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Anis Bouabsa's baguettes

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dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Anis Bouabsa's baguettes

 

Anis-Boabsa-baguettes

Anis-Boabsa-baguettes Crumb

Anis-Boabsa-baguettes Crumb

 

Last month, Janedo visited the bakery of Anis Bouabsa in Paris. This young baker had won the prize for the best baguettes in Paris this year. Jane was able to acutally meet M. Bouabsa, and he generously shared his formula and techiniques with her, which she then generously shared with us at TFL. See her blog topic: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/8066/great-baguette-quest-n%C2%B03-anis-bouabsa Eric (ehanner} and Howard (holds99} have successfully made baguettes from the recipe I extracted from Jane's notes. I attempted them once with poor results, but that was while on vacation, in a rented house on the Oregon coast. I was eager to try these baguettes again with my familiar home oven and equipment. I was happy with the results, although not completely. Formula for Anis Bouabsa's Baguettes Flour 500 gms (about 3.85 cups of AP flour) Water 375 gms (about 13.25 oz or about 1-2/3 cups) Yeast 1/4 tsp (for instant yeast) Salt 10 gms (about 2 tsp) Mix ingredients and knead. Ferment for 1 hour, folding every 20 minutes. Refrigerate for 21 hours. Divide right out of refrigerator and pre-shape. Rest for one hour. Shape. Proof for 45 minutes. Score and Bake at 250C (480F) for 20-25 (?) min. Notes: I used King Arthur French Style Flour, filtered tap water, Balene Sea Salt and SAF instant yeast. The dough was initially quite gloppy. I did a few french folds with minimal change in it. I then placed it in a covered glass bowl and folded every 20 minutes for an hour. Even before the first of these, after a 20 minute rest, the dough had come together nicely. It was still a bit sticky, but the gluten was forming surprisingly well. After the 3rd folding, I refrigerated the dough for 22.5 hours, then proceded per the recipe above. The dough actually almost doubled in the refrigerator. It continued to form bubbles after preforming and the formed baguettes rose to about 1.5 times during proofing. I baked with steam at 460F with convection for 10 minutes, then for another 10 minutes at 480F without convection. I let the loaves rest in the turned off and cracked open oven for another 5 minutes. I got nice oven spring and bloom. One of the loaves burst along the side. In hindsight, I probably didn't seal the seam well enough in forming it. The crust was more crunchy than crackly - a bit thicker than standard baguettes. The crumb was fairly open with a cool, tender/chewy mouth feel. The taste was not bad but not as sweet as classic baguettes. I wonder why. I'm going to have some tonight with chicken cacciatore (made yesterday), buttered broad beans and fedelini. Matter of fact, I better go get it all going! David

Comments

foolishpoolish's picture
foolishpoolish

Love the crumb on those baguettes and many thanks for the thorough write-up and recipe.

FP 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I was pleased with the crumb myself.

I've struggled with baguettes using several different recipes. I think the improvements I've seen have been mostly due to my starting to get the feel of the "iron hand in a velvet glove" when handling the dough. I must emphasize "starting."

I'm glad you found the write-up useful. You've made some pretty nice baguettes yourself, as I recall. This is a recipe worth trying, I think.


David

foolishpoolish's picture
foolishpoolish

I know what you mean about dough handling especially with baguettes.  I'm a long way off getting a consistent baguette.  My main problem at the moment is in the oven.  Baking on a circular pizza stone does not lend itself well to long thin baguettes and pretty much rules out any covered steaming (no tight seal unless I'm using an upside down bowl and baking a boule-shaped bread)  Would definitely like to give this recipe a try though.  

FP 

Doc Tracy's picture
Doc Tracy

David-I just mixed this dough up along with a small pinch of rye flour. I'm in the middle of my folds now. After shaping, how long did you let rise? Did you let it come to room temp before or after shaping?

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

See the procedures in the original post.


After all the folds, you refrigerate for 21 hours, then:


Divide right out of refrigerator and pre-shape. Rest for one hour.


Shape.


Proof for 45 minutes.


David

Doc Tracy's picture
Doc Tracy

I can't get the pictures to attach right now with my iPad but the bread was amazing! Best French bread I've ever tasted, really! I will never buy Safeway bread again! I used 1 cup high protein flour, the balance KA flour and we loved the chewy crumb, crispy crust. We've eaten all but one of the four mini baguettes since yesterday morning, just the two of us. I warmed a frozen one for lunch today, 20 minutes at 200 degrees. Thanks, all!

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

David


P.S. I hope you get your photos up.

Janedo's picture
Janedo

I am desperately trying to find the time with NO success to do a write up about some sourdough + yeast baguettes using Anis's techniques. The flavour is wonderful!!!! Since you said the flavour wasn't that great with these ones, maybe you are just a die hard sourdough lover like myself. The sourdough added the flavour and the yeast, the lightness (though not as light as a full yeast baguette, but who cares). They were wonderful the next day toasted and it's rare that I like baugettes the next day.

Your baguettes do look lovely. I realized that the incisions do have to be deep to really get nice oven bloom (at least in my oven). And the stone has to be very well heated. They also need longer baking than I would have imagined. Anis made his apprentice put some back on the oven even though I thought they looked great. Then when I made them, I realized quickly that they LOOK finished but aren't!

I'm sure you'd love the flavour better with real T65 organic flour.

Jane 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Jane.

I'd love to hear how you convert Anis' baguettes to soudough. I do confess to being "a die hard sourdough lover."


David

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Jane.

I'm progressing with scoring, I think, but I need to score a few thousand more baguettes to automotize the strokes. For what it's worth, here is what I think I've learned:

1. The lame blade should be held at a 45 degree angle to the surface of the loaf.
2. The depth of the cuts does not have to be super deep. 1/4 - 1/2 inch.
3. The cuts should not be too long. About 5-7 cm seems right.
4. The cuts should angle only slightly from the long axis of the loaf.
5. The cuts should overlap about 1/4 of their length.

None of the pictured baguettes had perfect scoring, in my opinion. The middle one looks best to me, except for rule #1. I held the lame too close to 90 degrees. The loaf on the right was better, except it violated rule #4.

I downloaded most of the videos of Prof. Calvel's lessons from the CIA (Culinary Institute of America.) I watched him scoring baguettes over and over. He uses a French lame with a curved blade. His strokes are very fast and firm. He holds the lame with the concavity toward him. With each stroke, he does a little wrist turn which lifts the cut flap up from the surface of the loaf a bit, I think. I suspect that's the way to get an ear and good grigne. That's the next refinement of technique I want to shoot for.

The link to these videos is:

http://www.ciaprochef.com/fbi/podcasts/BreadAndBaker.html

BTW, the order page lists the price per segment as $4.95, but the price in the "shopping cart" was only $3.95.


David

davidg618's picture
davidg618

I just downloaded four of the videos offered. They are great.


David G

d.sikes's picture
d.sikes

I thank you for the info on scoring, I have been at 90 degrees with bad results the 45 degree angle makes a lot of sence.

I recently did a batch of the Anis Boabsa's baguetts. the scoring sucked but the bread was great. It was so easy to form after the 21 hrs of cold fermentation. I actually made them too long for my peel and stone. but it was so cool being able to form perfect  long Baguetts to put in the Couche that it was worth it. I had to mush them a bit so they did not overflow my oven stone.

Attached is a pic of this attempt. The Baguettes had a great open crumb with large irregular voids. the picture doesent do it justice I ripped a piece off so the end is not well shown.

Made a great sandwich 

1  6" baguette halved.

1  fresh fennal hot pork sausage grilled and split for last few minutes

2 slices of fresh ripe tomatoes 1/4 in.

Red leatuce

Sliced grilled onions

Mayonnaise 

Whole grain Dejon Mustard

Butter

Split bread, butter

Grill till slightly colored with grill marks

spread then layer of Mayonnaise on grilled buttered bread, not too much

Place tomateos, and Red leatuce on each side

Place split sausage on prepared baguettes

Add grilled onions on sausage, spread mustard on sausages

Salt and Pepper to taste

Fold over and enjoy!

David S

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

holds99's picture
holds99

David,

From where I'm sitting it looks like you've "nailed it"...Big Time.  You should feel very good.  You managed to figure it out via reverse engineering.  Thanks for keeping at it and expecially for sharing your techniques and recipe.  They're beautiful. 

Howard - St. Augustine, FL

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder


David

weavershouse's picture
weavershouse

Your baguettes look beautiful inside and out. Sorry you're not overly excited about the flavor, I wonder if Jane's SD recipe might please you more. They are gorgeous though and I'm sure would please most anyone who tried them. Thanks for the post.

 

About the chicken cacciatore...I always make mine the day before we eat it because it's best that way, same as osso bucco. Is that what you do too? Did you ever sizzle up some pancetta to start your cacciatore? Yum. Did you mix the broad beans with the fedelini or were they two separate side dishes? The whole meal sounds sooo good. Your baguettes must have been perfect with this dinner.

 

I've been getting Rancho Gordo's Giant Lima Beans and other beans and we just love them. Is Rancho Gordo near you? They are a great source of organic dried beans and if you buy as much as you need at one time the cost is not as bad because the postage is always $3.00. I think that's right.                      weavershouse

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

The chicken cacciatore recipe I use is from "The Artisan" website. It's wonderful. I agree about most braised dishes tasting better the next day.

The broad beans were not shelled. They were very young and fresh from a farmers' market. The fedelini was wonderful with the cacciatore sauce.

I don't know Rancho Gordo, but I'll check it out. Thanks! My wife is a serious bean lover.


David

proth5's picture
proth5

What else can I say?

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

I'm still working on my "mental mis en place." It sort of flickers still. Loose connection somewhere.


David

proth5's picture
proth5

When slashing - your elbow does not flex. It stays in position.  This has helped me.

Of course, I'm busy sticking my hand into a searing hot tandoor these days.  Makes me long for the cooler days of fall when I'll get back to regular baking...

Pat

Eli's picture
Eli

I made a batch today (first time). Let me restate that. I made a batch based on the same measurements minus the commercial yeast. I see in your description you state it has a, "chewy mouth" and crust a little thicker than your traditional version. Mine has a that chewy texture and I used all purpose instead of bread flour. I am wondering if the bread flour in the preferment changed the crumb.


I used 215 grams of preferment (made 20 hours earlier and with bread flour).


They have a great taste and the crust is a little thicker than a store baguette. I had some issues with getting them into the oven (well, many issues). The crust kind of shatters like a thin hard candy when you bite, which I really like.


Anyway, you, Eric, Mark? Any thoughts?


Eli


www.elisfoods.wordpress.com


 


 


 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, Eli.


Is your question "does using bread flour in sourdough starter yield a different crumb in the bread than using AP flour in the starter?"


If your starter was 215 gms (which means 100 gms or so of flour, actually) and you added it to 500 gms of flour, I'd say the difference between AP and Bread flour in the starter would be negligible.


David

m2scq's picture
m2scq

First of all, thank you for providing the cup measure for the recipe.  I have not gotten my scale so the volume measure is really helpful.  I tried to follow the recipe as much as I can.  However I am very eager to put my new wild starter (it was ready to use four days ago.  thank you jane for all the help.) to use that I replaced the instant yeast in the recipe with 1/4 cup of my pet.  I also added 1/3 cup more water.   I am new to sourdough so I am not used to all the shaping, scoring, etc.  Here's the result of my first attempt.



I have not gone through the shaping and scoring tutorials...I will eventually.  I did not use a baking stone.  Is baking stone critical to helping the bread rise?  My bread did not seem to rise like in most of the pictures on this site.  I know there's a lot of other variables that contribute to this, any pointers would be appreciated.


By the way, here's the photo of the crumb:



I loved the taste of the bread.   Hopefully, attempt #2 will be better.  Thanks again.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, m2scq.


So, your baguettes are all sourdough?


I'd say your baguettes are outstanding, especially considering it's your first trial of a new recipe and you are new to sourdough! The crumb looks excellent - nice holes. I must have made 2 dozen or more baguettes before I started getting a crumb like that. The scoring will come with attention to method and practice, practice, practice.


Most feel that a baker's stone helps keep the oven temperature more constant and helps with oven spring. However, there are also contrary opinions. I'm in the majority, personally, but there are certainly good bakers who do without stones.


Looking forward to seeing more of your breads.


David

m2scq's picture
m2scq

You are very kind.  Yes, these baguettes are all sourdough.  Ever since my starter was ready for use, I have been working with it along with trying to convert my bread recipes to sourdough.  So far, it's been quite addicting to make sourdough bread.  I have been making sourdough bread for four days in a row, experimenting and such.  I can't recall having used so much flour before. :) 


I have a pizza stone but it's too small for bread such as these.  I must look into getting a baker's stone. 


Thanks again. 

gaaarp's picture
gaaarp

I set up a Group Bake on Facebook for this week, using Greenstein's French Baguette recipe.  It's a fairly straightforward recipe, and since a lot of the bakers in the group are novices, I thought we'd start with something simple.  That said, for my own baguettes, I decided to try Anis Bouabsa's recipe, as I've wanted to try it since I read about it here.


I was surprised at how slack this dough was.  I knew it would be, from what I've read about it, but handling it was still a shock.  I followed the instructions and David's hints. and was really pleased with the results.



 


These were easily the best-tasting baguettes I have ever had.  And the crumb, well just see for yourself:



 


I am going to make the Greenstein baguettes with some friends tomorrow (sort of a mini baking class at my house -- and I'm being compensated with really good wine!).  But I think the Anis baguettes may be the new standard.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Since you seem to enjoy experimenting, you might want to also try Gosselin's baguette formula. Like Bouabsa's, it is a slack dough compared to traditional 65-66% hydration baguettes and it also involves an overnight cold fermentation. The Gosselin formula was what Reinhart modified to develop his pain a l'ancienne in BBA.


If you want to try it, LMK. There are a few tricks I've learned wrestling with this formula. Personally, it has produced the best-tasting baguettes I've made.


David

breadbakingbassplayer's picture
breadbakingbass...

Here's my version...  It's sort of a hybrid of Anis Bouabsa's and Reinhart's Pain Ancienne...


Here's the link to my original thread with recipe: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/10546/facebook-group-bake-french-baguettes-22-282009


 


Tim



margieluvschaz's picture
margieluvschaz

Thanks for posting your version.  I'm going to try it tonight!  I love your loaves- beautiful!


Margie

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Let us know how they turn out.


David

DoctorChef's picture
DoctorChef

This actually sat in the fridge for almost 60 hours (something came up)


 


I am very novice and am having fun


 


blackbird's picture
blackbird

How I envy all of you, eh !!!!!!!!  Thanks for posting.  I've made notes and must get this underway in the near future.


Robert in Anchorage


 

rainwater's picture
rainwater

I have found Anis Boubasa's baguette recipe to be the best pizza dough for me.....When I make pizza dough, I use bread flour instead of AP flour.  I use 1 tsp. instant yeast instead of 1/4 tsp.  ....and I add 3/4 of 1/4 cup (weird measurement) olive oil.  This is a suprising very good pizza dough......

seki's picture
seki

The oil measurement becomes simpler if you remember that there are 16 tablespoons in a cup. 3/4 of 1/4 cup is 3/16 cups, so 3 tablespoons!

rainwater's picture
rainwater

Photo of pizza....the  crust is very  crispy and  light......I really appreciate this Anis  Boubasa recipe.  My  baguettes come out very well using his recipe. 

mmdione's picture
mmdione

I would like to thank you for this very inspiring post. This baguette was the best I've tasted so far in this pasrt of the globe. And the great news about it was how easy and straightforward the steps were.


I need to practice the scoring for an appealing look, nevertheless the crust was delicious.






Thanks again


Dione

cake diva's picture
cake diva

I made this recipe last week and I must say I didn't get the flavor that everyone is talking about.  It was probably the blandest bread I've made so far (I'm wondering now if I had somehow forgotten to add the salt).  The dough was also so slack that it turned into a ciabatta shape.  I did get the crumb (holes and sheen).  I'll give it a second go.

Sigmund's picture
Sigmund


 


Thanks for inspiring post! This is my first try, and in the quest for a proper french baguette, I agree with the rest that these have great taste. I do have a little training to undergo in order to get the shaping right (obviously), but I'm very pleased with the holes and the taste. Used 3,5 dl water to 500 grams of flour.


 


 

david.eaton's picture
david.eaton

I got no rise at all. Basically a dead lump. Not the ingredients, as they're all fresh and have yield two good loaves today. I went very light on the kneading and wonder if I went too light. 


 


Any thoughts?


 


Thanks!


 

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, David.


If you followed the recipe, the bread should turn out well. Is it possible you forgot to add the yeast?


The dough may not rise much in the refrigerator. I've found this depends on the temperature of the dough when you finish mixing it. Did you use cold water? If so, try 70-80F water.


Most of the increase in dough volume occurs with the final proofing of the loaves and with oven spring. You have to be gentle in shaping to avoid squashing all the bubbles.


I hope these thoughts help. 


David

david.eaton's picture
david.eaton

Hi David,


Thanks for the response. I added everything correctly. I suspect I lost faith too soon and didn't anticipate that the most significant rise would come in the proofing and in the oven. I'll try again.


 


Thanks,


-David

Maeve's picture
Maeve

I have avoided baguettes because I could never get a good slash going (I know, I just need to practice on hundreds of baguettes every day, right?  :))


 


This recipe was so amazingly easy!  The mixing, chucking it in the fridge, the pre-forming, it's all so simple.  The only slightly complicated thing is factoring out what time you actually want to bake them.


 


Also, I tried a ceramis knife for slashing, dunno if it's the dough is easy to slash or that knife just slashes anything, but those were my best slashes ever.  (yes, I know, I still need practice :))


 


I used King Arthur Bread Flour, instant yeast, kosher salt and filtered well water.  I am definitely making these again.  I think I'll try it for pizza dough tomorrow night.


 



 


sorry, don't have any crumb pics, family attacked the bread before I could get any.  :)

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

Just as I was feeling more comfortable about baking, my latest batch of Baguettes hardly rose at all. Same recipe/procedure, different flour. Flat, lovely crust, just OK crumb but flat.

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

David, thanks from downunder David for your efforts and also those of Jane and the rest of the team. I am experimenting at home with a conventional fan forced electric oven, available flours and your version of producing Anis baguettes. Tonight I used plane white flour to make 2. One was placed on a rack in a sealed fish baker that provided steam for the first 10 mins. The second was on the top shelf, with NO steam. The first was much better. I have another mix in the frig for the morning but using 80% Pasta Dura flour and 20% Wholemeal to get a mix of 14% protein BUT I have no idea re ash content or whether it comes from soft or hard cherry wheat. Tonights results suggest that the steam component in the cooking makes much better bread. So how do others manage to make the steam? I hope to be able to post pics after the next batch.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, winemaker01.


If you search TFL on "steaming" or "oven steaming" you will find a large number of discussions. Many methods are used.


I've not heard of any one using a "fish baker" before. Is this like a "fish poacher?" Is it metal? I assume you finish baking in the base after removing the cover.


David

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

Thanks David. I guessed that there was probably some stuff on steaming on TFL but I was more interested in how you achieved it since I am using the same recipe. Hopefully I can look about TFL tomorrow when rain is forecast about here which will stop me pruning outside. Last nights baguette was perfect for breakfast this morning and I will shove the second batch in when I come in for coffee. I don't normally have such a long coffee break but I have someone coming to do a special tasting about then. I am renting a house in the Santa Cruz mountains in early Nov so hope to get this under control by then. My device is a fish poacher.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

Hi, winemaker101.


Baking the baguettes pictured, I believe I generated steam by pouring water into a pre-heated cast iron skillet placed on the bottom oven shelf.


The thing is that I've used many different methods over time. I've decided that I need to think more about individualizing the steaming method and quantity and length of steaming according to the characteristics of the bread. My thoughts are still ... fermenting. I don't want to share them when they are half-baked.


David

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

I have struggled with my fanforced oven and steam. Tried many things but today I came across this video: http://sourdough.com/video/baking-dom-steam-oven-technique so this afternoon I have made two batches that are now in the frig ready for tomorrow. The only difference is that I am comparing two different organic unbleached white flours. Stay tuned. 

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

Hi David,


 


I saw a write up by you on steaming with volcanic rocks but can't find it again. Is there a link/reference please?


 


Thanks Winemaker01

winemaker01's picture
winemaker01

Here is my crumb from Australian flour, 80% pasta dura and 20% wholemeal, all organic and hard wheat at about 14% protein and 0.6% ash. I took a pic of the loaves but accidentally deleted them but my shot of the crumb along with wine served to my guests lives on. I was very happy with this but it does not have the same big holes as Anis nor was it as gooey out of the frig. I suspect I need a little more water (carbon filtered rain water chez moi). I followed Davids recipe precisely. Flavours were great. I am getting my wine tank person to weld up a custom device for my oven that will in effect, allow me to use steam for the first 10 mins as I used here by using a fish poacher. I will explore temp and steam further over the next few months. I used a one sided razor blade as the "lame". Vanished in moments at lunch.


breadinquito's picture
breadinquito

Hi, what if instead of yeast, I use about 100 grs of 100% hydtratation sourdough? I'

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