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Ryan Sandler's picture
Ryan Sandler

One of my favorite breads from Hamelman's Bread is Pain Rustique (comes right before "Country Bread" and "Rustic Bread").  The bread is unshaped like a ciabatta, although it only has 69% hydration, and is scored before baking.  When I get it right (as opposed to, say, forgetting the salt and yeast following the autolyse, as I did the first time I tried the formula), it produces a toothsome crust and a flavorful, moderately open crumb.  As a bonus, the time from first mix to pulling the breads out of the oven is under 3 hours (not counting preferment time).


Anyway, the last week I was talking with my mom about the sourdough starter I brought her on our crazy baking day , and the subject of converting pre-fermented, commercially leavened formulas to sourdough came up, as did the Pain Rustique.  This got me thinking--why not try Pain Rustique as a sourdough?  And the more I thought, the more I had to try it.


Pain Rustique as written by Hamelman has 50% of the flour in a poolish, so I simply replaced this with a liquid levain.  I usually scale Hamelman's "Home" quantities by 2/3 since I can only fit 2 loaves on my stone at a time.   Here's what I did:


Levain*



  • 100g ripe starter at 100% hydration. 

  • 250g King Aurther All-Purpose Flour

  • 250g water


*Note: I needed 600g of ripe levain, didn't get around to mixing it until 10:30 the night before, and needed to start the bread be 7 the next day.  For a longer sitting time, I'd do less starter and more flour and water.


Final Dough



  • 300g flour

  • 120g water

  • 600g levain (all) 

  • 12g salt


Steps:



  1. The night before, mix the levain, cover and let sit overnight for 9 hours (but see note).

  2. Mix flour, water and levain by hand until all the flour is hydrated.  Autolyze for 25 minutes.

  3. Add salt, mix in the stand mixer at speed 2 for 2 minutes.

  4. Do 30 stretch and folds in the bowl with a rubber spatula, rotating the bowl with each fold.

  5. Ferment for 150 minutes, giving the dough a stretch and fold on the bench at 50 and 100 minutes.

  6. Dump the dough onto a lightly floured work surface.  Divide in half to make 2 510g (18oz) pieces, placing any scraps on the rough side of the dough. Then place each piece on a floured couche, smooth side down.

  7. Start pre-heating the oven with a baking stone and any steaming apparatus. Proof the loaves for 40-50 minutes.

  8. Flip the loaves onto a sheet of parchment on the back of a sheet pan.  This can be done by hand, but I've taken to pulling a bit of the couch over the edge of the pan, then flipping the loaf couche and all onto the parchment.  This avoids the problem of finger-shaped indents on top of the loaves, which fill in while baking, but make scoring difficult.

  9. Score longways, load into the oven, and bake for 35 minutes, with steam for the first 15 (I've been using the popular "towel method", placing rolled up towels soaked in hot water in two loaf pans below the baking stone.  After 15 minutes, the pans are removed).

  10. Turn off oven, open door and loaves in for 5 minutes before removing to a cooling rack.


 


The results looked very much like my previous attempts at Pain Rustique (and why not?  It's still an unshaped, 69% hydration dough).


Exterior



 Crumb:


 


 


The flavor, however, was surprisingly different.  A nice, mild sour flavor in the crumb, with a stronger sourness in the crust.  Crust was more sourdough-y than the poolish version, and the mouthfeel of the crumb was subtly different, but I don't know how to describe it.  The flavor evolved a little over time--on the first night the tiny amount of whole wheat from my starter (which is fed 25% whole wheat, 75% white) was detectable, but by the next day (and with the second loaf, pulled from the freezer a couple days later) that had mellowed and the sourness had increased.


A very, very tasty bread, all told.  I'd say better than the poolish version, although as I've noted the two are quite different in flavor.  I'll definitely make this again!

OldWoodenSpoon's picture
OldWoodenSpoon

Twelve days ago I posted this topic about my troubles with an all white flour version of my successful whole wheat and rye starter.  Since then I have been nursing that starter with multiple daily feedings, and keeping it quarantined from my other starter to avoid cross-contamination.  Based on research, and excellent direct advice, the issue was diagnosed by David Snyder and Debra Wink (Thanks to both of you!) as thiol degradation and I proceeded to try to "feed through it".


I started out by stepping up the interval but maintaining the 1:1:1 (s:w:f) ratio I had been using.  That proved too hectic, and I could not count on getting even the brief mid-day work break I needed to stay on schedule.  Even though I work at home, I seemed to end up on the phone for an hour starting just before the starter should be fed.  It felt like I was not going to be able to make it work that way so I increased the food supply by going to a 1:3:3 ratio and reduced the frequency to every 12 hours.  I also reduced the initial inoculation from 30 grams to 10.  I thank Eric Hanner for his valuable input that led me to this action.


I was able to maintain the 12 hour interval successfully, and true to Debra Wink's assurance, on the 10th day things changed.  I did not know what I was looking for, but Debra was right:  when it happened it was obvious.  What I noticed first was a difference in the matured starter when it was time for the next feeding.  The viscosity of the "discard" was lower and it was much less sticky as well.  It dropped off my spatula almost of it's own accord into the discard jar and left the spatuala mostly clean.  Previously I had to scrape and wipe and eventually wash the spatula to get the stuff off.  The other change was the volume in the jar.  While the bad bugs were in charge there was little loft to the mature starter, even after 12 hours of obvious activity.  After the change it started nearly tripling in 12 hours. 


I decided to try some loaves, with high hopes for something better than the results pictured in the original post linked above.  I made another batch of dough by exactly the same formula and approach as outlined in that post.  Because I was not certain where it was going to end up I took pictures at many of the steps, starting with the dough made up, without the salt, and resting for autolyse:


After adding the salt and completing the first set of stretch and folds in the bowl:


I did a total of 3 sets of stretch and folds in the bowl, and here is the dough after the third set:



The original batch of dough that led me here in the first place had broken down almost completely by the time I got this far.  Results this time are obviously worlds better.  I decided to do a stretch and tri-fold on the bench to get a bit more development, (and because I wanted to get my hands on it and in it to reassure myself it was going to hold together!) so I stretched it out:



and then I folded it up:



At this point I knew I had a dough that was holding up well, with a smooth and supple consistency that had me quite excited, shall we say.  I put it into a dough bucket, let it ferment on the bench for about 30 minutes and then put it in the fridge to retard till I could bake it, what turned out to be some 20 hours later.  Here it is just before going in to retardation:



and again after the retardation, some 20 hours or so later:



I let this rest on the bench for an hour to take some of the chill off, then preshaped:



and then (45 minutes later) final shaped and put them to proof:



I failed to take a photo of the proofed loaves before baking them, but once ready I baked them sequentially in my La Cloche ceramic baker, at 525F for 7 minutes under lid, turned down to 475 for 5 minutes under lid, removed the lid and baked for 17-20 minutes more, until done.  Both loaves were baked to internal temperatures of roughly 205F-207F.


So, after all of that, I pulled these out:



and the crumb:



I found that I am so accustomed to my "other" sourdough that includes both a home-ground whole wheat flour component and a dark rye flour component that on first encounter this bread tasted somewhat bland to me.  As we worked our way through that first loaf though I began to detect subtle flavors that brought the bread to life for me.  It is still a much milder flavored bread than "my" sourdough, but it is also a very pleasant flavor that goes well with sandwiches, and as toast or french toast at breakfast.  Also, because it is almost entirely All Purpose flour, I find it almost too soft and fluffy in the crumb.  This also makes the crust somewhat insubstantial, and I will start increasing the bread flour to gradually work up to a crust and bite that is more pleasing to us.


It has been a rewarding journey, and it was nice to "win the battle" with that whatever-it-was nasty that took over my starter.  Interestingly, although I did have to significantly modify how I was feeding my starter in order to get to this point, I did not have to reduce the hydration.  I maintained the original 100% hydration in this starter all the way through, even to now.  Having gotten this far, though, I think I will split the starter into this original and a lower, perhaps about 60%, hydration version so I can experiment with the different flavors they produce.  The mildness of the flavor of this 100% hydration version may make the differences easier for me to pick up on my unsophisticated palatte.


I want to thank everyone that contributed advice on this issue.  The expertise shared, and the spirit of generosity with which it is so readily shared, here on The Fresh Loaf is a true blessing.  You are helping to make me a better baker.


Thanks for stopping by
OldWoodenSpoon

Virtus's picture
Virtus

I have just read some comments posted by 'Frelkins' about Jeffrey Hammelman's 'Horst Bandel's Bread' and a pumpernickel by Claus Meyer. The comments were posted awhile back, but the long, slow bake described sounded wonderful! I was hoping this baker could post a recipe using the long slow bake they described. Thank you.

dthet's picture
dthet

I would first like to acknowledge my deepest respect for all of the notable bakers, with special appreciation to dmsnyder, Txfarmer, and others.  Being a retired concert violinist now living in Amery, WI., my new vent for creativity is baking and my constant knead to change things as in violin (bowings, fingerings, dynamics, etc.); thus, I may tweak here and there, to suit my own tastes.


This is a violinist's concerto of the 70% Rye.  My additional passages include added ingredients and increased bulk and fermentation times.  I will provide my list of added ingredients with rising times, as provided by dmsnyder's rendition and interpretation of Hamelman's 70% Rye with a Rye Soaker and Whole-Wheat Flour.  The whole wheat flour was ground from wheat berries in my Vita-Mix "Whole Grain Container."  I used Organic Rye Flakes instead of Rye Chops due to availability.  New ingredients include: Strong coffee, Wild Flour Honey from Amery area, Date Molasses, Ground Carroway, Dutch Processed Cocoa, Toasted Walnuts, and Dark Raisins.  Baking temperatures (in F's) and times are from the Hamelman and dmsnyder recipies.


Soaker: 


    Liquid to equal 11.2 oz---Strong Coffee 8 oz, Water 3.2 oz


    Organic Rye Flakes---11.2 oz


    salt---.2 oz


Sourdough:


    Medium Rye Flour---11.2 oz


    Water---9 oz


    Mature sourdough culture---.6 oz 


    Wild-Flour Honey-Amery area---3 T


    Date Molasses---3 T


    Ground Carroway---1 T


    Dutch Process Cocoa---1/4 c


Sourdough mixture ripens 14-18 hours at 70 F; mix soaker and add to sourday on 2nd day; the blended mixtures rest covered 90 to 120 minutes.


Final Dough:


    Set aside: toasted and chopped Walnuts---5 oz; Dark Raisins---8 oz.


    Whole Wheat Flour---9.6 oz


    Water---4.8 oz


    Salt---.4 oz


    Yeast---1.5 t


    Soaker---all of the above


    Sourdough---all of the above


On a well-floured countertop, place final dough, add a sprinkling of flour in order to make a large rectangle of dough, add the walnuts and dark raisins. Fold gently until all ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, divide into two equal portions, shape into boules, place into bannetons (if you have them),cover, and let ferment for 120-180 minutes. Preheat oven to 470 F one hour before baking bread.


Place on parchment and with nnormal steam for 15 min. then lower the oven to 430 F for approximately 40 min. Check the loaf temperature (when it reaches 205 F), remove from oven, cool loaves on rack.  When thoroughly cool place them in a sealed brown paper bag for 24 hours.



Enjoy the rich complexities.


Pictures to follow in this violinist can download them.


David T.


 


 


 

MadAboutB8's picture
MadAboutB8

Every now and then, I take a break from making multigrains bread to fruit bread. I've also been wanting to try making bread with walnuts for quite somtimes, influenced by many wonderful entries from TFL members.


Cranberry and walnuts is a food pair that appears together quite often and I wanted to try making bread with cranberries. So, here go the bread from my last weekend's bake, cranberry and walnut sourdough.



I adapted the recipe from Jeffrey Hamelman's prune and hazelnut sourdough recipe. I made this recipe quite a few times with my own fruit and nuts adaptation, fig and hazelnut, fig and almond. Strangely enough, I never made the bread using prune and hazelnuts as the original recipe suggested.



I quite enjoy cranberry in bread. It added the nice sour yet sweet flavour to the bread, as well as the moist and chewy texture. The bread also got a good crunch texture from walnut.


It made great fruit toast with my home-made orange butter.


delicious with orange butter


More pictures and recipe can be found here.


Sue


http://youcandoitathome.blogspot.com


 

txfarmer's picture
txfarmer


 


Yes, this brioche has 100% butter ratio, i.e butter weight == flour weight. According to BBA 80% butter brioche is considered "richman's", so this brioche is probably "Bill Gates'"?


 


First saw this bread from a blog, but it didn't provide a formula except to say it's from "Patisserie of Pierre Herme", I am not about to spend a few hundred bucks on that book, yet can't find a copy of the recipe online, so it has been taunting me ever since. Recently a reader of my Chinese blog was nice enough to send me the recipe, finally I got to make this bread!


 


I know some of you may suspect a bread with so much butter would taste greasy or heavy. I have made many enriched breads, a lot of them are brioches with various butter ratio, I think for a rich yet light brioche, the key is in the kneading. I kneaded it very well, and the final bread had a croissant -like crust with a "lighter than air" crumb. The contrast of a crispy flaky crust and a chiffon cake-like crumb creates a wonderful mouth feel, along with great butter flavor, it's a bread worth every bit of effort and calorie!


 


 


100% Brioche (adapted from "Patisserie of Pierre Herme")


note: I changed the qantity to be more family friendly


note: I used SAF Gold osmotolerant yeast instead of fresh


note: PH is very short on procedures, so I had to improvise a lot. My adaptions are noted in brackets.


 


bread flour, 300g (100%)


sugar, 39g (13%)


SAF Gold osmotolerant yeast, 4.8g (1.6%) (if you use instant dry, you may need a bit more due to higher ratio of sugar)


salt, 8.4g(2.8%)


egg, 210g(70%)


butter, 300g(100%), softened


 


1. Mix flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and half of eggs together with dough hook until clean the bowl, add the rest of eggs, mix until clean the bowl. (The dough was too dry with half of the eggs, then too wet with all of the eggs. I added eggs in one shot, and used paddle attachment the whole time for my KA 6pro. Mixed until it cleans the bowl, it will take a while but you need the gluten to be strong before adding that much butter.)


2. Add butter, mix well. (I added butter a bit at a time, and mixed until the dough wraps around the paddle attachment and cleans the bowl. It can pass windowpane very well. This intensive kneading is essential for a light and tall bread.)




3. Rise at room temp until double (about 1 hour to 1.5 hour for me), punch down, put in fridge for 2 hours, punch down again, put back in fridge for at least 4 hours or overnight.


4. PH doesn't say anything after the bulk rise, so everything below is my adaption. (Divide and shape right out of frdige when the dough is cold and managable. This dough will expand A LOT, so only fill the molds 1/4 to 1/3 full.)



5. (Proof at room temp (~73F) until the dough reach the rim of the molds, 2.5 to 3 hours for me.)


6. Egg wash once or twice, bake my 550g large brioche at 420F for 15min, then 375F for 30min. Other smaller ones (160g dough size) were baked at 420F for 15min, then 375 for 10 to 15min.



 


With good quality butter, and enough kneading/fermentation, this bread is both rich and light, heavenly!



 


Not for everyday consumption, but perfect for an occasional treat.



 


Submitting to Yeastspotting.

Moris's picture
Moris

Hi Everyone,  Thanks for stopping by !


You may be one of the lucky ones to have recently baked some of my fresh hand made croissants from Frozen.


I've created this blog as an extra resource for you to ensure that your croissants are the flakiest, tastiest & lightest croissants that you've ever had !


Let's get started shall we ?  :)


Step 1:  Remove your frozen croissants from the freezer bag and place on a baking sheet.  Chocolate ones should be placed seam side down.


Frozen Croissants


 Step 2:  Let them raise overnight or for approx 9-10 hours.


For best results, they should be in a slightly warmer than room temp place (75F - 80F)


A trick to achieve this warm & humid atmosphere that will allow the yeast to really work is to add a tin pan at the bottom of your oven and pour some boiling water in it when you first start the rising process.  This added steam & heat will really assist in ensuring best results possible.



Here's an action shot.  Special Thanks to Katie for being a wonderful arm model.  Please Contact us for future bookings :)


 


 


 After 9-10 Hours the croissants should be fully proofed and be double to triple in size and slightly jiggly if you wiggle the pan. 


Proofed Croissants


 


 


These ones actually proofed for 10 hours.  If yours don't look like this, you can try some things to set the mood for the yeast to really start working.


Tip 1:  Give them another steam bath & Let them sit for another hour


Tip 2:  Give them a little blast of heat.  Set your oven for only 200F and let it heat up for one minute (it won't actually get to 200F) for a quick shot of heat.  The point here is just to warm the surrounding air up a little bit and not make it too warm where the butter starts to melt out. 


After this heat blast - Sit back for a while and let the yeast do its thing ;)





Step 4:  Preheat your oven to 400F if using convection or 425F if not convection


Step 5:  Prior to baking brush with egg wash.  This will ensure a nice golden colour.


Egg Wash


 


It really comes down to personal preference here.  If you have no eggs, milk or cream is fine.  No milk ?  Use water, or even nothing at all.


 


My personal favorite is to use just the egg yolk with a little bit of water.  This will make a nice dark & crispy coating - egg yolk is always the prettiest in my opinion.


 


 Tip:  At this point while your oven is heating, you can refridgerate the croissants.  What this does is set the butter even more.  This will ensure optimum flakiness ;~)


Step 6:  Bake for 20 minutes or until you have a deep golden brown.  Don't be afraid to go too dark here.. the darker the better and it sets them nicely. 


Baked


 


These ones baked the full 20 minutes.


 


 


 


 


 


Close upLet Them rest on the pan for about 5 minutes.  The extra time lets the steam from the butter do its final setting.


Best served warm !


ENJOY !!!!


 


Cheers,


Moris.

cranbo's picture
cranbo

In researching another thread, came across this interesting article on preferments from Lallemand, in PDF format.


One interesting morsel:



The preferment minimizes the lag phase by providing an optimum environment for the yeast. The result is higher gas production later inthe process, especially in high-sugar doughs.



The lag phase is the "ramp up" phase that occurs before yeast reach their maximum productivity. The article has a nice chart. 


Here's another interesting one:



Yeast activation takes place during the first 30 to 60 minutes in all types of preferments. Longer preferment times are not necessary for yeast activation, and can have a negative effect because yeast start to lose activity once the available sugar has been consumed. The only reason for longer preferments is for flavor contribution or dough development.



I think they're referring to the activation of commercial yeasts here (Lallemand is a commercial yeast producer, after all). Yeast activation is sourdough I think is different altogether. 


 

Jo_Jo_'s picture
Jo_Jo_

Well it certainly looks good! I baked it at 450* for 20 minutes, on my pizza stone. I really like the color of the crust both top and bottom. There weren't many surprises when I made this, except maybe that it was a lot easier to tell if it was ready to be baked. I am used to making sourdough versions of this, so they take a LOT longer to rise.


From BBA Ciabatta

Here's a picture of the bottom, which is a beautiful color. I always like how my bread turns out when baking on a stone with steam in the oven.


Here they are side by side on my cookie sheet, which I use like a peel. Haven't seen a need for a real peel yet, seems rather expensive when I have something that works.


I used Peter Reinhart's baker's formula, and only made 1 pound of dough. I was already in the process of making sourdough loaves, so I figured that I wanted to have enough to try this recipe out. The only difficulty I had was that my mixer likes to make at least 2 pounds of dough, and smaller loads seem to be harder for it to really create a nice gluten structure.


As you can see, it is quite wet and sticky even after it being worked for about 5 minutes.


Here it is close to the end of the process, when I decided to just pull it out and do some stretch and folds to help build it up a little bit.


After second set of stretch and folds....


Ok, I missed a lot of picture opportunities with this one, totally forgot to take pictures of each step of the process.  I actually did three stretch and folds, one at the beginning because I felt it was underworked by the mixer.  I gave it a rest of 90 minutes after the stretch and fold process, then split it into two pieces.  I then did the final shaping and transferred it to a french bread pan I have, which I often use as a couch.


It's already starting to grow...


Almost ready to be put into the oven...


These rose a lot during the final proof, and for it being only a pound of dough it made two nice loaves. Ok, I have held off on showing the crumb shot till now, because I was so disappointed with it.  This dough was really wet, and I know that I didn't overwork it.  Possibly it was slightly underworked, but here are two pictures.

From BBA Ciabatta

I was really expecting a LOT more holes, especially when my sourdough breads are so much easier to work with and give me crumb like the next pictures regularly. Here are two pictures of the loaves I made today, and I wasn't even trying for a ciabatta like loaf.


And my sourdough was a lot easier to handle, and it tasted a lot better too. I find that most of the BBA breads seem to have too much salt in them for my taste, but this bread just seemed to be like a regular french bread to me and didn't have nearly the flavor that I expected.  My sourdough is usually made with a starter made from AP Flour, water, salt, bread flour for the main dough.  I used AP flour with the biga that I made for the ciabatta, then bread flour for the main dough.  The biggest difference in the recipes is that BBA adds oil, which I never use.  I just find this really interesting, when comparing the hydration percentages on the two dough, my sourdough came in at 70.4%, and Reinhart's was at 74.74%. 

em120392's picture
em120392

Hey guys! it's been a while! i've been posting a lot on my blog, but not much on here!


anyway, my brother and i made english muffins, which happened to be one of the most fun breads i've made so far. i hope you guys enjoy my post on them!


you can read all the posts on our blog, http://bakingacrosscountry.wordpress.com/ i've been interning at a bread bakery as well as a bagel shop! this project has definitely been the highlight of my high school career.


__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________




My brother, Evan, came home from his trip to Antarctica and New Zealand a few days ago. We had a lot of family events that filled the entirety of the weekend, and we had no time to really even see each other. Even though I had school today, I took the morning off to bake bread and hang out with my brother before he flew back to California. English muffins were the next on deck-and I couldn't have asked for a more interesting bread to make with Evan.


English muffins, despite their name, are not like the typical muffins we are familiar with. Yeast-risen, English muffins are cooked atop a griddle, giving it its classic, flattened shape. Once browned on the outside, the muffins are baked fully in the oven. English muffins are usually eaten for breakfast, or for sandwiches. However, to retain the texture of the crumb, English muffins are split open with a fork, revealing the trademarked "nooks and crannies" inside.


English muffins are very similar to crumpets, which are yeasted breads baked in a mould on a griddle. However, crumpets have their defining holes on the top of the bread, while English muffins have holes on the inside.


Cooking yeasted breads on a griddle was nothing new- it has been documented that in 10th century Wales breads were made like this. In the 19th century England, yeasted griddle-breads were sold door to door by a muffin man. He would come around every day, and deliver fresh breads.


English muffins were popularized by Samuel Bath Thomas, who marketed them in New York City in the late 1800s. English muffins gained their identifying trademark "nooks and crannies" in the mid-1920s.


The English muffins that I've unfortunately been exposed to are rubbery, store bought Thomas' ones. The only positives about these are that when their split with a fork, toasted, and buttered, they do not taste half bad. However, I'm sure English muffins have the potential to be a delicious breakfast and sandwich bread.


English muffins are enriched bread, with butter and milk. They are a direct bread, meaning they do not have a preferment or retardation. However, I believe that these would be great using a sourdough starter, adding a more complex flavor. Evan and I decided that we would make two batches because it only makes six at a time. If we doubled it, we would have enough to feed our bread-hungry brother, Will, and freeze some for future breakfasts.


Evan and I began mixing the dry ingredients- flour, sugar, salt and yeast- together. Since we didn't have any buttermilk, we clabbered milk with vinegar to make a buttermilk substitute. We added the "buttermilk" and butter to the dough, and kneaded it until it made a soft, tender dough.


We let the dough proof until doubled, for about two hours. The dough was so soft and supple; It was surprised that it would be used for English muffins. We scaled it into 3 ounce portions, and shaped them into balls. We sprinkled them with a really coarse cornmeal, and a finer one. Then, we let them proof for about 2 hours until they puffed up significantly.


We originally were going to use a cast-iron skillet, but the one we own is only about 8 inches in diameter. We settled on our electric-griddle which we use for pancakes. They cooked on the first side for about 5 minutes, or until they were very dark brown, but not burnt. Then, we flipped them, and baked them on the last side.


Once cooked on both sides on the griddle, we baked them in the oven for about 5 minutes, or until they were fully cooked.


They were on the big side, and a little thicker than the ones were used to. Evan and I split one open (with a fork!) and tried it. They tasted real, and delicious. Unlike store bought ones, they didn't taste chemically or rubbery, but were soft with a crunchy corn crust.


Next time (and I promise there will be a next time), I think I'll scale them into about 2.5 ounce balls rather than 3 ounce ones. It might have been Evan's presence in the kitchen, but English muffins were probably the most fun and most interesting bread I've baked so far.


 


 

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