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Need Help on Crumb, Last 5% of making the perfect Tartine Country Loaf

python_mainly's picture
python_mainly

Need Help on Crumb, Last 5% of making the perfect Tartine Country Loaf

I post on rare occasions and mainly follow everyone's great work on this site. I need help achieving the last 5% of the tartine country loaf-- a good interior crumb. Or maybe it's more like 50% of the importance haha.

Currently, my crumb is very uneven where some areas are chewy, some are light and airy, and other areas have too much bubbly airholes. 

I was following the Tartine loaf recipe pretty religiously but I was getting even worse interior crumb than what I'm getting now. The big difference now is i'm first mixing in a stand mixer until I get a windowpane effect and no autolyse.

I've tweaked my approach to include some tartine elements and other elements similar to this method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FVfJTGpXnU

My ingredients are:

  • I've used King Arthur and Bob's Red Mill. But the current flour I've had most success with is actually a mix of the inexpensive white unbleached AP Ceresota Flour and Bob's Red Mill Wheat Flour. I'm judging "success" as having a more active, robust, and floating starter. 
  • I've also started experimented with adding 3-5g of Bob's Red Mill Flax Seed Meal to my starter and it has made the starter more active.

In terms of maintenance:

  • I bake about ever 2-4 weeks. I keep my starter in the fridge and feed it every Sunday.
  • When I plan to bake, I get the starter out 3 days in advance of baking and start feeding it daily to get it back to a good activity level. 

My current approach is as follows:

  • Mix 75g starter, 75g water, 80g flour 8-12 hours before the bake.
  • Only move forward if the starter is at least partially floating. I've had the most successful loaves when a teaspoon size ball of the starter floats atop the water and never sinks. I believe that's always the goal.
  • The rest of recipe for one loaf is:
    • 160g leaven
    • 230g water
    • 350g white flour
    • 50g wheat flour
    • 8g salt
  • I first mix the leaven in the water until it looks as if it is dissolved into the water for a creamy, cloudy liquid mixture.
  • Instead of autolysing like the tartine recipe and waiting 30 minutes to add the salt, I instead add all ingredients to my kitchenaid mixing bowl at once. 
  • Unlike the tartine country loaf where I was not using the mixer at all, I currently use the mixer to beat the dough and I run it for about 12 minutes on medium-low speed until I achieve a windowpane effect with the dough. 
  • I then let it rest for 3 hours at 78 degrees and fold use the tarting folding technique every 30 minutes during this time.
  • I then shape the dough with a structural stretch, place it into a bread basket, and let it rest in fridge 8-12 hours.
  • I take the dough out of the frigde the next morning and let it rest on the counter for 1 hour. 
  • I then bake in a terra cotta/clay vessel. It's essentially a terra cotta dutch oven. The clay vessel is preheated in a 500 degree oven and is hot as soon as I place the dough in it. I slice a line in the top of the dough and spritz with a handful of sprays of water to add steam before I put the top on the vessel.
  • I bake for 30 minutes in the vessel. Then I take the lid off the vessel, reduce heat to 475 degrees, and bake for another 27 minutes.
  • I let it rest a couple hours before cutting into it.

Again, my biggest issue is having an uneven interior crumb where some spots are airy and perfect while a majority of other spots are chewy and too dense/doughy. 

Here are some pictures of one of my recent, more successful bakes:

Thank you for considering to add your expertise and input! Much appreciated TFL people!

Comments

Hotbake's picture
Hotbake

Beautiful loaf! Looks great to me!

If the loaf split like that even with scoring, it usually means it's under fermented/ underproofed. However I don't think it's too far off. Try upping the bulk temperature just a little without changing the time, or simply add another 30 mins s/f to the bulk.If your fridge is really cold like mine(37f) leave the shaped loaf out for 15 min in room temperature before cold retard. 

python_mainly's picture
python_mainly

Regarding the split loaf, I don't score it completely evenly. It's slightly offset to encourage that behavior. I think it would be wise to score down the middle, in an even fashion in order to assess the rising qualities. 

I will certainly try upping the bulk temperature. My fridge runs pretty cold. I'll test different proofing times, too.

Thanks for the tips! 

pmccool's picture
pmccool

Crust color, oven spring, blistering, you name it.  Thoroughly lovely.

My guess is that the larger voids in the crumb have more to do with shaping than with anything else.  They suggest that a bit more force in degassing the dough before or during shaping is needed.  I know there is much said about handling dough gently but sometimes it needs a couple of smacks with an open hand to break down the larger bubbles that will eventually grow into massive bubbles or even voids.  That should give you a more even crumb when it opens up.  Something to experiment with in the next couple of bakes.

Paul

python_mainly's picture
python_mainly

Thanks for the compliments! 

I think I could do a better job degassing and shaping. I'm going to try some different techniques in this regard. 

Much appreciated!