Submitted by dmsnyder on December 2, 2008 - 10:56pm

Ficelles made with Anis Bouabsa's baguette formula


 

  • Flour 500 gms Giusto's Baker's Choice
  • Water 375 gms
  • Yeast 1/4 tsp Instant
  • Salt 10 gms
  1. Mix flour and water and autolyse for 20 minutes.
  2. Add yeast and mix by folding dough in the bowl.
  3. Add salt and mix by folding dough in the bowl.
  4. Mix dough by folding and stretching in the bowl for 20 strokes. Repeat this 3 more times at 20 minute intervals.
  5. Refrigerate dough, covered tightly, for 21 hours.
  6. Divide into 4 equal parts and preshape gently for baguettes.
  7. Allow preshaped pieces to rest, covered with plastic, for 1 hour.
  8. Shape into ficelles (short, thin baguettes).
  9. Proof en couche or on parchment paper dusted with semolina for 45 minutes.
  10. Pre-heat oven to 500F with baking stone in middle rack and a cast iron skillet and a metal loaf pan on the lowest rack. Preheat 45 minutes or longer before baking.
  11. 3-5 minutes before baking, place a handful of ice cubes in the loaf pan. Shut the oven door. Bring water to a boil.
  12. Transfer the ficelles to a peel and load them onto the baking stone. Pour one cup of boiling water into the skillet. Close the oven door.
  13. Turn the oven down to 480F.
  14. After 10 minutes, remove the loaf pan and the skillet from the oven.
  15. Continue baking for another 10-15 minutes until the loaves are nicely colored, the crust is hard all around and the bottom gives a hollow sound when tapped. Internal temperature should be at least 205F.
  16. Cool on a rack completely before slicing.

Anis Bouabsa is a young Parisian boulanger who won the prize for the best baguettes in Paris in 2008. He gave Janedo, a French home baker extraordinaire and a member of TFL, his formula, and Jane shared it with us. He uses a technique of a long, cold fermentation which has been used, with variations, by a number of contemporary French bakers.

In addition to producing wonderfully flavored bread, it also permits the home baker to make bread using two blocks of about 2-3 hours rather than requiring longer time blocks. For example, I mixed the dough yesterday evening after dinner. I took it out of the refrigerator at about 4:30 pm this afternoon, and we ate it with dinner at 7:30 pm.

These ficelles sang loudly coming out of the oven. I cooled them for only 20-30 minutes. The crust was very crunchy, and the crumb had a sweetness that would make one think there was sugar in the dough. Very yummy.

Variations on Bouabsa's formula, adding 100 gms of sourdough starter and substituting 10% rye or whole wheat flour for an equal amount of white flour, make a delicious pain de campagne, which has become a favorite bread of several of us.

This is described in my blog entries under "Pain de Campagne" and "San Joaquin Sourdough."

Enjoy!
David

 

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Handsome ficelles! Great oven

Handsome ficelles!

Great oven spring too, David! Did you slash them in one stroke from end to end, or did several cuts burst open together? Lovely colour. Do you stretch them into shape, or do you roll them?

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Shape and slash

Thanks, hansjoakim!

The ficelles were shaped using the traditional technique for baguettes. I slashed them with one long stroke. I thought it would work better given how thin they were.

David

ficelles

David,

 

Giusto's Baker's Choice is a type that I do not have access to. I primarily use any thing KA because of its accessibility in the supermarkets. I live in Indiana so certain flours do not make thier way here. Can I use a KA product that is close to the Giusto's?

Many thanks,

Chuppy

P.S. Have you ever worked in a proffessional bakery or just a home artisan?

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Flour substitution

Hi, Chuppy.

Giusto's Baker's Choice has 11.0-11.5% protein. KAF AP flour is 11.7% protein. That's probably a reasonable substitute, but it's likely other brands of AP flour have lower protein/gluten.

No, I've never worked in any part of the food industry. What do you mean "JUST a home artisan?" ;-)

David

Flour substitution

David,

So your saying that I could continue to use KA on a regular basis? I do like the quality of flour that is milled by KA. Once again we are limited to what we can purchase in the grocery.

What I meant by "Just" a home artisan, is have you practiced your skills by only baking at home. By the looks of your loves, you seem to have a professional touch to what you do. The pics of the ficelles are absolutely amazing to look at. I only wish I could produce such baked goods. Hopefully, with the help of others on The Fresh Loaf, I can begin trying to replicate what others like yourself have been doing for quite some time.

From my understanding, the bakers method of measuring ingrediants by percentage is a very fluent langauge and one that is importanat to understand the basics of bread baking in general.

Thank you for your reply,

Best regards,

Chuppy

 

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Flours

Hi, Chuppy.

You are going to find differences in how flours behave day to day depending on the batch of grain, ambient humidity and temperature, etc.

You can substitute flours, but it will have consequences in how the dough behaves and feels. With experience, you will come to connect how the dough acts with how the bread turns out. We can talk in generalities about this, but there really is no substitute for (literally) hands-on experience.

I am a home baker. I've never even taken a class. In fact, I've never even worked face-to-face with another bread baker. Yet, I can't believe how much better my breads have become since I started hanging out on TFL. I just checked. It's only been 15 months. Un-freaking-believable!

Now, I wasn't just hanging out. I was asking questions like crazy. I was seriously surfing old topics. I was venting my frustration when something wasn't working for me. I was reading lots of the recommended books. I was getting a LOT of help and encouragement from the more experienced bakers here who were producing loaves I could only dream about making some day. And - whatdoyouknow! My breads got better!

Nothing magic about it. Just plain old persistance and a pinch of perfectionism and a passion for challenges, not to mention a passion for great bread.

I've seen many others travel this road and arrive at breads that make you jump for joy when you take them out of your oven. It's a great trip! Enjoy it.

David

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David, Nice to see you... and

David,

Nice to see you... and your bread! They look lovely. I don't drink café au lait anymore except on a rare occasion as a treat, but one of my very favorite breakfasts is a BIG café au lait with ficelles like yours spread with butter and jam. Absolutely heaven! Add to that sitting at an outdoor café on the edge of the beach in a town called Collioure:

http://www.collioure.com/gb/index-gb.htm

I have been playing around with baguette recipes, but these remain my favorite.

Jane

 

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Hi, Jane!

Nice to see you, too!

Je suis d'accord! I had half a ficelle, cut end to end with butter and homemade strawberry jam for breakfast. No café au lait, though - just a pot of very delicious Kenyan coffee from Stumptown Coffee Roasters in Portland.

And no outdoor café nor beach, either. <sigh>

David

Nice Looking Bread!

'nuff said

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Thanks, Pat!

David

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Impressive!

Mini

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Thanks, Mini!

David

Very nice

Very nice David. Looks like marvelous crunch with that crust.

 

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Thanks, Eli!

It was indeed crunchy!

David

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Beautiful Beautiful Beautiful

Rosalie

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Thanks, Rosalie!

But only 3 "beautifuls?"

So, which of the 4 ficelles didn't you like? ;-)

David, emulating the classic Jewish mother.

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Let me finish

... Beautiful, with an extra Beautiful for good measure.

Rosalie

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Awwww ....

Hi, Rosalie.

Now you're exagerating! (But I do appreciate it.)

David

les ficelles belles!

Such beautiful bread! I made my first baguettes last week in my new wood-fired bread oven.  They were good, but no better than what you can buy in the shops, and not anything like the beauties here! I wonder if the ice cubes in a cast iron pan would work in a brick oven. Any ideas out there?

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Thanks, mroepke!

I'd love to see photos of what's coming out of your wood-fired oven. 

I can't speak to humidification of a wood-fired oven, having no experience with them. I've wondered about that myself. It's my impression that those using them don't do anything to introduce extra moisture, but maybe we'll hear from some with personal experience.

David

wood-fired oven

Check out my blog: mybreadoven.blogspot.com

There are some pictures of focaccia and a neighbor's sourdough that came out great! I am going to try the ficelle recipe this weekend. My plan is to make enough dough ahead of time and freeze it, so I can thaw and rise at intervals. That way I can have several loads of bread. (Christmas presents!) I'll let you know how that goes. It has all the potential for a real mess!

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wood-fired oven steaming

Some people have suggested using a garden hose and just give your oven a spritz inside....is you have a wooden door that can be soaked in water...if you have a large load of bread the moisture coming from the bread can create enough natural steam....using a wet/damp mop on the floor of your oven can tend to cool your oven floor temp. down and this is usually done just to clean up the ash before baking.  These are only suggestions as to what you might try if you want to put steam into your oven.

Sylvia

Mop && Water

I've heard that people with wood-fired ovens (cobs, hearths, etc...) can use a rag mop and a bucket of water to produce loads of steam before putting the loaves in.

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Wonderful

Wonderful ficelles!  I really appreciate the way you wrote out your directions for making them...everything very nicely done and the jam, coffee, cafe au lait....just my cup O tea!

Sylvia

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Thanks, Sylvia.

David

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Congrats!!!

Looks very tasty....

beautiful color, crust and crumb!!!!!

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Thanks, Leandro!

David

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Thanks for posting these

Thanks for posting these wonderful pictures and recipe.  I had good luck today with your recipe adapted to a room-temperature ferment -- see here.  I don't know how you managed to get such great rip on the top with this wet dough.

Scott

 

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Thank you, Scott.

You did a good job. I posted more details in your topic.

David

moisture in wood-fired oven

Yes - we use a wood-handled mop (well wrung out) - to clean the sole of ashes and add moisture, but I was warned by Alan Scott that I should never use any free water on the firebricks. I think that I will start to mop for a longer period of time, adding more steam and also try the ice-cube in the loaf pan and the boiling water in the cast-iron pan. Thanks for you thoughts! It 's really fun to try to figure this stuff out!

-Marcia

Wonderful!

They look really super - I MUST give this method a go! Thanks for sharing !

 

Andrew

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Thanks, Andrew!

Let us know how yours turn out.

David

Easy and very, very tasty!

As my regular baguette bake follows PR's Ancienne formula (which my kids and grandkids literally inhale), I had to try your ficelle recipe, David.

I wasn't sure of what the dough temperature was supposed to be so, I nuked the water for about 30 seconds (my well water is so cold in the winter, drinking a full glass causes brain freeze).

The next evening I removed the dough from the cooler and had to make a quick trip to YouTube to check out the baguette shaping videos.  The dough was so responsive that I missed the mark of short, thin baguettes, winding up with three long thin baguettes and one shorter one (I should have weighed the dough before cutting it).  There was no going back at that point and while my shaping skills need work, it was great fun working with the dough.

I should have slashed deeper, or vertically.  Actually, I'm surprised I was even able to get a few cuts in.

The ficelles tasted wonderful; the crumb was nice and open, and the crust was crisp and chewy. 

I will definitely practice making more of these, but am curious about the water temperature you used, and what effect using water of 40F would have.

Thanks so much for posting this formula.  These will make great Christmas gifts!

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Nice job!

Hi, Lindy.

Your crumb is outstanding! Wow!

I don't obsess over water temperature, although if a recipe is specific about it I follow the instructions. 40F is pretty cold, though. When I start with cold water, I usually warm it to "tepid" - 70-85F. The main effect of colder water would be to slow down fermentation. That is good for flavor development, but it could be a problem if timing is important to you.

I''m glad you liked your results. You should try this recipe with 100 gms added sourdough starter and 10% rye flour. The flavor is even better, in my opinion. The crust is less crunchy and more chewy with the sourdough, of course.

Thanks for sharing your results.

David

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Wow! Your crumbs is great! I

Wow! Your crumbs is great! I am a firm believer that baguettes really don't have to be picture perfect to be incredibly GOOD! The "proper" look will come with practice. (I still haven't managed, but don't care). You can play with the hydration depending on the flour you're using.

Tell us what you think of the sourdough version. I like it even better than these ones.

Jane

Sourdough delights

I love your philosophy, Jane...although I'm a bit late in saying so!  I tried the sourdough version but in my enthusiasm to load the oven, one baguette flew off the stone to the bottom rack.  If I ever do that again, I think I'll just let the fallen bread bake (or maybe burn) in place because I lost a lot of oven heat while fishing it out.  The baguttes that managed to stay on the stone were quite tasty, but didn't get the benefit of a sustained blast of heat and steam.

I'm going mix up two batches tomorrow after work so I can bake them the next morning for Christmas Eve dinner.

I really must thank you for getting Mr. Bouabsa to share his formula, and to you and David for working out the details and making them available here.  It is a great gift that keeps on giving each time they're baked  While I'm at it, I have to note my appreciation to Mark for his baguette shaping video.  Better shaping has led to better scoring....but still not as pretty as David's.

Joyeux Noël to you and your loved ones.

 

 

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I have had some terrible oven

I have had some terrible oven bread disasters! But losing one baguette is better than a whole loaf. Oh well, perfecting baguettes is lots of fun anyway. I think I'll do some up for Christmas, too. I really have to decide what I'm going to make for the meal, though!!!

Joyeux Noël et très bonnes fêtes à vous tous aussi!

Jane

A definite

I will definitely try the sourdough and rye variation - tonight, in fact.

Thanks so much for posting the formula and for your encouragement!

Lindy

 

Please, David, explain

Hi David

It looks great, I want to try it. Could you please, explain more the step no. 4?

What type and size of a mixing spoon do you use, what movements make the proper stretching and folding etc.

Also do you bake it with the parchment paper?

Thank you for all the explanation. I am a newbee.

Alka

 

 

 

 

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Stretch and fold in the bowl

Hi, Alka.

Here is a description I posted previously:

"It is best for slack doughs. Most use a flexible plastic scraper, but I have found a rubber spatula to work as well. Remember, we are talking about very sticky doughs. Believe me: getting the dough to stick to the spatula or scraper is not a problem. Getting it unstuck? Well that's another matter.

So, your dough is in a bowl that is large, say 3 times the dough's volume. You insert your scraper between the dough and the bowl at 12 o'clock (assuming you are at 6 o'clock) and stretch the dough your scraper contacts up and over the ball of dough and press it into the dough. If you do this fast, the dough will release the scraper. Maybe some will stick to it.

Turn the bowl 1/5 turn. (I am right-handed and rotate the bowl clockwise.) Insert your scraper between the new portion of dough now at 12 o'clock and do as described above again. Repeat this turn, insert, stretch, press, release maneuver 20 times.

Cover the bowl and set a timer for when you want to repeat this procedure. Generally, this would be between 20 and 60 minutes.

How many times you repeat it depends on the degree of gluten development you want.

I have been doing 3 sets of stretch-and-folds 20 minutes apart for a dough with 75% hydration."

David

measures

I tried this tonight but I don't have a scale (yet), so I used an online conversion to approximate.  I used 5 cups of flour when I think it should have been more like 4.  Does this sound right? 

After I realized it wasn't right I adjusted the water up at the beginning of the autolyse and tried to follow the method but the dough was very elastic, nowhere near what the video shows.  I'll still cook the bastards, no sense in wasting the flour but I don't have high hopes.  Who knows, stranger things have happened.

I'm going to try this recipe again later this week when I finally break down and buy a scale.

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Extensibility

Hi, md_massimino.

Welcome to TFL!

This dough is supposed to be very extensible. If yours was very elastic, maybe you added too much flour. Did you substitute a high-gluten flour by any chance?

A scale will really help.

Let us know how your first effort turns out.

David

Restults

I baked the dough that I messed up on the measurements with. Well, it's a testament to this recipe because they didn't come out half bad.  I continue to bungle the techniques and my oven really has a difficult time getting up to and sustaining the high temperatures required to give a good crisp crust, but overall a decent baguette.

Here's the crumb.  I had to turn the flash off or you couldn't see it very well.

With my new knowledge (and a scale) I'll try again this weekend with I'm sure improved results.

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Very nice!

Good work for a first attempt. Just from the appearance, I think you needed higher hydration, but there are some alternative possibilities. 

How is the flavor?

I like your attitude! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

David

First attempt

I thought the flavor was very good but not as good as others I've made using a poolish start.  Hopefully that comes around this weekend when I try again.

Of course my kids thought they were great and ate them all already.  What can I say, they're easy to please :)

hello

hi,

first, thank you for sharing!

second ive tried the directions posted but my baguettes dont seem to bloom in the oven. i suspect it must be due to my shaping skills. when shaping the baguette after the 60min rest, how 'tight' do you roll? is one to treat the dough gently or push out the air? i watched a few clips on youtube and it seems that the final shaping of the baguette is pretty tight.

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Shaping

Hi, koalatree.

This should be a fairly slack (wet, sticky) dough. You should handle it very gently when shaping. You absolutely do not want to "push the air out," but you don't want to do that in any bread when you are shaping. Well, maybe popping huge bubbles in a ciabatta.

There are lots of other things that influence bloom in the oven though. You must not over-proof. You need a hot oven. You need high humidity in the oven for the first third to half of the bake.

David

hello!

good news i made progress. after rereading many times your post, i used extra water in the skillet, proofed much less, and it made such a big difference. i tried 2 diffrent flours. 1 gold medal all purpose and the second is gold medal bread. the all purpose was much better. the breads with more of a rise was the all purpose. the first batch sort of well done. also it was in the fridge for 36+ hours. thanks for the help!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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It looks like you're on the right track.

Very nice crumb, koloatree.

Crust is a bit well done. Do you think you baked them too long, or was the oven too hot?

David

ahh yes, the first batch was

ahh yes, the first batch was overdone by accident. also i forgot to turn down the temperature! sometimes i get too excited watching the bread bake, i forget directions. i think that i figured since i keep opening the oven, i might as well set the temp slightly higher to compensate for heat loss. i will try again this wednesday.

First try

Hello all,

I've just recently joined the site after snooping around for awhile.  I just finished my first try at baking the ficelles using Boabsa's formula.  Everything seemed to be going well up until the preshaping step.  After the 21 hours in the fridge the dough seemed to have almost doubled (although it didn't look like a whole lot of dough I must say).  I had tons of trouble handling the dough, it was impossibly sticky.  Is this normal?  I've seen several videos of baguette shaping and mine just seemed way to soft and sticky to shape properly. 

Slashing with a razor blade was difficult as well.  Even when trying to make quick slashes the blade would stick and drag the dough.

In the end they turned out fine (a bit mishapen) but the crum was probably not as holey as it could be and the crust maybe slightly under crispy (there was a decent crispness factor but not as good as David's above).  Should it be so crispy that it's almost as if the slices have been in a toaster?

Photos:

They taste great anyways.

Liam

 

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Nice first time Bouabsa baguettes

Hi, Liam.

I'm glad you enjoyed your baguettes. I'll try to answer your questions.

This is a somewhat slack dough and is on the sticky side. It is easier to handle if you have developed the gluten really well. I use the stretch and fold in the bowl technique. It works really well. Here is Hamelman's description:

Hamelman's “Stretch and Fold in the Bowl” no-knead technique

Mark Sinclair (mcs) has made a really fine video of this technique. It doesn't seem to be in the TFL video library, but it should be. I managed to locate it. Here's the link:

no-knead video

It is necessary to use a light, fast touch in shaping. Pressing hard on the dough will make it stick to your hands. Strive for fast moves, leaving your hands in contact with the pieces for as short a time as possible with each manipulation.

In scoring, again, fast moves. Wet your blade before each cut.

The crust should be crisp. Leaving the baguettes in the turned off oven with the door ajar for 5-7 minutes helps dry the crust after baking. It will get soft in a couple hours or three.

Your crumb looks pretty good to me.

I hope these tips help.

BTW, standard baguettes are around 65% hydration. So the videos are often misleading. This is a slacker dough than "standard."

David

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David:

Trying your formula and improving my baguette scoring techniques will be the focus of my upcoming weekend baking.  Would you please give me some suggestions on what I could have done differently in terms of angle, depth and handling, etc., based on my 090525 batch? Any comments are greatly appreciated.  Thank you.

Yippee

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Scoring

Hi, Yippee.

I'm not sure what your question is. Your "090525 batch" was a boule, unless there is a message I can't find. Scoring boules is quite different from scoring baguettes. Both techniques are covered in my "Scoring Tutorial." I don't have anything to add to that.

If I am misunderstanding your question, please clarify.

David

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David:

Sorry for the confusion.  I meant the '090525 Baguette Make-over' entry.  Thank you.

Yippee

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Baguette scoring

Hi, Yippee.

Thanks for the reference. Now I see.

Looking at your baguettes on Flickr, I can see how you need to change your scoring.

Assuming you want the "traditional" baguette scoring rather than the single cut I used for the ficelles, you need to make each cut almost parallel to the long axis of the baguette. Each cut should be about 4 to 5 inches long. Each cut should overlap the previous one by 1/4 to 1/3. The cuts should have about 1/2 inch of dough between them, where they overlap.

Please excuse my poor drawing, but I hope it helps.

Don't forget to hold the blade at a shallow angle to the loaf and to make each cut quickly and firmly, about 1/4 inch deep. You are creating a "flap" of dough that will, hopefully, open up and rise above the surface of the loaf during baking to create nice bloom and a nice ear.

Good luck, and let us see your results! 

David

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David:

Here is the picture of the scored dough before it was sent in the oven:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33569048@N05/sets/72157618981352446/

 

Makes a perfect illustration of your 'wrong' sample. 

 

I bought the following three Giusto flours on my way home: 

Ultimate - high protein whole wheat - $5.99 / 5 lbs

high protein fine whole wheat - $3.69 / 5 lbs

Baker's Choice (organic unbleached?) - loose - $1.29/lb

 

BTW, my Super Peel has arrived.  Hopefully this will end my frustration of loading slack baguette dough onto the stone.  Then I don't need the baguette pan anymore.

I'll keep you posted of my results.  Thank you very much.

 

Yippee

 

 

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First Practice

David:

I've put your scoring skills to use for the first time.  The results were encouraging.  Please visit my blog entry 090602 Sourdough Rye Bread. 

Your baguettes are on the way.  Thank you very much.

Yippee 

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First practice

Hi, Yippee.

I saw your rye. It looks wonderful! I'm looking forward to seeing your baguettes.

David

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Over-proofed

David:

My baguettes were over proofed last night and did not have much oven spring.  Therefore, the 'ears' did not show at all.  I'll redo it and keep you posted.  Thank you.

Yippee

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Failurer tastes very good

David:

I may have failed the scoring test but the taste and texture of these baguettes were phenominal.  My kids have told me that these were the best tasting baguettes I've made so far.  

Hope my next batch would be picture perfect as well.

 

Yippee

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Thanks for the progress report, Yippee.

It will all come together for you. I have complete confidence, having seen the other beautiful breads you have made.

Positive reviews from your "customers" is always energizing, of course.

David

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I've tried again.

David:

Please visit my blog to see my last attempt in making your baguettes.  Thanks again for your help!

Yippee

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See my message in your blog. :-)

You are definitely making the fast progress I expected of you!

David

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