I began writing this account travelling back to the UK, as follows:
Monday 21st August 2012; 14:32, UK time.
As I start to write up this blog entry, Alison and I are sitting inside a somewhat cold steel tube, high up in the sky, somewhere over France, on our return to the UK. We have just spent 2 weeks on the lovely Greek island of Paxos, enjoying a wonderful holiday together and basking in temperatures into the high 30s, with permanent daytime sunshine. We believe we will be returning to the ubiquitous showers which we left behind, and which have constantly afflicted most of the UK all Summer-long, thus far.
At this time, I fear there could be some delay to my being able to post this entry for you all to read on the Fresh Loaf. Our Broadband Router had failed on the day of Codruta’s departure and the day before we left for Greece. I expect I will have to wait a few days for BT to send out a replacement device, so we can once again re-connect with the internet. Certainly our time on Paxos has kept me away from the worldwide web. I have just about managed to keep an eye on incoming e-mail, but not been able to reply to any. The dongle provided for me by Vodafone is a complete waste of time; I had more success with my very ordinary mobile phone accessing the internet, most of the time. Ho hum!
Side note, added later: Now back home in Ananda, and the Broadband is working fine; excellent!
Still, this post is meant to be positive, indeed celebratory, so enough of the negativity. Alison and I greatly enjoyed the company of Codruta for a week of relatively intense baking…and she even brought sunny weather for us to enjoy for the first time properly since March! Here is my account of our baking activities and other matters during Codruta’s visit back at the very beginning of August.
I met Codruta at the airport late on the Monday evening, having completed all the final plans for our baking activities leading to the Powburn Show, over that weekend, then fired my oven in preparation on the Monday, as well as building leavens, sourdoughs and other pre-ferments.
I rose early on Tuesday to fire the oven once again, with Codruta joining me soon after so we could begin to mix the 3 doughs for that day’s production, and enjoy fruit and coffee for breakfast before my bakery kitchen became too overwhelmed by dough matters! The first day we made Five Grain Levains, which is a Hamelman formula, moreorless but without the addition of bakers’ yeast; some Wholemeal Bloomers and some brown tinned loaves, both of which utilise a biga. Recipes and formulae for these products are included below, although I have not included detail of the levain and sour builds:
Make the sponge the night before and leave covered to ferment.
Calculate water temperature needed for DDT of 28°C. Combine Water and Wholemeal in the mixer, then autolyse for one hour.
Add the Salt, Fresh Yeast and Sponge and mix in an upright mixer with the hook attachment for 3 minutes on first speed and 6 minutes on second speed. Scrape down as necessary during mixing.
Bulk proof, maintaining the dough temperature @ 25°C for 2 - 3 hours with S&F after 1 hour, and 2 if needed.
Scale and divide. Mould, pre-shape and final shape.
Final proof @ 25°C for 1 hour
Bake in the wood-fired oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
3. Tinned Brown Bread
Yield: 7 loaves scaled @ 600g; 1 Pullman Pan @ 1100g and 1 small loaf with the remainder
Biga
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
50
1650
Fresh Yeast
0.18
6
Water
30
990
TOTAL
80.18
2646
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
Biga [as above]
80.18
2646
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
50
1650
Salt
1.8
60
Shortening
1.8
60
Yeast
1.8
60
Water @ 23°C
38
1254
TOTAL
173.6
5730
% pre-fermented flour
50
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [85% extraction]
-
FACTOR
-
33
Method:
Mix biga with all other materials to form a strong dough: 3 minutes first speed, 5 – 6 minutes on second speed.
Bulk proof 1½ hours.
Scale and divide. Mould round and rest covered for 10 minutes.
Shape and place in ready-greased loaf tins.
Final Proof for 1 – 1½ hours.
Bake in wood-fired ovens.
Cool on wires
These are the photographs from our first two days of production. All of the photographs have been taken on Codruta’s very fine camera, by someone with far greater photography skills than I possess. I am very grateful to Codruta for giving me full access to the photographs she has taken.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDzTyngIFH0
As we worked away through our first days of production, I realised how much time Codruta devotes to social networking, sharing her baking activities and keeping up with so many other fine fellow-practitioners. Alison quickly realised that maybe, I am not quite such an obsessive as she had previously believed! Codruta posted photographs of the oven and of the breads as they emerged baked, straight on to her Facebook account. I was amazed as she told me just how many people were following our activities and contributing either by making comments on the photos, or listing them as “favourites”. The numbers kept on rising throughout the 4 days of baking too.
We managed to finish baking in good time on the first day; 27 loaves from 3 different doughs. Since 2 of these used bakers’ yeast, and the oven had benefitted from firing the day before, Alison encouraged us to get out into the sunshine and enjoy the lovely Northumberland countryside on our doorstep. We took a short drive, around 5km, to the head of the Ingram Valley to enjoy a lovely walk to Linhope Spout waterfall. The following 2 slideshows give great account of our walk.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9RfzZ7Znw8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGuger-A4Ys
The following 3 days were taken up entirely with baking. Whilst Wednesday’s production was similar in some ways to the previous day, we had 2 large batches of sour-dough based breads to make, and we had to prepare large amounts of levain, rye sourdough, biga, etc. to take to Leeds the next day. We made 29 loaves altogether, 3 different doughs, as shown below:
4. Roasted Brazil Nut and Prune Bread
Yields 8 loaves scaled @ 490g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Biga
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
400
Water
12
240
Fresh Yeast
0.2
4
TOTAL
32.2
644
2. Final Dough
Biga [from 1]
32.2
644
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
55
1100
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
25
500
Butter
5
100
Salt
1.6
32
Fresh Yeast
1.3
26
Water
56
1120
Soft Prunes
12.5
250
Brazil Nuts - toasted and chopped
12.5
250
TOTAL
201.1
4022
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
25
-
FACTOR
-
20
Method:
Prepare the Biga the night before.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer except the fruit and nuts. Mix on first speed until clear, scraping down as needed. Mix for 6 minutes on second speed with the hook attachment. Rest the dough for 20 minutes then add the fruit and nuts and mix to clear using a Scotch cutter. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment 1½ hours.
Scale and divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes then shape as bloomers. Glaze with beaten egg.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Score the tops of the loaves with 3 diagonal cuts and bake in a pre-heated deck oven at 180°C with steam for 45 - 50 minutes.
Cool on wires.
5. Sourdough Seed Bread
Yield: 8 loaves @ 700g and 3 loaves @ 1000g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
840
Water
12
504
TOTAL
32
1344
1b. Soaker
Organic Flax Seed Blond
7
294
Cold Water
21
882
TOTAL
28
1176
1c. Tamari-Roasted Seeds
Organic Sunflower Seeds
6
252
Organic Pumpkin Seeds
6
252
Organic Sesame Seeds
6
252
Organic Tamari Soy Sauce
-
-
TOTAL
18
756
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
32
1344
Soaker [from 1b]
28
1176
Tamari Roasted Seeds [from 1c]
18
756
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
1260
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
50
2100
Water
45
1890
Salt
1.79
75
TOTAL
204.79
8601
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
78 on flour
63seeds + flour
% wholegrain flour
50
-
FACTOR
-
42
Method:
Build the levain from stock. Prepare the soaker the night before. Roast the seeds ahead of time to allow them to cool before adding to the dough.
In the mixer, combine the flour with the water and soaker and mix 3 minutes on first speed, scraping down to clear. Autolyse for 1 hour.
Add the salt and levain and mix 3 minutes on first speed and 5 minutes on second speed, scraping down as needed. Add the roasted seeds and mix on first speed to clear. DDT 28°C.
Prove in bulk for 2½ hours; stretch and fold after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould.
Dissolve the molasses into the warm water. Add the sourdough, seeds and salt, and then add the flour. Use an upright mixer with hook attachment, and mix for 12 – 15 minutes on first speed only. Scrape down the bowl as needed. DDT 25°C.
Bulk ferment 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould and rest 15 minutes, covered. Re-mould dough pieces and place in prepared bannetons.
Final proof 2½ hours.
Tip out onto a dusted peel and score a diamond pattern on the top of the loaf. Bake in a wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
We made a very early start the next morning, and managed to park up at the loading bay at Leeds City College, Thomas Danby Campus at exactly 08:00, as planned, after a rapid journey over 130 miles/210km in not much over 2 hours. Codruta slept some of this time, but we also planned what we needed to do immediately on arrival to set up the secondary fermentation process for all 3 rye breads we wanted to make, by mixing scalds and sponges. After that it was a quick breakfast and into full production.
Our time at Leeds was agreed and arranged with my long-time friend and colleague, Joe Cavalier, who manages all the Bakery provision at the College. We set the 2 days up so that some of his key teaching staff were able to work alongside Codruta and I, and thus gain important CPD [professional development], with specialist dough work aplenty on offer. Over the next 2 days, we made 3 types of Rye Bread [100% rye], 3 leavened breads in bannetons [2 with Gilchesters’ flours and one with a Type 80 Farine Biologique which Codruta’s Sister-in-Law had very kindly posted to me from Paris]; AND, we made Chollah, Spicy Buns, Laminated Pastries, plus Ciabattas and Focaccias.
Day One went by like a dream, and we drove east to visit my parents, near Bridlington, for an all-too-brief, but very enjoyable and comfortable overnight stop. Day Two proved to be more challenging for a number of reasons; however, this is all part of working life within the bakery, and I wanted Codruta to experience as much as possible during her time in the UK. Codruta has a great temperament; she is relaxed, yet totally hard working and dedicated. I know her bakery will be a great success when she finds a venue and begins production; it was a joy to have her to visit us, and I truly hope she learned all she hoped to when she first asked to come over.
Here is the detail on what we produced at Leeds; and a massive thanks to Joe and his teaching colleagues for making this happen, and for all the enthusiasm and expertise given during our time at the College; very much appreciated.
7. Gilchesters’ Farmhouse/Miche
30kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
4375
Water
15
2625
TOTAL
40
7000
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
7000
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
13125
Salt
1.6
280
Water
58
10150
TOTAL
174.6
30555
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
73
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
FACTOR
175
Method:
Build leaven as schedule.
Using a Spiral Mixer, combine the Farmhouse flour and water for 3 minutes on first speed, then autolyse for 1 hour. Add leaven to Autolyse and mix for 5 minutes on first speed. Add the salt and mix a further 4 – 7 minutes on first speed. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. DDT 26°C.
Bulk proof 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes, covered, and prepare the bannetons. Re-mould dough pieces and place upside down in bannetons.
Final proof 2 – 3 hours.
Score top with an “A” and bake on the sole of a deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
8. Gilchesters’ White Levain
17kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
35
3500
Water
21
2100
TOTAL
56
5600
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1 above]
56
5600
Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour
65
6500
Salt
1.6
160
Water
47
4700
TOTAL
169.6
16960
% pre-fermented flour
35
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
-
-
FACTOR
-
100
Method:
Build leaven as described.
Combine all the final dough materials in a spiral mixer on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl and rotating as necessary. Mix a further 5 minutes on second speed to develop the dough. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould and put into bannetons. Retard overnight.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Tip each loaf out onto the peel and score the top. Bake on the sole of a deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
9. Pain de Campagne with Wheat Levain and Rye Sourdough
14kg dough scaled off as loaves of 1350g, 950g and 700g
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a Wheat Levain
60% hydration
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
28
2333
Water
16.8
1400
TOTAL
44.8
3733
1b Rye Sourdough
167% hydration
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
2
167
Water
3.3
275
TOTAL
5.3
442
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
44.8
3733
Rye Sourdough [from 1b]
5.3
442
T80 Biologique
60
5000
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse
10
833
Salt
1.5
125
Water
50
4165
TOTAL
171.6
14298
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour
11.6
-
FACTOR
-
83.3
Method:
Prepare the levains as schedule. Make an “autolyse” with final dough flour and water plus the rye sourdough
Combine wheat levain and autolyse in the mixer on first speed for 5 minutes. Add the salt, mix 2 minutes on first and 3 minutes on second speed.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale and divide; mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare large bannetons. Re-mould and set for final proof in bannetons.
Final proof 1½ hours. Pre-heat oven.
Tip onto peel, Bake in deck oven with steam.
Cool on wires.
10. Moscow Rye Bread
6 panned loaves
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
960
Water
50
1600
TOTAL
80
2560
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
13
416
Red Rye Malt
7
224
Blackstrap Molasses
1
32
Caraway Seeds
0.1
3
Boiling Water
35
1120
TOTAL
56.1
1795
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2560
“Scald” [from 1b]
56.1
1795
TOTAL
136.1
4355
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
136.1
4355
Shipton Mill Organic Light Rye Flour
50
1600
Salt
1.25
40
TOTAL
187.35
5995
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 + 50[997]
-
FACTOR
-
32
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: combine the caraway and the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 1 hour with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide, shape and place in bread pans prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off the top and attach lids.
Final proof for just 1 hour at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans, apply steam, and leave for 10 minutes. Then turn the oven down to 100°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for a total of 6 to 16 hours. Or bake in the dead wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
11. Borodinsky using the Auerman Process
6 panned loaves
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
900
Water
50
1500
TOTAL
80
2400
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
15
450
Red Rye Malt
5
150
Blackstrap Molasses
6
180
Crushed Coriander Seeds
1
30
Boiling Water
35
1050
TOTAL
62
1860
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2400
“Scald” [from 1b]
62
1860
TOTAL
142
4260
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
142
4260
Shipton Organic Light Rye Flour [997]
50
1500
Salt
1.2
36
TOTAL
193.2
5796
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [+ 50 type997]
-
FACTOR
-
30
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: crush the coriander and add it to the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours @ 35°C.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 2 hours with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide into 6. Shape and drop into Sandwich Pans, prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off and top with freshly crushed Coriander seeds, then apply lids.
Final proof for 2 hours at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans; apply steam, after 10 minutes turn the oven down to 110°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
12. Black Pumpernickel Bread
6 panned loaves
Material
Formula [% of “flour”]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Rye Sour Dough
Dark Rye Flour
30
900
Water
50
1500
TOTAL
80
2400
1b. “Altus”
Old Rye Bread
11
330
Hot Water
15
450
Blackstrap Molasses
4
120
TOTAL
30
900
1c. Soaked, Cooked Rye Berries
Whole Rye Berries
20
600
Water
20
600
TOTAL
40
1200
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2400
“Altus” [from 1b]
30
900
Soaked, Cooked Rye Berries
40
1200
TOTAL
150
4500
3. Final Paste
Sponge [from 2]
150
4500
Salt
1.6
48
Rye Flakes
25
750
Light Rye
25
750
TOTAL
201.6
6048
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain
75 [+ 25]
[Light Rye 997]
FACTOR
-
30
Method:
Build the sour according to the schedule. For the “Altus”, dissolve the molasses in the hot water, then soak the bread in the liquor overnight. Soak the whole rye grain overnight in cold water. Wash the grain through, and then simmer for 45 minutes. The cooked grain should have no residual liquid, and it should double in weight from original weighing.
To make the “sponge”, combine sourdough, Altus and cooked grains and store, covered, for 4 hours at 35°C.
To make the final paste, add salt, light rye flour and chopped rye grains to the sponge.
Bulk ferment at 32 - 35°C for 1 hour.
Scale and divide into large Pullman Pans and attach lids.
Final proof for 1 hour at 35°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pan, apply steam, and turn the oven down to 110°C. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for a total of 4½ - 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
In the end it was not possible to bake the loaves overnight. So we baked them through before going on to East Yorkshire. I am afraid I rather over baked these loaves as a result!
13. Ciabatta/Focaccia
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Biga
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
1380
Water
18
828
Fresh Yeast
0.2
9
TOTAL
48.2
2217
1b. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
3
138
Water
5
230
TOTAL
8
368
2a. Final Dough – “Bassinage”
Biga – from 1a above]
48.2
2217
Rye Sourdough – from 1b above]
8
368
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
920
Gilchesters’ Organic Ciabatta Flour
40
1840
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
4
184
Gilchesters’ Organic Coarse Semolina
3
138
Salt
1.78
82
Fresh Yeast
2.72
125
Water
43
1978
TOTAL
170.7
7852
2b Final Dough – super-hydration
Final Dough – “Bassinage”
170.78
7852
Water
19
874
TOTAL
189.78
8726
% pre-fermented flour
33
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% “wholegrain”
9
-
FACTOR
-
46
To make: 12 “Ciabatta” loaves and 2 full sheets of “Rosemary and “Rock Salt Focaccia”
14. Spicy Buns
48 buns @ 70g each
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe[grams]
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
240
Caster Sugar
5
60
Fresh Yeast
8
96
Water @ 38°C
45
540
TOTAL
78
936
2. FINAL DOUGH
Ferment [from above]
78
936
Strong White Bread Flour
80
960
Salt
1
12
Milk Powder
8
96
Butter
15
180
Egg
15
180
Caster Sugar
15
180
Cinnamon
1
12
Nutmeg
1
12
Sultanas
33
396
Raisins
17
204
Mixed Peel
17
204
TOTAL
281
3372
3. STOCK SYRUP
Caster Sugar
-
150
Water
-
150
FACTOR
-
12
Method:
Make the sponge [flying ferment]: Weigh out the water, making sure temperature is correct. Dissolve the yeast into the water. Add the flour and sugar, and whisk to a smooth batter. Cover and leave in a warm place for 45 minutes
Weigh the other ingredients: blend the flour with the other dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub roughly through the dry ingredients. Weigh the egg separately. Weigh the dried fruit separately.
Add the egg and dry ingredients to the risen sponge, and combine to form a soft and strong dough. Mix for 3 minutes on first speed and 8 minutes on second speed to develop, scraping down the bowl as necessary.
Rest the dough for 20 minutes, and then use a metal cutter to cut through the dough and add the fruit.
Rest the dough for 40 minutes. Scale and divide into 70g pieces
Mould each dough piece round, and rest covered for 15 minutes. Prepare 3 baking sheets for the oven. Pre-heat the oven [180°C, or, 160°C for a fan oven]
Re-mould dough pieces and tray-up on baking sheets lined with silicone paper [baking parchment]. Brush the tops of the dough pieces with beaten egg and cover.
Final proof in a warm environment for 1½ to 2 hours.
Bake for 15 – 20 minutes
Glaze with sugar syrup immediately after baking.
Cool on wires.
15. Chollah; 6 and 8 Strand Plaits
4 of each
MATERIAL
% OF FLOUR
GRAMS
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
800
Water @ 38°C
32
1280
Fresh Yeast
8
320
Sugar
5
200
TOTAL
65
2600
2.FINAL DOUGH
Ferment
65
2600
Strong White Bread Flour
80
3200
Milk Powder
5
200
Salt
1
40
Sugar
5
200
Butter
10
400
Eggs
28
1120
TOTAL
194
7760
Oven profile: bake in the deck oven at 175°C, top heat 6, bottom heat 5 for 28 minutes. No steam, draw the damper for the last 5 minutes
Method:
Whisk all the ingredients for the ferment together in a steel bowl.
Cover with cling film and set in a warm place for half an hour.
Mix all the ingredients, together with the ferment, in an upright machine with a hook; 2 minutes on first speed, then scrape down; 6 minutes on 3rd speed. A spiral mixer is a good alternative.
Rest, covered, for 15 minutes, then scale into 970g pieces and divide each into 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 equal sized pieces, depending on the number of strands in your plait. Try to avoid using any flour on the bench during this and subsequent stages.
Mould round, cover and rest 5 minutes.
Line trays with silicone paper. Roll out strands to 11” and plait according to instructions.
Double brush with beaten egg. Top with poppy seeds. Set to prove.
Prove 50 – 60 minutes at 35 - 40°C, 85%rH.
Bake as oven profile.
Cool on wires.
16. Croissant Dough
We made a selection of Croissants, Pain Amandes, Pain aux Chocolats and some Palmiers. We made the croissant dough on day one, and refrigerated overnight, laminating the dough to make the final products on day two.
MATERIAL
FORMULA [% OF FLOUR]
RECIPE [GRAMS]
Strong White Flour
100
2400
Salt
1.3
32
Milk Powder
5
120
Yeast
6
144
Cold Water
63
1512
SUB-TOTAL
175.3
4208
Concentrated Butter
41.7
1000
TOTAL
217
5208
Method:
Mix the ingredients for the dough to form cool, developed dough.
Put in a plastic bag in the chiller and retard overnight. Roll out the slab of butter and put back in the chiller.
Roll the dough out to a rectangle 8mm thick. Put the butter slab onto 2/3 of the rectangle, and fold in 3, letter style.
Turn the dough piece clockwise through 90°. Roll out to the same size as before, fold as above, and turn. Repeat once more.
Chill the billet for half an hour and give 2 more folds and half turns as described. This gives 168 layers of butter in the croissant dough. Chill again for half an hour.
Roll the dough piece out to 5mm and use a croissant cutter to cut out triangle shapes. Stack into piles of 6 and rest covered for 2-3 minutes.
Tease out each triangle, fold up the top edge and roll up tightly. Roll out the feet to pointed ends and move round so these feet join up to make the classic shape.
Place on silicone lined baking sheets and brush with beaten egg.
Prove at 38-40°C, 80%rH for 40 minutes.
Bake in a hot oven, 235°C for 12-15 minutes
This is a longer slideshow covering our baking activities in Leeds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVtUz_2I_jY
We hurried back up north after a completely full-on day to rendezvous with Alison plus her Sister, Beverley, and her daughter, Eve. They go to Powburn Show every year, with Eve keen to take part in a number of the competitions taking place; including the wrestling! We went to our nearest good pub, the Tankerville Arms, at Eglingham, for some great food and I enjoyed some fine local ale.
However, I had to rise very early in order to finish off all of the display work and the price list to take to the Show the next day.
The weather was perfect, in contrast to last year. It took 2 car loads to transport all the bread to the Show, and I had a customer in between deliveries, coming to visit me at home, all the way from Edinburgh.
Our next-door neighbour, Anna, has been a great supporter of the Bread and Roses venture, and she came along as a key part of the day’s sales team….I can’t thank you enough, Anna!
And, we sold a lot of bread and baked goodies on the day. To finish a very long post, here are some photographs of the stall, and the team in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8D8IT4n_crI
Thank you so much to all involved: Joe and the Leeds team, my parents, Anna, to Shuffles, Beverley and Eve. To Alison of course, for her love, and never-ending patience. And to Codruta; we so enjoyed having you to stay.
Hello from Sunny Northumberland [a pleasant but temporary change!]
I drove down to visit my brother, all too briefly, on Tuesday. He had some wood for me; a lot of wood, very dry and cut in good-sized lengths for my oven!
We filled the car up with all this wood, then he reminded me about a steam-stripper he was looking onto, which he showed me how to turn into a device to use in my bread oven. So, I brought that back to Powburn too!
Today, in surprise sunshine, I made Gilchesters' Miches, Moscow Rye Breads and Spicy Buns. A slideshow is below for you to watch. And, the oven was hot!
Tomorrow, early doors, I am driving to Nigel's house so we can spend the day baking more bread for Hexham. I am ready to make 26kg of Gilchesters' dough, plus 9kg Moscow Rye. Nigel will be making around 20kg of White dough, and the same of Linseed and Light Rye. The weather forecast is dire. Still, I am optimistic about Saturday's market. I also have some Croissants and Pain au Chocolats to tempt people with too.
Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DtPm7Nsmu0&feature=youtu.be
Happy Baking!
Andy
ps. And some crumbshots of the Gilchesters' Miche; so tasty from the heat of the oven!
Given my flour delivery was put back a week, and the weather has done nothing except rain here in the UK, seemingly incessantly, and forever, my baking schedule has been somewhat interfered with.
So, here are a few loaves I've baked recently. The Gilchesters' loaves were made today, and I will repeat again tomorrow as I dive into a dissertation on UK Organic Wheat, and prepare for a trip to Dunbar in Southern Scotland to introduce a training programme at a great local Bakery Co-operative
Borodinsky using the Auerman Process
Rye Sour build:
Day/Date
Time
Stock
D Rye
Water
TOTAL
Temp °C
Weds 13th June
20:00
40
300
500
840
30
Saturday 16th June
18:30
840
450
750
2040
30
Final Paste:
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
750
Water
50
1250
TOTAL
80
2000
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
15
375
Red Rye Malt
5
125
Blackstrap Molasses
6
150
Crushed Coriander Seeds
1
25
Boiling Water
35
875
TOTAL
62
1550
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
2000
“Scald” [from 1b]
62
1550
TOTAL
142
3550
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
142
3550
Shipton Organic Light Rye Flour [997]
50
1250
Salt
1.2
30
TOTAL
193.2
4830
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain flour
50 [+ 50 type997]
-
FACTOR
-
25
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: crush the coriander and add it to the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours @ 35°C.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 2 hours with DDT at 28°C.
Scale and divide into 5. Shape and drop into 5 Sandwich Pans, prepared with lining of shortening and coating of rye flour. Smooth off and top with freshly crushed Coriander seeds, then apply lids.
Final proof for 2 hours at 28°C, then bake.
Pre-heat the oven to 280°C. Load the pans, apply steam, after 10 minutes turn the oven down to 110°C, and move to Convection setting. Keep a supply of steam in the oven and bake for 6 hours.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
This is a video demonstrating how best to scale these loaves, and shape them for the pans. In years gone by at Village Bakery, a team of 2 bakers would produce 2 x 150kg batches of this type of Rye paste and scale it off in this way.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer except the fruit and nuts. Mix on first speed until clear, scraping down as needed. Mix for 6 minutes on second speed with the hook attachment. Rest the dough for 20 minutes then add the fruit and nuts and mix to clear using a Scotch cutter. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment 1½ hours.
Scale and divide into 3 x 1kg pieces; mould round. Rest 15 minutes then shape as bloomers. Glaze with beaten egg.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Score the tops of the loaves with 4 diagonal cuts and bake in a pre-heated electric oven at 170°C with convection for 55 minutes.
Cool on wires.
Both the Borodinsky and the Toasted Brazil Nut and Prune Breads were lovely. My apologies, the photographs don't really tell the best story. It seems to be permanently dark in our house at the moment...and it was our longest day very recently too!!
Gilchesters’ Miche
Makes 2 loaves @ 1350g
Levain build:
Day
Time
Stock Levain
White Flour
Water
Total
Temp °C
Saturday 23rd June
21:30
40
400
240
680
18
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
400
Water
15
240
TOTAL
40
640
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
640
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
1200
Salt
1.6
24
Water
58
928
TOTAL
174.6
2792
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
73
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
FACTOR
-
16
Method:
Build leaven as schedule.
Mix Farmhouse flour and water for 3 minutes on first speed, then autolyse for 1 hour. Add leaven to Autolyse and mix for 5 minutes on first speed. Add the salt and mix a further 4 – 7 minutes on first speed. Scrape down the bowl as necessary. DDT 24°C.
Bulk proof 3 hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes, covered, and prepare the bannetons. Re-mould dough pieces and place upside down in bannetons.
Final proof 2 – 3 hours.
Score top with an “A” and bake in a pre-heated electric oven at 250°C with steam for 10 minutes. Switch to convection, drop the heat to 200°C and bake a further 30 minutes. Drop the heat to 160°C and bake out 12 - 15 minutes.
Cool on wires.
Crumb shots!
This all leaves me with a good bit of baking to do next week as the Alnwick Farmers' Market takes place on Friday. After that, it's Hexham on Saturday week.
The Summer looks busy; Alnwick Farmers' Market end of July; Powburn Show early August, more on this soon; holiday on Paxos for 2 weeks; August Farmers' Market; Bank Holiday party for friend's 50th. Then in September it's Alnwick Food Festival, where I'm doing a presentation and taking a stall along with my colleague Ann from Doughworks [ http://www.doughworks.co.uk/ ]
Alnwick Farmers’ Market; Bread and Roses, May 2012 The sun has been shining in the UK this week, and, finally it is warm here; not before time! Yesterday and today’s baking have produced some very tasty breads plus other treats too [croissants, pain au chocolats, pain amandes and spicy buns]! I laid out my produce this evening and came up with 70 loaves plus the aforementioned treats. There are Gilchesters’ breads made with local flour plus levain, seeded breads and 5 grain breads with levain, an assortment of rye such as Seigle d’Auvergne, Pain de Siègle de Thézac, Moscow Rye and Black Pumpernickel, plus yeasted varieties, wholemeal bloomers, brown tin loaves and chollah I have already posted formulae for all these breads. But, here is a slideshow to summarise the last 2 days, working away at my home, “Ananda” in Powburn, Northumberland. See:
A lot to write about, I suppose, given I have not managed to post a blog entry for almost nine weeks, mainly because I have been so busy, and tied up with so many baking-related activities.
The March Farmers’ Market in Alnwick was a big success; the sun shone all day long, and my stall caught everybody’s attention as it was facing straight at the towns’ shoppers on entry to the Market Square. I sold out of bread in just over 2 hours.
Alison and I took the long drive to NW Scotland the next day after the Market, for a week’s holiday. The beautiful weather we had enjoyed for most of March was breaking, so our time in Sutherland brought snow, wind and sleet, as well as sunshine. Our holiday cottage had an old-fashioned stove with an endless supply of fuel to burn. The kitchen had some wonderful “le Creuset” pans, so I decided to experiment with the Dutch oven methods of baking oft mentioned on TFL.
I had taken my Rye Sourdough culture plus Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye and Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal. I baked twice through the week, and made the same loaf each time, naming it “Rye and Wholewheat Holiday Bread”, with an “H” cut into the top. Here are the essential details:
Rye and Wholewheat Holiday Bread
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Rye Sourdough
Stock
40
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
150
Water
50
250
TOTAL
80
440
Returned to stock
40
2. Final Dough
Rye Sourdough [from 1]
80
400
Marriages Organic Strong Wholemeal
70
350
Salt
1.6
8
Water
35
175
TOTAL
186.6
933
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
85
-
% wholegrain
100
-
FACTOR
-
5
Method:
Build the sourdough to the required quantity. I used 2 refreshments over 36 hours.
Mix sourdough with water and flour; cover and autolyse 50 minutes.
Add salt and develop by mixing by hand for 10 minutes.
Bulk proof for 2 hours; S&F after one hour
Pre-shape, then prepare a banneton. Final shape.
Final Proof for one hour.
Pre-heat Electric fan oven containing Le Creuset Roasting pot and lid for one hour to 240°C. Also set a pan of hot stones in the bottom of the oven prior to pre-heating.
Flour the base of the hot Le Creuset pot and tip the proved loaf gently into the pot. Flour the top if needed, then score an “H” for holiday into the top. Load the lidded pot to the oven and apply steam. Turn the heat to 200°C after 15 minutes. Take the lid off after another 15 minutes and bake out for another 10 – 15 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave the loaf inside for 10 minutes with the door wedged ajar.
Cool on wires.
What was special? This is a 100% wholegrain loaf, with 85% hydration. Our sandwiches, enjoyed out “in the hills” were joyful. Here is a brief reminder of an amazing part of the world which we both love so much.
I revised my Hot Cross Bun recipe, finally giving in and cutting down on the liquid content, which was excessive. Freshly ground spices; they are divine! Formula:
HOT CROSS/SPICY BUNS
Makes 36 buns @ 70g
Material
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe[grams]
1. FERMENT
Strong White Bread Flour
20
180
Caster Sugar
5
45
Fresh Yeast
8
72
Water @ 38°C
45
405
TOTAL
78
702
2. FINAL DOUGH
Ferment [from above]
78
702
Strong White Bread Flour
80
720
Salt
1
9
Milk Powder
8
72
Butter
15
135
Egg
15
135
Caster Sugar
15
135
Cinnamon
1
9
Nutmeg
1
9
Sultanas
33
297
Raisins
17
153
Mixed Peel
17
153
TOTAL
281
2529
3. CROSSING PASTE
White Flour
150
Shortening
35
Water
200
4. STOCK SYRUP
Caster Sugar
150
Water
150
FACTOR
9
Method:
Make the sponge [flying ferment]: Weigh out the water, making sure temperature is correct. Dissolve the yeast into the water. Add the flour and sugar, and whisk to a smooth batter. Cover and leave in a warm place for 45 minutes
Weigh the other ingredients: blend the flour with the other dry ingredients. Cut the butter into small pieces and rub roughly through the dry ingredients. Weigh the egg separately. Weigh the dried fruit separately.
Add the egg and dry ingredients to the risen sponge, and combine to form a soft and strong dough. Mix for 3 minutes on first speed and 8 minutes on second speed to develop, scraping down the bowl as necessary.
Rest the dough for 20 minutes, then use a metal cutter to cut through the dough and add the fruit.
Rest the dough for 40 minutes. Scale and divide into 70g pieces
Mould each dough piece round, and rest covered for 15 minutes. Prepare 3 baking sheets for the oven. Pre-heat the oven [180°C, or, 160°C for a fan oven]
Re-mould dough pieces and tray-up 4 x 3 on baking sheets lined with silicone paper [baking parchment]. Brush the tops of the dough pieces with beaten egg and cover.
Final proof in a warm environment for 1½ to 2 hours.
Pipe on crosses for HotXBuns.
Bake for 15 – 20 minutes
Glaze with sugar syrup immediately after baking
Cool on wires
The April Farmers’ Market was equally successful; I took record takings, and had one loaf left to give to my business adviser who I was able to meet up with after the market closed to discuss a potentially very exciting new business opportunity currently being explored.
Early in May we set out on a new Farmers’ Market adventure with a partnership with an old friend and business colleague who has built a fabulous wood-fired oven in his garden in Ryton, on the edge of the very lovely Tyne Valley. I have posted on this before, here: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/27794/development-day-work-nigel-13th-march-2012
My friend Nigel is making some White Levain breads and some Golden Linseed and Light Rye breads. I am making Moscow Rye and Gilchesters’ Miche, which I have posted on before…a number of times. We made just short of 100 loaves. Moving forward our aim is to make 150 loaves. Hexham is a lovely, historic town in the west of Northumberland, and trade at the Farmers’ Market is brisk…weather permitting!! We enjoyed sunshine and had sold out by lunchtime. Very good vibes!
Now I am building up stock ready for the next Alnwick Farmers’ Market on Friday. I’ve made Moscow Rye and some Black Pumpernickel breads in pans to keep the non-wheat people happy, as well as plenty of Gilchesters’ type breads. Today I spent some time perfecting a Pain de Campagne recipe using 2 leavens. I have posted similar before, but here are the details:
20th May 2012
Pain de Campagne with Rye Sourdough and Wheat Levain
Rye Sour Refreshment:
Day/date
Time
Sour [g]
Dark Rye [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
Temp °C
Sat 19 May
15:00
40
200
120
360
28°C
Wheat Levain Refreshment:
Day/Date
Time
Levain
Bread Flour
Water
Total
Temp °C
Sat 19 May
15:00
40
160
96
296
22°C
Sat 19 May
18:00
296
200
120
616
22°C
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a Wheat Levain
60% hydration
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
22.5
360
Water
13.5
216
TOTAL
36
576
1b Rye Sourdough
167% hydration
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
7.5
120
Water
12.5
200
TOTAL
20
320
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
36
576
Rye Sourdough [from 1b]
20
320
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
50
800
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
20
320
Salt
1.5
24
Water
43
688
TOTAL
170.5
2728
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour
27.5
-
FACTOR
-
16
Method:
Prepare the levains as schedule. Make a cold “autolyse” with final dough flour and water plus the rye sourdough. Chill the autolyse and the wheat levain overnight.
Combine wheat levain and autolyse in the mixer on first speed for 5 minutes. Add the salt, mix 2 minutes on first and 3 minutes on second speed.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours; S&F after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale and divide [2 @ 1400g]; mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare 2 large bannetons. Re-mould and set for final proof in bannetons.
Final proof 1½ hours. Pre-heat oven.
Tip onto peel, cut the top of the loaf and mist with water spray; set on stone in the oven. Apply steam. Set into oven at 280°C, no fan. Set heat to 250°C. Mist loaf after 10 minutes and top up steam if needed. After another 10 minutes, switch to convection and drop heat to 200°C for 20 minutes. Drop heat to 180°C and bake out a further 10 – 15 minutes.
And last week a local cookery writer came to visit and do a day of baking with me. Her enthusiasm was infectious, and I tested both the wood-fired oven and electric oven to the limit, making Seigle d’Auvergne, Gilchesters’ White loaves, Wholemeal Bloomers, Moscow Rye panned loaves and Spicy Buns [as a featured recipe]. Busy day! For more on Jane Lovett, see here: http://www.janelovett.com/
Honestly, there is a lot more than this going on just now, and it is making it impossible for me to post as much as I have done in the past. My apologies for that. Still, I promise to keep everyone up to speed on the Bread and Roses baking ventures, somehow or other.
Oh! Alison’s booked our holidays too: we are off to Paxos in August for 2 weeks. It’s the Powburn Show just before we go, and Alnwick Farmers’ Market shortly after we return! Then it’s the Food Festival in Alnwick in September and I have a Guest Speaker slot. Hopefully, I will have completed my Dissertation too and be looking forward to a trip to London to celebrate being awarded a Master’s Degree. That is sometime away, and a lot will happen in between times.
This is very much my own formula adaptation, but it takes its inspiration from Daniel Leader’s lovely book “Local Breads: Sourdough and Whole-grain Recipes from Europe’s Best Artisan Bakers”, see pp. 158 – 161. Leader credits Armandio Pimenta, who has a bakery in Clermont-Ferrand, Auvergne, as the source for his formula. My effort does not use the same refreshment regime, nor does it rely on hot water at the mixing stage. Leader has a photograph of his loaf in the plates between pages 84 and 85 of my edition; the loaves I baked compare well, although I made 2 Miche, scaled at just over 1700g, where Leader’s recipe produces 1 loaf, slightly smaller at 1195g.
Here is the detail:
Rye Sour Refreshment
Day
Date
Sour [g]
Dark Rye [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
Thursday 22nd March
20:30
40
150
250
440
Friday 23rd March
18:30
440
300
500
1240
Final Dough
I made this on the Saturday morning, beginning the mixing at 06:00
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
22.5
450
Water
37.5
750
TOTAL
60
1200
2. Final Dough
Rye Sourdough [from 1.]
60
1200
Shipton Organic Light Rye [997]
50
1000
Marriage’s Organic Strong Flour
27.5
550
Salt
1.6
32
Water
35
700
TOTAL
174.1
3482
% pre-fermented flour
22.5
-
% overall hydration
72.5
-
% wholegrain flour
22.5
plus 50% @ 0.997 ash
FACTOR
20
-
Method:
Mix the sourdough, water and flours using a hook attachment, for 4 minutes on first speed, scraping down the bowl as needed. Autolyse for half an hour. Add the salt and mix 1 minute on first speed and 5 minutes on second speed, scraping down the bowl as required. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours.
Scale the paste using wet hands into 2 pieces and shape round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare 2 bannetons dusted generously with dark rye flour. Re-shape the dough pieces and place smooth-side up into the bannetons.
Final proof 1 hour.
For baking, pre-heat the oven to 280°C for one hour. Tip the loaf directly onto the hearth stone, apply steam and bake without the fan for 15 minutes at 250°C. Drop the heat to 200°C, switch to convection and bake out for 50 minutes.
Cool on wires
This is the dough at the end of bulk proof:
Finished Loaf, Crust and Crumb Shots:
We enjoyed one of these loaves with our dinner with friends last night. The depth of flavour from the sourdough was intense; it was an accompaniment to avocado, served with the biggest prawns I have ever seen. Munching on more of this bread with a salad for lunch today and I noted the sour flavour was much less pronounced, allowing more subtle flavours to come through; much improved to my taste. The crumb is moist, but not overly so, and wonderfully easy to chew on.
The first loaf stood up tall in the oven, even though the formula uses over 72% rye flour. I used Organic white bread flour at 11.6% protein, not High Gluten flour. I should have delayed shaping the second loaf, as the long bake time meant this loaf was over-proved when it came to bake. I’ve photographed the best-looking loaf, although the crumb shots come from the over-proved one.
We love this bread; such an eating treat for us for the rest of the week. The Market beckons; this means I have plenty of baking to do this week.
David ended up asking me what bakers do to procrastinate and put off what they really should be doing [ie. making bread, of course!] Well, here is my answer, provided in the best way I can think of, including a visit to a medieval bakehouse!
Whilst I hanker for mountains, Alison is very much a sea lover. Yesterday we did some shopping and cleaning after enjoying a lie-in. Today we went to the seaside! Not just any old seaside, of course; this happens to be a place Alison thinks is as lovely as anywhere else in the world. On days like today it is very difficult to argue with that. And it’s an island, less than one hour’s drive from where we live! And it was cut off today from 09:50 until 14:05. We had the place virtually to ourselves.
First of all we went to the Lindisfarne Musuem, then to the Priory. This is the first time I’ve been to these places since visiting them on a School trip as an “A” Level History student some 29 years ago! To give some context, the old Kingdom of Northumbria was the last of the old Kingdoms of what became England to hold on to Celtic Christianity instead of switching allegiance to Rome. The Synod of Whitby in 664 AD became the last chance saloon as the Northumbrian king gave way. All of this has been famously documented by Bede of Jarrow, and the centre of the Lindisfarne story of this time is the work of St. Cuthbert who eventually became a somewhat reluctant Bishop of Durham.
So, the Priory. Here is a lovely photograph. It is fantastically preserved really, given some parts date to the 10th Century.
From the 15th Century part of the Priory, we found this:
And this is the oven!
After an early lunch next to the sea and close to the Castle, we set off for a walk taking in the north-eastern tip of the island; truly stunning coastal scenery.
As we looked back to the Cheviots, from whence we had come, all was a little cloudy.
Meantime we basked in sunshine, taking in views of both Lindisfarne Castle
and Bamburgh Castle.
Onto the beach; this is typical of the Dunes which are such a feature of the fabulous Northumberland Coast, along with the Castles, of course.
At the end of the time spent on the beaches we found a hut which we believe to be a Shrine, which touched us both considerably. This beach stone structure seems to have been recently been erected by a couple as monument to the baby they tragically lost. Apparently the Planning Authority are none too happy about it; how typical, have they no heart or soul?
Well it’s back to more serious work tomorrow, early doors, with 2 days to complete the next assignment for my MSc and Alison back to the grindstone managing education provision for those around Northumberland not currently in school, for one reason or another.
Bread from my wood-fired brick oven, made 15th/16th March 2012
1. Caraway Rye with Blackstrap Molasses
I haven't made this in a while, but returned to it when contemplating doing a Pain de Siegle de Thezac, and remembering I had plenty Molasses and Caraway Seeds in stock.
Rye Sour Refreshment:
Day/Date
Time
Sour
Rye Flour
Water
Total
Weds 14.03
07:40
40
150
250
440
Weds 14.03
19:00
440
174
290
904
Materials/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
25
324
Water
41
540
TOTAL
66
864
2. Final Dough
Rye Sour [from above]
66
864
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
75
1000
Salt
1.8
24
Caraway Seeds
1.8
24
Black Strap Molasses
8
107
Water @ 40°C
26
343
TOTAL
178.6
2362
% Pre-fermented flour
25
-
% Overall hydration
64.8
-
% Wholegrain flour
25
-
FACTOR
13.2
-
Method:
Build the sourdough as above.
Dissolve the molasses into the warm water. Add the sourdough, seeds and salt, then add the flour. Attach a dough hook and mix on first speed for 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl as needed. Leave to rest for 10 minutes. Mix for 2 minutes on first speed and 3 minutes on second speed, again, scraping down the bowl as needed. Rest a further 10 minutes. Mix 3 more minutes on second speed. DDT 25°C.
Bulk ferment 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould as 2 large loaves. Re-mould dough pieces and place in prepared bannetons.
Final proof 2½ hours.
Tip out onto a dusted peel and score a diamond pattern on the top of the loaf. Bake in a wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
2. Gilchesters’ Miche
More Gilchesters breads for the market!
Levain Refreshment
Day/Date
Time
Levain
Bread Flour
Water
Total
Weds 14.03
07:40
40
100
60
200
Weds 14.03
12:00
200
200
120
520
Weds 14.03
19:00
520
200
120
840
Weds 14.03
23:00
840
300
180
1320
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
750
Water
15
450
TOTAL
40
1200
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
1200
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
2250
Salt
1.75
52
Water
58
1740
TOTAL
174.75
5242
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
73
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
FACTOR
30
-
Method:
Combine Farmhouse Flour and water in a mixer until clear. Autolyse for one hour.
Add Levain and mix in speed one with the hook attachment for 8 minutes. Add the salt and mix on first speed a further 7 minutes. DDT 26°C.
Bulk Proof Times 2½ hours. S&F at 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes. Prepare Bannetons. Re-mould.
Final proof 2½ to 3 hours.
Score tops and bake in wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
Wheat Levain Refreshment:
Day/Date
Time
Levain
Bread Flour
Water
Total
Thursday 15th March
12:15
120
200
120
440
Thursday 15th March
18:00
440
200
120
760
Thursday 15th March
22:45
760
1025
615
2400
3. Pain de Campagne
I wanted to use up the last of the T55 Farine de Ble which my brother brought back for me from the Loire at the end of January, and to make something more robust with it. Two big loaves!
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
450
Water
15
270
TOTAL
40
720
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
720
T55 French Flour
50
900
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
20
360
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
5
90
Salt
1.67
30
Water
54
972
TOTAL
170.67
3072
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
% overall hydration
69
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
25
-
FACTOR
18
-
Method:
Build the leaven according to the schedule above.
Combine all the final dough materials in a mixing bowl and mix on first speed using a hook attachment for 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl. Rest for 5 minutes. Mix a further 5 minutes on first speed, scraping down as needed. Rest another 5 minutes. Mix on second speed for 4 minutes, again, scraping down the bowl as needed. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours, S&F after each hour.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould and put into bannetons.
Final proof 2 to 2½ hours.
Tip each loaf out onto the peel and score the top. Bake in a wood-fired brick oven.
Cool on wires.
4. White Bread – Gilchesters’ Style ie. not very white
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
35
1000
Water
21
600
TOTAL
56
1600
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from 1 above]
56
1600
Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza/Ciabatta Flour
65
1857
Salt
1.75
50
Water
47
1343
TOTAL
169.75
4850
% pre-fermented flour
35
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
-
-
FACTOR
28.57
-
Method:
Build leaven as described.
Combine all the final dough materials in a mixing bowl and mix on first speed using a hook attachment for 3 minutes, scraping down the bowl. Rest for 5 minutes. Mix a further 5 minutes on first speed, scraping down as needed. Rest another 5 minutes. Mix on second speed for 4 minutes, again, scraping down the bowl as needed. DDT 26°C.
Bulk ferment for 2½ hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould and put into bannetons.
Final proof 2 to 2½ hours.
Tip each loaf out onto the peel and score the top. Bake in a wood-fired brick oven.
Cool on wires.
All four varieties have turned out well; the oven is firing well at the moment and the milder weather has really helped proof times too.
Alnwick Farmers’ Market is very late this month. But I’m ahead of schedule as my freezer is now just about full, and there is a broad selection of bread made; mostly naturally leavened items too. I’ll be on the hunt for fresh yeast very soon now so I can make Hot Cross Buns for the stall as it will be so close to Easter!
My friend Nigel came to meet me at Newcastle’s Central Station on Tuesday morning, early enough for us to get a full day of baking done. I had arrived on the train, lugging a huge hold-all full of sourdoughs, leavens and various bits of baking kit, flour, etc. Nigel had fired his oven the evening before, and a new fire was roaring in it when we arrived at his house ready to start.
We reviewed my choice of recipes, looked over samples I had brought and then mixed these 2 doughs straightaway. After that we talked through Nigel’s ideas and constructed recipes for him to work with. Before he got started on these, we made a Ciabatta dough to turn into focaccia for our lunch.
The day progressed very well indeed. We did all the preparation up in his kitchen using a 20 quart Hobart machine with the additional luxury of a 10 quart bowl being very useful to keep the mixing going. All the doughs were given around 2 hours of bulk ferment before shaping and placing in bannetons. By this time the sun had come out and the oven had been cleaned and shut down too. This meant the sealed area around the oven was lovely and warm. We took all the filled bannetons down on boards and set onto racks covered with a polythene sheet with a pan of water on a gas burner for steady moisture supply. Everything was ready to bake in under 2 hours. We managed to fit all the loaves into the oven on the one bake, with the temperature readings all sitting solidly around 250°C.
I had taken a Gilchesters’ Miche as a sample; this is photographed here.
For the development day I made more Gilchesters’ Miches plus some panned Moscow Rye. So I had arrived at Nigel’s house with ripe wheat levain, plus the “sponge” constructed from rye sourdough and scald which is the basis of the Moscow Rye.
Details of Nigel’s bread choices are shown below.
Hastily we made contact with the Manager of Hexham Farmers’ Market. We had to arrange to drop samples off with him ready for his Directors’ Meeting taking place this evening [Weds 14th March]. We wrapped up and labelled a selection of the best loaves, printed out the attached product information sheet and loaded them all into a nice, lined basket. Nigel delivered the loaves. Alison came to meet me after she finished work, and I drove us back home to Northumberland.
Well, this was great fun, and both of us were very happy at the quality of bread we produced. So now we wait to see if our authentic Artisan Bread is wanted at Hexham Farmers’ Market; we shall see!
Details of all products shown below
Refreshment Details:
A] Rye Sourdough
Date
Time
Temp °C
Stock [g]
D Rye [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
11.03.2012
08:45
33
40
150
250
440
12.03.2012
06:30
26
440
450
750
1640
B] Wheat Levain
Date
Time
Temp °C
Stock [g]
Flour [g]
Water [g]
TOTAL [g]
11.03.2012
09:15
18
40
200
120
360
11.03.2012
19:00
22
360
400
240
1000
REFRIDGERATE OVERNIGHT; I then used 960g to make first batch of Gilchesters' Miche, and refreshed the remainder as follows:
12.03.2012
06:15
20
40
200
120
360
12.03.2012
18:00
18
360
300
180
840
12.03.2012
21:00
18
840
325
195
1360
13.03.2012
05:30
26
1360
300
180
1840
1. Gilchesters’ Miche
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe 1 [grams]
Recipe 2 [grams]
1. Wheat Levain
12.03.2012
13.03.2012
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
25
600
600
Water
15
360
360
TOTAL
40
960
960
2. Final Dough
Wheat Levain [from above]
40
960
960
Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse Flour
75
1800
1800
Salt
1.75
42
42
Water
58
1392
1392
TOTAL
174.75
4194
4194
% pre-fermented flour
25
-
-
% overall hydration
73
-
-
% wholegrain flour [approx 85% extraction]
75
-
-
FACTOR
24
-
-
Method:
Combine Farmhouse Flour and water in a mixer until clear. Autolyse for one hour.
Add Levain and mix in speed one with the hook attachment for 8 minutes. Add the salt and mix on first speed a further 7 minutes. DDT 26°C.
Bulk Proof Times 2½ hours. S&F at 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould. Rest 15 minutes. Prepare Bannetons. Re-mould.
Final proof 2½ to 3 hours.
Score tops and bake in wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
2. Moscow Rye Bread
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a] Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
30
600
Water
50
1000
TOTAL
80
1600
1b] “Scald”
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
13
260
Red Rye Malt
7
140
Blackstrap Molasses
1
20
Caraway Seeds
0.1
2
Boiling Water
35
700
TOTAL
56.1
1122
2. “Sponge”
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
80
1600
“Scald” [from 1b]
56.1
1122
TOTAL
136.1
2722
3. Final Paste
“Sponge” [from 2]
136.1
2722
Shipton Mill Organic Light Rye Flour
50
1000
Salt
1.2
24
Water
11
220
TOTAL
198.3
3966
% pre-fermented flour
30 + 20 = 50
-
% overall hydration
96
-
% wholegrain flour
50 + 50[997]
-
FACTOR
20
-
Method:
Build the sourdough as described above. Make the “scald” as follows: combine the caraway and the red rye malt and dark rye flour. Weigh the molasses into a pan, add water and bring to a rolling boil. Tip this onto the flour mix, and add any extra boiling water if there is evaporation. Stir well to ensure full gelatinisation. Cover and cool.
Once sufficiently cool, add the scald to the sour to make the sponge. Cover and leave to ferment for 4 hours.
For the final paste combine the sponge with remaining flour and the salt, mix with the paddle beater in an upright machine, 2 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. Add water if needed [Previously, I added 220g which is 11% on flour]. Scrape down the bowl to ensure thorough mixing.
Bulk proof for 1 hour with DDT at 28°C.
Shape into a large Pullman Pan, plus a large and small bread pan prepared with lining of butter and coating of rye flour. Smooth off the top.
Final proof for just 1 hour at 28°C, then bake.
Bake with lids on the bread pans for 3 hours in the wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires; wrap in linen and leave 24 hours before cutting into the bread.
3. Ciabatta Dough for Focaccia
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Biga
Gilchesters’ Ciabatta Flour
30
600
Dried Yeast
0.2
4
Water
18
360
TOTAL
48.2
964
2a. Final Dough –Bassinage
Biga [from 1 above]
48.2
964
Gilchesters’ Ciabatta Flour
70
1400
Salt
1.8
36
Dried Yeast
1
20
Water
50
1000
TOTAL
171
3420
2b. Final Dough – Wet
Bassinage
171
3420
Water
17
340
TOTAL
188
3760
% pre-fermented flour
30
-
% overall hydration
85
-
FACTOR
20
-
Method:
Make the Biga and ferment overnight.
Combine Biga with all other ingredients for 2a. Mix on first speed for 2 minutes and second speed for 6 minutes with a hook attachment. Scrape down as needed.
Add the remaining water, attach a paddle beater and let the dough down slowly.
Ferment in bulk for 2½ hours with S&F each half hour; wet stage.
Scale, divide and shape; dry stage.
Final Proof
Bake.
Cool on wires
Nigel Wild and Andy Smith’s Artisan Bread Samples
For Hexham Farmers’ Market Directors
1. Gilchesters’ Miche
A Miche means a large loaf, and this bread takes its inspiration from the famous French baker, Lionel Poilâne and his own signature Miche.
It is made with a natural levain using Organic white bread flour. The rest of the flour used is Gilchesters’ Organic Farmhouse flour which is a high extraction flour, typical of the type used by M. Poilâne.
2. Gilchesters’ Farmhouse
These boules are made in a similar style to the Miche described above.
3. Gilchesters’ White
Made with a white levain using Organic unbleached flour plus Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza flour in the final dough.
4. White Boules
Lovely crispy crust in a flavoursome loaf made with a natural levain and Organic unbleached flour.
5. Rye Cob
Distinctly tangy loaf made with a wheat levain and using Gilchesters’ Organic Pizza and Farmhouse flours and our favourite Organic Dark Rye flour from Bacheldre Watermill in Wales.
6. Moscow Rye
One of the GOST Standard loaves as laid down in Soviet times, alongside the more famous Borodinsky and Rossisky loaves. It uses Rye Sourdough which is mixed with a “scald” of rye flour, rye malt, molasses and caraway seeds to form a “sponge”. The 3 stage process is known today as the Auerman process, but is thought to have originally been invented by the chemist, Borodin. This loaf uses only rye flour; it is “wheat-free”.
All flour used is Certified Organic. All bread is leavened using wild yeast/bacterial cultures, with no added Bakers’ Yeast. All bread baked in wood-fired brick ovens. Gilchesters' Farm is only a few miles from Hexham; as local as it possibly can be.
And more photographs of me enoying working on the oven!
The sunshine returned to Northumberland today, allowing me to enjoy myself firing the oven and baking these different breads.
The sourdough seed bread takes inspiration from the Hamelman formula, but uses a stiff levain, very different leavening procedure and flour combination. The flavour from the tamari-roasted seeds is intense.
I made the Leinsamenbrot in bread pans, although this is probably not authentic. I used my liquid rye sourdough plus a flax seed soaker with 3 times water to seeds. So the hydration in the formula is very high; intentionally so. I'm pleased with the final result at 40% rye, 60% white flour.
The Roasted Almond and Raisin Breads have a biga pre-ferment and I finished off my current supply of fresh yeast in the final dough. There is butter in the formula, but no sugar, or spice. They baked beautifully in the brick oven too!
Recipe/formulae details given below, plus photographs.
1. Sourdough Seed Bread
Levain Build:
Day
Time
Stock
Flour
Water
TOTAL
Sunday
10:30
40
250
150
440
Sunday
15:30
440
250
150
840
Sunday
23:00
840
300
180
1320
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Wheat Levain
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
800
Water
12
480
TOTAL
32
1280
1b. Soaker
Flax Seed Blond
7
280
Cold Water
21
840
TOTAL
28
1120
1c. Tamari-Roasted Seeds
Organic Sunflower Seeds
6
240
Organic Pumpkin Seeds
6
240
Organic Sesame Seeds
6
240
Organic Tamari Soy Sauce
-
-
TOTAL
18
720
2. Final Dough
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
50
2000
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
30
1200
Water
45
1800
Soaker [from 1b]
28
1120
Salt
1.8
72
Wheat Levain [from 1a]
32
1280
Tamari Roasted Seeds [from 1c]
18
720
TOTAL
204.8
8192
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
78 on flour
63seeds + flour
% wholegrain flour
50
-
FACTOR
40
-
Method:
Build the levain as shown. Prepare the soaker the night before. Roast the seeds ahead of time to allow them to cool before adding to the dough.
In the mixer, combine the flour with the water and soaker and mix 3 minutes on first speed, scraping down to clear. Autolyse for 1 hour.
Add the salt and levain and mix 2 minutes on first speed and 6 minutes on second speed, scraping down as needed. Add the roasted seeds and mix on first speed to clear. DDT 28°C.
Prove in bulk for 2½ hours; stretch and fold after 1 and 2 hours.
Scale, divide and mould round. Rest 15 minutes and prepare bannetons. Re-mould.
Final proof 3 hours
Bake in the wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
2. Leinsamen Bröt
Rye Sourdough Build
Day
Time
Stock
Flour
Water
TOTAL
Saturday
18:00
40
450
750
1240
Sunday
10:30
1240
435
725
2400
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1a. Rye Sourdough
Bacheldre Organic Dark Rye Flour
40
880
Water
66.7
1467.4
TOTAL
106.7
2347.4
1b. Soaker
Flax Seed Blond
10
220
Cold Water
30
660
TOTAL
40
880
2. Final Dough
Rye Sourdough [from 1a]
106.7
2347.4
Soaker [from 1b]
40
880
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
60
1320
Salt
1.3
28.6
TOTAL
208
4576
% pre-fermented flour
40
-
% overall hydration
96.7
-
% wholegrain flour
40
-
FACTOR
22
-
Method:
Build the Rye Sourdough as shown, and prepare the soaker the night before.
Mix the soaker, sourdough and white flour using a paddle beater, on first speed for 3 minutes, scraping down, until clear. Autolyse for 1 hour.
Add the salt and mix for 2 minutes on first speed and 4 minutes on second speed. Use the hook if it picks up the dough, otherwise stick with the paddle beater. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment for 2 hours.
Scale and divide into prepared bread tins.
Final proof 2 hours.
Bake in the wood-fired oven.
Cool on wires.
3. Roasted Almond and Fruit Bread
Material/Stage
Formula [% of flour]
Recipe [grams]
1. Biga
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
20
300
Water
12
180
Fresh Yeast
0.2
3
TOTAL
32.2
483
2. Final Dough
Biga [from 1]
32.2
483
Marriage’s Organic Strong White Flour
55
825
Marriage’s Organic Strong Wholemeal
25
375
Butter
5
75
Salt
1.67
25
Fresh Yeast
1.33
20
Water
56
840
Selection: Raisins, Dates, Figs
12.5
180
Almonds –skinned, toasted and chopped
12.5
180
TOTAL
200.2
3003
% pre-fermented flour
20
-
% overall hydration
68
-
% wholegrain flour
25
-
FACTOR
15
-
Method:
Prepare the Biga the night before.
Combine all the ingredients in the mixer except the fruit and nuts. Mix on first speed until clear, scraping down as needed. Mix for 6 minutes on second speed with the hook attachment. Rest the dough for 20 minutes then add the fruit and nuts and mix to clear using a Scotch cutter. DDT 28°C.
Bulk Ferment 1½ hours.
Scale and divide into 3 x 1kg pieces; mould round. Rest 15 minutes then shape as bloomers.
Final proof 1½ hours.
Score the tops of the loaves, glaze with egg and bake in the wood fired oven.