creating new seams every time I touched them), in bowls lined with a very generous quantity of the bran I winnowed out of the flour. Then I stuck them in the fridge overnight in the hope that they would be better behaved, cold, in the morning.  In the morning they seemed rather flatter than I might have expected, and still spread a little in the time it took me to invert them onto parchment paper, slash them and get them in the preheated cast iron pots. That said, I did a finger poke test on both of them and they still seemed rather springy, so I figured at worst they were underproofed and I'd get great oven spring (total time in the fridge for final ferment was 12 hours). I steamed them at 500 degrees F for 20 minutes, then 425 degrees for 10 minutes. Then I took the lids off, rotated the pots and finished baking for 10 minutes at 425 degrees. Internal temps were 210 and 212 degrees F. Here is one just before going in the oven: The loaves were flatter than I expected. There was little to no oven spring, and they were paler than I might have expected. Both loaves:

Crumb shot. Nice and open, moist, chewy. Not a very complex flavor, mild, no real sourdough tang. 

 So now I'm wondering whether I got my hands on some green flour (there's no date on the bag to indicate when it was milled), or if my dough was just overhydrated. I'm leaning towards overhydrated because the flatness and poor oven spring are the only markers of green flour that I see (the others are dense crumb and tough crust - all that I know about green flour I learned here: http://tartine-bread.blogspot.com/2014/02/sidebar-sunday-michette.html). I don't know if overhydration would affect oven spring, though, and my searches aren't turning up info on overhydration and oven spring.  

Thoughts?

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

We are out of white bread again.  Not surprising really since we don’t make much white bread and, when we do, Lucy puts at least 20% whole grain in it…. to tan it some and get rid of that blinding white crumb so damaging to the eyes of anyone who should be exposed to retina debilitating, white bread.

 

This version had equal parts of 8 different whole grains that were home milled.  Per our usual MO, Lucy specified that the hard bits be extracted from the grind resulting in a 17% extraction of the hard bits.

 

This was fed to 6g of 3 week refrigerated 100% hydration starter.  Normally we keep our starter in the fridge at 66% hydration but after 12 weeks it was a little weak and Lucy felt sorry for it being in such a weakened state

 

I think I see a Varda Knob on that Nury Style Fat Bag.

There wasn’t enough hard bits to make the whole levain since the 20% of whole grains only produced 21 g of 17% extraction so we chucked in another 30 g of the 83% extraction flour to make the small 10% levain.  We used our progressively larger 3 stage build for the levain and it easily doubled in 4 hours after the 2nd feeding so we refrigerated it for 24 hours when it rose 50% after the 3rd feeding. 

 

Normally we would do a 1 hour autolyse, 3 sets of slap and folds, 3 stets of stretch and folds and retard a shaped boule right after gluten development for 12 -18 hours and bake it the next day either cold if it fully proofed in the fridge or we would let them warm up on the counter to finish proofing before baking.  We like the safety net

 

The Nury Fat Bag did crack at the underneath seam so I'm guesing it was over proofed at 95%.

 But after David Snyder’s San Joaquin post and Alphonso’s baguette post this week Lucy decided to combine the 2 methods, with some of David’s SFSD while incorporating a little bit of Pierre Nury’s  2” end to end pull, after proofing, shaping method for his Rustic Light Rye bread we love so much.   These 4 methods combined all in one is never too much for a German Bread Baking Apprentice 2nd Class…… whose motto is’ Go ahead sucka’ ….bring any kind of bread on at any time!’

 

That is some nice cod under those crab cakes.

So, this one ended up being its own untested, possible scientific oddity producing method that didn’t end up resembling any previous known one for bread making – at least not one that  Lucy had ever heard of or seen around anywhere that ended up being 2 thin batards – one slashed and one stretched without slashing.

 

We have somethng Chinese or Oriental evey week like this Chicken Chow Mein.

We love batards because we have a hard time shaping them and they let us use our bamboo, bartard shaping helper thingamajig we found at Goodwill which hardly gets used at all.  I hate buying stuff at Goodwill and then not using it.

  

2" thick Ahi Tuna is best cooked no more thsn 2 minutes a side on the grill - yummy with a citrus Siracha sauce!

We took the levain out of the fridge to let it finish its doubling after the 3rd build and retard – like David Snyder’s SFSD.  We also autolysed the dough flour, 100 g of KA bread flour and the rest being 10% protein Pillsbury AP, for 1 hour holding back 10 g of dough water for mixing in the salt later.  Like David’s San Joaquin.  We also did 30 minutes of bulk ferment with the autolyse and the levain for 30 minutes - with the salt sprinkled on top.

 

This bread made a fine knobby bologna sandwich for lunch when turned inside out with the crust inside.

Once the salt and 10 grams of water were mixed in by squeezing the dough through our fingers, we did 1 minute of slap and folds to make sure everything was distributed.  30 minutes later we did another 1 minute of slap and folds.  These were followed by 4 sets of David’s style stretch and folds in the bowl also on 30 minute intervals.  The gluten was coming along nicely by the end of the gluten development.

 

We then did a 22 hour bulk retard ala Alphonso, in a oil coated, ceramic bowl where we hoped the no knead technique would strengthen the gluten further – and it did.  When we took the dough out of the fridge it had risen 70%.  Surprisingly the dough was fairly extensible even though a cold 38 F.

 

We pre-shaped it into thin, longer batards or fattish, short baguettes – now known as Lucy’s Fat Bags with baguettes being small bags.  5 minutes later we final shaped them.  After final shaping we put Lucy’s Fat Bags seam side down onto parchment that was lining the bamboo form.

 

Instead of letting them proof for a couple of hours and baking, we decided to do another long shaped retard of 22 hours ala David Snyder’s SFSD.   We have done a combined double long retard of 42 hours total before….. when following a weird no knead SD recipe so Lucy decided, what the heck?  A few slap and folds and stretch and folds shouldn’t get in the way of a doubly sever retarded dough - when it comes to SD bread!

 

Lunch the next day pointed out that this 8 grain 20% whole grain bread was sourer after a day of aging.  But ,when paired next to the 10 grain, 50% whole grain bread (at the same hydration) the whiter bread of this week's bake really looks white even though the holes are similar.  Guess that 50% whole grain loaf was pretty special after all:-)  Here is the 10 grain 50% whole grain post 10 Grain 50 Percent Whole Grain Sourdough - Back To The Old Sourdough Ways

 The next day once the dough came out of the fridge if we wanted to let it warm up or bake it on the cold side depending on how ell it final proofed over the last 21 hours.  We decided to let it warm up for an hour as we heated Big Old Betsy up to 550 F and readied the mega steam of 2 of Sylvia’s steaming towel cups and a pan of lava rocks – all half full of water.

 

15 minutes later the Mega Steam was Mega Enough.   We moved the parchment laden with proofed dough to a peel and slashing one of the Fat Bags and pulled the other one out 4 ".  Both were over proofed .  The scored Fat Bag was impossible to score with the razor just dragging along the the wet, poofy surface.   We forgot to flip the Nury style one over so it would bake seam side up and open along it but did mange a knobbu end for some fun.  We loaded them onto the bottom stone as we turned the oven down to 475 F.   After 10 minutes of steam it was removed and the oven turned down to 425 F- convection.

 

Chicken and veggie kabob.

10 minutes later, 20 minutes total, the Fat Bags hit 205 F on the inside, declared done and they were removed to the cooling rack.  The Fat Bags sprang a little, bloomed a bit but browned well with the stretched version, ala Nury, cracking naturally where they pleased - on the underside.  The crust came out of the oven very crispy and blistered.   The crust stayed crisp too.   It looks like we will have and OK crumb on these  but will have to wait for lunch to cut into them.  The crumb turned out soft, moist, light and glossy with holes that were smaller than we expected.  The taste is superb and this bread is now one of our favorite white breads.

 

Formula

Multigrain SD Levain

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

3 Week Retarded Rye Starter

6

0

0

6

1.25%

MG 17% Extraction Mix

6

15

0

21

4.37%

MG 83% Extraction Mix

0

0

30

30

6.24%

Water

6

15

30

51

10.60%

Total

18

30

60

108

22.45%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain Totals

 

%

 

 

 

Multigrain Whole Flour

54

11.23%

 

 

 

Water

54

11.23%

 

 

 

Levain Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour

10.09%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

83% Extraction Multigrain

45

9.36%

 

 

 

Bread Flour 100 & AP Mix

436

90.64%

 

 

 

Total Dough Flour

481

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

10

1.87%

 

 

 

Water

361

75.05%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

75.05%

 

 

 

 

Total Flour w/ Starter

535

 

 

 

 

Water w/ Starter

415

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration with Starter

77.57%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

960

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whole Grain %

20.58%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multi-Whole Grain Mix is equal parts of: buckwheat.

 

 

 barley, farro. einkorn, Desert Durum, rye , spelt & wheat

 

 

Lucy always reminds me to never forget a fine salad wih lunch and dinner - or last Friday's 2 Fig, Pistachio, Sunflower and Pumpkin Seed bake - just delicious.

 

golgi70's picture
golgi70

You know your in a drought when it feels strange to have rain up here in Northern California where it usually rains nearly half the year.  Some can't handle it but I've come to love it.  I get to live just minutes from a variety of beautiful beaches, have a Redwood Forest for a backyard, and an amazing marsh that draws a ridiculous variety of bird life.  Not to mention just an hour from beautiful rivers and mountains going the other direction.  Finally it rained yesterday.  And instead of the non stop mist we are so accustomed too it actually down poured with thunder and lightning.  And we need it desperately with all the wildfires going on.  Let's hope for a wet winter up on the Pacific Northwest.  

I thought I'd share some bread I've baked in the past few weeks .  I now do the Farmer's Market less regularly and focus on my Tuesday bake for barter/donation.  As we all know home ovens don't lend to production so In the past few months I've worked on increasing the output without having to bake for 20 hours straight.  The primary solution was introducing my "tasters" to tinned Rye Breads which by surprise has been very popular.  I'm able to bake 4 pullman pans a few days in advance which get quartered and double my previous output.  Most weeks they get reserved faster than the levain breads.  I've also added some simpler breads like pain rustique, SJSD, slowrise baguettes, and some focaccia flats.  These fit in to the bake day and follow right after the levain breads have finished baking without much effort.  

70% Whole Rye with Whole Wheat and Soaker

For 1 Pullman (2.2 KG)

Rye Sour: 16-20 hours @ 70-73F

---------------------------

21 g   Refreshed Rye Sour

335g  H20

411g  Whole Rye Flour

4 g    Sea Salt

----------------------------

Soaker:  Make at same time as Rye Sour

-------------------

421  H20

421  Coarse Rye Flour

8      Sea Salt

-------------------

Final Paste DDT 80-82F this will require the final water be very warm

All   Rye Sour

All   Soaker

220 H20 (very warm)

361 Whole Wheat, 

8     Instant Yeast

11   Sea Salt

--------------------------------------

Mix Sour and ferment 16-20 hours.  MIx Soaker, cover, and set aside.

Mix All together (I mix for about 15 total minutes by hand)

Bulk Ferment:  30 minutes

Place in lightly greased pan and smooth out with wet spatula.  Sprinkle lightly with Rye Flour.  

Proof 50-60 minutes

Bake 470 with steam for 15 minutes and turn down to 400 and bake an hour longer rotate pans half way through.  Temp @ 208-210F

Cool on racks.  Wrap in linen at least 24 hours

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some 36 hour fermented SJSD with fresh milled whole grain and added malt.  Really Good Stuff

And finally my most recent Pane Maggiore bake which I continue to tinker with.  This is made with a stiff levain and as always freshly milled whole grains.  Not bad but more tinkering to come.  

 

Cheers

 

Josh

Song Of The Baker's picture
Song Of The Baker

Here are some relevant and not so relevant past bakes and things.

Multi-Grain Levain with many, many seeds.

Some healthy buttermilk spelt flour pancakes with fresh blueberry maple syrup.

After eating some amazing seafood dishes this summer in the Okanagan valley, and a trip to our local produce farm market, I came up with this inspired fish dish.  Pan seared halibut with beurre blanc sauce, yellow zucchini, arugula, new potatoes, garnished with oregano blossoms and smoked paprika.  No, there is no bread, but I sure wished I had a crostini to soak up the remaining bit of beurre blanc sauce.

 

WoodenSpoon's picture
WoodenSpoon

 

  • 500g bf (89%)
  • 120g rye levain (11%rye 11%water)
  • 84g rye berries (15%)
  • 84g rye chops (15%)
  • 84g extra corse rye (15%)
  • 28g rye whisky (5%)
  • 28g honey (5%)
  • 377g water (67%)
  • 11g salt (2%)

The evening before I wanted to bake I mixed the levain using 5g chef 100g whole rye and 100g water and set it aside to ferment for roughly sixteen hours. I also mixed the rye chops, berries, and pumpernickel flour with the honey, whisky and enough warm water to cover the seeds, I mixed the soaker with a spoon every once in a while and added more warm water as needed. 

 The following afternoon I lightly mixed all the ingredients but the salt and let it rest for an hour, added the salt and gave it a few 30 second sets of slap and folds interspersed with minute longs rests. Once the dough was developed to my liking I set in in a covered bowl to ferment for three more hours, then I shaped it, popped it into the pan and let it proof for 2 or so more hours. Then I baked it in a oven whos temperature descended from 450 to 380ish over the course of an hour and twenty minutes, once done baking i let the loaf rest overnight and into the following afternoon.

I just cut into it and it is darn tasty. The honey taste is barely discernible amongst the spicy, earthy farmyardy flavors and aromas of the rye, and while I can't be sure that i can taste the whisky I can smell it for sure...I think. The crumb is tight and a little tacky due to all the whole grains and I'm planning on making some killer grilled cheeses with it for dinner.  

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