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The Roadside Pie King's picture
The Roadside Pi...

Gaging bulk fermentation/ dough strength continued. The aliquot method.

Advanced sourdough baking techniques.

Until now I haven't had the inclination to move from the "grandma method" to more precise and advanced techniques. First let's look at the simple everyday grandma method. Why has this method stood the test of time, and to this day is able to produce excellent results? From my vantage point, consistency is the key. Using the same formula (recipe) under the same conditions day in and day out account for the success. 

Before I delve into the advantages of the more scientific aliquot method. I want to learn exactly what the "aliquot method" is. My extensive research (eye roll) trace the invention of the aliquot method Kristen of Full proof baking. The tutorial on the implementation, and use of the method come from a post at Breadtopia authored by our own Benny. Benny's background in scientific methods and meticulous attention to detail are evidence by his consistency in results. Who better to learn from but the best?

What is an aliquot anyway? 

The simple definition, appropriate for this discussion is:

Aliquot - a portion of a larger whole taken as a sample.

What are the advantages of using an aliquot sample to judge bulk fermentation (% rise) and even the final proof if so desired?

Precisely measuring the aliquot sample using a graduated vessel and a digital scale allow us to gage the % volume increase with great accuracy and ease. Having this very important information at our fingertips enable us to make small changes in timing or temperature to achieve greater control on the finished product. 

What are some of the limitations of using the aliquot jar method?

A. The small sample will change temperature according to ambient room temperature much faster than the larger mass of the whole. 

B. Higher hydration doughs are better suited to produce accurate results.

For today's hands-on laboratory exercise I will be using the same 100% AP flour 72% hydration sourdough formula that I see used in part one of gaging bulk fermentation section.

Aim: 

1. To gain prophecy in the use of the aliquot jar method

2. To examine and understand the effects of more or less % volume increase 

3. To use the precise % volume increase information to manipulate the consistency of the final product in a consistent and replicable manor. 

 

 

 

 

 

monroe_girls's picture
monroe_girls

Bread shape

First time, making a loaf of bread in my zojirushi…. The bread looks good, smells delicious, and seems to be a great texture, however, with the double paddles in the machine, it seems to keep it separated and almost make two loaves connected to each other. How do I make it look like one big loaf? 

WatertownNewbie's picture
WatertownNewbie

Lithuanian Bread

A year or so ago, Troy (aka HeiHei29er) posted a recipe for a Lithuanian bread.  At the time I baked it a few times, but it had been awhile, and I felt that a revisit was needed.  Besides, we have some neighbors down the street from Lithuania, and I wanted to bake them a loaf (but after baking one for my wife and me to reacquaint myself with the recipe).

A simple preferment (starter, rye flour, and water) sits overnight, and a scald the next morning combines several of the ingredients (red rye malt, rye flour, caraway seed, ground coriander, blackstrap molasses, and water) that give the bread its distinctive flavor.  The final dough contains the preferment and scald along with more rye flour, some whole wheat flour, a little salt, some honey, and water.

After mixing, a bulk fermentation, and a final proofing in a loaf pan, the bread baked for 45 minutes at 465F.  Here is a top view of the loaf.

The crumb is somewhat dense, but very soft and easily chewable.  The flavor is impeccable.

If anyone wants the full recipe, please simply ask.  I found a Brod & Taylor proofing box helpful for maintaining a constant temperature during the stages. and I lined the loaf pan with parchment paper after learning the hard way that this dough wants to stick to the sides.

Happy baking.

Ted

Mangia Pane's picture
Mangia Pane

VWG - Works Wonderfully, Most of the Time

Hello fellow bakers!

For the past year, I have had really good luck with the addition of vital wheat gluten (VWG) to my whole spelt flour bread dough. Today, I found the batch came out with a hard crust which I guess means there was too much VWG added. Whcih is odd because I do not recall using that much more than usual but the loaves are rather like rocks. I use about one tablespoon for every two cups of spelt flour. I don’t think I measured incorrectly this time but it is possible I guess.  Proper proportions are important to get it just right. Another factor beyond my control is the finicky spelt flour which can have wildly different levels of gluten content depending on the batch. Have any of you had experience with VWG and what would you reccommend. Any comment would be most appreciated. Thank you!

fitzgen's picture
fitzgen

Onion-Cheese-Curry Sourdough Loaf

This one was inspired by the Cheeseboard Collective’s delicious Hobrot, but has been adapted to be more similar to my usual sourdough loaves (eg the original recipe called for an egg and this has none). Love a worker-owned co-op <3

Ingredients:

  • 95% T85 flour (I used cairnspring mills trailblazer)
  • 5% whole dark rye
  • 80% hydration
  • 20% levain
  • 15% coarsely grated cheese (I had cheddar and pecorino Romano on hand)
  • 15% diced onion
  • 3% neutral oil
  • 3% curry powder
  • 2.5% salt

Method:

  • sauté onions in oil till translucent, dump in curry powder, take off heat, and mix into a paste
  • dissolve salt into water
  • add levain into salt water and break up into pieces
  • add flours and mix until no dry flour clumps are left
  • rest for 45 minutes
  • 4 stretch and folds every half hour. Mix in the cheese and the onion-curry paste after the first set of folds.
  • bulk till 1.5x in size
  • preshape and rest 30 minutes
  • shape and place in banneton
  • cold ferment overnight
  • bake at 450F in dutch oven with lid closed for 30 minutes
  • remove lid and bake for another 15-20 minutes

Benito's picture
Benito

Baguette Noir au Levain

I felt like baking baguettes this week and decided to do something just a bit different, so I present sourdough baguette noir.  So the colour and flavour of these baguettes do not come from charcoal like baguette au charbon vegetal.  No the colour comes from ground toasted black sesame powder that is added to the well developed dough at the end of mixing. This brings an interesting colour to both the crust and the crumb.  The fat from the sesame seeds also cause the crumb to be softer and the crust to be thinner and super crisp compared to my usual SD baguettes.  The nutty scent is evident as soon as the ground sesame seeds are added to the dough.  Each time I did a coil fold I enjoyed that lovely scent.  There is a nice subtle sesame flavour in the baguette.

Levain 

starter 15 g

Water 22 g

AP flour 45 g

 

Final dough

AP flour 451 g

Water 329 g

Bassinage water 20 g

Salt 9 g

Diastatic malt 5.0 g

Ground Black Sesame 50 g

 

To make 50 g of ground black sesame add 7.1 g sugar and 42.9 g of black sesames to a grinder and grind until a paste develops.  Can make extra but use about 6:1 ratio of toasted black sesame seeds to sugar since black sesame has a drying effect in the mouth that the small amount of sugar can balance out.

 

Overnight Levain build ferment 75°F 10-12 hours

78°F 9 hours to peak

 

In the morning, to your mixing bowl add water and diastatic malt  to dissolve, then add levain.  Use your spatula to cut the levain into small pieces.  Next add AP flour and mix to combine.  Allow to fermentolyse for 10 mins.  Slap and fold x 100 then add salt and hold back water gradually working in until fully absorbed by massaging and then Rubaud kneading the dough, then slap and fold x 200.  Once gluten well developed add ground black sesame, knead until well incorporated.  Can also use your stand mixer.

 

Bulk Fermentation 82*F until aliquot jar shows 20% rise.

Do folds every 20 mins doing 3 folds

Could do cold retard at this point for  up to overnight. (Aliquot jar 20% rise)

 

Divide and pre-shape rest for 15 mins

Shape en couche with final proof until aliquot jar shows 60% rise then (optional) cold retard shaped baguettes en couche for at least 15-30

 minutes for easier scoring.  I often do this for convenience as the oven is pre-heating.

 

Pre-heat oven 500*F after 30 mins add Silvia towel in pan with boiling water.

Transfer baguettes from couche to peel on parchment

Score each baguette and transfer to oven, bake on steel.

Bake with steam pouring 1 cup of boiling water to cast iron skillet dropping temperature to 480*F. 

The baguettes are baked with steam for 13 mins.  The steam equipment is removed venting the oven of steam.  Transfer the baguettes from the baking steel to next rack completing baking directly on a rack to minimize the browning and thickening of the bottom crust.  The oven is dropped to 450ºF but convection is turned on and the baguettes bake for 10 mins rotating them halfway.  The baguettes are rotated again if needed and baked for another 3 mins to achieve a rich colour crust.

My index of bakes

Icy's picture
Icy

Need some help

I’ve tried devolping gluten but it wont form in my pan de cristal

seasidejess's picture
seasidejess

Make Bread Softer With a Scald/Yudane

I gave up doing bran scalds in my whole wheat bread a while back, as it didn't make much difference in my bread and I didn't enjoy all the fiddly sifting and messing about with it.  These days I just mix the dough and let it sit for half an hour to hydrate before I start kneading.

However, if I want an extra tender and soft bread I have started experimenting with doing a flour scald instead, which you can read about here: http://www.wholegrain100.com/making-yeast-bread-blog/converting-your-recipe-to-yudane

And here: https://www.marcelpaa.com/rezepte/tipps-und-tricks-zu-vollkornbroten/ This is in German but if you use the Chrome browser you can tell it to translate the page.

My current working version of how to convert a recipe to use a flour scald:

  1. Increase the liquid in the recipe to minimum 75% of the weight of the flour.
  2. Then set aside 20% of the recipe flour and an equal amount of the recipe water (by weight) to use in the scald.
    - Edit: 10 to 20% of the flour, based on info from Einfach Backen - Marcel Paa
  3. Boil the scald water and pour it over the scald flour and stir,  then let it cool before adding it all back into the dough when you mix everything together.
  4. Feel the dough after the final mix and add more water if needed or if it is meant to be a higher hydration dough.
  5. Let the mixed dough sit for half an hour for the gluten and bran in the dry flour to fully hydrate before you start kneading.

Example of Scald/Yudane Method:

  • Your recipe calls for 450 grams whole wheat flour. Multiply by .75 to get about 338 grams total liquid.
  • 20% of 450 is 90, so you'll use 90 grams of the flour and 90 grams of the liquid in the scald,
  • This leaves 360 grams flour and 248 grams water for the remaining dough.

Porridge/Tanghzong Method:

If using porrige method, make it using 3x the amount of water to flour. Then subtract 2/3 this amount water from the main dough. Overall hydration is increased with this method, but might need to be increased more since the water is so bound up in the porridge. Add some of this water amount gradually back to the dough after mixing if needed to correct hydration. - based on info from Einfach Backen - Marcel Paa

Example of Porridge Method:

Your recipe calls for 450 grams whole wheat flour. Multiply by .75 to get about 338 grams total liquid.

  1. Set aside 45 grams of flour and 3 x this amount (135 grams) of the recipe water (by weight) to use in the porridge.

  2. This leaves 203 grams water for the remaining dough.
  3. Cook the porridge until very thick and all the water is absorbed.
  4. Combine porridge with flour and remaining recipe water, and other ingredients.
  5. Also measure out 2/3 the amount of water that went into the porridge, which may be needed to correct the hydration. In this case, 90 grams.
  6. Feel the dough after the final mix and if needed, gradually add this additional water, 10 grams at a time, until the dough is soft, not stiff.
  7. Let the mixed dough sit for half an hour for the gluten and bran in the dry flour to fully hydrate before you start kneading.

 

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Benito's picture
Benito

Focaccia Dough Weight for 9 x 13” pan

I’m wondering for those of you who bake focaccia how much dough do you use to make a 9 x 13” pan focaccia of average thickness?  I’m not planning on slicing it to make sandwiches so don’t need it super thick.

Benny

The Roadside Pie King's picture
The Roadside Pi...

Couronne Gascon Bordelaise

My new friend, Rhody Rye (Susan) introduced me to this great French bread shape. Since I am easily amused, and always on the lookout for impressive, loaves that are easily accomplished. You can see why I am infatuated with the Couronne Bordelaise. 

While scoring the internet, during my extensive research, I landed on a interesting formula. (Eye Roll)

Actually I stumbled on to the formula that is the basis for my latest version. Additionally, I learned that the couronne where originally constructed using eight or nine dough balls. Couronne Bordelaise that use six are known as Gascon Couronne. As far as I can tell Gascon is a area in the Southwest (Bordelaise) region of France. Be that as it may, enough with the useless information, and on to brass tacks. 

Below is the original formula link.

Claudia and Julia By way of Bake Street.

One uncertainty about the formula is the use of the term "flour of force." I interpreted this to mean high gluten flour. Below is the makeup of my interpretation. 

Since the mass of the final dough was substantially greater than the Breadtopia formula, I used a 12" pie plate.

High gluten flour (Sir Lancelot) - 46%

AP Flour - 15%

Extra fancy Durum - 15%

Whole Rye - 15%

Whole Wheat - 8%

Hydration 72%

Total Flour 650g

Salt 1.8%

Instant yeast .6%

Process

Overnight, cold room temperature preferment

Autolysis 20 min. (Preferment & flours)

Final dough mix ( Bosch #1, 2.) With rests in-between 10 minutes active 10 minutes rest.

Shape & proof at room temperature of 70°F. 60 minutes

Bake 20 minutes full steam, Purge, 20 minutes dry.

 

 

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