I started a dough last night that was somewhere between Ken Forkish's Poolish Pizza Dough and Peter Reinhart's Neo-Neopolitian Dough.
Not bad. Using AP flour, it was nice and extensible, but I'm not getting as much crunch on the crust as I was when I used a stronger flour. I'm not sure if there is much I can do about that, but I'll keep tinkering.
Neither place was much more than a mixer, bench, a wood oven, and a cash register. You don't come to these places for the decor, just the bagels!
But the bagels...
It is hard to do justice to the bagels! Sweet and crisp on the outside and slightly charred sometimes. Wow...
In Vancouver we have Siegal's Bagels and Rosemary Rocksalt -- run by the same family -- that are doing a good job of recreating Montréal bagels. They've certainly got the rig set up right:
But ... I don't know what it is, but I've never found myself just standing on the sidewalk lost in thought while munching on their bagels the way I did the Fairmount bagels. They were that good. Truly something to experience, if you ever get the chance!
I baked a couple of times last week. Both were sourdoughs with a rye-fed stiff levain and approximately a 70% hydration, 50% whole wheat final dough.
This is the first batch, in which I used up my Red Fife whole wheat flour.
The second batch I used a 2012 crop BC soft whole wheat that was grown by a farmer BreadSong knows and which she was kind enough to share some of with me. I also added 10% spelt flour, just out of curiosity.
It didn't look quite a nice on the outside, but the second batch had fantastic crumb and really wonderful flavour. It had this beautiful, warm, almost caramel coloured crumb, which really doesn't come through in the photos.
The first batch was very good too. I love baking in the cool fall weather we've been having because it makes it very easy to do a long, slow fermentation that really seems to bring out the best my sourdough.
That's it for baking for the next few weeks. We are heading back East for a bit to see friends and sightsee in Montreal, Vermont, and Boston. The fall colours should be fantastic and I hope to get a chance to check out a few of the bakeries, mills, and bagel shops back there I've heard so much about.
I hope everyone else is getting a chance to fire up their ovens again, and my best to fellow Canadians celebrating Thanksgiving next weekend.
My biggest takeaway, baking-wise, from the Kneading Conference West this year is that I've been baking with too strong flour. I almost always use bread flour, and generally try to bake with the highest protein flour I can find. It works, in the sense that I usually have strong loaves that can hold their shape well, but they are tougher and less tasty than they need to be. So I'm trying to ease up and get used to mixing in more AP flour. I did this with a batch of pizza dough last week and it turned out really nice, much more extensible than what I typically make.
A couple of recent bakes here... The first a 50% whole wheat sourdough.
My loaves were a bit small for the brotforms I used so they didn't come out too impressive looking, but they tasted really nice, nutty and tart. I used Nunweiller's Red Fife Flour, which contributed significantly to the flavour.
I also made Hamelman's Golden Raisin Loaf.
This one is about 20% whole wheat and includes both a levain and a bit of commercial yeast.
Quite a tasty loaf, though as is to be expected it staled noticeably quicker than the pure sourdough loaves did.
My first real test of it was making a batch of Ankarsrum bread, one of the recipes that comes with the mixer.
The dough contains roughly equal amounts of spelt, rye, and wheat flours and a healthy dose of rolled oats and molasses.
I was quite a bit out of my wheat-centric comfort zone on this one but it turned out really well. Perhaps not beautiful, but quite delicious.
And the mixer passed with flying colors, handling considerably more dough than my entry-level Kitchenaid ever could. I think, if anything, that is my biggest issue with the mixer so far: this mixer really isn't really meant for small (3-4 cup of flour) batches, so I'll have to scale some of my recipes up. I'll also have to convince a few more of my neighbors that a little gluten in their diet won't kill them, otherwise my freezer is going to be full capacity all winter long.
(My write up of last year's conference, which gives quite a bit of background about it, is here.)
Lots of great food, like these wood oven baked bagels made by Mark Doxtader of Portland's Tastebud Farms, and really nice people. Lots of TFL members and visitors among those friendly people too, many of whom sung the praises of what an awesome, helpful group we have here. So, once again, I tip my hat to all of you who take the time to share your considerably expertise with the rest of us.
The wheat in their test fields was a little past its prime, but still beautiful to behold.
On a personal level, I took away quite a few things that I'll explore in my baking the next couple of months. But a couple of things I wanted to share with the TFL community.
This was one of the slides from Dr. Jones' presentation, something like a flavor wheel for wheat. He made the point that no matter what kind of bread you are baking today, the wheat you are using was bred for roller-milled, strong white flour that makes a voluminous loaf (the branch highlighted in blue). His team and students are trying to identify and establish other standards for other grain uses, so that one day artisan bakers might be able to bake with wheat that had been (non-GMO) bred to emphasize different characteristics of the grain, say its spiceness or sweetness, maltsters with grain bred for what they want to do, and so on. Really thought-provoking, and really exciting to see the way the team here is going about this work.
For an example of local grain production and the role it can play in a community, you couldn't get a much better example that Camas Country Mill in Eugene, Oregon.
Tom Hunton (above) and his wife Sue run the farm. They've been growing and milling wheat in the Willamette Valley since 2009, selling it to local bakeries, co-ops, and schools, as well as producing grain blends and soup mixes for the Oregon Food Bank and others in need. Their farm has also become a common field trip destination for local schools.
The Huntons are really nice people doing the real work to make a sustainable, local, community-based food system actually come together.
I'm going to donate and hope to have a chance to visit their farm and education center on my next trip back to Oregon. I'd encourage other TFL members, particularly those in the Pacific Northwest, to do so as well. Maybe we could donate a brick or two from "The Fresh Loaf Community"?
After two months of almost constant sun, rain showers and grey skies have returned to southern BC. It is still lush and beautiful, and most every day we are still getting some lovely breaks in the clouds, but it is quite apparent that we'll be seeing less and less of Mr. Sun for a good long while.
And the kids go back to school tomorrow. The long evenings outside riding bikes or playing with friends are soon to be replaced with more studying, reading, cooking, and baking. Sad to see summer go, but those are all good things too, in my book. :)
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I biked around town today and found a shop that carries a bunch of fancy flours including Anita's Organic Mills products, which I've heard good things about from other BC bakers, so I picked as much as I could lug back. And I fed my starter today for the first time in weeks. Let the baking commence in 5... 4... 3...
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A funny story from a week or so ago. We found ourselves in one of those interchangeable suburbs found anywhere in the US doing some back to school shopping (yes, we're becoming those kinds of Canadians now). We got hungry and looked around while standing in a parking lot near a Best Buy and a Kohl's and all the other big box stores. The nearest restaurant was a well-known chain restaurant with many of the trappings of an artisan bakery and which has a fairly safe sounding soup, salad, and sandwich kind of menu which I'd actually never eaten at. Truthfully, I was actually a bit curious to see how it was and whether what they sold might at least provide a hint of artisan bakery food (par-baked, of course) the way, say, Starbucks actually serves a decent enough cup of coffee that in many places it was a pretty big step up from what you could find there before they came to town. Besides, greasy fast food is one thing, but how bad can a sandwich be, right?
The sandwiches we got? They were bad. I mean really, really bad, like "I've gotten better sandwiches in hospital cafeterias and in those little triangular plastic boxes sold at grocery stores and gas stations" bad. I was ... actually awed by how bad they were, considering the price and the description on the menu. I've gone to computer conferences where they cater box lunches containing sandwiches for 5,000+ attendees and never gotten anything as bad. How could our made-to-order sandwiches be so nasty?
It made me a bit sad to think there may be some folks out there who associate what they serve at this chain with artisan bread and reminded me of certain "factories" or "gardens" I've been to that serve ersatz Italian fare. While the joints do have red checked tablecloths and play Dean Martin on the stereo, if that is one's experience of Italian food then you really have no idea what Italian food is like.
Fair to say I won't be eating there again.
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Aside from that disappointment, our cross border run went well. Among other things accomplished was picking up a parcel delivered to my parent's house on that side of the border (save money on shipping). Here's a little snippet from the box:
Some of you, I'm sure, can figure out what I picked up from that. I am very excited and looking forward to putting it to heavy use this winter, and the next... and the next... and the next! Much more to come about it as I start putting it to use.