The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

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dabrownman

We took last week's more tame bake and decided to gussie it up some.  There is just no way to hold my apprentice back when it comes to gussieness.  She decided to add some walnuts and re-hydrated black mission figs (one of our favorite combinations for fruit and nuts in bread) and some pumpkin and sunflowers seeds

 

These new additions went along with last week’s ground sesame and flax seeds, Toadies, red and white malts and VWG.  We cut back on some of the whey and white whole wheat flour and replaced them with more water and our special mix of 75% extraction home ground flour consisting of 25% rye, 25% spelt and 25% Kamut and 25% farro.

  

Since we again used the 25% sifted out bran portion to feed a smaller levain, we ended up with 85% whole grain bread instead of 100% like last week.  With all the fruit, nut and seed additions, I didn’t honk that Lucy would notice that some of the whole grain was missing.  We need some sifted bran and middlings for the next batch of Toadies.

 

Even though the 85% hydration was the same as last week’s bake the dough felt more wet and sticky.  This was probably due to some of the whole gain missing and that the re-hydrated figs may have carried some extra water with them.  In any even the dough was more slack for sure and hopefully this will open the crumb some more and still provide proper lift.

  

We followed a similar method to last week with one exception. We built the levain on Tuesday instead of Wednesday so that it could sit in the fridge for 48 hours to get more sour.  Since all of the whole grain bits were in the levain we autolysed the dough flours for 3 hours while the levain was warming up and finishing in final doubling.  The levain was refrigerated when it showed a 25% volume increase after the 3rd feeding.

  

We did 12 minutes of slap and folds since the dough felt slacker.  We incorporated the ground sesame and flax seeds, along with pumpkin and sunflower seeds, during the first set of (3) S&F’s that were performed 20 minutes apart.  The figs and the walnuts went in on the 2nd set and by the end of the 3rd set everything was well distributed.

 

After a short 15 minute rest the dough was pre-shaped and then shaped into a short squat batard to fit our oval basket and then it was placed into a used trash can liner and immediately retarded in the fridge for 20 1/2 hours.  It wasn’t quite were we wanted it when it came out of the fridge so we let it warm upon the counter an hour.

 

The dough was then un-molded on the parchment covered mini broiler top, slashed and  placed into the 500 F preheated mini oven that was steaming with 2 of Sylvia’s steaming cups and a ¼ cup of water thrown into the bottom of the mini oven as the door was closed.  Three minutes later we turned the oven own to 475 F.

 

We let the bread steam for 16 minutes before removing Sylvia’s steam generators and turning the oven down to 425 F, convection.   We rotated the bread every 5 minutes and in 25 minutes the bread tested 203 F when it was removed to a cooling rack.  So, this time the total bake was 41 minutes.

 

The bread bloomed OK but didn’t spring that much.  It might have been over proofed a little bit. It must have been that extra half and hour in the cold.  It browned well and had the crust that the mini oven puts on bread nearly every time but without the blisters.  The kitchen smelled like bake day for sure even without any aromatic seeds in the mix  - I knew my apprentice forgot something!

This bread is one that you won't forget.  Earthy, nutty, seedy, with a hint of sweet figs.... just plain tasty.  The crust is boldly baked, thick and it stayed crunchy too.  the crumb is soft moist and fairly open for a near whole grain bread with lots of stuff in it.  If you are all alone on a deserted island, this is the bread you want to have in your knapsack.  It made one of the tastiest grilled chicken sandwiches with the typical fruits and veggies, some pickled veg from the sausages last night and a slice of brie - Yummy!

Formula

Brunch with this bread the next morning.  Delicious!

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multigrain SD Starter

10

0

0

10

2.27%

25% Extracted Bran

20

30

32

82

18.59%

Water

20

30

32

82

18.59%

Total

50

60

64

174

39.46%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multigrain SD Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

87

19.73%

 

 

 

Water

87

19.73%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

16.14%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

75% Extraction Multigrain

254

57.60%

 

 

 

White Whole Wheat

100

22.68%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

354

80.27%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

8

1.81%

 

 

 

Whey 135

327

74.15%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

92.37%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

441

100.00%

 

 

 

Whey 135 & Water

414

93.88%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

93.88%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

85.41%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

86.07%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

1,078

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.13%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

1.13%

 

 

 

Toadies

15

3.40%

 

 

 

Ground Flax & Sesame Seeds

25

5.67%

 

 

 

Re-hydrated Figs

75

17.01%

 

 

 

Walnuts

25

5.67%

 

 

 

Pumpkin 25 & Sunflower Seeds

50

11.34%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

3.40%

 

 

 

Total

215

48.75%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

75% extraction multi-grain is: 25% kamut,

 

 

 

 25% Farro, 25%, spelt & 25% rye

 

 

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

We decided at lunch time to have sausages for dinner and needed some buns.  I went to the KA web site to get a recipe for some that would be ready in 6 hours max.  I found a no knead recipe to use as a basis but decided to make a poolish with a pinch of ADY.  We put the whole wheat in the poolish to get it wet as long as possible and put half the honey in the polish too.

 

After 2 hours we mixed everything else in and did 10 minutes of slap and folds.  This is pretty wet dough at over 82% hydration.  It eventually came together so it was not sticking on the counter.  We did 2 sets of S& F’s at 15 minute intervals and then let the dough rest for 20 minutes before shaping into 4 hot dog buns and 2 thin hamburger buns.

 

We let them proof or 2 3/4 hours on the counter on parchment, on the mini oven’s vented top of the broiler pan, in a trash can liner.  We mixed melted bitter with cream to brush on top and into the 350 F mini oven they went ready or not.

We baked them for 9 minutes on the bottom and then moved them to the top and rotated them while turning the temperature down to 325 F, convection this time.   They didn’t brown as much as we though they would but they tested done at 200 F so we took them out and brushed them with the creams butter mixture again..

 

I didn’t get any pictures of them coming out of the oven because the girls were starving but I did get a picture of the left over Boudin sausage left over and the 2 hamburger buns.  These could have proofed about an hour longer but dinner had to be served.  The buns were soft and moist and tasted great though.  No one complained which is unusual around here.

 

The hamburger buns didn't go to waste.  Yummy with grilled fries, some veg and a salad!

Poolish Pinch of ADY

Build 1

Total

%

Bread Flour

37

37

11.38%

Whole Wheat

38

38

11.69%

Water

75

75

23.08%

Total

150

150

46.15%

 

 

 

 

Poolish

 

%

 

Flour

75

23.08%

 

Water

75

23.08%

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

23.58%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

White Whole Wheat

50

15.38%

 

AP

200

61.54%

 

Dough Flour

250

76.92%

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

6

1.85%

 

Cream 125 & Water 25

150

46.15%

 

Dough Hydration

60.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

325

100.00%

 

Cream 125, Water 100

225

69.23%

 

T. Dough Hydration

69.23%

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

11.69%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

82.62%

 

 

Total Weight

636

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

Butter

25

7.69%

 

Egg

55

16.92%

 

Total

80

24.62%

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

With English muffins and bagels out of the way this week and breakfast taken care of for several weeks, we moved on to our normal Friday bread bake.  We wanted to stick to our 100% whole grain recent theme, this time 99.89% while getting back to some of favorite add ins and return of the neglected; Toadies,  ground flax and sesame seeds.

 

Lucy wanted to shy away from the chewy bits in the crumb this week so, no sprouts or  scalded whole berries were used but, to make up for the missing, we added yogurt whey that we had frozen from the last batch of NF yogurt we made.  The protein will be kicked up and notch with the whey making this even healthier than it looks.

 

With the whey for dough liquid we were really going for the sour so we decided to pump it up some with a new levain retard schedule where we took out our stiff 66% hydration whole wheat and rye starter that has been in the fridge for a week and retarded the levain for 24 hours after the 2nd and 3rd stages rather than our usual retard after the 3rd stage only.

 

We fed the levain the 25% portion of bran that we had sifted out of our home milling of rye, spelt, farro and wheat.  We had 101 g left so it went into the levain in stages to make a 100% hydration leaven.

  

This put most of the whole grain equivalent into the levain so it would soak and soften for a as long as possible.  The rest of the whole grain equivalents; malts and Toadies, went into the 2 hour autolyse with the King Arthur white whole wheat.

 

We held back 36 g of water to squish the higher than normal salt though the autolyse when it had finished as we added the levain.  Normally we would have 1 or 2 g less of salt but with the whey in the mix we decided a little over 2% with the whole grains might slow things down a little bit and keep the dough from exploding while in the fridge.

 

We did our normal 10 minutes of slap and folds which was 2 slaps and 1 fold as the dough was on the stiff side even though it was at 85% hydration.  90% or more probably would have been better in hindsight but ti eventually smoothes out.  We rested the dough for 20 minutes before the first of (3) sets of S& F’s were dome on 20 minute intervals

 

After a 20 minute rest following the last S&F, we pre-shaped the dough into a boule and then 10 minutes later finished the job.   We put it into one of our favorite baskets, retrieved from the garage, which we had not used for a while.  Since the basket was well used it didn’t take much rice flour to get it back into bread shape before the dough went in.

 

A grilled cheese and chicken Tzitzel lunch on shaping day.

We then got out a new trash can liner and placed the basket inside before sealing with a rubber band and placing it into the fridge for an118 hour retard.  We liked what the long 20 hour cold did for the bagels earlier this week so we thought this bread would do well at 18 hours - even with the whey as liquid.  Luckily there wasn’t too much spelt bran in the mix

 

After 20 hours, we were a little shocked that the dough wasn’t fully proofed so that we could bake it straight out of the fridge.   So, on the counter it went for proofing until it had risen 90%.  We de-basketed it onto the parchment lined vented top of the mini oven’s broiler pan and styled it with Ian’s T-Rex slash.

 

We decided to do a cloche with a stainless steel mixing bowl for steaming instead of our normal (2) of Sylvia’s steaming cups.  The bottom of the broiler pan was preheated to 500 F in the mini oven.   Before the stainless covered bread went into the heat we tossed a quarter cup of water into hot broiler pan bottom and then covered it with the vented top holding the cloched bread above the water for a new kind of mega steam technique – under the dome.

 

 After 2 minutes we tuned the oven down to 475 F and continued to steam for another 13 minutes before removing the bottom of the broiler and the steam with it.  E then turned the oven down to 425 F, convection this time and baked the bread for another 10 minutes rotating it 180 degrees every 5 minutes until it read 205 F on the inside with the probe thermometer.

 

The bread sprang, bloomed and browned as my apprentice expected.  She sometimes reminds me of ancient Grecian oracles of note who could see the future as easily as Lucy can see the long nose on her face. 

 

What a great sunset last night to go along with today's lunch.  Just a delicious sandwich bread .

The crumb was soft, open, moist and very sour - just the way we like it.  Tomorrow we hope it is even more sour - and it likely will be.  The crust stayed crispy as it cooled  and was the tastiest part by far.  We like this bread a lot.

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multigrain SD Starter

11

0

0

11

2.59%

25% Extracted Bran

20

30

45

95

22.33%

Water

20

30

45

95

22.33%

Total

51

60

90

201

47.24%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multigrain SD Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

101

23.62%

 

 

 

Water

101

23.62%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

22.43%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

White Whole Wheat

325

76.38%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

325

76.38%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

9

2.12%

 

 

 

Whey

296

69.57%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

91.08%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

426

100.00%

 

 

 

Whey 296 & Water 101

397

93.18%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

93.18%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

99.89%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

85.18%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

896

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.18%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

1.18%

 

 

 

Toadies

15

3.53%

 

 

 

Ground Flax & Sesame Seeds

25

5.88%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

3.53%

 

 

 

Total

65

15.28%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

These aren’t your normal whole grain bagels - not that whole grain ones are at all normal much less made with SD and YW.  What we did was take the 25% of the sifted out portion of home milled grains and used that to feed the SD starter where the liquid for it was yeast water.

 

We love using the sifted out bran and endosperm portion to feed the levain.  This gets all the hard bits in the wet for the longest period of time to soften them especially if you retard the levain after the 2nd and 3rd feeding for 24 hours each time like we did.

 

When mixed back into white dough flour at a 25% portion this turns the dough into a 100% whole grain one and makes the bagels very tasty indeed.   In this case the whole grains were rye, wheat, farro, kamut and spelt.   So we got a nice mix grains which also makes for great flavor.

 

The YW has a tendency to mute the sour flavor somewhat, so the retarding of the levain twice and the dough for 20 hours was an attempt to get the sour back.   It was somewhat successful but the YW also makes the crumb moist and soft too.

 

The initial hydration was 58% but we kept adding more water to the mix just to get it to the point where we could knead it for 20 minutes .  If we were making bread with this flour mix, we would be at 85% -90% hydration using fresh milled flour.  So the 63% hydration of this dough is misleading.  In reality it was the hardest bagel dough to knead of all time and we have baked plenty of bagels over the years to know.  It felt like 50% hydration

 

We shaped the bagels two ways; the over the knuckle and roll to seal and the poke a hole in the center of the ball and enlarge methods.  We also boiled the 3 batches of 3 bagels each for different times, 30 seconds, 60 seconds and 90 seconds to see if there was a difference.  The (9) bagels weighed in at 108 each and we made a dough ball for the float test with the left over.

 

We also had several toppings, white sesame, black sesame, W&B sesame, white poppy, black poppy, white and black poppy and then made 3 all in that included the sesame and poppy varieties as well as oregano, basil, caraway and kosher salt.

 

Normally the mini oven would put some nice large blisters in the bagels using (2) of Sylvia’s steaming cups but this time they were very small ones instead - probably due to the 100% whole grains and lower relative hydration than our usual 58% hydration of the 30% whole grain bagels.  Einstein was right - its all relative and probably why he is famous for cake like non NY Style bagels today.

 

The dough ball floated to the top of water glass in a split second so the cold proof worked well indeed.  The boiling liquid was a dark tea color of barley malt syrup and a teaspoon of baking soda.  The bagels were briefly put flat side down on the towel to remove excess liquid from that side before being overturned into the seeds. They were then placed flat side down onto parchment that lined the vented top cover of the mini’s broiler pan.

 

The steaming cups were added and the assembly was placed into the mini at 500 F with a ¼ C splash of water into the bottom of the oven as the door was closed.  After 2 minutes, the temperature was turned down to 475 F for an additional 6 minutes of steam.  After 8 minutes of steam the cups were removed and the temperature turned down to 425 F, convection this time. After 8 more minutes, 16 total, that bagels were done and they were removed to the cooling rack.

 

Tzitzel grilled cheese sandwich with all the normal fixings on bagel shaping day.

These bagels browned up nicely and no difference could be detected between those that took a longer bath than others.  Small holes but they were very crispy with glass like crust  - just what we want.  The crumb was more open than we expected and it was also very soft, moist and chewy too – another plus.

 

How did those truffles get in there?

These are such awful nice bagels you forget they are 100% whole grain and healthy too.   They are our new favorite bagel and by far and away everything we are looking for in that elusive NY bagel.

 

We had them toasted with a schmear of CC and the dough ball was buttered and red raspberry jammed – delicious.  Can’t wait for Saturday’s smoked salmon dressing the top of these fine bagels – a topping we got for last Saturday and our 26th anniversary – but forgot it when I realized there wasn’t a decent bagel in the house.

Who took a bite out of that smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel?  Thank goodness the bacon, brie, butter, minneola marmalade and egg half is still untouched!  Had to wait for Saturday brunch to taste these bagels properly:-)

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multi-grain SD Starter

16

0

0

16

2.85%

AP

 

 

50

50

8.90%

 25% Sifted Rye Spelt & Wheat Bran

80

50

0

130

23.13%

Total

96

50

50

196

34.88%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rye & WW Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

138

24.56%

 

 

 

Water

138

24.56%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

33.27%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

AP

424

75.44%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

424

75.44%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

10

1.78%

 

 

 

Water

220

39.15%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

51.89%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

562

100.00%

 

 

 

Water

358

63.70%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

63.70%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

63.12%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

980

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

2.67%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

0.89%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

0.89%

 

 

 

Barley Malt Syrup                            25  

Total

50

8.90%

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

master baker at work even if you have seen it before.  The picture is a take on David Snyder's Pugliesi Caprioccio (sp?)and the video is Chad Robertson not baking with a DO :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5kKeKSfyOE

Happy baking

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

We haven’t made English Muffins for a while and wanted to up the whole grains and use YW for the leaven.   We used the 25% sifted out portion of our whole grain milling to feed the YW levain so this has the effect of being 4 times that amount being whole grain for calculations.  Thee grains milled were rye, whole wheat, spelt, farro and Kamut.

 

We did a 2 stage levain build that took 12 hours and then added it to the dough four and milk at 9 PM the night before - less the salt, sugar, baking soda and vinegar.  We mixed it with a spoon and left it on the counter overnight until 6 AM the next morning.

 

The rest of the ingredients were added the next morning and distributed thoroughly with 4 minutes of kneading.  We added the vingar to activate the baking soda since there was no SD acid to do so.  We rolled the dough out to a little less than ½” and cut out the muffins with a plastic glass.

 

The EM’s were places on parchment sprinkled with semolina, semolina was sprinkled on top of the EM’s and then they were covered with Plastic and allowed to proof for 45 minutes.

 

An electric fry pan was heated to 340 F and the EM’s were grilled on both sides for 5 minutes each side until brown and then they were moved to a cooling rack.  These came out well puffed up, with decent holes but no sour taste.  A perfect recipe match  for those who want a healthy, non sour, English muffin.  We liked them right out of the pan with butter and jam or toasted.

Oregon Red Raspberry Jam seemed to work OK.  Yummy!

Breakfast EM Sandwiches - toasted EM's with medium caramelized minneola marmalade, Apple wood smoked and maple cured bacon, a mushroom omelet with habanero jack cheese inside and Co-jack on the outside.  Surrounded with sliced peach, strawberries, red raspberries and sweet cantaloupe.

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

Total

%

Yeast Water

100

0

100

23.20%

AP

50

0

50

11.60%

 25% Sifted Rye and Wheat Bran

50

25

75

17.40%

Total

200

25

225

17.40%

 

 

 

 

 

YW Levain

 

%

 

 

Flour

125

29.00%

 

 

Water

100

23.20%

 

 

Hydration

80.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

28.37%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

White Whole Wheat

72

16.71%

 

 

AP

234

54.29%

 

 

Dough Flour

306

71.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

8

1.86%

 

 

Milk

254

58.93%

 

 

Dough Hydration

83.01%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

431

100.00%

 

 

Milk 254, Water

354

82.13%

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

82.13%

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

69.61%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

793

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1 T of sugar, 1 tsp each baking soda and vinegar

 

 

& 8 g of salt added  the next morning

 

 

 

Before the kneading, rolling and cutting

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Not long ago Varda did a series of posts on her quest to recreate a non SD Pratzel’s Tzitzel.  She had the good fortune of talking to the original owners about the formula for this bread and gained some good insight.  I though I would do a SD one just to be different and I prefer SD any day, any way to yeasted breads

 

Varda has been modifying her formula as time goes on too as I found out when I messaged her about her recipe.  I think the key to the bread is what flours are used.  Since we can’t get the exact flour, even if we knew what it was exactly, I just sort of tried to home mill a mix of flours that I though might be fairly close and add in some WWW to balance things out.

 

The formula has the equivalent of 100% whole grains when including the malts, 40% rye and 40% wheat with the flours being home milled and sifted to 75% extraction and 20% additional being KA white whole wheat.  We used 4 times more aromatic seeds, mainly caraway but some anise, coriander and fennel too.

 

40 g of the sifted out bran and endosperm were used for the 3rd stage feeding of the levain build which make up the whole grain equivalent of 170 g when adding 10g g of malt to the whole grain - if my math is right.

 

Varda’s latest recipe has 41% un-sifted home milled rye mixed with KA’s Sir Lancelot at 80 % hydration with .8% caraway seds.  She says that Taitzel has a lower hydration than one would suspect.  I don’t have any high gluten wheat flour so I made my own by using the milled and KAWW wheat and adding 15 g of VWG to get the protein up a bit.  I didn’t bother to calculate what it might have been protein wise.

 

Varda used 80% hydration for her Tzitzel but I upped it to 85%.   The 80% home milled flours are very thirsty and at 80% hydration the dough was too stiff to do any decent slapping and folding.  Plus the extra 25 g that was added after the autolyse, was used for a 2nd hydration and to get the pink Himalayan sea salt  incorporated – so hold back some liquid to do this.

 

The stiff (66% hydration) rye and whole wheat starter had been in the fridge for a week.  We used 15 g or it for the levain.   The first 2 feeding were on 3 hour intervals and it doubled after the 2nd feeding   We made the last feeding of bran and 1 hour later it had risen 25% when we refrigerated it for 24 hours to improve the sour.

 

We want a higher than normal amount of SD levain, 20% this time, since it is the acid that keeps the rye enzymes in check and when doing a long retard with rye  it pays to up the levain and don’t let the dough sit out on the counter too long.

 

When we retrieved the levain from the fridge to let it warm up and finish the doubling for the 3rd stage, we started the autolyse, which included everything else but the aromatic seeds, the salt and the held back 25 g of water.   We did sprinkle the salt on top of the autolyse dough ball though.

 

Even leftover Pad Thai looks pretty good.

Normally we would do at least a 4 hour autolyse and prefer 8 if using whole grains but, since the whole portion of the grains was in the levain we did a 2 1/2 hour autolyse which coincided with the doubling of the levain.

 

After squishing the held back water through the fingers in the bowl to get it incorporated and spread the salt around, we did 10 minutes of slap and folds.  After 7 minutes the dough was no longer sticking to the counter and by 10 minutes the dough was smooth and elastic. After a 15 minute rest, we incorporated the aromatic seeds with the first of (3) sets of S&F’s where one set is 4 stretches 4 folds for the compass points.

 

We let the dough rest 15 minutes between the S&F’s and after the last one before shaping into a batard and pulling it tight.  We rolled the batard in corn meal that was dusted on the counter as it was plenty sticky enough.  We lined a basket with a rice flour impregnated towel and then dusted the bottom with a little more core meal.

 

The batard was dropped into the basket, placed into a trash can liner and immediately retarded it in the fridge for 18 hours - a little longer than normal.  We planned on letting the dough rise and proof completely in the fridge and then bake it in the mini oven still cool about 45 minutes out the fridge in the morning.

 

This cool dough made the scoring easier and kept it from spreading too much like it would want to do at room temperature.  This plan seemed to work OK as the dough proofed well in the fridge and the mini oven only takes 15 minutes to get to 500 F.

 

We micro waved (2) of Sylvia’s steaming Pyrex cups containing dish rags and half full of water until, they were boiling.   The bread was un-molded diagonally on the mini oven’s vented, broiler pan top that had been covered with parchment paper.

 

The batard slashed and the steaming cups were placed on the opposite open corners of the broiler pan the whole thing was slid into the mini.  A 1/2 C of water was tossed into the bottom of the oven as the door was closed to give the bread a nice burst of initial steam.

 

We turned the oven down to 475 F after 2mintes and allowed the batard to steam an additional 13minutes.  At the 15 minute mark, we removed the steaming cups returning the bread to the oven with a new temperature of 425 F, convection this time.

The baby apprentice is all ready for a nap under her blankey 

In 10 more minutes it was done and read 205 F on the inside.  Not the prettiest loaf of bread on the outside so we hope it tastes better than it looks.  Have to wait to slice it since it is a rye and they need time to redistribute the moisture.  Couldn't wait and wanted this bread for a lunch sandwich today.   It tastes like a very good deli rye.  i like the fact that it is over a third whole grain and has 40% rye instead of the usual 30%.  The sour really comes though too and the aromatic seeds are there in the background telling you this is a typical American S Rye.  The crumb is soft, most and open but the taste is it's calling card.

A nice breakfast of apple wood smoked bacon, a sliced peach and plum, a few strawberries, a couple pieces of this fine bread toasted with medium caramelized, minniola marmalade and a fine Denver omelet of mushrooms, red pepper and green onion with habanero jack cheese inside and Colby jack on the outside.

We like this bread very much but have to say we prefer the Prince George's Chacon that  a good stout for the liquid and rye sprouts.  Add in the whole grains and some aromatic seeds and the Royal Baby Chacon would be over the top.  This bread does not remind me of Prazel's Tzitzel though because it is a sourdough - and on a whole different level with the home milled flour.

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multigrain SD Starter

15

0

0

15

3.10%

75% Extraction Rye

16

24

0

40

8.26%

 25% Sifted Rye and Wheat Bran

0

0

40

40

8.26%

Whole Wheat

4

6

0

10

2.06%

Water

20

30

40

90

18.58%

Total

55

60

80

195

40.25%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rye & WW Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

98

20.12%

 

 

 

Water

98

20.12%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

20.25%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

75% Extraction Rye

125

25.80%

 

 

 

White Whole Wheat

165

34.06%

 

 

 

75% Extraction Wheat

97

20.02%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

387

79.88%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

9

1.86%

 

 

 

Water

336

69.35%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

86.82%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

485

100.00%

 

 

 

Water

434

89.47%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

89.47%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

100%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

85.08%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

963

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

Caraway 9, Coriander, Anise & Fennel 2

11

2.27%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

3.10%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.03%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

1.03%

 

 

 

Total

36

7.43%

 

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

King George V of England, Tsar Nicholas II of Russia and Wilhelm II of Germany were cousins. Their family squabbles created WW1 a war that could not be settled until the end of WW2.

  

Prince George was named after King George VI; the ‘Stuttering King’.  George VI was king during WW2 and was the father of Queen Elizabeth who took the throne in 1952, some 61 years ago.  She is the great, grand mother of the newly arrived Price George.

 

With all of this history, the design of the Prince George Chacon was not easy.  The rye flour and rye sprouts came from his German connections mainly but also from his Russian ones.  Even the Windsor name was adopted by King George the 5th in 1917 from the real German royalty of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.

 

German sounding royalty in England during WW1 was not a good thing in their royal eyes.  The English Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout used for the liquid in the dough was first presented to the Royal Imperial Court of Russia where it was a favorite.  It was also very tasty and not poisonous.   I wanted to be the official taste taster like The Prince would have.  Just trying to keep the bake in line with the royal theme.

 

I forgot to put the aromatic seeds I had ready to go so I chalk that up to Queen Elizabeth’s old age so, no seeds is a tribute to her adn my wprthless apprentice who is supposed to reminds her master of these forgottenn things.  It’s not much of a tribute but better than some funnier ones that come to mind and associated with her ancient age on the throne.

 

The chacon is a favorite shaping technique we use for special occasions and celebrations.  The corn meal and wheat are from America the home of the baker, the new home of my German apprentice and the USA was once an unruly British colony.

 

The corn meal also represents the common heritage of the Prince’s mother and our wish that the Prince show a little true grit as he grows older.   The white wheat flour represents his royal father.   At one time, white flour was used in bread that was only bound for royals.   By all accounts, Will is the real deal.  The sprouts are, of course, for the Young Royal Sprout himself.

 

 This recipe was loosely adopted from a Tzitzel recipe that Varda was working on.  For all we know, if the Windsor Royal Family had kept their German names and married  some Jewish Royalty like I did somewhere along the way, this young one might well have been name Prince Tzitzel .  His nickname could have been Tizzy!

 

Breakfast on bake day.

If he had a sister, she could have been named Elizabeth for her grandmother; the Queen, and Lizzy for short.  Oh…… what could have been!  Sadly, we won’t be seeing Tizzy and Lizzy in the royal family tree any time soon.

 

A nice salad for dinner.

We started the rye sprouts 2 days before they were needed.  The rye sour levain was a 3 stage process of 3 hours each for the first 2 stages.   When the levain had risen 25% after the 3rd feeding we refrigerated it for 48 hours.  We pulled it out of the fridge to warm up and to finish doubling.

Bake day lunch

The flours were all home milled in the Krup’s coffee mill - the perfect size for the little guy and The Prince deserves the best flour we can manage from a small coffee mill.  We used a 75% extraction again for the rye and the whole wheat but cut down the hydration from 91% last time to 85% this time.  It was a much stiffer dough but Tzitizel supposedly is a less hydrated kind of rye than the normal.

 

Saturdays breakfast - the fuel to slice the Prince's Chacon

When we pulled the levain out of the fridge we also started the autolyse by mixing the stout into the flours which included everything except the levain, salt and sprouts.  We sprinkled the salt over the autolyse ball so that we wouldn’t forget it but it wouldn’t interfere with the autolyse very much.

 

After 3 hours later we mixed the autolyse with the levain and did 10 minutes of slap and folds to get the gluten developed.  We then let the dough rest for 15 minutes before doing (3) sets of S&F’s on 20minute intervals where we incorporated the sprouts on the first one.  One set consisted of 4 stretches from the cardinal direction points and 4 folds - that’s it.

 

After a 30 minute rest on the counter the chacon was shaped in the bottom of the basket after dusting it with corn meal ala Tzitzel.  The design used was one meant to resemble Franko’s flower that he posted earlier this week.  We started with a ball in the middle and then did 4 tapered petals radiating out from it and added 4 smaller balls to fill in between the petals at the base.

 

The reminder of the dough was air shaped into a huge bialy and laid on top of the design on the bottom of the basket.  Can’t wait to see what this design will look like after baking.  After 30 minutes on the counter in a used plastic bag, into the fridge it went for a 16 hour retard.

 

If it rises to 85% overnight in the cold we will bake it cold right out of the fridge.  If not, we will let it warm up and finish proofing on the counter before loading it into the mini oven, a perfect oven for the little tot.  We used 2 of Sylvia’s steaming cups as usual for steam and we preheated to 500 F

 

In this case the bread needed a little more time to proof on the counter before hitting the oven with a splash of water going onto the bottom of the oven for a burst of additional steam.  After 2 minutes we turned the temperature down to 450 F and continued the steam for a total of 15 minutes.

 

The steam was then removed and the temperature was turned down to 425 F, convection this time.  We rotated the bread 180 degrees every 5 minutes until the bread reached 205 f on the inside when it was removed to a cooling rack.

The chacon cracked and bloomed unevenly but nicely and almost where we expected.  The bread browned well and we baked it boldly. The corn meal made for a different crust effect too.  Have to wait for the crumb shots but with the rise and lower hydration, we would expect the crumb to be a little less open than our normal for a rye bread like this one using fresh ground flours.

How did that Chinese 5 spice pork get in there?

The crumb came out like we expected and not quite as open a we wanted but it was soft and moist.  It is the best deli rye style of bread we have managed to date.  Very tasty indeed.  Next time we will up the hydration back to the 90% level to open the crumb some more,. When we take away the beer, sprouts and cornmeal and add in so caraway we think it will be very close to the Tzitzel we remember, only better. because of the home ground 75% extraction flour that just can't be bought anywhere.  This is the way bread is supposed to taste - killer with smoked meats as we will soon find out.

Time to relax with a prickly pear margarita

 

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multigrain SD Starter

10

0

0

10

2.03%

75% Extraction Rye

15

25

35

75

15.24%

Water

15

25

35

75

15.24%

Total

40

50

70

160

32.52%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rye Sour Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

80

16.26%

 

 

 

Water

80

16.26%

 

 

 

Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

15.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

75% Extraction Rye

118

23.98%

 

 

 

Corn Meal

20

4.07%

 

 

 

75% Extraction Wheat

274

55.69%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

412

83.74%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

10

2.03%

 

 

 

Imperial Stout

360

73.17%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

87.38%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

492

100.00%

 

 

 

Total Stout 360, Water 80

440

89.43%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

89.43%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

20.33%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

85.11%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

1,067

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

Red Malt

5

1.02%

 

 

 

White Malt

5

1.02%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

15

3.05%

 

 

 

Total

25

5.08%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sprouts

 

%

 

 

 

Whole Rye Berries

100

20.33%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The spout weight is the dry weight before sprouting.

 

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

After the two bakes of milling farro, whole wheat and spelt for whole grain breads that had sprouts, scalds and seeds in and on them where the milled flour was so beautiful to look at and great to work with at 90-100% hydration, we thought we would do something we rarely do…… make a white bread that had nothing in or on it!

 

My apprentice thinks I am nuts so there is nothing new there but she will need to be watched closely today as I try to finish up this bake without it being DaPumperized or something worse.  Since this wasn’t going to be a whole grain bread we were shooting for 80% hydration.

 

We have been extracting around 75% from the sieve after milling and then feeding the entire sifted out portion to the starter to make the levain.  Since we were not using the sifted out 25% portion for this bake the levain was fed the  75% white flour left over from the sift.

 

To say this was white flour is a little deceptive as it was a beautiful tan color with brown specks of bran.  It looked every bit like a rich whole wheat flour you might get from the grocery but with a more rich and deep tan color.  We milled it in the Krup’s coffee grinder as usual so the grind wasn’t as fine as other home mills might produce but the bread doesn’t seem to mind.

 

Our 80 g of 66% hydration stiff storage starter was down to 50 g after the last two Friday bakes so it was 3 weeks old in the cold.  After this bake we will feed it some of the 25% sifted bran and bits from this bake to get it back up to 80 g.

 

We did a 3 stage build as usual with our multigrain SD starter.  The first two stages were 3 hours and one hour for the 4th stage when it had risen 25% we refrigerated the levain for 24 hours to increase the sour.  When we took it out of the fridge the next day we allowed it to finish doubling - about 3 hours.

 

A nice breakfast with 2 slices of this bread and one from April 8th I pulled out of the freezer - just as good as when it went in!

The dough flour was autolysed without salt for 1 hour, less 10g of water, which was used to soften the Pink Himalayan sea salt.  After the autolyse and the levain came together we did 1 minute of slap and folds to mix and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

 Salad for dinner

We then squished the salt water through the dough with our fingers squeezing the dough.  We had started the 10 minutes of slap and folds at 75% hydration.  We thought this white bread would be like others we have made, but since the flour was fresh, we had to start adding the water.

 The peach crisp looks like the chorizo mac and cheese.

After a minute of slapping and folding we added 12g of water squishing the dough through the fingers and continued to do so every minute until the dough was a little on slack side.  We ended up at 91% hydration and the dough came together and the gluten developed well but it wasn’t at all stiff.

 

We then did 3 sets of S&F’s on 20 minute intervals to further develop the dough.  After the 3rd set, we let the dough rest and bulk ferment for 1 hour.  We then pre-shaped the dough as a batard, haven’t done one for awhile, and then did the final shape 15 minutes later.  Into our new 75 cent Goodwill basket, which was lined with a cloth and rice flour, it went.

 

It being summer, we only let it sit on the counter for 15 minutes before going into the 38 F fridge for 16 hours.  The next morning we fired up Big Old Betsy (BOB), since it was cold at 85 F and raining at 7 AM.  Plus, with the batard shape being 15” long it was 1” longer the max for the mini oven.

 

BOB was preheated to 500 F with 2 of Sylvia’s steaming pans with towels and a 12” CI skillet full of lava rocks, all half full of water, placed on the bottom rack when BOB hit 450F.  After reaching 500 F we let the oven bake away for 20 more minutes until the 2 stones, top and bottom, caught up.

 

We un-molded the bread with parchment covered peel, slashed it badly with a dull paring knife and onto the bottom stone it went for 15 minutes of steam.  I wanted to turn the oven down to 475 after 2 minutes but my apprentice forgot.  Thankfully BOB runs 25 F low so it baked with steam for 15 minutes.

The steam came out and we turned the oven down to 425 F, convection this time.  After 5 minutes we rotated the bread 180 degrees and in 5 more minutes it tested 205 F.  The bread was removed to the cooling rack after a total of 25 minutes in the oven.

 

promised my daughter Pho for lunch.- delish! One of our favorites is this chicken, pork an seafood Pho.

The bread did bloom as it spread some and it browned with some small blisters.  The mini would have done a much better job.  The 25 F too high a heat setting for 15 minutes didn’t help much.  We will have wait for the bread to cool to see how the crumb turned out.  I would expect it to be more open than the whole grain version with seeds and scald - you never know since they proofed the same volume.  As it turned out the crumb was slightly more open with some larger holes but nothing like we thought we night get.  It was glossy, soft and moist .  Had it plain, toasted and toasted with butter all were good like a fine whole wheat bread.  It is a good bread but not as good as the whole grain version with seeds, sprouts or scald.

Formula

 

Build 1

Build 2

 Build 3

Total

%

Multigrain SD Starter

15

0

0

15

3.26%

Whole Farro

5

9

18

32

6.96%

Whole Wheat

5

9

18

32

6.96%

Whole Spelt

5

9

18

32

6.96%

Water

15

27

29

71

15.45%

Total

45

54

83

182

39.61%

 

 

 

 

 

 

Multigrain SD Levain

 

%

 

 

 

Flour

104

22.52%

 

 

 

Water

79

17.08%

 

 

 

Hydration

75.85%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Levain % of Total

19.78%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dough Flour

 

%

 

 

 

Whole Spelt

119

25.90%

 

 

 

WW

119

0.00%

 

 

 

Spelt

118

25.68%

 

 

 

Dough Flour

356

77.48%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Salt

8

1.74%

 

 

 

Water

356

77.48%

 

 

 

Dough Hydration

100.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Total Flour

460

100.00%

 

 

 

Water

435

94.56%

 

 

 

T. Dough Hydration

94.56%

 

 

 

 

% Whole Grain Flour

0.00%

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hydration w/ Adds

90.99%

 

 

 

 

Total Weight

920

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Add - Ins

 

%

 

 

 

White Malt

3

0.65%

 

 

 

Red Malt

3

0.65%

 

 

 

VW Gluten

12

2.61%

 

 

 

Total

18

3.92%

 

 

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

In our quest for the ever better pizza dough, this time we went with cherry yeast water and a pinch of ADYfor the levain using durum semolina and AP for the flour.  It was built over two 4 hour stages and then mixed with the dough flour, that had been autolysed for 1 hour water, salt and water. 

We did 10 minutes of slap and folds before 3 sets of S&F's on 15 minute intervals before being retarded for 12 hours in the fridge.  We took it out of the fridge 4 hours before we wanted to bake with the 1st hour being outside in 105 F heat to make sure it warmed up fast as it only grew 30% in the fridge.

It did press out very nicely and we let it rest half way through.  Since it wasn't rolled paper tin like our normal crusts it ended up being a little thicker but since were baking this on the gas grill outside we thought a little thicker wouldn't hurt at all and we were right about that.

As is our usual, we docked the dough with a fork and brushed Mojo de Ajo over the entire crust to give it that garlic flavor. We didn't put fresh rosemary and sun dried tomato in the dough like we usually do either. 

 

We preheated the stone on the grill for 30 minutes before starting to form the first pizza crust and the grill was was at 500 F when we put the first crust on the stone to par bake for  3 minutes before it was removed to pile on the sauce and toppings.

After returning the pizza to the grill we baked them another 6 minutes rotating them on the stone after 3 minutes.  The first pizza, the one my wife built, was on the grill 2 minutes longer (8 after toppings were put on) since I figured that the stone wasn't as hot as it should be but she said the crust was too crispy for her even though the crust wasn't burned anywhere top or bottom.

The toppings included store bought mild Italian sausage and pepperoni for the meats, mozzarella and Parmesan for the cheeses, Fresh hatch green chilies and red peppers for heat and color, caramelized red onion and mushrooms, kalamata olives and green onion with fresh basil for garnish.  Not as home made or extensive as our usual but still a plentiful load when piled on.

This crust baked up very crispy with dark splotches on the bottom side.  There was not a millimeter worth of sag in the pieces once cut and not much when complete cooled.  The crunch when talking a bite was just testament to how well the crust baked up,  The semolina added a hint of sweetness with no sugar in the dough.  All in all, I give this crust an 8 out of 10,  Not the best tasting or as open and puffed up as some but it is the the best of the crispy by far.

If you like soft, thick crust,  folded over, floppy NY style pizza.... this crust is not for you.  It was stormy at he sun's setting last night and it rained hard for many hours after it set  We need the rain so badly, I will gladly give up a beautiful sun set for it.

 Formula

YW and Pinch of YeastBuild 1Build 2Total%
Pinch of ADY   0.00%
Durum Semolina25255013.33%
AP25255013.33%
Water0505013.33%
Yeast Water500013.33%
Total10010015026.67%
     
YW % of Total29.06%   
     
Dough Flour %  
Durum Semolina379.87%  
Corn Flour256.67%  
AP21356.80%  
Dough Flour27573.33%  
     
Salt82.13%  
Water19050.67%  
Dough Hydration69.09%   
     
Total Flour375100.00%  
Total Water and YW290   
T. Dough Hydration77.33%   
     
Hydration w/ Adds77.33%   
Total Weight689   
     
Add - Ins %  
Olive Oil164.27%  

 

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