The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

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alfanso's picture
alfanso

I had some time constraints yesterday and still wanted to ensure that I’d be able to bake some Bouabsa Baguettes this morning.  I had just enough time in the early morning to mix the flour and water, but then had to place the goop on hold until I could return a few hours later to continue mixing the dough.

The Bouabsa baguette formula that I use (thanks to Janedo and DMSnyder) calls for the instant dry yeast to be mixed into the dry flour up front along with the first-hydration water.  Then set aside for about a half hour before adding the remaining second-hydration water and salt.  Therefore, this is not a true autolyse due to the IDY being part of the initial mix.  

I wasn’t about to leave the first mix out with the IDY already incorporated.  So I tried something new, at least for me.  I mixed the flour and IDY with refrigerated water, which is 37F in my icebox, and then placed the dough into the refrigerator to retard.  The idea being that I wanted the IDY to have as little chance to wake up as possible.

When I did return home I continued the remaining mixing and initial fermentation with stretch & folds proceeding from this point onward in the usual way.  The resuts came out of the oven a short time ago.  Although they look a bit short and stubby, they are not.  They are ~14 inches long, which is pretty much all that I can do with my oven depth.  They just open so much that it makes them look short.  I’m quite happy with them! 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Here is the 3rd version of this bread.   Even though none of them have been exactly the same they were close and the main goal was to se if not aging home milled flour for at least 3 weeks would have an adverse effect on the bread if not used within 1 day of milling.

 

This on was different than the other 2 in several ways.  Less levain was used for this bread.   We did a 21 hour final retard and a 1 ¼ hour warm up on the counter.  This bread had some additional whole grains getting it up to an 11 grain bread from the previous 7 and 8 grain version.

 

Since this loaf was so big, it wouldn’t fit under our largest DO bottom used as a cloche  so we had to bake it on the stone in BOB using Mega Steam.  We also included the 2 week soaked chia seeds in the autolyse this time instead of adding them in before the slap and folds. 

 

Lucy voted this the best looking rustic dough ball of the year so far. Another major change was making this larger loaf into a chacon.  The first version rolled out the dough to cut it into strips that were seeded and then twisted twice to make the shape.  All of this handling really seemed to hurt the openness of the crumb.

 

So we thought that manhandling 40% of this dough to make 2 sizes of balls, a knotted roll for the center and a braided twisted sister rope to surround them would give us a better base line for the crumb to compare to version 1.  We also dipped the middle knot, the smaller balls and the twisted rope in sesame and poppy seeds to give the design some extra character

 

The two previous versions are found here Cherry Yeast Water Sourdough Italian Bread with Apricots, Seeds and Nuts and here Cherry YW Sourdough Italian Boule with Apricots, Seeds and Nuts - Version 2 if you want to do some comparing.

 

We followed the same YW and SD levain builds, the autolyse and the gluten development as the previous 2 versions.  But we did the chacone design and final proofed it shaped for 21 hours.

 

We preheated the oven to 500 F instead of out usual 550 F and baked it under steam immediately at 465 F since the larger the loaf the lower the temperature – if you don’t want to burn it.  We also steamed it longer at 18 minutes rather than our usual 15 minutes due to its size.

 

When the Mega Steam came out, we continued to bake at 425 F, convection this time, for another 10 minutes when the bread read 208 F on the inside and we removed it to the cooling rack.  Total bake time was 28 minutes - pretty short for a loaf this size.

 

This bread smelled wonderful as it baked.  It also cracked lightly at the design points showing it was probably a bi over proofed but it browned up to that beautiful mahogany color we love so much   it was crunchy crisp as it came out of the oven too.

 

We love the outside but will have to wait for lunch to see what the inside looks like.  it looks pretty much like the last bake - version 2.  Open, soft and moist - plus...it is plain delicious for a bread that isn't plain at all.  We love the inside as much as the outside.

 

Formula

Yeast Water & RyeSD Levain

Build 1

Build 2

Total

%

7 Week Retarded Rye Starter

0

6

6

1.05%

AP Flour

47

0

47

9.57%

MG 14% Extraction

7

25

32

6.52%

Cherry YW & Water (RyeSD)

54

25

79

16.09%

Total

108

56

164

33.40%

 

 

 

 

 

Levain Totals

 

%

 

 

Flour

82

16.70%

 

 

Water

82

16.70%

 

 

Levain Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour

14.31%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

86% Extraction Multigrain

261

53.16%

 

 

KA Bread Flour

230

46.84%

 

 

Total Dough Flour

491

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

12

2.09%

 

 

Potato Water 225, Whey 151

376

76.58%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

76.58%

 

 

 

Total Flour w/ Starter

573

 

 

 

Liquid w/ Starter

458

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration with Starter

79.93%

 

 

 

Total Weight of Dough

1,283

 

 

 

Whole Gtrain %

51.13%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dried Apricots

54

11.00%

 

 

Mixed Seeds

82

16.70%

 

 

Hazelnuts & Almonds

54

11.00%

 

 

Total Add Ins

190

38.70%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11 whole grain mix is: rye, wheat, barley, Sonoran White, Kamut,

oats, spelt, buckwheat, einkorn, Hayden Farro and Desert Durum.

 

 

 

 

 

Mixed seeds are 13 G each of poppy, sesame, flax, chia, sunflower

and pumpkin.  Chia seeds soaked in 3 times as much water by weight

14 g  of poppy and sesame seeds were used to sprinkle into the basket.

 

 

 

 

 

Nuts were equal weight of Almonds and Hazelnuts.

 

 

Apricots weighted 104 g wet.

 

 

 

 

My wife cam home from work last night saying "Did you see tnight's sunset?" I did and took a picture of it

mwilson's picture
mwilson

Piergiorgio Giorilli is a baker in a league of his own. His years of experience and effortless skills speak volumes. He is a true master! I have known of Giorilli for sometime now, yet I haven’t until now made a panettone in accordance with his methods and formula.

Processing of the mother dough is a skill that requires tuition and above all else, experience. Giorilli opts to maintain his madre in water during the standard 12 hour period. While as typical, before proceeding to the first dough three refreshments are made lasting 4 hours each time.

From Giorilli.com I sourced his recipe. I adapted his formula to make two 500 gram panettoni, flavoured with the traditional sultanas, orange and citron.


Primo impasto

69g lievito madre mature
75g sugar
120g water
54g egg yolks
72g butter
240g flour

Secondo impasto

60g flour
66g sugar
4g salt
96g egg yolks
129g butter
2g malt
120g sultanas
60g candied orange peel
30g candied citron

aromatic mix x2

30g acacia honey
vanilla pod seeds
orange zest
lemon zest

panettone-crumb

For those wishing to make panettone this Christmas, this one should be your choice, it's a forgiving formula...

isand66's picture
isand66

    This recipe is adapted from the book "Inside the Jewish Bakery" by Stanley Ginsberg and Norman Berg.  The original recipe is a straight dough made with yeast and I changed it up to use a white sourdough starter.

Bialys are mainly a New York kind of thing, and if you have never had one you owe it to yourself to bake some and you will never look back.

Most of the breads I bake need to rest 1 to 2 hours before eating, but with these you can feel free to slather on some butter or cream cheese when they just come out of the oven.

I am able to buy these from the local bagel stores on Long Island and I'm happy to say my version is just as good if not better using the SD starter.

Closeup1

Sourdough Bialys (%)

Sourdough Bialys (weights)

Download BreadStorm .bun file here.

 

Levain Directions

Step 1

Mix all the levain ingredients together  for about 1 minute and cover with plastic wrap.  Let it sit at room temperature for around 7-8 hours or until the starter has doubled.  I used my proofer set at 83 degrees and it took about 4 hours.

Onion Poppy Seed Filling

45 grams Dehydrated Onions

340 grams Boiling Water

14 grams Vegetable Oil

10 grams Black Poppy Seeds

4 grams (1/4 tsp.) Sea Salt

Add the boiling water to the onions and stir and let them sit for around 30 minutes or longer.  Next strain them out and spread them on a piece of paper towel.  Wring out as much water as you can.

Mix the onions with the remaining ingredients and refrigerate until ready to use.

 Main Dough Procedure

Mix the flours with the ice water for about 1 minute.  Let the rough dough sit for about 20 minutes to an hour.  Next add the starter and  salt and mix on low for 5 minutes and speed #2 for another 3 minutes.   You should end up with a cohesive dough that is slightly tacky but very manageable.  Remove the dough from your bowl and place it in a lightly oiled bowl or work surface and do several stretch and folds.  Let it rest covered for 10-15 minutes and then do another stretch and fold.  Let it rest another 10-15 minutes and do one additional stretch and fold.  Let the dough rise until it is doubled in size.  I used my proofer and it took around 5 hours.  (Note: I did not make a fresh starter but used part of my mother starter I had refreshed a few days before which is why it probably took so long.)

When the dough is ready, divide into 12 pieces that are 85 grams each and shape them into round rolls shapes.  Let them rest on a parchment covered baking sheet and cover with sprayed plastic wrap or a moist lint free towel(s).  Let the shaped dough proof until they are doubled in size and the poke test leaves a nice indent.  You almost want them to over-proof otherwise they will puff up too much which you don't want.

Around 45 minutes before ready to bake, pre-heat your oven to 500 degrees F. and prepare it for steam.  I have a heavy-duty baking pan on the bottom rack of my oven with 1 baking stone on above the pan and one on the top shelf.  I pour 1 cup of boiling water in the pan right after I place the dough in the oven.

Once they are proofed sufficiently take each ball in your hand and place your two thumbs in the middle and stretch the dough so the center is paper thin and the outside has a nice thick rim.  It's almost like making a mini pizza.

Shaped

ShapedClose

Next, place a teaspoon of the onion filling in the middle of each shaped bialy and place in your oven.   Place the cup of boiling water into the oven and bake for 15-20 minutes until the bialys are nice and brown.

Crumb

 

WoodenSpoon's picture
WoodenSpoon

  • 300g Dark Rye (48%)
  • 300g Pumpernickel Flour (48%)
  • 52g Rye Levain (4% Rye 4% Water)
  • 157g Cracked Rye (25%)
  • 40g Rye Berries (6%)
  • 626g Water (100%)
  • 13g Salt (2%)

Two days before starting this bread I started keeping my chef at room temp and refreshing until it was super active. On the evening I mixed I combined all the ingredients but the salt and let sit for an hour, then I added the salt and mashed it up until the salt was evenly distributed. After mixing with a spoon for 30 seconds or so I packed the paste into my pullman pan and smoothed the top with a wet bowl scraper kind of making the edges a little lower then the middle. Then I put the cover in the pullman and went to sleep.

13 hours later the paste had roughly doubled and was gently put in a 380 degree oven and baked for an hour. Then I turned the oven down and continued baking for five hours first at 300 for a half hour, then 275 for a half hour, then 265 for three hours then 245 for a half hour and finally 230 for a half hour.

At this point the loaf temped 210 in the middle and I turned the oven off  and allowed the loaf to cool with the oven for an hour and a half, then I removed it from the pan and let it continue cooling before wrapping it in a clean towel and putting in in a paper bag for a bit over 24 hours.

I just cut into it and the taste is great, like molasses and caramal and deep dark rye flavors. The aroma matches the flavor with all the spicy sweet that you'd expect from a good naturally fermented rye.

Thaichef's picture
Thaichef

Good Evening my fellow baker:

I dried my active sourdough starter and save it in a food save bottle before my trip. Now after about one month and two weeks away , I am trying to reactivated it.

I am now on the 2nd day of feeding(with mixture of rye and whole wheat flour, and at 100% hydration) my starter seemed to bubble nicely but when I tasted it, it is not sour! My first liquid I used in feeding it was fresh pineapple juice but now after the 3rd feeding in two days, I used water. 

Is my starter ready to be use or do I need to wait until it  is sour?

When do I know that my starter is ready if it is not sour but bubbles very nicely? Please help.

Thank you.

Thai chef.

 

.

 

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

These buns are made with the same flour, YW levain and SD levain as tomorrow’s Version 3 of the apricot, seed and nut bread without the fruit, nut and seed add ins and using milk for the dough liquid, an egg and some butter.

 

It came in at 45% whole grains and 80% hydration.  The 4 hamburger and 4 sausage buns were egg washed twice with the poppy and sesame seed sprinkled on in between the two.

 

We followed our recent regimen of making the two levains with long retards for both, a 1 hour autolyse for the dough liquid and dough flour with the salt sprinkled on top.  We did the 3 sets each of slap and folds and stretch and folds over 20 minute intervals and then shaped the dough before retarding it in the fridge for 18 hours.

 

We warmed them on the counter for 2 hours applied the egg wash and seeds and backed them in BOB at 375 F - convection for 24 minutes rotating them 180 degrees once after 8 minutes and then twice 90 degrees and 180 degrees the next 4 minutes. 

 

These rolls browned up nicely and were very open and moist on the inside.  I can’t wait to have them for our planned hamburger and sausage dinner tonight.  Lucy thinks she is getting this bun thing down pretty well and can now better compete with her Long Island cohorts who are masters at the bun thing.

 

Formula

 

Yeast Water & RyeSD Levain

Build 1

Build 2

Total

%

7 Week Retarded Rye Starter

0

2

2

0.47%

AP Flour

35

0

35

9.43%

MG 14% Extraction

12

8

20

5.39%

Cherry YW & Water (RyeSD)

40

15

55

14.82%

Total

87

25

112

30.19%

 

 

 

 

 

Levain Totals

 

%

 

 

Flour

56

15.09%

 

 

Water

56

15.09%

 

 

Levain Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

Levain % of Total Flour

13.11%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

86% Extraction Multigrain

175

47.17%

 

 

KA Bread Flour

196

52.83%

 

 

Total Dough Flour

371

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

8

1.87%

 

 

Milk

249

67.12%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

67.12%

 

 

 

Total Flour w/ Starter

427

 

 

 

Liquid w/ Starter

305

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration with Starter

71.43%

 

 

 

Total Weight

824

 

 

 

Whole Grain %

45.67%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Hydration w/ Starter & Adds

80.52%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add Ins

 

 

 

 

Butter

40

10.78%

 

 

Egg (1 large)

44

11.86%

 

 

Total Add Ins

84

22.64%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11 whole grain mix is: rye, wheat, barley, Sonoran White, Kamut,

oats, spelt, buckwheat, einkorn, Hayden Farro and Desert Durum.

 

 

 

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

The No Stir Sourdough Starter

This last week I started a vigorous rye starter by simply pouring water over rye flour and leaving it alone, covering it.  No stir, no mixing, just stand alone at 75°F and watch.  

This time I want to avoid, skip over the stinky bacterial population growth in the starter so I'm pouring sauerkraut juice over flour to see what happens.  Same 74°F to 75°F  temperature.    

Instructions:  

  1. Spoon rye flour into clean tall narrow jar.   About one inch or 2.5 to 3 cm. deep.  (I used 30g Rogers whole rye flour)
  2. Pour strained sauerkraut juice gently over the flour.  Should make a top layer of about half an inch or 1.5cm deep.    (I used 40g strained Bick's Wine Sauerkraut)   Do not stir.
  3. Mark the level, time and date with a permanent marker pen.  Cover loosely with lid or plastic wrap and loose rubber band. 
  4. Stand in warm spot 75°F (23.8°C)  out of drafts and danger.  Do nothing but observe but this includes daily removal of cover and noting aromas before recovering.  

That is it.   Just for information my culture growing glass is about 2" in diameter, 5" tall and weighs 178g empty.  The sauerkraut contains sodium as well as vitamin C, wine and sulphites.  The last of which may or may not interfere with yeast activation.  It is not raw sauerkraut juice which might be preferable.  When the starter takes on a beer aroma, it will be fed more flour.

Anyone wishing to participate is welcome.  

Options might include other flours, other sauerkraut juices, other temperatures.  As sauerkraut is fermented around 60°F it might be interesting if a 60°F sourdough starter could be developed (might take more time?)

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

This pizza dough is made from cherry YW but after letting the YW levain made from 40 g each of YW and AP flour ferment for 4 hours a 2nd stage of 25 g each of AP flour and Water was added.  After it had doubled in volume we put it in the fridge for 24 hours.

 

 The dough really rose in thefridge during the retard.  Right is the dough after deflating, just  before dividing.

When we took it out the nest day to mix it with the AP dough flour and water we added a pinch of instant yeast to the mix.  The dough flour was 240 g of AP and the water added was 145 g with 2% salt.   This made the dough 69% hydration.

 

After 3 sets of slap and folds and 3 sets of stretch and folds all on 15 minute intervals we bulk retarded the dough for 24 hours.  It easily doubled in the fridge.  We took it out of the fridge 3 hours before ewe wanted to use it and immediately divided it in half in roughly 257 g pieces for two medium individual pies.

 

Pie 2.

Thus dough was very good to work with – extensible yet strong.  Once the pies were hand formed we brushed on some sun dried tomato, rosemary and garlic infused olive oil and lightly covered the pie with some pizza sauce.  Once the mozzarella went on then came the hot Italian sausage, red pepper, red onion and crimini mushrooms.

 

Looks better with fresh basil on it:-)

Then came the ricotta cheese that was fortified with pecorino Romano, an egg and s hefty amount of black pepper.  The ricotta was lightly covered with some more mozzarella and pecorino before sliding it and the parchment paper onto the bottom stone into BOB’s (Big Old Betsy) 550 F preheated maw.  These pizzas had fewer toppings and mire cheese than out usual.

 

The first pie was baked without convection fan for 10 minutes and the 2nd pie was baked with convection fan for 8 minutes.  Both pies baked up about the same, not as bold as our usual though.  Both were nice and thin and very tasty.  The crust was very similar to our favorite poolish Focaccia Romana  we like the best but the ricotta and lack of pepperoni made for a very different tasting pizza – we liked it and there was plenty left over for freezing.

 

And don't forget the salad that goes so well with any meal including pizza!

 The other difference in the two was that the 2nd one was garnished with fresh basil.  This was a big baking week for us with pizza on Wednesday, MG Rolls on Thursday and the version 3 of our MG 50% whole grain YW / Sourdough with Apricots, seeds and nuts,  That has slightly different grains and amounts of levain.

 

We are hoping to notice a change in bread because the home milled flour portion was not aged for 3 weeks before using it.  Week 2 was actually better than week one and we will see what week 3 looks like.

 

 

Mebake's picture
Mebake

For October ARTE market, I baked 3 types of bread: Flaxseed Rye , Rye pain au levain, and the popular Roasted garlic bread. I baked a total of 20 loaves, 500 gr each 3 days prior to the Market day.

The footfall at the mall was quite decent in October, but my table was cast to a far corner, so I did not sell out as fast. I had a French visitor who worked in an Artisan bakery in India, and was quite amazed at the fact that such bread could be baked in a home oven. I, of course, explained to her that it was possible with steam and stone, and owed my success to TFL. Another visitor came by , and expressed a keen interest in my bread, when told that it contains no added yeast and that it is naturally fermented. She picked up 4 loaves for her sister, who suffers a yeast allergy of some sort. The roasted garlic bread sold FAST, as expected, followed by the rye pain au levain, and lastly the flaxseed.

I have noticed how chewy and slightly hard my breads were, especially those baked 3 days before the market, which was disappointing. The crumb of the Rye pain au levain would stale faster than I'd like, and so baking all bread in the preceding night will resolve the freshness problem, but that requires a larger capacity oven which I don't own, yet.  Freezing needs space too. 
 

However,

at the end of the day, all bread was sold and despite the increase in the table rental fees, I managed to break even with a few $$ to spare :)

Khalid

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