The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

PalwithnoovenP's blog

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/45779/mothers-day-and-birthday-croissants-and-pains-au-chocolat-des-veinnoiseries-maison-sans

Some bread baking enthusiasts including me have no access to ovens that's why they cannot really do what they want or truly practice their craft.  So on December 16, 2016 let us encourage and uplift them by showing them that an oven isn't 100% necessary to make great bread; that they could do what they want and be happy with what they make.


http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/46176/fathers-day-fried-pies-and-doughnuts

Guidelines:

On December 16, 2016 post a bread that you made without using an oven here.

  • No oven means any method without using one. Your bread could be fried, steamed, cooked on a skillet, cooked in a grill or even in a dutch oven with coals. Be free and creative with your method.

  • Your bread could be unleavened or leavened; quick or yeasted; made with instant yeast or sourdough.

  • You can post earlier or later than December 16. No problems!


http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/43780/two-green-onion-breads-i-turned-our-kitchen-street-food-stall

I hope a few of you would be interested to join in this little challenge. All of the breads you've seen here are made without an oven, so I know you can too! You can device a way to cook bread without an oven or make a bread that doesn't need an oven like donuts, steamed buns, bannock, welsh cakes, tortillas, naan, English muffins, crumpets. pepper cakes and many more.

See you!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

I hope this is not late for homemade bread day. There was no internet connection for several days, finally there is a connection now. I may not post for a while because our internet service provider scheduled a wide repair and maintenance, we're not sure if we will be affected. I'm going to keep this post short and sweet, the connection could be cut off anytime! I will surely repeat this bread and make a more "dramatic" post in the future. I missed uncle Dab's Mandela challenge last time and I don't want to miss this one now.



This is the bread of the countryside, of our yard. I named it yard sourdough because like many breads named after a place,; the starter was made here, the bread was made here and the baking method was based on primitive cooking styles from here.

What characterizes this bread? No measurements, all by feel, a super long autolyze (longer than 16 hours), a firm starter (or a starter that favors acetic acid production), and a long cold proof. It is baked in a clay pot on a banana leaf over heated pebbles. Our place is famous for it's vinegar all over the country so that's why I emphasized the use of a firm starter or one that favor acetic acid to keep the connection to our home.

I autolyzed some AP flour and water longer than 16 hours in the fridge. Unlike others who use ice water for a cold autolyse, I just use room temperature water to jump start the enzymatic reactions and just let the dough catch up with the cold in the fridge. I let the dough warm up for an hour before incorporating the 12 hour old levain (fed with BF, it smells lovely vinegar already) built using 2 builds. I incorporated it using gentle folds and let it rest for an hour. The dough is dry that you can pick it up in one hand or even just 3 finger and it won't droop or tear. After an hour, I gave it a stretch and fold did the same for the next 3 hours, 1 hour apart. After the stretch and folds were done, I let it rest for an hour at room temperature then an hour on the fridge.



I've been wanting to bake seam-side up for the longest time so I did not miss the opportunity here. For me it makes the loaf look more rustic, and rustic is what our home is all about. After the 1 hour rest in the fridge, I pre-shaped it into a tight boule and let it rest for 30 minutes and shape it this way. Place the dough seam-side up; give it a light degassing; give the edges an extra degassing/flattening and fold the edges as shown here starting at 0:32. Put in the cloth lined proofing basket dusted with corn starch and flour seam-side down and put it straight in the fridge for a 12 hour retarded proof.

I know, triangle proofing baskets are rare, I can't even find round ones in my area so I made a makeshift proofing basket from a legal size folder. I used "trusted" origami skills and made a tetrahedron and it worked!



Here is the dough after 12 hours in the fridge. I think it is just proofed right. It is already seam-side up in the photo. It is baked on the clay pot for 20 minutes over a live fire and the next 10 minutes on embers. I "skewered" it on a fork and the top now facing the pebbles browned for an additional 10 minutes.



This is what I'm talking about, baked on a banana leaf over heated pebbles. This photo was taken after 20 minutes. The seams have started to open although one didn't and instead a weak spot on the side opened. The crust is nicely gelatinized. am I using the correct term?



I underestimated the thermal mass of the pebbles (they are even gathered from our yard) so the bottom and a little of the top got a little burnt, I should have used the embers earlier to avoid this but I think it's okay because I've seen some more charred breads like Jim Lahey's Truccione Sare.  If you look closely at the bottom, you can clearly see the pebble marks.



Some close-ups of the crust. The crust was crunchy for the first 6 hours then softened at night. It was flavorful with caramelized notes. It even had some blisters!







Some of the crumb shots are out of focus so I just included all of them. The big hole in the middle came from the fork I suppose and not from the shaping.













It was so good this is what was left in just half a day!





The crumb reminds me of David Snyder's old school San Francisco Sourdough. It is tight because of the low hydration but its is moist and soft with a little bit of chew. It is my favorite crumb texture so far. The aroma is heavenly, toasty and sweet with the unmistakable scent of the banana leaves. The flavor is super sweet like there is some added sugar and although made with only white flour, I could still taste some notes of the wheat. From all of the sweetness is a background of a mild tang. It is mild in my taste but definitely tastes like vinegar.





Definitely a bread worth repeating. I'm gonna tweak this bread further and I'm sure it's going to be a regular in the house. Gonna check your entries later. See you all!

Happy Homemade Bread Day!!!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Park Tae Young's first loaf. She has "Korean" roots so what's better than use her in a bread with Korean flavors. This is just an improved version of my Pane Yaksik, the very first bread I baked in 2016. This time I made it my persimmon yeast water and a more complete cast of yaksik add-ins. Yaksik (藥食/약식) is a traditional Korean sweet dish made by steaming glutinous rice, honey, nuts and dried fruits. Yak (藥)  in Korean means medicine and Sik (食) means food so yaksik literally means medicinal food. I incorporated its unusual flavours in this bread.

I made a levain using my YW and strong flour; I don't know what is the hydration but I just added flour until it was like a thick batter. I fermented it for 12 hours and it became slightly more than double.



The add-ins in their "unprocessed" form. Anti-clockwise from top left: Jujubes, golden raisins, sunflower seeds, and dried persimmon. Pine nuts are the traditional thing for yaksik but I can't find it so I substituted sunflower seeds because I read long time ago that it is a good substitute and I've been doing it for years. Chestnuts too are traditional in yaksik but they are not yet in season.



Jaaaaaaaaan! They are prepared now. The dried persimmon was soaked in boiling water then cut into small pieces, the sunflowers seeds were shelled one by one and the jujubes were deseeded and cut in half so the beautiful red color pops in the loaf.



The seasoning sauce. Brown sugar, honey, soy sauce, cinnamon and sesame oil. I reduced the brown sugar to 1/3 from the original recipe and increased the amount honey to complete the total amount of sugar because it is the honey that makes yaksik "medicine". Half of the sauce will go in the dough and half is for soaking the fruits. I added some extra soy sauce to the dough; there is no salt in the dough, it all comes from the soy sauce. It is very fragrant and strong from the cinnamon and sesame oil. I didn't taste it in it's pure form like before, I already learnt the hard way! :) 



The fruits soaking in the sauce. They look so glorious with all that sheen!



The dough is simple. Strong flour, water, YW levain, seasoning sauce, and oil. I kneaded it until it passed the windowpane test and then I added the fruits and I knead the dough some more until they are incorporated then an overnight bulk rise at room temperature. since it is already getting colder. Like before, it rose nicely; the soy sauce and cinnamon had no ill effects.



I shaped it into a round and plopped it in my circular tin and proofed it for 3 hours or until double. Before baking, it was brushed with a mixture of egg yolk and soy sauce. I baked it for 30 minutes in my clay pot; 20 minutes with live fire and the last 10 minutes on embers.



The bread does not have a very tall profile because the tin was relatively wider than it is tall and I pressed the dough really flat. It is also a bit lopsided because of it's position in the clay pot.



Here is the top. It is not smooth, in fact very bumpy from the large amount of add-ins.



It was immediately devoured so no crumb shot. :( I had some left over dough and baked it in stainless steel glasses. Unfortunately, the center was gummy because I pulled them too early because of their size. I should have let them cook the same time as the large one.







The crust is very thin and delicate and the crumb is soft though the commercial yeast version is a tad softer and fluffier. I'll try to make the crumb fluffier and more feathery next time, perhaps by adding a bit more oil.

The flavour still rocks! Like before notes of peanut butter, chocolate and cinnamon wafted in the air when I opened the clay pot. No sour note, honey flavor dominates along with complexity of the fruits with the soy sauce providing a slight savory note but not enough to reveal itself, sesame oil and sunflower seeds make it very nutty and the cinnamon provides a familiar flavor in the background. I hope I'm not just repeating what I wrote before. ;-) Textures also play well; the chewy persimmon, the soft jujubes, the plump and juicy raisins, and the crunchy sunflower seeds! It's a sublime combination!

I wonder what will be its flavor if I make it with sourdough and/or some whole wheat flour. I hope I could try it soon.

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Meet Park Tae Young, my persimmon yeast water!

After sourdough, I promised myself I will try yeast water. Although it took many months, here she is finally. Ready to raise breads with a different character. I documented another journey of my baking life so I hope you enjoy.

Many TFLers here have used yeast water and posted their beautiful breads made with it. It's really an old thing here and when I read it before I really wanted to try it. I waited so many years before giving it a try, I'm lucky because many have formalized the yeast water method by that time.

Uncle Dab has great tutorial about yeast water here YW Primer. Even though I followed his steps, I always fail just like my SD journey, in fact its 3 times already that I failed. All those attempts, I used raisins because I read it is one of the most reliable fruits for yeast water but I forgot that the only ones available here are oiled raisins so maybe that's what was hindering my success. Determined to succeed, this time I took a different route.

This yeast water is inspired by and named after my Korean friend Park Tae Young who is also fond of dried persimmons. Actually we became friends because of food, 90% of the time we talk about food; Korean or not, sweet or savory. It is how we discovered that we both like dried persimmons and became closer than ever. We often share this snack, even through photos as she is in Korea now.



Dried persimmons have a unique taste; like honeyed apples but different. They're fragrant and sweet but are very chewy and hard. The outside bloom looks like molds but I read they're just sugars from the pulp that migrated to the surface while drying into a delicate white bloom. Maybe there's yeast in there too. Any fruit or dried fruit can be used for YW but skin on and unwashed are the best, so I decided to use my favorite dried fruit for this. We got this beautiful dried persimmons from Chinatown a couple of months ago, They're a little expensive and we seldom have them because it's only 3 times a year at most that we go to Chinatown (because of the distance and heavy traffic) so they must be put to good use.



Average temperature from start to finish is 82 F.

I just removed the seed in the middle and cut the persimmons into little pieces and fill the jar with water three quarters full. No measuring or whatsoever. I didn't boil (to make sure that only the yeast in the fruits survives) my water like before. I just used it straight from the faucet. Before I was overly careful but now, anything goes because I feel that this is a success. I shook the jar and opened the lid twice on the first day.



Yes, miracles do happen! It is when I don't show any obsessive compulsive behavior that I succeed! The next day, it was already bubbling and active. There was a "psssh" sound when I opened the tight lid. Before it was already 7 days and yet there is no activity! Because it was already active, I didn't put honey anymore as prescribed by uncle Dab for the third day but I continued shaking and opening the lid for the next couple of days.



Here is the top view before shaking on the second day.



I kept the jar submerged halfway in water to keep ants at bay. I think ants are of the reasons too for my failures because they introduce bacteria and other microorganisms in the yeast water I'm trying to culture. Well I cannot blame them because who can resist the sweet fragrant liquid that flows down the sides of the jar when it is shaken.



Here is she is on the third day. Nothing much has changed, she is still bubbly and active but the persimmon pieces look much softer and the aroma of honeyed apples became stronger.







I shook and opened the jar for the next 4 days and here is she is by the 7th day. The "psssh" and fizzing sounds are much louder and the aroma is not unlike that of fresh persimmons. 



The top looks like a thick smoothie but settles and becomes homogeneous after shaking.



Here is close-up shot of the bubbles on the side indicating that she is very active.



Since we seldom buy dried persimmons and my yeast water could be all used up before we buy the next pack to refresh her, every yeast water that I make from dried persimmons; I will call Park Tae Young (朴泰映). Her English name is Claire Park so I guess I could fondly call my yeast water Claire sometimes. :-)

A letter that my friend wrote me, I wish I could read Hangul!



Park Tae Young and Zhou Clementine together. My bread workforce and friends in the kitchen!




Happy Yeast Water Baking!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Old Shanghai (老上海- lǎo shàng hǎi), the 1930's Shanghai is one of my favorite eras in history just like old Manila. There's no's other era in my opinion where flair and flamboyance meet sophistication and class! It has this certain charm that's difficult to describe and resist. The fusion of East and West just harmonizes with each other; the buildings, the bridges, the alleys, the vehicles, the qipaos/cheongsams, everything! Shanghai was not called Paris of the East for no reason. If time travel will ever come true, it is sure to be one of the eras I will go back to!

This bread is inspired by my love for the Old Shanghai era and my desire to experience what was life back there. Of course, it was a fusion city so the food there must have influences from the west. First, bread- wheat is not the staple in some parts of China and from research Chinese breads before that time are only steamed breads and baked flat breads. Sourdough known as lǎo miǎn (老麵 )is also used to leaven bread of any kind in China as commercial yeast was not yet available at that time. The breads were very basic too with probably only 4 ingredients just like European breads because they were meant as staple food.

Here is what I came up with, a bread made with Chinese ingredients using western techniques. I thought of Chinese flavors that will complement each other. I love lychees for their special flavor and they're one of the famous Chinese fruits so I decided to use them then a bolder flavor so I thought of Mandarin oranges, their flavor packs a little punch but not overpowering so that's the combination that I thought. Finally, I decided to use Jasmine tea, one of the famous teas in China for the liquid because it has this delicate floral aroma that will go well with lychees and mandarin oranges for a triple layered Chinese flavour profile.

The bread is still made with sourdough for a little bit of European and Chinese tradition and BAKED in a PAN because at that time those ideas were new and most likely to become trendy. A revolutionary and fashionable bread at that period, that's what exactly this bread is!

*Another coincidence October 16 is World Bread Day, I'm sad I wasn't able to join when it was still active. They're on a break now but I will still celebrate it with this bread.



The dough has both bread and AP flour for a balance of chewiness and tenderness. I autolyzed it with the jasmine tea for 2 hours at room temperature. The dough is dark because of the tea. The jasmine tea need to be fairly strong for it to come through in the finished bread. A tip for brewing strong tea: Increase the amount of tea, not the brewing time!



After the autolyze, I added the levain and salt and gave it 30 slap and folds. I gave it 2 more sets of 30 slap and folds each one hour apart. The dough became smooth and silky.



After two hours, I incorporate the lychees and mandarins by a stretch and fold. I gave it 2 more sets of stretch and folds to evenly distribute the fruits and add strength. The bulk fermentation is 6 hours in total then it went into the fridge overnight. Zhou Clementine likes a long warm bulk fermentation for her to raise the dough properly. The dough could have a retarded cold bulk ferment, a short and warm proofing, or another retarded proofing. You could certainly fit the dough to any schedule but you cannot mess with long warm bulk ferment, after that it will be a breeze.



Here is the dough the next morning. I used canned lychees and mandarins because fresh ones are not yet in season. I forgot how much water they contain and made the dough extremely watery, much like a ciabatta!



I tried to shape it into a log on a liberally floured surface but it was futile so I just dumped the whole thing into the greased and floured loaf pan and proofed it at room temperature for 2.5 hours.



Here it is after the final proof. The pan is more than 80% full and the dough is very bubbly. I'm just amazed with my starter's strength. I'm so excited to bake it as I slide the lid onto the pan.



I baked it in a frying pan over a wood fire rotating the pan at regular intervals, that's where the lid comes in handy; it's mainly conduction that cooks the bread. Because of the high water content of the dough I baked it for 1 hour and 20 minutes. An hour with live fire, the rest just embers and here are the results.



The crust is slightly crisp and soft and studded with oranges and lychees everywhere. A perfumey fragrance filled the air when I slid the the lid off to release the bread. This is the most fragrant bread I have ever baked.



The crumb is slightly open but even maybe because I mangled the dough while "shaping". The crumb is soft and moist because of the fruits but it is certainly not underdone. What I'm most amazed with is the colours of the crumb as seen in the close up. I mean, just look at it! The tang was just right, and lychees and mandarin oranges taste wonderful together with the subtle jasmine aroma. A very delicious bread!







Sorry, but I just can't get this scene out of my mind that this bread is served as a snack or as a house special at a hip lounge in Old Shanghai so I tried my best to make it happen. . Coincidentally, The table where the bread lies is made from lychee wood! I also use lychee firewood to cook this bread, I only used 4 "sticks" and they were enough for the entire cooking time because they produce a roaring stable and long fire! Lychee is if my memory serves me right, is the 6th heaviest and densest wood in the world and comes with a vibrant red color without staining. The wood is from our yard, maybe more than a hundred years old because my dad told me that when my great grandfather came here, it was already a huge tree providing shade! It was starting to decay two years ago so we had it cut down and made into furniture.



The name 夜上海 (Ye Shang Hai) means Shanghai nights and reflects the vibrant, decadent, and luxurious culture of Old Shanghai (of course there is a dark side to all of this and that's not the one I find amazing about this era) much like the adventurous nature of this bread. I thought of the name after I listened to the song Ye Shang Hai by arguably the most famous diva of the era, the golden voice of Old Shanghai: Zhou Xuan. Here is the song  周璇- 夜上海 complete with translations and background and a video showing what the era was like.
 


This is my wild imagination of sitting in a lounge indulging in this bread and a mocktail (I don't drink! :P) while listening to Zhou Xuan and other jazzy music letting the hours pass by. Here are a couple more of classic hits from the era that I like to listen to, maybe you can too if you have time. 周璇-花樣的年華周璇 - 月圓花好 / 周璇 - 何日君再來 / 周璇 - 陋巷之春 / 白光 - 桃李爭春 / 李香蘭 -夜來香. Most of them are by Zhou Xuan because she is my favorite singer of this era, most of the songs here too were covered by Teresa Teng, my favorite singer of Chinese songs. This is my weird side again, I like them because they have an old and lovely feel quite unlike the many songs of today and it also helped me in learning the Chinese language.

With this picture, I remembered the film In the Mood for Love. It is set in 1960's Hong Kong but the feel is like 1930's Shanghai. It is also one of the reasons I learnt to love Cantonese and learn some words. The restaurant and dining scenes there looks like this one; watch it someday, it's a great film.



This one even looks like a sepia photograph!



This is a long post because it is full of my personal aspirations and I'm just so happy about this bread. Someday I will make a bread that is dedicated to Old Manila too. Thank you very much!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Hey! I'm back! I just had a HUGE culinary failure 2 months ago and since then I haven't baked or cooked anything until last week. My failure was so huge and heartbreaking that just talking about it makes me sad. I kept myself busy so I could move on but there are always reasons to celebrate so I made these gifts to give to some significant persons to me.

I just took another Chinese proficiency test . If you're familiar with Hanyu Shuiping Kaoshi (HSK), that's what I took. I passed level 4 that includes 1200 vocabulary; 600 new words and 600 old words from the previous 3 levels. I wasn't paying attention to the date of the exam and only became aware of it 10 days before the actual examination date with zero knowledge of the new vocabulary. The old words; I have no problem because they're already engraved in my brain. I studied by myself  for 7 days and asked for help from my teacher and friend before. Imagine what work out my brain had for a week!



To repay her kindness and make some kind of memory of our friendship I made some hopia for her. The day before the exam instead of reviewing, I spent the whole afternoon to make hopia filled with homemade red bean paste, I know your familiar with these from my old posts. Having a cold also doesn't help! I made ways to keep everything sanitary. Fortunately before dark the hopia were ready and already boxed. That night my headache was so severe I didn't even bother to open my notes and I just said to myself that if I don't pass there is always a next time.



The morning before the exam I tied the boxes with ribbons and tried my best to write a short message in Chinese. I know my writing is not the best but at least I tried. She is from Mainland China so I used simplified characters, that's also the system used in the proficiency test. I don't have much issues in speaking and reading Chinese but writing is another story for me. What are written here are just two ways to say "Thank you very much!" and my Chinese name.



The test was difficult and I did not even finish the writing part. I'm just happy it's all finished in the end. In fact I already conditioned my mind in the beginning that I went there just to give my gift. She was surprised when I presented her my gift.  She said " How did you make it?!" "Come over here I have some pretty mooncakes from a friend!" (Hopia is similar to some styles of mooncake in China. This is a variant of the 酥皮月饼 su pi yue bing Flaky Mooncake.)  All of the conversations are in Mandarin. The other teachers were surprised too! They said it's so delicious on par or even better than the ones they have in China. They even said a man who can cook well can marry a beautiful girl in China! :P They really appreciated it and I'm so happy!




She was so happy so unexpectedly, she gave me a gift too! A mat and a brush to practice Chinese calligraphy. Water is used as an ink and fades as it dries allowing the mat to be used over and over again. What a practical and eco-friendly way to practice calligraphy; writing which is the skill I struggle the most. She showed me how to use and wrote my name on it. Oh my! The writing was so beautiful! Bear with me because I'm still practicing.







Here is my Chinese name that I wrote on it.



After a few moments, it fades.



Here is a comparison.



 Here are some more of my practice characters.

I love you



Thank you in Traditional and Simplified script. Although most of my friends are from the mainland and I use simplified characters to communicate with them, I also study traditional characters myself because those are what are used in our country. I just love them both.





I really love her gift and I will always remember her when I use it. Her colleague maybe because of the deliciousness of the hopia also gave me a gift even though we don't know each other that much; it's a book with a talking pen that will read every passage in the book so you have a pronunciation and audio guide.

My beautiful and kind teacher/friend with me. 



She lives in this ancient beautiful town in Hunan. I want to go there someday. I really have this thing for places with ancient feel; the houses, the stone bridge, the river.



I checked the results of the test and I passed! It was really a miracle thank God! 180 is the passing score for the 300 item test; with only 10 days of review, making hopia instead of having a review before the big day and a cold and headache on the day of the exam, I still managed to score 207! We're just overwhelmed even my parents who really support me in my Chinese studies. I'm planning to take level 5 next time, another hard work because 1,300 new vocabulary will be added! I hope I will pass that too.

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Another gift this time for an old friend.



I met with an old friend from my high school days too. It has been 4 years since we last saw each other. We were classmates when we were freshmen in high school but we do not talk much, it's only at the end of the school year where our friendship blossomed. We were one of the "loners" in the class who do not have a "fixed" set of friends and we found console in each other. We would talk on the phone four hours during the summer breaks from night till the wee hours of the morning! I guess it's just because we have the same interests, hobbies and likes. By our sophomore years we were no longer classmates, I was move to class 2 from class 1 of the special curriculum because my grades weren't good enough; well, still good but not enough to make the cut for class 1. It was new world for me because basically half of the class was gone and a new half  from the old class 2 replaced them. We were ranked individually to determine the final classes. Even though that's the case we still continued our friendship even the long telephone talks. Though I had new friends, there was no one that can understand me like her.

We graduated and she was the class valedictorian with an average of 94.XX, I was 77th out of 80 students with a grade of 90.I can't remember; most grades were just separated by decimal numbers. She went to the University of the Philippines to study Industrial Pharmacy; I also passed the university's entrance exam but it's for another campus for a degree in Nutrition. I didn't pursue it because it was too far away and I really want to take something related to hospitality.



4 years later we already had our degrees when she randomly just greeted me on my birthday this year. We chatted a lot (a long chat is the evidence that we really missed each other) and she asked me if I want to meet her because she will come here to our hometown in a few days. I said Yes! Of course! So we set the date, time and venue of our "mini reunion". She asked me to bring anything that I cooked for her. She just wants to taste any of my concoctions because she was curious every time I posted something.

I don't have a lot of ingredients that time and knowing that anyone who tastes my hopia smiles and raves about it, I said I will make hopia for her. She was amazed just as she heard it because she always thought that the little treat is never made but always bought. This hopia is filled with peeled split mung beans, what we call here as yellow mung bean paste. I made the mung bean paste a day before and made the pastry on the day of our reunion to  ensure freshness. These are 4 large pieces and because we both like mixing sweet and savory flavors I made the 2 plain and the other 2 with chopped salted egg.



When we met were so happy, we barely contained ourselves. On our way to the food court she immediately asked about my promise hopia and as soon as we are seated I gave it to her and we both experience a sense of bliss. She devoured a piece (the one with salted egg) immediately and encourage me to turn it into a business  because to her the taste, the appearance, and presentation was perfect.


 
We talked for 4 hours as she goes through another piece of hopia this time more slowly. We did a lot of catching up and talked about a wide range of topics about the fields we studied. Here are just some samples. First we talked about yeasts like candida and lactobacilli, it was our opening topic because it's related to her microorganism study and my baking. :P Then it went wild as we talked about molds like aspergillus oryzae, a. flavus, a. niger, penicillum species. Then we talked about toxicology related things like aflatoxin B1 G1, ochratoxin, neurotoxin, hemotoxin, and other stuff. Then our high school memories and nostalgia, then anime, then our future plans, then her thesis about bacteriophages, then about languages we study like the derivation of meaning of Chinese characters; I taught her a little French and Mandarin then she taught me some Japanese, we even sang old and foreign language songs before we end our short reunion. Now you know how crazy we are and why we found completeness in each other. Throughout our stay, 4 or 5 groups of people sat next to us and as you can imagine, hearing all those crazy things from us; all of them gave us weird looks but we don't care! That's what make us happy!

Of course, the last thing we did was to take some souvenir photos!

My genius friend Charleen! We understand each other like no other!





Thank you very much!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

I originally planned to enter this for BBD #83 for a bread with special flour but I'm pressed for time and did not make it to the deadline so maybe it was really meant for BBD #84. Thanks to Susanne for a great theme of sandwich bread for this month: https://magentratzerl.net/2016/06/06/bread-baking-day-84-sandwichbrot/ and to Zorra for coming up with this great monthly challenge: http://www.kochtopf.me/bbd-breadbakingday. Sandwich bread is my favorite type of bread to make because it is hearty and homey and the standard bread in our house. Discovering so much more techniques, I now strive to improve our favorite house bread.



This bread was mainly inspired by the painting and music here. The painting is so finely crafted with textures and colors as if it was real. The music also really fits the melancholic mood; I almost cried when I listened to it for the first time. The painting reveals different stories depending on the interpreter's mind; I see a longing for true love rather than unrecruited love. When I was in the university, this is my calming music whenever I'm having a review for an exam. Played with rain and thunder effects, it is much more calming and much more real. With the painting and music in my mind, I was able to form a story and a formula for a bread that will fit the setting.

Beautiful Chinese Music - Bamboo Flute













                                                                           Lover’s Bread

Once upon a time in Ancient China, there were lovers both of noble descent who truly love each other. On their rare dates, they would meet at a stone bridge to take a stroll under the romantic moonlight and eat at their favorite place, a special bread. The owner of the place was truly ahead of their time, baked bread in decorative shapes with sticky rice and beans were sold and became a favorite among the people.

During that time as frequent attacks from neighboring states often transpire, all men ages 17 and up are required to partake in a three-year mandatory military service. The man was stationed to guard and protect the northern border. One night on the last year of his service, their camp was savagely attacked by enemies injuring hundreds, luckily they defended the area and defeated the enemy but he was not one of the lucky ones able to return. When the news came to the lady, she was stricken with sorrow and grief and did not know what to do, they were almost getting married. For her loyalty to him and their true love, she vowed to never marry which surprisingly her family agreed to.


One rainy dusk while walking, she saw that same stone bridge where they use to meet during those rare chances and saw two young lovers much like them. She remembered her lover only to realize he is not there anymore and again felt the cold and melancholy so to cheer herself up she decided to go to their favorite place and eat the bread they used to love. At least with that bread she feels he is still with her filling her heart with good memories and bliss.


I could make the story more dramatic, you know adding various classic elements and archetypes for this kind of love stories but this is not a writer's blog so I focused on the bread. :) When I heard the music and saw the art, I just can't take them off of my head, imaging various scenarios in my mind like clothing, architecture and FOOD. I thought of various Asian ingredients and incorporated them into a bread. Rice and beans immediately came to mind as they are classic combinations especially in East Asian cuisine.

I thought of roasted soybean flour because I think it's unique and it is seldom used for other purposes than rice cakes. In Japan, mochi served and/or dusted with kinako just like injeolmi with konggaru in Korea but in China, the same combination of sticky rice and roasted soybean flour is much more dramatic, called San Da Pao (三大炮) meaning three cannon shots, watch it here at 04:22 and find out more here. It must be very entertaining during ancient times, they even found a way to make food a form of entertainment maybe because there were only a few during those times.

A bread containing sticky rice and roasted bean flour made with sourdough BAKED in a tin with a decorative shape is what I thought of a revolutionary bread that fits the period and setting of the painting if it was true. The oval shape of these sandwich breads is my signature so do not steal it! :P 東愛 Dong Ai means Eastern Love and I think it surely fits the theme of this bread.



I couldn't find roasted soybean flour so I made my own adaptation. Mung beans are probably the second or third most popular bean in East Asia and it is widely available here so that's what I used. I soaked it, steamed it and mashed it. The resulting paste was cooked in a pan until dry and powdery then further roasted until brown then finally sifted to remove any big bits. It smells very fragrant and nutty.

Rice is the staple in most of Asia and in our country as well. I have made a bread with rice before so I decided to do it again this time leaning towards more on oriental flavors, meaning no milk or butter. I made a sticky rice roux again but instead of milk or water, I used rice washing for it; it is common practice here to use it in lieu of water for soups for a more delicious result so I brought it here too. If you make rice, you know what I mean, the first wash removes the dirt and dust and you throw that away; the second rinse, that's what you want to keep, clean but with still a lot of starch.



Here is the sticky rice flour mixed with the rice washing and honey. I originally planned to use a saccharified starch sweetener like maltose or rice syrup because I feel it's more authentic but I can't find it so I used honey since I reckoned it is of medical importance in Oriental medicine and it tastes good too compared to just sugar.



Here is the finished sticky rice roux. It will provide a specific chew and moisture retention to the bread.



A day before mixing, I fed Zhou Clementine from her cold sleep and fast and proceeded to make the levain the next day. A fortnight and half without feeding, she grew more than triple in 12 hours. The levain ripened and became more than double in 6 hours. She is smelling very fragrant and sour. This is just her second loaf and I want to understand her more because her first was not that good so I did not include even a bit of instant yeast, This a fairly complex bread for me purely raised with a sourdough starter. I heard enriched breads are not really sourdough friendly especially for a young starter but I still continued.

Here are the ingredients before mixing. Anti-clockwise: Roasted mung bean flour, strong flour, sticky rice roux, levain, and salt.



I kneaded it adjusting the rice washing bit by bit and kneaded until the gluten is developed then I added some oil to soften the crumb. I'm surprised that I was still able to pull a relatively strong windowpane despite the large amount of sticky rice flour. The bulk fermentation took 6 hours at room temperature and then to the refrigerator overnight. I found that Zhou Clementine likes a long warm bulk fermentation to be just shy of doubled. I thought that all of the enrichment was too much for her because the growth is not that obvious as I'm used to when using instant yeast but I still continued and believed.

Here is the dough next day. Nicely doubled and fragrant, no yeasty smell, just sweet sour aroma.



I divided it into 3 and shaped them differently before proofing them in my special tins. I wish I took a photo of them before proofing so you could see the strength of my starter. The bulk fermentation was long but the final proof was fast and Zhou Clementine raised them just fine in 3 hours.

The first one is a two pieced coiled loaf.



The next one is three pieced loaf but instead of rolling them, I twisted each dough  piece like a twist doughnut.



The last one is a braided loaf.



Here they are altogether.



They were baked in my clay pot for 40 minutes, flipping them in the 20 minute mark. I will provide a recipe for to try it but be aware I'm not sure if these are the exact amounts I used but this is what I will use if I have a scale and an oven. Sorry too, I'm terrible at math especially baker's math because I almost do not use it. 

RECIPE IN THEORY:

100% - Total Flour - 80% white strong flour 20% sticky rice flour (If you're skeptical, scale it to 10% I believe it will still make a difference then adjust the balance of the flour) (NOTE: 15% of the strong flour is pre-fermented}

70% - Rice washing or water (The water for feeding the starter and making the levain is taken from this amount) (NOTE: 70% of the water is used to make the sticky rice roux, the remaining water or "adjustment water" is used to adjust the dough consistency during the final mixing)

15% - Roasted mung bean flour (Use kinako (roasted soybean flour) if you don't want to go through the trouble of making your own bean flour and you can find it, that's what I originally wanted to use)

1.8% - Sea salt

7% Honey (If using other sweeteners, amounts may need to be varied)

7% Oil (Any neutral flavored oil)

PROCEDURE:

1. The day before making the dough, refresh the starter if necessary and make the levain. Leave at room temperature for 8-12 hours until doubled. You can use it immediately or refrigerate it for another 12 hours or use any levain schedule you are used to.

2. Make the sticky rice roux by combining water, honey and sticky rice flour and cook over low heat until thick. Cool. Although similar in principle to a tang zhong, as sticky rice roux will behave very differently. A tang zhong is porridge like but this one will be like mochi when done.

3. Mix the flours and salt then the roux, levain and the remaining water until combined. The roux will be a little difficult to incorporate at first  and the dough will seem dry so you need to adjust the water but do not add too much, the dough will be soft when all are nicely incorporated and extra water will lead to a very slack dough which you do not want. A soft and a little sticky dough is what you want.

4. Knead until medium gluten development then add the oil and knead until incorporated and the dough is able to pass a windowpane.  The windowpane maybe thick because of the gluten lowering sticky rice and will be studded with mung bean grains (if you do not use kinako) because it is not as fine as the flours. I do not know what will the kneading process be like in a mixer because I don't have one so make your own adjustments.

5. Bulk rise ar 82F for 6 hours the refrigerate overnight. Shape into a sandwich loaf the next day and proof at 88F for 3 hours until almost tripled, You know your starter so stick to how your starter raises your bread.

6. Bake at 350F for 40-45 minutes or until loaf registers to the right temperature

*NOTE: Maybe I used 250-280g of total flour and it fits an 8X4 (9X4 or 8X5  or 9X5, sorry again, I'm not use to standard pan sizes). loaf pan.

*With your equipment and experience, I'm sure you'll do a  better job than me. I'm curious how they will look if they will be baked in a standard oven.


When I opened the clay pot, a sweet wheaty smell with notes of peanut butter and yogurt wafted in the air. It was also raining the day when I made it just like in the painting.



Crust is thin and soft at the sides and thick and crunchy at the top and bottom and a little charred on some areas.









Crumb is very nice and again very difficult to describe. Soft and fluffy but chewy, light but has dense feel. Unlike super market bread that morphs into a little solid block when squeezed, this one? Squeeze it hard and see it slowly come back to it's shape. The sticky rice gave it a very special texture, soft but chewy and resistant. gives in at first but fights back a little for a satisfying texture like saying to your face: you're eating bread not air but still it's fluffy and familiar.  See? I'm running out of words again, I think you just have to try it to know what I'm talking about.

Crumb when pulled: See the fluffiness and softness!



Crumb when sliced: It's very fine and looks like there is some whole grain in it because of the color. If I don't have a good serrated knife, I would have been in trouble because its texture makes it difficult to slice.





Slice it thick or thin to suit your preference,





The taste is tangy and nutty like there was peanut butter in it. My recent favorite of a thick smear of peanut butter on sourdough bread is answered with this bread, I don't know what's with it but it's so good. It easily approximates a PB&J sandwich even without the PB.







I don't know if this will surprise you but this are mini loaves and they are really small, small enough to fit on the palm of your hand!



I stored it at room temperature for 2 days just to test things out. I don't know if the increased keeping qualities of sourdough is a benefit because we finish the loaf faster because of the added and better flavor.

After 2 days at room temperature, it didn't lose any of its shreddable quality. It was still fluffy and soft!



It also toasts very well. Perfect for breakfast because of the energy from the wheat, rice and honey and the protein from the beans, and also you only need to eat a small amount to feel satisfied so perfect for those on the go that doesn't have much time to eat.



My first choice to eat with this toast is some bananas and honey because it will go well with the nutty flavor but a little bit honey is already fine.



For the complete bean experience, with some sweetened mung bean paste.



Or both mung bean paste and honey if you're packing some serious load of energy.


PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

Today is Father's Day so I prepared meals for my dad. Normally, one will make some burgers for dad or prepare a carnivore feast but you know us, we love sweets and dad do not like to eat much meat anymore so I prepared some sweet and rich treats for him.

I made some fried pies. We really love fried pies especially peach and mango but I prepared a special one this time.



The dough is spiral pastry because I'm running low on butter and I still need a pretty large amount for all other things I'm going to make including the filling for this pie. Crimping the edges is my favorite part of pie making. I think I'm pretty good at it.



These are fried coconut cream pies and these are no ordinary pies. We love coconut sweets so when we harvested some young coconuts I thought of using it in a special dessert. Instead of packaged sweetened flaked coconut, young coconut called buko with soft thin delicate sweet meat is used here and it is what makes these pies special.



The filling is a milk based custard made more special by pandan extract from fresh pandan leaves. Buko pandan is a classic flavor combo in the Philippines; if you don't like it, just use vanilla but please use buko, it;s much better than packaged coconut with superb texture and flavor.



The pastry is flaky, golden, and crispy! It almost doubled and blistered after frying in hot oil. Its slightly salty flavor goes very very well with the sweet and rich custard filling.





Here it is bitten to reveal the filling and all those succulent young coconut strips! Enjoy!







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I served the pies in the morning and for lunch, I cooked some pancit. Again! This one has chorizo, braised pork leg and mushrooms, shirmp, and veggies! Very delicious and perfect for lunch.





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For the afternoon snack, I made doughnuts. Though made with commercial yeast, the overnight fermentation and quite a bit of butter makes it really flavorful. In the hotel where I had my practicum, doughnuts that were oval were considered "rejects" because of mishandling and unfit for sale and display but I see beauty in them so I purposely made my doughnuts oval. I plan this to be a my signature shape if I will ever open a doughnut shop, so don't steal it! :P I fried them right this time and learnt that a low flame is the secret for a perfect doughnut especially for filled doughnuts where no hole is punched in the center. The inside is done and the outside is golden brown and crispy.



Coffee and doughnuts go so well together and dad also love coffee so I rolled them into one dessert, coffee doughnuts! In the hotel I tasted a fantastic coffee doughnut filled with coffee whipped cream and glazed with a caramel glazed and decorated with pastry cream. It was so delicious but it costs $2.00 for a piece! I want to make something similar  and delicious. For just over $3.00 I made 4 with an extra little one from the scrap dough pieces. The filling is a coffee custard made with instant coffee powder; if I want to be fancy, I will use my own blend of coffee beans, roast them to my preference and infuse my milk with it. Still with it's simplicity, it was better than the hotel's not because of the taste (it's on par) but because of the fresh ingredients; no doughnut pre-mixes, no powdered pastry cream that just needs to be mixed with milk and no powdered glazes!



It goes great with hot chocolate. It was rainy and windy this afternoon and it's really comforting, I chose a simple dusting of icing sugar rather than a glaze since the filling is already sweet. Still, in my case it is a cold chocolate drink made from raw cocoa liquor that is pressed and dried into cakes.


 


The crust is crispy and light that only a real doughnut can have. Some may argue but in my opinion, baked doughnuts can be good but they can NEVER match a fried doughnut!





This is a "knife and fork" doughnut so I filled them generously with the custard. If you want to eat them on the go, fill them less. The crumb is ethereal! It so soft and fluffy and light and feathery! I think it's because of the kneading, I also think that I have improved in my kneading skills; before I spend more than an hour but now it takes just under 25 minutes for the dough to pass the windowpane. This is the first bread that I sliced using my serrated knife that my dad gave me on my birthday, without it I would be in trouble. It's like magic, it effortlessly sliced the very delicate doughnut without me applying any force, just slicing back and forth like playing a violin. Thank you and Happy Father's day daddy!



Crumb: sliced and bitten!



Thank God for this wonderful day!

Happy Father's Day to my dad and to all fathers out there!

Maligayang Araw ng mga Ama!

父親節快樂!

父亲节块乐!

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

I made banana roti almost a year ago and we loved it! I also noted before that I will try this with mangoes come mango season and it's finally here! Banana roti is a famous  street food in some South East Asian countries like Malaysia and Thailand, from the name it's obviously made with bananas but I've seen some made with a different fruit like mango. Mango is my favorite fruit and where I'm from is famous for its mangoes so I'm sure I will love it.



This bread/snack is simple; an unleavened dough is stretched very thinly the cooked on a griddle for a few seconds then the fruit filling is deposited in the center then the sides of the dough are folded neatly like a handkerchief, a few minutes later it is flipped and when browned beautifully cut into small pieces then drizzled with condensed milk. Here is a newer video I found for this snack, jump to 1:52 for the actual cooking process. Both mango and banana were used for this roti.



Mangoes ripen in large quantities so we froze those that we cannot eat. Very juicy and sweet. For the filling, the mangoes were just mixed with eggs.



Here is the mango custard. Mangoes are already juicier than bananas but frozen mangoes are even more watery! I don't know if this will work as filling.



For the actual roti, I want to try a different folding method too like the ones in Malaysia but it's more difficult because the dough need to be stretched thinner and larger and this is just my second time to make this kind of bread so I stuck with the method I used before and tried to improve. I used the same dough but with slight modifications. Here are the dough balls soaking in oil.



I used AP flour (you can see in the white dough color) as uncle Dab suggested and it was more extensible than my dough before made with strong flour. I also made it wetter and softer this time. My technique may have improved too and I'm still using this plate as my work surface. I was able to stretch it thin without any holes.



Look! This is some serious windowpane!



I cooked them just like in the video. The mango filling is very runny and I have to be fast in folding the dough to contain the filling otherwise it will be a mess; mango flavored scrambled eggs instead of smooth mango custard!



It was much better than my banana rotis. More even square shape with good distribution of the filling.



I cut it into 9 pieces using my spatula just like how vendors do it! The mango filling is peeking.



Fully dressed and ready to rock & roll.



Condensed milk, salt and sugar. You know, half of the can of condensed milk ended up in my and dad's hands!



Crispy, soft with a slight chew and a fragrant sweet creamy mango custard filling! So delicious!  The texture is unique, like a crepe but like a tortilla too, only this method could achieve this texture. Even though mango is my favorite fruit, I still prefer this with banana. The mangoes broke down too much and the flavor is somewhat diluted quite the opposite of banana where the flavor and aroma gets concentrated. This dessert is still really good, with the crunch from the sugar and the salt playing very well with all the sweet flavors.



A mango-pineapple drink to accompany the rotis.



I got a little bit crazy too and made some homemade spring roll (popiah 薄餅皮) wrappers. We were craving for some spring rolls but we don't have the wrappers and it's too dark to go to the market so I experimented in making my own whether it will work or not.



Still a bit thick, I need to practice the dabbing technique (Here is a video so you know what I mean) more but again not bad for a first try making only a few pieces. This week is all about thin breads / wheaten products.





PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

It has gotten cooler here at 81F so I gained some confidence to try puff pastry. I recently saw some very elegant apple turnovers (chausson aux pommes) and I can't get them off my head, I really want to make and taste them and that day finally came.

The recipe uses inverted puff pastry and that made me even want to try it more. I first heard of inverted puff in the anime Yakitate!! Japan; it said that instead of the dough enclosing the butter, it is the butter that encloses the dough! What?! I said to my self. Is that possible? Yes! It is really possible! I was convinced when I saw a recipe in Advanced Bread and Pastry.

The key to it is the beurre manié, the floured butter so you can wrap the butter onto the dough and proceed with the turns without trouble. I gave it 2 sets of double and single turns made alternately. It was trickier to roll because it's the butter that is in contact with my steel pipe.



The recipe also includes the most delicious apple filling I've ever tasted. A famous fast food with an "M" and a "D" made me hate apple pies because of it's overly sweet mushy one-dimensional filling! This one is just the opposite, sweet, tart, and complex with nice apple chunks. The original recipe recommends Golden Delicious for the compote and Granny smith for the chunks. I can't find Golden Delicious here (You guys in the US and Europe are lucky to have a large variety of apple cultivars) so I used the only ones available. 



Since the compote is meant to be sweet and smooth. I used apples that are overly sweet and turns mushy when cooked; I used Red Delicious and Fuji apples for the compote; I steamed them until soft and because I don't have a food processor, I just passed them through a sieve until fine. The compote was cooked on a pan to reduce the water content. The Granny Smith were left in chunks for texture and to also provide tartness, they were sauteed in butter and brown sugar for a caramel flavor. It was heavenly when the compote and apple chunks were mixed.



The puff pastry (I should have dusted the work surface liberally with flour but because I didn't do that, some of them stuck to surface) was cut into 4.5 inch diameter circles. The delicious apple filling was scooped into the centers and closed to form a half moon shape. They are eggwashed twice then scored with a leaf pattern before being baked in my preheated clay pot for 20 minutes. They were flipped after 10 minutes.



Some of them leaked that's why the syrup from the apples burnt on the surface but on some it formed a lovely natural glaze so no need to brush them with some simple syrup.



The firewood that day was not so good so it did not produce the necessary heat for the pastry to puff but it was still the crispest flakiest pastry I've ever eaten. The crust looks pale on some areas but it was very crisp, light and  delicate all over. The leaf pattern was obvious too despite being flipped! I'm so happy!



The dough was also a little salty and goes well with the apple filling. The combination of the salty flaky dough and tart sweet aromatic filling was epic! It was dad's favorite pastry that I've made to date. The photo didn't show the filling well because we're all in a hurry to eat them and a thunderstorm was coming too and we have mangoes to pick before it gets rainy and windy! I ate some with cheese and it goes well with the apple turnovers but more will go for a bit of cream or ice cream. Oh, I have the best accompaniment to these, cheese ice cream! I know, many of you just puked but it is one the most common flavors of ice cream in our country and it's also a characteristic of our cuisine to mix sweet and savory; and honestly it's really good but to each his own. Try it someday, it is really delicious.




I also made a peach cake for my birthday. Choux pastry, custard and some peaches, yum! I'm tired of conventional birthday cakes composed of a sponge or "butter" cake filled with not even buttercream but with an overly sweet greasy shortening based frosting. I really want to bend the realm of birthday cakes so I decided to make my own this year. Last year's cake was unique too, Brazo de Mercedes a meringue roulade filled with a rich lime scented custard.














I also cooked some pancit. It is always marks a special occasion. There was no canned braised pork leg but it was still overflowing with Chinese sausages, shrimps and veggies that's why it was very delicious.



The whole table for the simple birthday meal.



May dad's gift for my birthday. A nice serrated knife so I can cut my breads easily. I've always used a small Chinese cleaver for cutting my bread and it's difficult not to squish and destroy them especially soft breads. Now, I could cut them with ease. Thanks daddy!





Zhou Clementine today. She has gotten stronger, she now quadruples in 12 hours to fill more than half of her home.



I thank God for my birthday and gifts. I am so blessed!

My favorite is the cake because you know, I really have a sweet tooth. Crunchy choux pastry, creamy rich custard and sweet juicy peaches. Amazing! A dusting of icing sugar completes the look. I served it with an iced sweet potato leaf tea, it goes great with it!



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