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Submitted by dmsnyder on August 10, 2008 - 5:23pm Anis Bouabsa's baguettes
Anis-Boabsa-baguettes
Anis-Boabsa-baguettes Crumb Last month, Janedo visited the bakery of Anis Bouabsa in Paris. This young baker had won the prize for the best baguettes in Paris this year. Jane was able to acutally meet M. Bouabsa, and he generously shared his formula and techiniques with her, which she then generously shared with us at TFL. See her blog topic: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/8066/great-baguette-quest-n%C2%B03-anis-bouabsa Eric (ehanner} and Howard (holds99} have successfully made baguettes from the recipe I extracted from Jane's notes. I attempted them once with poor results, but that was while on vacation, in a rented house on the Oregon coast. I was eager to try these baguettes again with my familiar home oven and equipment. I was happy with the results, although not completely. Formula for Anis Bouabsa's Baguettes Flour 500 gms (about 3.85 cups of AP flour) Mix ingredients and knead. Ferment for 1 hour, folding every 20 minutes. Refrigerate for 21 hours. Divide right out of refrigerator and pre-shape. Rest for one hour. Shape. Proof for 45 minutes. Score and Bake at 250C (480F) for 20-25 (?) min. Notes: The dough was initially quite gloppy. I did a few french folds with minimal change in it. I then placed it in a covered glass bowl and folded every 20 minutes for an hour. Even before the first of these, after a 20 minute rest, the dough had come together nicely. It was still a bit sticky, but the gluten was forming surprisingly well. After the 3rd folding, I refrigerated the dough for 22.5 hours, then proceded per the recipe above. The dough actually almost doubled in the refrigerator. It continued to form bubbles after preforming and the formed baguettes rose to about 1.5 times during proofing. I baked with steam at 460F with convection for 10 minutes, then for another 10 minutes at 480F without convection. I let the loaves rest in the turned off and cracked open oven for another 5 minutes. I got nice oven spring and bloom. One of the loaves burst along the side. In hindsight, I probably didn't seal the seam well enough in forming it. The crust was more crunchy than crackly - a bit thicker than standard baguettes. The crumb was fairly open with a cool, tender/chewy mouth feel. The taste was not bad but not as sweet as classic baguettes. I wonder why. I'm going to have some tonight with chicken cacciatore (made yesterday), buttered broad beans and fedelini. Matter of fact, I better go get it all going! David
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Great Baguettes
Love the crumb on those baguettes and many thanks for the thorough write-up and recipe.
FP
Thanks, FP!
I was pleased with the crumb myself.
I've struggled with baguettes using several different recipes. I think the improvements I've seen have been mostly due to my starting to get the feel of the "iron hand in a velvet glove" when handling the dough. I must emphasize "starting."
I'm glad you found the write-up useful. You've made some pretty nice baguettes yourself, as I recall. This is a recipe worth trying, I think.
David
Handling Baguettes
I know what you mean about dough handling especially with baguettes. I'm a long way off getting a consistent baguette. My main problem at the moment is in the oven. Baking on a circular pizza stone does not lend itself well to long thin baguettes and pretty much rules out any covered steaming (no tight seal unless I'm using an upside down bowl and baking a boule-shaped bread) Would definitely like to give this recipe a try though.
FP
I think the problem lies
I think the problem lies with the kind of oven used rather than being the quality of dough used in the circular pizza base in this particular case. Why not explore the new oven types that are available on international level over various internet destinations using the php shopping cart software.
I am desperately trying to
I am desperately trying to find the time with NO success to do a write up about some sourdough + yeast baguettes using Anis's techniques. The flavour is wonderful!!!! Since you said the flavour wasn't that great with these ones, maybe you are just a die hard sourdough lover like myself. The sourdough added the flavour and the yeast, the lightness (though not as light as a full yeast baguette, but who cares). They were wonderful the next day toasted and it's rare that I like baugettes the next day.
Your baguettes do look lovely. I realized that the incisions do have to be deep to really get nice oven bloom (at least in my oven). And the stone has to be very well heated. They also need longer baking than I would have imagined. Anis made his apprentice put some back on the oven even though I thought they looked great. Then when I made them, I realized quickly that they LOOK finished but aren't!
I'm sure you'd love the flavour better with real T65 organic flour.
Jane
Sourdough baguettes
Hi, Jane.
I'd love to hear how you convert Anis' baguettes to soudough. I do confess to being "a die hard sourdough lover."
David
Scoring baguettes
Hi, Jane.
I'm progressing with scoring, I think, but I need to score a few thousand more baguettes to automotize the strokes. For what it's worth, here is what I think I've learned:
1. The lame blade should be held at a 45 degree angle to the surface of the loaf.
2. The depth of the cuts does not have to be super deep. 1/4 - 1/2 inch.
3. The cuts should not be too long. About 5-7 cm seems right.
4. The cuts should angle only slightly from the long axis of the loaf.
5. The cuts should overlap about 1/4 of their length.
None of the pictured baguettes had perfect scoring, in my opinion. The middle one looks best to me, except for rule #1. I held the lame too close to 90 degrees. The loaf on the right was better, except it violated rule #4.
I downloaded most of the videos of Prof. Calvel's lessons from the CIA (Culinary Institute of America.) I watched him scoring baguettes over and over. He uses a French lame with a curved blade. His strokes are very fast and firm. He holds the lame with the concavity toward him. With each stroke, he does a little wrist turn which lifts the cut flap up from the surface of the loaf a bit, I think. I suspect that's the way to get an ear and good grigne. That's the next refinement of technique I want to shoot for.
The link to these videos is:
http://www.ciaprochef.com/fbi/podcasts/BreadAndBaker.html
BTW, the order page lists the price per segment as $4.95, but the price in the "shopping cart" was only $3.95.
David
Damn, You're GOOD!
David,
From where I'm sitting it looks like you've "nailed it"...Big Time. You should feel very good. You managed to figure it out via reverse engineering. Thanks for keeping at it and expecially for sharing your techniques and recipe. They're beautiful.
Howard - St. Augustine, FL
Thanks, Howard!
David
First the baguettes then the chicken
Your baguettes look beautiful inside and out. Sorry you're not overly excited about the flavor, I wonder if Jane's SD recipe might please you more. They are gorgeous though and I'm sure would please most anyone who tried them. Thanks for the post.
About the chicken cacciatore...I always make mine the day before we eat it because it's best that way, same as osso bucco. Is that what you do too? Did you ever sizzle up some pancetta to start your cacciatore? Yum. Did you mix the broad beans with the fedelini or were they two separate side dishes? The whole meal sounds sooo good. Your baguettes must have been perfect with this dinner.
I've been getting Rancho Gordo's Giant Lima Beans and other beans and we just love them. Is Rancho Gordo near you? They are a great source of organic dried beans and if you buy as much as you need at one time the cost is not as bad because the postage is always $3.00. I think that's right. weavershouse
Thanks, weavershouse!
The chicken cacciatore recipe I use is from "The Artisan" website. It's wonderful. I agree about most braised dishes tasting better the next day.
The broad beans were not shelled. They were very young and fresh from a farmers' market. The fedelini was wonderful with the cacciatore sauce.
I don't know Rancho Gordo, but I'll check it out. Thanks! My wife is a serious bean lover.
David
Lovely
What else can I say?
Thanks, Pat!
I'm still working on my "mental mis en place." It sort of flickers still. Loose connection somewhere.
David
Another trick
When slashing - your elbow does not flex. It stays in position. This has helped me.
Of course, I'm busy sticking my hand into a searing hot tandoor these days. Makes me long for the cooler days of fall when I'll get back to regular baking...
Pat