The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Blogs

  • Pin It
Juergen Krauss's picture
Juergen Krauss

Last Sunday the weather turned British over here, time to do something REALLY BRITISH:

A Pimms party with our neighbours!!!

I supplied some of the food: Tried and tested Sesame Crackers and Swedish Thin Bread (from Bo Friberg's book The Professional Pastry Chef), to go with some hoummous and guacamole.

I will give only a brief description of the process, as making these tasty crackers is really easy, and the formulas and stories around it are published in Friberg's book, which I highly recommend:

Sesame Crackers

Bread Flour 77%

Wholegrain Wheat Flour 23%

Instant Yeast 1%

Malt or Honey 1%

Salt 2%

Sesame Oil 5.4%

Water 57%

Sesame Seeds (mixed black & white) 31%

Mix all ingredients except Sesame Seeds and work the dough.

Incorporate the seeds (if the dough is too stiff let it rest a bit)

Proof for 1 hour.

Divide. (60g balls work very well for me using a pasta machine)

Roll out very thin (I use a pasta machine up to step 4 of 7)

Transfer to a baking sheet, cut crackers to size as required.

Bake immediately at 190C for about 12 minutes.

They should be golden brown but not burnt. Sit next to the oven and watch!!!

 

2. Swedish Thin Bread

Vegetable Shortening 19.3%

Butter (room temp) 9.2%

Granulated Sugar 9.2%

Rolled Oats 28.6%

Bread Flour 100%

Salt 0.8%

Baking Soda 0.7%

Buttermilk 60.5%

(Yield 228.4%)

Cream shortening and butter until fluffy

Incorporate dry ingredients alternating with buttermilk

Do not overmix. Wetter dough makes crisper bread

Roll out very thin and transfer to baking sheet, 300g for a 30X35cm sheet work well for me.

Score to get cracker shapes (don't tear the dough, you can break them easily after baking)

Bake at 160C until completely dry (ca. 30 min)

Enjoy,

Juergen

 

 

David Esq.'s picture
David Esq.

I was on vacation for a week and used my starter for nothing but pancakes (which, because they were watered down, came out more like crepes) and when we came home on Saturday, I knew that my usual tartine bake was not going to fit in with my weekend schedule. 

Fortunately, I had yet to bake from Flour, Water, Salt & Yeast and I decided to give it a go with a <gasp!> 100% All Purpose Flour loaf, using <gasp!> commercial yeast!

Of course, I could not start with a straight dough after eating so many country loaves and whole wheat variants of same, so I opted for the 80% Poolish variety of white bread, figuring that this would keep me from finding the bake overly bland.

This also provided me an opportunity to use my nifty Cambro buckets.

The top bucket has some bizarre i-Phone flash reflection going on. In person, the bucket looks just like the bottom one, only smaller.  The top bucket contains my poolish recently mixed. The bottom photo contains the remaining flour, salt and in the baby food container, the yeast for the final dough.  I was not sure if it was safe to mix the yeast with the flour and salt and let it sit overnight but figured it can be left in a glass jar unrefrigerated and be just fine.

The next morning, my poolish was over-ripe.  The book says it should be rounded on top, and tripled in volume.  Instead, it looked like it had collapsed some because the surface was a bit concave rather than domed.

I dispersed the yeast the following morning and added the poolish into the larger bucket.

I did not remember to photograph the bucket before it was time to shape the dough.  Nor did I photograph the dough in the baskets.  The dough was a lot more pillow-like than my tartine doughs. It was very soft. It was also a bit more difficult to handle because it seemed like it was ready to deflate at any moment. Either that or it was just looser dough.

The finished loaves (a bit blurry) looked pretty good, though I overcooked the bottoms (need to raise the oven rack back up a notch).  They did not burst and I wonder if that is the result of my poolish/biga being overly developed prior to dough mixing.

The truth is, I could hardly tell if I was proofing seam side up or seam side down. But these photos make me think I did it seam-side down since I did no scoring.

And, finally, another crumb shot:

Let me say that the bread was delicious. Even though the bottom was burned a bit, it just added to the flavor. It is a very soft bread, a bit more difficult to cut, but oh so delicious with butter.  It made a delicious grilled cheese sandwich too.

And the following day (today) it made a fantastic peanut butter sandwich.  My wife says I should only make white breads like this, but I did remind her that we've had some delicious wheat and rye breads too and she agreed.  Plus, of course, I have a very expensive grain mill and can't possibly shelve it.

Next time I make this bread, I will mix the poolish a little later in the evening so that it is ready to go closer to 12 hours later.

 

CAphyl's picture
CAphyl

I have been baking some of my favorite recipes lately, mostly for family and friends.  While I was in the Midwest, I made a classic sourdough and Tartine sourdough with olives, lemon zest and herbes de provence (2). (my updated recipe links are below)

I was a bit concerned when I got home that my California sourdough starter was tired and flat, so I worked for a few days to get it back to normal.  It seems to be OK now, as I baked some bread for us today and for friends on Saturday.

While in the Midwest, I baked the Tartine olive bread for my friend, Theresa, and she sent me these crumb shots.  I also baked the same loaf for my friends, Tim and Barb.  I made the dough and then split it, shaping the first loaf for baking one day and then saved the second half for a longer bulk ferment, shaping it later and then baking it the next day.  I have to say that the second day bake was better than the first. This second bake produced one of the best loaves I have ever baked as it had great height, crumb and taste (as reported to me by my friend). The starter I have in the Midwest is the "baby" of my California starter.

I made this classic sourdough (below) in the Midwest for my friend, Carole.

When I got back to California, I used the same recipe to make a Classic sourdough for our friends, Sandy and Chris (above).  They loved it, and sent me the crumb shot below.

I baked the loaf below for us today.  I am on a classic sourdough kick!

The crumb was quite even. My husband likes it that way, but I am always looking for a more open crumb.  It tasted really good, quite sour as I left it to bulk ferment for 72 hours and then shaped it and let it proof overnight in the banneton. I'll have to get back to some multi-grain bakes next.

We grilled outside last night, and I wanted to suggest a wonderful and light dessert, grilled peaches with Greek yogurt and rosemary-infused honey.  The recipe is below.  There are lots of peaches around now, and we can use the rosemary from the garden.  We aren't big dessert people, but we love this simple recipe.  You can scale it down for fewer people.  We used one large peach for both of us.

GRILLED PEACHES WITH YOGURT & ROSEMARY HONEY

 From Carla Hall, cohost of "The Chew"

Ingredients

4 firm but ripe peaches

sprig of rosemary

grapeseed or olive oil

1/2 cup honey

2 cups greek style yogurt

 

Directions

1. Prepare the grill and heat to medium

2. Cut the peaches in half and pit them.  If desired, cut the peaches into quarters. (Note: they do not have to be peeled). Brush the cut sides of the peaches with oil.  Carefully place the peach pieces onto the hot grate and grill, turning once, until grill marks show and the peaches are tender but not falling apart, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

3. While the peaches are grilling place the rosemary sprig and the honey into a microwavable bowl and heat for about 1 minute.  The honey should be runny and warm.

4. To serve:  Put 1/4 cup yogurt into each of the 4 cups or bowls and then top with several peach slices, warm or at room temperature and another 1/4 cup yogurt and the remaining peaches.  Drizzle with the rosemary infused honey.

We also made smoky tilapia tacos with simmered pinto beans with chipotle sour cream.  Quite good!

 

The bread recipes I used are below:

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/39435/new-twist-classic-sourdough

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/39505/tartine-sourdough-olives-lemon-zest-and-herbes-de-provence

hungryscholar's picture
hungryscholar

I'm just popping in here to make a note so I'll hopefully remember this so I can make it again. (And keep tweaking the recipe, of course). Anyhow, I was reading local breads this morning and contemplating making some olive rolls from it, couldn't find oil cured olives in the grocery store, but the final dusting with cornmeal stuck with me to this afternoon. Once again a case where I intended to make sub rolls, but my hands decided I needed more practice with baguettes (which I clearly do). But what I'm really trying to leave myself a note about it to sub organic molasses for honey again sometime- love that malty sweetness it seemed to lend to the finished bread. It's great in a dark beer too, so I shouldn't be surprised.

 

500 g AP

150 g milk

175 g water

28 g

11 g Salt

1  1/2 tsp yeast (or as appropriate for the time available /sourdough, etc.)

 

As it happened this was bulk ferment for about an hour, shaped and then it rose for around 20 minutes when I stuck the loaves in the refrigerator for another 90 minutes or so as the weather got nice and we went to the lake.

Bake at 450 for around 30 minutes.

But really, it was all about the molasses- not too sweet, but combined with the milk made for a soft roll that still had some nice crunch from the cornmeal.

 

emkay's picture
emkay

The Chinese like soft and fluffy white breads. The whiter, the better. It might explain why something called Hong Kong flour exists. The HK flour is bleached and low in protein so that the resulting bread is super white and super soft. I don't really mind if my Chinese breads turn out white or not. So I just use what I have on hand which is Central Milling's Artisan Bakers Craft, a 10.5% protein, organic, malted, unbleached flour. The results are definitely more off-white than white. Soft and fluffy is easy. Enrichments such as butter, egg and milk will do the trick. Using a tangzhong aka water roux helps with the softness and keeping quality.

mexican_bun_crumb_1

This bun is a purely Asian creation. It doesn't seem to have anything to do with Mexico although buns with a cookie-like topping are reminiscent of conchas. I don't know who invented it first and I have no idea why the Chinese like topping breads with a cookie batter, but it's pure genius. The cookie melds with the bread dough and creates a thin, crispy, cookie-ish layer. Depending on the ingredient ratios in the cookie batter, the layer can be fused with the bread and cannot be peeled off. Or if the cookie batter is stiffer, the baked layer can be peeled or flaked off the bread and eaten separately which is the way I did it as a child when eating boh loh bao aka pineapple buns (which have no pineapple in it at all).

I used instant espresso powder in my cookie topping, but instant coffee powder can be used instead. You can leave out the coffee and have a plain vanilla topping. I used a tangzhong milk loaf for my buns. They turned out super soft, fluffy and shreddable. The topping was crisp on day one, but softened considerably by day two.

mexican_bun_proof

mexican_bun_swirl

mexican_bun_baked

I left a few without topping. The topping weighs down the bun a bit so the topped ones spread out instead of up.

mexican_bun_crust

The bottom of the bun.

mexican_bun_bottom

The crumb.

mexican_bun_crumb_2

mexican_bun_crumb_3

Bakers' percentages for the bun dough

100% flour*, 75% whole milk*, 10% sugar, 12.5% egg, 1% instant dry yeast, 1.5% salt, 10% butter

[* 5% of the total flour was used in the tangzhong. TZ ratio was 1:5 flour to milk.]

Bun dough recipe

To make the tangzhong: In a saucepan whisk 20 g AP flour into 100 g whole milk until it's pretty smooth. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture reaches 149F/65C. It should be pudding like. Allow the tangzhong to cool before using it in the dough.

380 g AP flour

200 g whole milk, 85-90F

40 sugar

50 g egg

4 g instant dry yeast (SAF red)

6 g salt

40 g unsalted butter, softened

all of the tangzhong

  1. In a KA stand mixer, mix everything except the butter on speed 1 for 3 minutes.

  2. Add the butter and mix on speed 2 until all the butter is incorporated, about 2 -3 minutes.

  3. Bulk ferment at room temp until doubled, about 1 hour.

  4. Scale each bun at 55 grams. (I got 15 buns.)

  5. Proof on sheet pans at room temp for 30-45 minutes.

  6. Pipe cookie topping onto each proofed bun.

  7. Bake buns at 375F for about 15 mins or until golden brown. Best served warm.   

Coffee cookie topping

50g unsalted butter, softened

50g granulated sugar

50g egg, lightly beaten

70g AP flour

1 tsp instant espresso powder

1 tsp water

1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

  1. Dissolve the espresso powder in the warm water and mix in vanilla extract. Set aside.

  2. Beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.

  3. Beat in the egg until well combined.

  4. Beat in the espresso mixture.

  5. Add the flour and mix until just incorporated.

  6. Transfer topping to a pastry bag fitted with a round pastry tip.

  7. Store in the refrigerator until needed. (Can be made 2 day in advance.)

  8. Allow the topping to soften a bit at room temp for about 5 or 10 minutes before piping it onto the proofed buns.

 :) Mary

isand66's picture
isand66

  One of my favorite breads is my Sourdough Date Bread which was inspired by my good friend Khalid.  Since I recently picked up some fresh dates from the supermarket the other day I figured it was time to try it again but with some slight modifications.

I didn't buy enough dates so I had to reduce the amount used slightly which didn't seem to make that much of a difference.  I also used a higher percentage of French Style flour which I recently purchased from KAF.  I really love working with this flour so I wanted to use a higher amount than before while also removing the Spelt and Durum flour but keeping the freshly ground whole wheat.

The final change was to add some chocolate raspberry balsamic vinegar to bump up the flavors a little.  I thought this would add a little more sweetness to the bread and compliment the dates well.

The final bread came out excellent with a nice dark crust from the sugars in the dates and wonderful sweet and tangy flavor which goes well with just about anything.  The crumb was nice and moist as well.

Please note:  the dates are simmered in part of the water used for the main dough and instead of chopping them up  I just mushed them a little in the bowl which worked out fine.

CLOSEUP1

Sour Dough Date Bread Act 2.2 (%)

Sour Dough Date Bread Act 2.2 (weights)

Download BreadStorm .bun file here.

CLOSUP2

Levain Directions

Step 1

Mix all the levain ingredients together  for about 1 minute and cover with plastic wrap.  Let it sit at room temperature for around 7-8 hours or until the starter has doubled.  I used my proofer set at 83 degrees and it took about 4 hours.

Step 2

Mix the flour and water with all of the levain from step 1 and let it sit at room temperature again until it is doubled.  At this point you can either use it right away or put it in the refrigerator and use it the next 1 to 2 days.

Date Preparation

Make sure there are no pits in the dates and do not trust the package like I did which claimed they were pitted dates.  Simmer the dates in 226 grams of water until they are soft.  After you remove them from the heat, add 100 grams of cold water and let the dates sit until they come back down to room temperature.

 Main Dough Procedure

Mix the flours with the remainder of the water for about 1 minute.  Let the rough dough sit for about 20 minutes to an hour.  Next add the dates, butter and salt and mix on low for 2 minutes and speed #2 for another 2 minutes or by hand for about 6 minutes.   You should end up with a cohesive dough that is slightly tacky but very manageable.  Remove the dough from your bowl and place it in a lightly oiled bowl or work surface and do several stretch and folds.  Let it rest covered for 10-15 minutes and then do another stretch and fold.  Let it rest another 10-15 minutes and do one additional stretch and fold.  After a total of 2 hours place your covered bowl in the refrigerator and let it rest for 12 to 24 hours.  (Since I used my proofer I only let the dough sit out for 1.5 hours before refrigerating).

When you are ready to bake remove the bowl from the refrigerator and let it set out at room temperature still covered for 1.5 to 2 hours.  Remove the dough and shape as desired.  I made 1 large Miche for this bake.

The dough will take 1.5 to 2 hours depending on your room temperature and will only rise about 1/3 it's size at most.  Let the dough dictate when it is read to bake not the clock.

Around 45 minutes before ready to bake, pre-heat your oven to 550 degrees F. and prepare it for steam.  I have a heavy-duty baking pan on the bottom rack of my oven with 1 baking stone on above the pan and one on the top shelf.  I pour 1 cup of boiling water in the pan right after I place the dough in the oven.

Right before you are ready to put them in the oven, score as desired and then add 1 cup of boiling water to your steam pan or follow your own steam procedure.

After 1 minute lower the temperature to 450 degrees.  Bake for 35-50 minutes until the crust is nice and brown and the internal temperature of the bread is 205 degrees.  (Note: since I made one large bread I needed to lower the oven further to 425 F. for about half of the baking time to prevent the crust from burning).

Take the bread out of the oven when done and let it cool on a bakers rack before for at least 2 hours before eating.

CRUMB

CRUMBCLOSEUP

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Lucy noticed that we were out of Jewish Deli Rye sandwich bread and pumpernickel too so she was flummoxed as to which one she would craft up a recipe for this week.  Of course she chose pumpernickel since I is always her favorite kind of bread but, since I had recently smoked a corned beef, freezing half, I told her the pumpernickel would have to wait.

 

She knows out favorite JDR is tzitzel and we have messed with the formula  several times trying to get it right – without total success but we love the final SD bread anyway. It eventually became a 40% whole rye bread that was a little less hydrated than out usual bread for that amount of whole grains.

 

Lucy then decided to continue our sprouted grain baking by using 30% sprouted whole rye and wheat in the mix and increase the amount of whole grains to 60% by using 30% whole un-sprouted rye and wheat as well.  In the past, 30% sprouted grain in the mix became somewhat of a fermenting nemesis making a long, shaped proof in the fridge of 20 hours problematic.  We thought we would give it another go to verify the previous outcomes.

 

We sprouted the equal parts of rye and wheat on Monday and dried them outside in the AZ sun at 105 F on Wednesday before the monsoon rains came around dumping 2 of rain is a very short period of time.   We milled the sprouted and whole grains together and sifted out the 15% hard bits totaling 42 g which we fed to the 9 week retarded rye starter to make the levain over 3 builds.

 

The first build was 2 hours the 2nd stage was 3 hours and 3rd stage was 4 hours.  Once the levain rose 50% in volume we retarded it for 12 hours.  An hour after the levain came out of the fridge the next day, we started the 1 hour autolyse with the remaining dough flour, red malt, sprouting water and water with the salt sprinkled on top – so no chance for forgetting it.

 

I know what you are thinking.  Tzitzel not made with any sprouted flour or even any whole meal flour either.  It is made with medium rye flour, bread flour and commercial yeast.  Lucy’s Sorta Tizitzel Like Sprouted Sourdough is getting pretty far from the mark but since she can’t read or understand English – it isn’t all her fault.

 

I think she just called it that to please her master and feed his Tzitizel Fever Fetish.  Still, it sounded pretty good if the sprouted flour didn’t create its usual run away fermenting mass that would eat the fridge and probably the most susceptible and most tasty part of the kitchen.

 

Tough to beat  good, bacon, brie,  blue cheese mushroon burger - once a month!

Once the levain hit the mix, we did our usual 3 sets of slap and folds of 7, 2 and 1 minute – all on 20 minute intervals.   Since the hydration was low for this amount of whole grains. We did 2 slaps to each fold and I can say thy dough completely quit sticking to the counter after the first 7 minutes.  With 30% whole rye in the mix you have to change your rule of thumb about quitting the first set of slap and folds when the dough stops sticking to the counter.  It was sticking much but there was a bit left behind – so no worries.  By the time we finished up the slap and folds the dough came off the counter clean.

 

Can't remember the last time we had grilled lamb chops.

We incorporated the aromatic seeds into the dough on the first set of stretch and folds and they were thoroughly incorporated after the 3rd set.  The S&F’s were done on 15 minute intervals unlike the slap and folds.  We normally would put more aromatic seeds in this bread but we wanted to get a better feel for the difference in taste using 30% sprouted whole grains and didn’t want as much competition coming from the seeds.

 

Once the S&F’s were done, we shaped the dough into a boule rather than the typical Tzitzel batard.  It was immediately bagged in a trash can liner and placed in the fridge for a 20 retard but decided we would check it at 16 hours anyway.

 

We took th proofed dough out of the fridge at the 20 hour mark and let it warm up on the counter for an hour before firing up the Mini oven.  We got 2 of Sylvia’s steaming cups ready in the microwave, upended the dough onto parchment on the top vented cover of the MO’s broiler pan, slashed the boule T-Rex style and slid the whole assembly into he mini oven at 500 F for 15 minutes of steam.

 

After 4 minutes we turned the oven sown to 475 F.  It is nice to be baking Mini Oven Style again.  After the steam came out, we turned the oven down to 425 F convection this time and continued to bake another 12 minutes until the bread reached 210 F on the inside and was removed to the cooling rack.

 

We love a rich beef stew even in the hot Az summer.

This bread smelled great when it was baking and filling the kitchen with that aromatic seed smell known to make master bakers fall their knees crying and also so their apprentices can get to them to do a nose rip so no one knows what their master is crying about for sure.  Lucy is famous for her nose rips and my wife and I have the scars to prove it – think Chinatown.

 

This bread browned up very well, sprang a bit and bloomed enough to reveal the nasty dinosaur footprint.   It came out of the oven very crisp with small blisters.  We will have to see how the crumb came out after lunch.  We had to dig out some smoked pork from the fridge for today's lunch after we tasted this bread.  This might be the best high percent whole grin Jewish deli rye style bread we have ever made.  The crumb was open, soft and moist.  The subtle aromatic seeds came through just enough.  The sprouted grain gave the bread a more complex and deeper flavor.  This is one fine sandwich bread.  Can't wait to but some smoked corned beef on it.

Formula

 

RyeSD Starter Build

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

9 Week Retarded Rye Starter

6

0

0

6

1.31%

15% Ext. Sprouted Rye & Wheat

6

13

26

45

9.80%

Water

6

13

26

45

9.80%

Total

18

26

52

96

20.92%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starter Totals

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

48

10.46%

 

 

 

Water

48

10.46%

 

 

 

Starter Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour

10.67%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

85% Ext. Sprouted  Rye & Wheat

249

54.25%

 

 

 

KA Bread Flour

210

45.75%

 

 

 

Total Dough Flour

459

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

10

1.95%

 

 

 

Sprout Water 180 & Water

340

74.07%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

74.07%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour w/ Starter

512

 

 

 

 

Sprout Water 180 & Water w/ Starter

388

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total. Hydration with Starter

75.78%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

927

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain - Sprouted Grain

58.98%

27.93%

 

 

 

Spice Mix

12

2.61%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.09%

 

 

 

Hydration with Starter & Adds

75.05%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spice mix is 6 g caraway and 2 g each anise, corriander & fennel

 

 

And Lucy say's not forget the salad.

Bob S.'s picture
Bob S.

Another loaf made using the "Sponge and Dough" method, only this time the sponge contained whole wheat flour and vital wheat gluten.

Formula:
Sponge:
70% Stone Ground Red Whole Wheat Flour
5% Malted Milk Powder
2% Vital Wheat Gluten
0.5% Salt
0.6% Instant Yeast
0.18% Soy Lecithin Granules
73% Water (variable)

Dough
30% Bread Flour
4% Brown Sugar
3% Shortening
1.5% Salt

The method used is the same as in White Bread. The total amount of flour used in this recipe was 18 ounces (510 grams). The finished loaf weighed in at 2 pounds (907 grams). A Cuisinart DLC-2007 seven cup food processor was used in the production of this loaf.
The photo below shows the dough ingredients in the food processor work bowl before being blended with the metal chopping blade. After several pulses to blend the ingredients, they are dumped on top of the sponge and mixed by hand with a brotpisker (dough whisk).

The metal chopping blade was removed and replaced with the plastic dough blade. The roughly mixed dough is then dumped in the food processor work bowl as shown below:

As can be seen from the photo, the dough ingredients have not been completely incorporated into the sponge (yet). Once the food processor is turned on, all of the ingredients are incorporated within a few seconds. Total remix time: 45 seconds. After mixing, the dough is turned out and rounded as shown below:

After a short rest (known as "floor time") the dough is panned, proofed, and baked.

ExperimentalBaker's picture
ExperimentalBaker

Baked my first San Joaquin Sourdough based on http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/24078/san-joaquin-sourdough-update (Thanks to David!)

I reduced the hydration to 70% instead of 75% since I am not comfortable with high hydration dough yet.

My shaping has room for improvement.

Crumb shot.

 

Flavour-wise, it is fantastic!

Pages

Subscribe to RSS - blogs