The Bread Feed
I love to watch professionals score their proofed loaves. It always reminds me of dancing. The movement starts before the lame (or blade) even touches the dough. As Richard explains in his book, "Ideally, the motion is continuous, with the moving blade cutting neatly through the dough and continuing on its trajectory." Another baker I know phrased it differently but the idea is the same: "The lame has to hit the ground running!"
The bread was 40% whole wheat. As you can see from the images below, it turned out beautifully even though it started over-proofing a bit out in the warm air: if you let your dough over-ferment, the yeast uses up all the sugar and there will be no caramelization. So the proofing baskets had to be carried back all the way through the orchards to the retarder in the lab and brought back out again when the oven reached the right temperature. Fermentation does go more quickly with whole grain (the bread was 40% whole wheat), a wet dough (hydration was at 82-85%) and warmer temperatures.
Richard uses a garden mister to steam his oven. Someone asked how much steam to use. The answer: "You know there is enough steam when you can no longer keep your hand inside the oven to add more!" It is important to bake in a humid environment because the bread expands more, the score marks open more fully and you get a really good color with shine. If you bake at home and don't have a wood-fired oven, Richard recommends using a cast-iron combo cooker or to bake on a hearth stone or a sheet pan with a large metal bowl inverted over your loaf for the first twenty minutes.
For those of us who can't get to his classes, Richard mentioned he had a video out on Craftsy, Hand-made Sourdough - From starter to baked loaf. I haven't seen it yet.
After all, I do get it: eat locally and seasonally, be gentle with the landscape by favoring organic or at least environmentally friendly agricultural methods and always remember that farmers need to make a living too (after all, if there were no more farmers, there'd be nobody between us and Big Food, a thought too scary to contemplate). So I had more or less convinced myself that this year's event would be mostly a rehash and that having attended the first four ones, I was done!
Well, I am happy to say that I was wrong and that I flew home with dreams of the fifth Gathering dancing in my head! The name of the event was changed from Kneading Conference to Grain Gathering because, as Steve Jones (wheat breeder and Director of the Center as well as of the Bread Lab) puts it: "Nobody kneads anymore." Plus bakers are not the only ones interested in grain: farmers, millers, breeders, brewers, etc. flock to Mount Vernon as well. In fact, more than anything, the "gathering" dimension is what will keep me coming. I love the energy and dynamics of encounters with participants from all over (twenty American States, three Canadian Provinces, the United Kingdom and South Africa.) I love it that bread isn't the only focus, that classes, lectures and workshops on milling, malting, brewing, breeding, building earth ovens, transforming a stationary bike into a grain mill, etc... are all mobbed as well.
For an idea of the scope of the Gathering, you may want to take a look at the schedule. In an ideal world (where Time wouldn't exist or if it did, wouldn't be linear), I would have attended all classes, lectures, tours and workshops concurrently but as it is, I had to choose. So I forewent production baking (even though the workshop was run by two bakers I greatly admire, Mel Darbyshire from Grand Central Bakery in Seattle and Scott Mangold from Breadfarm in nearby Bow-Edison), the roundtable on the farmers' perspective, the one on milling and nutrition, the tour of the orchards and gardens, the visit to the wheat, barley and buckwheat fields, the talk on the science of bread, and many more that I won't even mention because I feel bad for missing them all over again, but if you check out the program, you'll have a good idea of what I am talking about.
In the end I opted for workshops that spoke louder than others either to my imagination or to my practical side or more often than not, to both. I attended all three of Naomi Duguid and Dawn Woodward's instructive and stimulating demos on the use of whole grain in everyday baking and cooking. I watched Richard Miscovich score proofed loaves before loading them in a wood-fired oven (Richard is an extraordinary baker and instructor and seeing him work is both a teaching moment and an experience you are not likely to forget.) I only caught the tail-end of Jeffrey Hamelman's pretzel workshop but still, I arrived at the wood-fired oven in time to see him score the pretzels (or not as he said it was a matter of personal preference) and hear most of his account of the tough love teaching methods of his German baking instructor.
I listened to a very interesting presentation by two high school students who won first place in the food science category at the 2013 Washington State Science and Engineering Fair for their project on fermentation and gluten.
I attended a lecture on natural leavening which went largely over my head but gave me the great pleasure of finally meeting microbiologist Debra Wink and hooking up again with Andrew Ross, professor of crop and soil science and food science at Oregon State University. I spent time with beloved friends, connected with other bloggers, met bakers, writers and Facebook friends I had never seen in person before, I took part in the Bread Lab's tasting of four different wheat varieties, all grown in the Skagit Valley, and I ate my way through three days of the most seductive event food imaginable.
Peach and bacon pizza In between, I took pictures (or, shall I say, "gathered" images) with joyful abandon (making up for last year when my left arm was in a cast.) I will post some (okay, a lot) of them in the coming days. If there are any recipes you are specifically interested in on the basis of the photos, please let me know and I'll ask for permission to post them. As far as I know, no pizza recipe is available but from the look of the ones I saw, the only ingredient that appears absolutely necessary is a boundless imagination!
Video by the British Museum
For the recipe, click here.
I love the string technique... In the video, the baker says he's using buckwheat flour as the Romans did in those days but the list of ingredients in the posted recipe calls for equal amounts of spelt and whole wheat flour. Note that the bread is shaped right after mixing and that there is only one fermentation. Not a very long one at that, most likely because of the very large amount of starter and the use of wholegrain flours. No mention of steam to promote oven spring, probably because the bread found during the excavations looks quite flat. If you make the recipe at home, remember that the posted baking temperature (200°) is expressed in Celsius: it translates into 392°F. The recipe lists gluten as an ingredient, which I find slightly odd. I can't imagine the Romans being in a position to supplement weak flour with gluten flour although, according to this article (scroll down to the paragraph titled Grains in Rome), they did favor high-gluten wheat. So maybe the added gluten is today's baker's way to approximate the wheat variety used in the original recipe. For more info on ancient Rome's access to grain, you may want to read Grain Supply to the city of Rome on Wikipedia. Too bad the British Museum doesn't provide a crumb shot. I would have loved to see one. My guess is that the bread turned out rather dense. What makes my head spin is the idea that a bread could stay in an oven for close to 2000 years...
Before I present you with the amazing bread collection you submitted for my Knight with the Iron Hand challenge, I owe you my own creation!
These goals I had in mind when I thought about the formula. I wanted to create a bread with grains and seeds used in German breads, preferably growing in the Baden Württemberg region.
Though worthy of Schloss Jagsthausen's long tradition and its noble, iron-fisted ancestor, my bread should meet modern baking standards, not authentic medieval bread tradition (weevil-count over 100/kg!)
Flours in my bread (from left): rye, wheat, einkorn, spelt and (top) barley
I also aimed for a bread that was not too fussy, and could be prepared either by the pastry chef of Schlosshotel Götzenburg's fabulous restaurant or outsourced to a local bakery. Therefore no holey loaf à la Tartine, and no overly complicated procedure.
Introducing a porridge to power up the hydration without making a whole grain dough too wet - this idea I happily took from Chad Robertson's "Tartine No. 3". It would work its magic in my less holey bread, too.
BreadStorm did the math for me, and this is the result:
Götzenburg Bread - a multigrain sourdough with millet porridge
This hearty loaf with a nice crust and moist crumb (or another one of the fabulous challenge breads) is exactly what we would love to find on Schlosshotel Götzenburg's breakfast buffet, when we visit next time!
Götz Challenge: Karin's Götzenburg-Brot
Millet for a porridge to add moisture and a little crunch
21 g rye mother starter 100%
40 g water
34 g whole rye flour
30 g whole spelt flour
18 g millet
37 g water
243 g water
2 g instant yeast
205 g bread flour
60 g whole spelt flour
40 g barley flour
60 g einkorn flour
8 g sea salt
7 g honey
Mix starter. Cover, and leave at room temperature.
Place millet and water in small sauce pan. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer for about 15 minutes, until millet is soft (add a little more water, if necessary). Set aside to cool.
Mix all dough ingredients at lowest speed (or by hand) for 1-2 minutes, until all flour is hydrated. Let dough rest for 5 minutes. Knead at medium-low speed (or by hand) for 6 minutes (dough should still be somewhat sticky).
Stretch and pat dough first into a square......then fold like a business letter...
...in three parts.Repeat the folding from right......and left to make a package.
Transfer dough to an oiled work surface. With oiled hands, stretch and pat into a square. Fold from top and bottom to the middle in 3 parts, like a business letter, then from both sides. Gather package into a ball and place, seam side down, into an oiled bowl.
Cover, and let rest for 10 minutes. Repeat stretching and folding 3 more times at 10-minute intervals. After the last fold, place (well covered) overnight in the fridge.
Remove dough from refrigerator 2 hours before using.
Preheat oven to 450ºF/232ºC, including baking stone and steaming device.
Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface, and shape into a boule or bâtard. Place, seam-side up, in well-floured rising basket.
Proof for 45 - 60 minutes, or until bread has grown 1 1/2 times its original size (finger poke test). Turn out on parchment lined baking sheet (or on peel to bake directly on baking stone). Score as desired (don't be too timid, cut decisively!).
Bake bread for 20 minutes, with steam. Rotate bread 180 degrees for even browning, remove steam pan, and continue baking for another 20 minutes, or until loaf is nicely browned and registers at least 200ºF/93ºC on an instant read thermometer.
Let bread cool on wire rack.
Medieval Castle Jagsthausen - nowadays Schlosshotel GötzenburgSubmitted at Yeast Spotting
My bake station
Hier geht's zur deutschen Version dieses Posts
In a recent blog event, Steph from Kleiner Kuriositätenladen asked what our kitchen looks like behind the scenes, which cook books we use, and where we do our blogging.
Inquiring minds want to know - as my husband always says - so I will just open the door for you:
Since 5 years I am licensed to sell breads (and cupcakes) from my home. My kitchen was officially inspected, and I'm paying every year 20 bucks for the renewal of my Home Processor's License.
I am therefore legally:
I bake European breads for A&B Naturals, our our local natural food store - in summer twice, in winter once a week.
Since my breads are quite popular (modest blush!), it's more our less "baker's choice" what I want to make for them - as long as my rustic baguettes and Multigrain Pitas are also in the basket!
Delivery basket with baguettes, pitas and Pane Siciliano
Of course, a baker who enjoys experimenting, needs a lot of ingredients - here you can see a small part of my flours:
Backstair storage for rye, wheat, spelt & Co.
Our basement is too damp, therefore our kitchen backstairs was re-purposed for flour storage.
For larger amounts of dough I need a reliable work horse. Mine is a 20-qt Hobart, purchased from a store for used restaurant appliances. Though moaning and groaning loudly when it kneads, it handles even the stiffest multigrain doughs.
My Hobart mixer (20 quart)
When not at work or digesting, my other helpers reside in the fridge:
Sourdough family: rye, Forkish, Tartine and whole wheat starters
The inspiration for my breads I get from an ever-growing book collection, baking facebook friends, Fresh Loaf bakers, and other bloggers.
English-German bread baking books
And if I take a break from bread baking, I do other interesting things for a change - like baking CAKES:
No wonder that I have to fast now and then....
My mobile workplace is my Mac, I carry him up and down in the house. My recipe management programs are Paprika, and BreadStorm (especially for breads).
And sometimes a Queen (of the Night) keeps me company!
Of course I also have a desk - but there I'm not that often - it's occupied by somebody else - Toby!
Mess or creative chaos?
Flour on the table, pitas on the rise, freshly baked breads in the background, mixing bowls on the dishwasher, and I'm spraying baguette pans with oil - a typical baking day.
My kitchen is my working and living room!
My kitchen is my working and living room. Here I bake for my customers the (immensely popular) Sunflower Ryes, for example:
Sunflower Rye - one of my most popular sourdough breads
and for my family Strawberry-Rhubarb-Pie, always faithful to my credo: "Life is uncertain - eat the Dessert first!"
FB-friend and food journalist Kim Ode's Strawberry-Rhubarb-Pie
Galettes. These rustic free-form tarts – nothing more than flaky crust folded casually around juicy fruit — are the quintessential summer pastry. Just about any seasonal berries or stone fruits will work, but nothing is more beautiful than red-rimmed golden peach slices.
My individual-size galettes were based on Tartine’s method, which could not be simpler: roll out crust, place naked fruit, sprinkle with a little sugar, fold, and bake. (If you don’t have the book, get it; Tartine’s galette crust recipe alone is worth the dough. Thanks, I’ll be here all week.)
For each galette, I used about 110 grams of crust dough, one (unpeeled) medium peach cut into eight slices, and a teaspoon of sugar. I also added an experimental element: a layer of fine dry breadcrumbs (Norwich Sourdough, of course), which was intended to absorb the peach juices, adding another textural component to the filling and preventing the flaky crust from becoming soggy.
Photo credit: Nate Delage (thank you, Nate!) Despite having lived and worked in the Northeast for more than thirty years, I was caught by surprise when I disembarked from the plane in Chicago by a blustery April morning: after a few years in the temperate Seattle area, I seemed to have completely forgotten what real cold felt like. When I mentioned it to Jacqueline - who had come by train to meet me at Midway Airport - she laughed: "Cold? This isn't cold. To me this feels like spring already." Really? She was wearing a woolen coat and hat and a thick scarf was wrapped several times around her neck. I guess all is relative, including weather. I fished my own hat, scarf and gloves out of my backpack (Jacqueline had kindly forewarned me to come prepared) and proceeded to follow her to her and Dado's cozy home. Dado was baking pitas for lunch. It smelled delicious. I took out my camera and my notebook and we got to work, feasting as we talked. Such was the start of a glorious few days spent in this extraordinary couple's company...
As you may already know if you have been following this blog, Dado and Jacqueline Colussi are the creators and developers of BreadStorm, the bread formulation software which delivers bakers from spending much time on calculations (for more on why I am a huge fan of the program, please refer to my original BreadStorm post). We bakers are a astonishingly diverse crowd: some of us seem to have fallen into a mixing bowl before we even took their first steps, others become professional bakers after a career in business, academia, music, healthcare, the law, education, journalism, etc., others yet become passionate bread-bakers but keep their full-time other jobs. Jacqueline and Dado don't exactly fit into any of these categories: yes, they are passionate home bakers and yes, they have full-time jobs that, technically speaking, do not involve baking. Yet they make a living thinking about bread, more often than not twenty-four hours a day and seven days a week, and they bake as often and as much as they can.
Despite the fact that writing code doesn't come naturally to most people, Dado and Jacqueline clearly love doing the hard stuff. They also exhibit an obvious delight in working with ingredients and observing changes in their doughs. The pitas are a case in point. Watching them pop up in the oven, Dado says he feels like a five-year old all over again. "No computer screen can match that. We create bread so that we can get off the computer and spend time in the physical world. Our goal in creating BreadStorm was to reduce to a minimum the baker's need to use the computer so that he/she can go back to the dough as fast as possible and watch the pitas popping."
Dado was born to a Finnish mom and an Italian dad. He grew up in Finland but spent lots of time in Italy and the food in his home was a rich blend of two cultures. Dado recounts: "The seed of my interest in bread-baking was planted back in year 2000 in Italy. At a family friend's home, eating home-made pizza baked in an old wood-fired oven made a permanent impression on me. Then in 2004, when I was in graduate school in Germany, the sourdough made by a local baker knocked my socks off, I can still taste it today. A few years later at a friend's forest cottage in Finland, without really knowing what we were doing, Jacqueline and I had a chance to try to bake bread in a wood-fired oven together. It was a massive oven, built in the center of the cottage, to provide warmth throughout, and it had a hearth. The pizza we made came out well, but the bread was a doorstop. A total failure." In other words, a challenge...
Jacqueline and Dado had both been living in Stockholm for two years when they met. Cooking was a shared passion from the very beginning. Baking soon followed. But after several "doorstops," they realized that they had no understanding of what was going on and that guessing and improvising would only take them so far. They needed to get to the point where they could make informed decisions. They turned to books: Jacqueline felt especially inspired by Emily Buehler's Bread Science while Dado first discovered "bakers' math" in Peter Reinhart's The Bread Baker's Apprentice. A curtain lifted: there was a system there and not only the wizardry of a prodigy baker.
Jacqueline and Dado come from different professional background but there is a palpable synergy between the two of them. Dado holds a master's degree in computer science, with a minor in math. He's been creating software professionally for the past seventeen years. One of his favorite past projects involved writing weather forecast broadcasting software for a television studio. He says: "I spend a lot of time thinking about how to make software easy for people to use. Many programmers work on systems which never talk to humans, but only to other programs, and that's what I did at the beginning. Then I became much more interested in humans actually using the computer." Around that time he met Jacqueline who had made it her profession to try and understand human/computer interaction. Talk about serendipity...
Jacqueline's background is mathematics, visual arts and dance. "Pure math was my major in college. After college I was looking for a way to blend my interests in math and visual arts. I was actively trying to find my way, when I met a vision scientist through one of my undergrad math professors. 'Vision scientist' -- that was a path I didn't know existed, and it intrigued me. After volunteering in a vision lab for some months, I decided to go for a Ph.D. in vision. And in the years I spent working on my Ph.D., I began to find my own intellectual places: designing experiments to collect data about how we humans process what we see, whether leisurely gazing at the scene in front of us, or reacting in high-risk situations (such as the air traffic controller guiding airplanes to prepare for landing safely at a busy airport); developing mathematical models to describe this behavior; and then exploring how we can apply this knowledge to build more intuitive, easy-to-use computer interfaces for tasks in our daily lives."
Like Dado, Jacqueline was exposed early to adventurous cross-cultural taste experiences : "I grew up in New Jersey baking bread for the family with my maternal grandma whose parents were from Croatia. But what with grad school and a postdoc job, all of which involved a lot of traveling for research purposes, I remained without regular access to a full kitchen for ten years. Looking back, I am not sure how I put up with that. I always hoped to get back to bread-baking..."
To offer a tool to bread-bakers is a joint effort propelled by Dado's and Jacqueline's urge to give back. "When I was in ninth grade," says Dado, "a neighbor of ours started a programming club. I joined it. It was very casual. We met every weekend. In retrospect that neighbor transformed my life. He helped him discover a passion for mastering the computer." As Jacqueline puts it, "were it not for other bakers in other parts of the world using BreadStorm and becoming part of the story, our job wouldn’t be nearly as compelling. We work in the context of a community."
BreadStorm's main idea is to let the human do what he or she does well, which is taking sensory input (temperature, consistency, texture, aromas, feel, look, response) and basing action on that, and to delegate to the computer what no human does with ease, which is computation. "Our brains have developed to respond to sensory stimuli in a way that no computer can (yet). So let’s use our brains for what they are good at and our computers for what they are good at."
The Colussis have been baking their own bread since the summer of 2008. "Dado and I have developed our own respective styles of amateur bread baking, which are complementary to one another, perhaps even symbiotic." Dado has come to love the rhythm of sourdough baking over the years: he makes two loaves of Chicago sourdough every week.
In addition he regularly experiments with other breads, for fun and to expand his repertoire: pitas, panettone, laminated doughs, rieska (a Finnish potato flatbread), etc. During my stay, he experimented making his signature Chicago Sourdough with two different flours (all-purpose and bread) and baked lovely and tasty Karelian pies (with a mostly rye crust and either a rice or a mashed potato filling).
Jacqueline's bread-baking is for the most part driven by her interest in formula development: "I come at a bread in an analytical way, question myself about the role of each ingredient and its percentage, and then develop-bake-develop-bake-develop-etc, sometimes a dozen times or more, until a formula becomes stable (some would say "well balanced") in my hands. I like to bake breads that challenge me to hone my formula-development skills. In this vein, I like to work with soakers and enriched doughs." She bakes bagels once a week.
For my benefit, she went all out and also made beautiful egg breads...
...farro fruit and nut pull-apart rolls...
...and a walnut bread.
To say I was extraordinarily lucky to be spending time with Dado and Jacqueline is to put it mildly. Not only they are terrific hosts but they are lots of fun. We took long walks, went to the Art Institute...
...attended a meeting of the Chicago Amateur Bread Bakers, a group they founded in January 2011, rode the elevated train...
(The tracks and buildings were not really tilting. I was just having fun with double exposures).
...had breakfast at La Fournette...
...roamed the streets...
But mostly we talked, I watched them cook and bake and we ate. They gave me tasks to perform with BreadStorm, both on my laptop and on the iPad, and documented my thought processes and actions. The experience was an eye-opener both for them and for me: I could see they were intrigued (maybe dismayed but if so, they hid it well!) by the way my brain worked and I was awed both by their methodical and rigorous approach and by the way their minds seemed to complement one another. "“Hey, Dado, I’d like to borrow your brain for a second!" Jacqueline makes a point, Dado listens attentively, thinks for a while and off they go, debating the best way to resolve an issue or answer a question. In a way, Dado is the chief engineer and she is the CEO. "There are levels of abstraction: down deep it is highly geeky. At the top there is a human being with his or her desires, aspirations, limitations, etc. Dado is firmly on the low level. I am more on top. We meet in the middle."
Dado and Jacqueline generously allowed me to publish the formulas for all the breads they made during my stay with them. For ease of reference each of them is posted in a separate post:
Dado's Chicago Sourdough (all-purpose and bread flour versions)
Dado's Dough for Karelian Pies
Jacqueline's Egg Bread
Jacqueline's NYC Deli-Style Farro, Fruit and Nut Pull-Apart Rolls
Jacqueline's Walnut Flax Seed Boule
What with the move and other obstacles life has thrown my way, I haven't had much time to bake lately but when I do, I'll be sure to go down the list and recreate these breads for our own enjoyment. I had such a good time eating them the first time around. Thank you, Dado and Jacqueline! And if the breads don't come out of my oven as lovely and tasty as yours, I will definitely keep your observation in mind: "A failure is an opportunity to learn. A wonderful aspect of bread-baking is that there is always more to learn and that is true for all of us. There are so many unanswered questions and so many questions yet to be asked."
Related post: Meet the Bakers: Jacqueline and Dado Colussi
Dado's Chicago Sourdough with Bread Flour
Scaling note: I like to scale this formula to 500g of total flour.
1. Dissolve the starter in the water.
2. Add the flour, and mix until homogeneous. Let ferment for 12 hours at room temperature (approximately 20ºC/68ºF).
3. Dissolve the levain in the Final Mix water.
4. Add the bread flour, and the whole-wheat flour, and mix until homogeneous. Let rest for 30 minutes.
5. Add salt to the dough, then stretch and fold.
6. Ferment for 2 hours and 30 minutes at room temperature, or until mature.
7. Stretch and fold twice at 50-minute intervals.
SHAPING AND PROOFING:
8. Preshape into a boule. Let the dough rest for 15 minutes.
9. Shape into a boule or batard, and place on a piece of baking paper.
10. Proof for 45-60 minutes.
11. Preheat the oven to 260ºC/500ºF.
12. Transfer the bread into a pre-heated Dutch oven.
13. Bake for 15 minutes, covered with a lid.
14. Remove the lid, and reduce the oven temperature to 230ºC/445ºF, and bake for another 30 minutes.
15. Transfer the bread to a cooling rack, and let the bread cool for a few hours before slicing.
Crumb from the Chicago Sourdough bread baked by Dado during my stay
- Dado doesn't go for a specific dough temperature: he uses room temperature water as he has no way to keep his dough warmer than room temperature after mixing anyway
- He usually bakes in a Dutch oven but during my stay, as he experimented baking with two different types of flour (bread and all-purpose) and his oven wasn't big enough for two Dutch ovens, he improvised an interesting "cloche": he made a stack of large books to the dimensions of his oven, he carefully covered those books with foil, and when he lifted the shaped foil, he had a home-made steam chamber with which he covered his two loaves after placing them in the oven.
- Dado relies on gravity to fold his dough ("air-folding")
The folding pictures above show the bread flour dough. The ones below show the all-purpose one. Same percentages, same weights. Notice the difference?
Using the starter Dado kindly gave me to take back (see Prairie Loaf), I made his Chicago Sourdough bread (with all-purpose flour) when I got home.
Dado's Chicago Sourdough with All-purpose Flour I was very pleased with the results. An excellent bread for everyday eating...
Jacqueline's Bagels Jacqueline's notes
- Scaling to 250 grams of total flour yields 4 bagels of approximately 100g each.
- Shaped bagels may be cold-fermented for up to 48 hours, before boiling and baking.
- Before baking, simmer bagels in water for 45 seconds on one side, 45 seconds on the other. While wet, set bagels face down in a plate of sesame seeds, to thoroughly coat one side of each bagel with seeds.
- Bake at 425F for 20-25 minutes. They're done when they begin to blush like peaches.
- Jacqueline bakes bagels weekly to try and perfect her routine.
- For reasons I can't fathom, I seem to have lost the pictures and videos I took of said routine except for this one:
- Jacqueline sent me on my trek back home (I had a very long layover somewhere between Chicago and Seattle) with several homemade treats, including one of these plump little breads. It brought back memories of our life back in New York when we had fresh bagels from an old-fashioned artisan bagel store every Saturday and Sunday. When the baker retired and sold to a chain, the bagels stopped (for us). Thank you Jacqueline for making me a Proustian bagel!
Jacqueline's NYC Deli-Style Farro, Fruit, and Nut Pull-apart Rolls Jacqueline's notes
Formula inspired by organic Bluebird Grain Farms emmer farro gifted to us by MC.
* Scaling this formula to 250 g of total flour yields 11 rolls of approximately 85 grams each.
* I like to bake the rolls packed loosely together in a round springform pan of diameter 23cm (9 inch). The rolls gently grow together when proofing and baking, to form a pretty disk of pull-apart rolls.
- Combine farro with its water. Bring to a boil. Simmer for 50 minutes. Cool.
- Boil water for oat-raisin soaker. Pour water over oats and raisins. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes or until cool
- Sift together Final Mix flours, salt, and yeast.
- Combine the 2 soakers with Final Mix water and molasses. Mix gently.
- By hand, gently knead the soaker mixture into the dry ingredients, until the dough comes together. It will be a bit sticky.
- Gently mix in whole hazelnuts.
- 7. Bulk ferment dough for 1 hour at room temperature.
- Divide the dough into pieces of approximately 85g.
- Dust baker's bench with a generous helping of whole wheat flour. Roll each piece of dough in the flour to coat its surface; this will make shaping this sticky dough easier, as well as encourage a rustic texture on the surface of the rolls.
- Gently de-gas and shape each roll into a tiny boule.
- Loosely pack rolls into a springform pan, so that they don't quite touch one another. (They will grow together as they proof and bake.)
- Cover springform pan tightly and cold ferment overnight.
- In the morning, bring rolls to room temperature. Pre-heat oven to 425F.
- Bake rolls with steam for 10 minutes, then 10 minutes without steam.
- The formula was also inspired by pull-apart rolls Jacqueline used to buy from a deli when she lived in New York City (hence the name).
- Oven space is at a premium when both Dado and Jacqueline are baking and Jacqueline's organizational skills come in handy. She knows which dough can wait and which has to be baked immediately when proofed and she plans accordingly. Dado had barely taken his Chicago Sourdough loaves out of the oven that the farro rolls went in: the percentage of molasses, the raisins, the high hydration, all conspired to make the dough super active.
- Jacqueline used osmotolerant yeast, a yeast developed for use with sweet doughs (10% or more sugar).
- The rolls were lovely, perfect for breakfast or an afternoon snack.
Jacqueline's Egg Bread Jacqueline's notes
- I find scaling the yield to 650 g is a nice size for a 3- or 4-strand braided loaf.
- Syrup: In a saucepan, combine the butter, milk, water, sugar, and salt. Cook over low heat until the butter is melted, and the sugar and salt are dissolved. Set aside to cool.
- Egg Mixture: Whisk together the eggs and sour cream. Set aside.
- Dry Ingredients: Sift together the flour and the yeast.
- Mixing: Once the syrup has cooled to room temperature, whisk it into the egg mixture. Add this mixture to the dry ingredients. Mix well, then knead vigorously by hand for 5 minutes, or until gluten develops.
- Bulk Fermentation: Cover the dough with a cloth. Ferment for 1 hour. Punch down. Ferment for a second hour.
- Shaping: The dough is ideal for braiding, and works well as a 2-strand twist, or a 3-, 4-, or 5-strand braid.
- Proofing: Proof the loaf under a cloth for 30 minutes to 3 hours, depending on the ambient room temperature.
- Pre-heating: Pre-heat the oven to 425˚F (220˚C).
- Egg Wash: With a fork, whisk together the egg yolk, a pinch of salt, and a few drops of water. Just before baking the loaf, brush it with egg wash up to 3 times. This will give the loaf a shiny, mahogany crust. (Leftover egg wash can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week.)
- Baking: Just before placing the loaf in the oven, reduce the oven temperature to 380˚F (195˚C). Bake for 25-35 minutes, depending on the size of the loaf. Cool completely before slicing.
- Jacqueline's egg bread is based on a taste memory (her grandma used to make it). She wanted consistency of a challah without the kosher constraints. So there are eggs and butter in it.
- Jacqueline likes to experiment with different sugars. In this version of the egg bread, she used muscovado sugar (which explains the pale brown color of the dough). She normally uses 16% turbinado sugar. She seems to remember that she reduced the sugar amount to 10% in this version because the muscovado is much more flavorful than the turbinado but it could have been 12%.
- The eggs were dyed with beet dripping (from peeling cooked beets). Jacqueline hard-boiled them in that liquid with a splash of vinegar.
- Jacqueline found the dough stickier than usual. Maybe because muscovado sugar absorbs water differently?
- She used the Craig Ponsford technique of egg-washing the proofed loaves dough three times, letting them dry in between. The method locks the steam in and yields a gorgeous gloss.
Jacqueline's Walnut Flax Seed Boule Jacqueline's notes
* I find scaling the yield to 650 g is a nice size for a medium-size boule.
* I usually don't score this loaf, as it doesn't seem to require help expanding in the oven. Perhaps the milk, honey, and walnut oil tenderize the dough, allowing it to expand evenly in the oven without ripping.
- Boil the water. Combine the water and oats. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes. The oats will absorb water and soften, so the crumb will be soft and tender.
- Chop the walnuts. In a frying pan, toast the walnuts over low heat until they become fragrant. For best flavor, remove the walnuts immediately from the hot pan. Set them aside to cool.
- Check that the soaker has cooled. (If it's too hot, it may harm or kill the yeast. To test whether it's cool enough, you should be able to comfortably leave a finger in the soaker for 10 seconds.)
- In a large bowl, combine the soaker and all other ingredients. Knead by hand until you can feel the gluten coming together.
- Add the walnuts and flax seeds to the dough. Mix gently and thoroughly.
- Cover the dough. Ferment it overnight in the refrigerator.
- In the morning, shape the dough into a boule and proof it for 2-3 hours at room temperature. Pre-heat the oven to 460˚F (240˚C).
- Bake the loaf for 20 minutes at 460˚F (240˚C), then for another 25 minutes at 430˚F (220˚C).
- This formula is part of the sample formulas included with the BreadStorm software.
- Jacqueline made the bread on that particular day with fine whole wheat form Fairhaven Organic Flour Mill in Washington State which I had given her. As she was mixing it, she reflected that the dough was much drier than it is with the organic whole wheat from Bob's Red Mill which she normally uses. She had to up the hydration to 82.5%. Different flours absorb water differently, so she was expecting having to adjust the hydration. She started by adding 1% water and increased the amount incrementally to 2.5% (8 g) until she got the consistency she was looking for.
- A lovely bread with a nutty flavor. The taste of the grain shines through as well.
Dado's Dough for Karelian Pies Dado's notes
Karelian pies are traditionally filled with one of two fillings: leftover mashed potatoes, or leftover sweet-rice porridge.
1. In a bowl, mix all ingredients. The dough will be firm.
2. Shape the dough into a cylinder (shaped like a rolling pin, with diameter approximately 4 cm).
3. Cut slices from the cylinder that weigh about 15 grams each.
4. Use a rolling pin that's tapered on the ends to roll the slices into thin disks, each with a diameter of approximately 10-15 cm.
5. Put some filling in the center, and fold the sides in, nipping the folds into the traditional wave shape.
6. Bake at 300ºC/575ºF (or higher) for 5-7 minutes.
7. Brush with melted butter before they cool.
8. Store in the refrigerator in airtight containers for up to 10 days.
- The rice pies are filled with a porridge made of 100% sweet rice to 250% milk to 250% water. We buy the rice at our local Vietnamese market.
- The potato pies are filled with mashed potatoes (made as rich or as lean as one likes when it comes to milk, butter, and cream).
- The pies are served with a sauce made of chopped hard-boiled egg mixed with butter. The ratio is to one's taste. Dado and I usually prefer it light on the butter.
- These little pies are utterly addictive and I can't decide whether I like the potato ones or the rice ones better. Definitely a must-make!
Dado's Pita Dado's notes and suggestions:
Scaling the formula to a yield of 420g gives four pitas of approximately 100g each.
- Mix all the ingredients until they are fully amalgamated. Let rest for 30 minutes.
- Stretch and fold. Let ferment for 60 minutes.
- Divide the dough into pieces of 100 g.
- Put the pieces on a sheet, and cover with plastic, to avoid crust from developing.
- Put the sheet in the refrigerator for 12-36 hours.
- Preheat the oven to 260 ºC (500 ºF).
- Dust the counter with a generous amount of flour.
- Shape each piece into a flat thin disk (this takes practice, don't give up after first failures!).
- Let the pieces proof for 20-30 minutes.
- Transfer the pieces onto a baking stone, and bake for about 5 minutes
- Let the pitas cool down for 5 minutes, before filling them with all manner of goodness. In our house, we like to stuff them with ten tasty ingredients: homemade hummus, leaves of fresh spinach, shaved carrot, thickly sliced red cabbage, thinly sliced red onion, sliced hardboiled eggs, grilled slices of Cypriot haloumi cheese, chopped parsley, tahini (drizzled), and olive oil (drizzled).
It’s cherry season! I never get tired of eating them one by one, but for something different, I took a pound of dark, firm sweet cherries and baked them into a schiacciata.
Wait… a what? Say: skya-CHA-ta. Think: a Tuscan classic (often made with grapes) whose name is Italian for “squashed.” See: a golden flat bread, similar to focaccia, bejeweled with juice-oozing fruit. Taste: the sweetness of cherries, rosemary, and anise against the backdrop of an olive-oil scented bread, wonderful for breakfast or a snack.
The cherry version is a bit more messy than the grape version because pitting the cherries (and for heaven’s sake make the small investment in a cherry pitter) allows their juice to escape into the dough as you are mixing them in, making the dough both wetter and pinker. I did not find this to be especially troublesome, but an alternative to mixing the fruit in would be to sandwich it between two layers of flattened dough.