The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Macina, giusto un pò

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JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Macina, giusto un pò

Un aggiornamento sull'ultimo mese. Dopo il fantastico paesano che potete vedere nel precedente post "Working for Favaglie Bread Baking" ho avuto un paio di settimane senza pane, o meglio di pane ne ho fatto ma è andato direttamente alle galline!

Last month update. After the great country bread you can see in the previous post "Working for Favaglie Bread Baking" I had a couple of weeks without bread, I mean I baked but the bread went directly to the hens!

Il processo è stato totalmente fuori controllo per ben due fine settimana, pane di gomma, veramente pessimo, ma alla fine ho capito cosa non andava ed è ritornato il mio pane, addirittura migliore di prima!

The process was totally out of control for two weekends, gummy bread, so bad, but I finally figured out what was wrong and my lovely bread is still here, even better than before!

Il freddo ed il nuovo lotto di farina sono arrivati in contemporanea ed hanno creato non pochi problemi. E' incredibile quanto la prima lievitazione sia sensibile alla temperatura, anche solo pochi gradi possono fare la differenza.

The cold weather and the new batch of flour arrived at the same time and they got me many problems. It's amazing how the bulk rise is temperature sensitive, even a few degrees can make the difference.

Ho dato la colpa a tutto, dal mugnaio (scusa Fulvio) al lievito ... ma la colpa era soltanto mia, mia e basta!

I blamed everything and everyone from the miller (sorry Fulvio) to the levain ... but the fault was mine!

Ieri ho riproposto il paesano con alcune variazioni, giusto per vedere cosa sarebbe cambiato. Ho provato ad esaltare al massimo l'aroma del frumento. Per fare ciò ho usato un solo lievito naturale liquido su farina bianca (perché più neutro e meno invadente), niente segale, ed ho sostituito un pò dell'ottima base di Buratto (tipo 1) con della Macina (tipo integrale).

Yesterday, I proposed again my country bread with some variations. I tried to bring out the best flavor of the wheat. To do this I used a single liquid levain feed on white bread flour (because it is more neutral and less intrusive), no rye, and I replaced some of the excellent base of Buratto (type 1, T80) with some Macina (whole).

La farina "Macina" (Mulino Marino) è il massimo per chi adora il frumento, è potente ed intensa, niente a che vedere con le altre farine integrali. E' un'integrale scura, non chiara, credo per la presenza nella miscela di grani di varietà caratterizzati da cariosside ambrata scura o rossa.

Macina flour (Mulino Marino) is the best for those who like wheat, it's powerful and intense, nothing to share with the other whole wheat flours. It's a dark whole flour, not clear or whitish, I think because of the presence in the mixture of grains characterized by a variety of caryopsis with dark amber or red color.

     

In sintesi:

  • 15% Manitoba (usata nel lievito liquido) + 25% Macina + 60% Buratto
  • Idratazione 77% (un paio di punti più alta, per compensare il W del nuovo lotto di farina)
  • Temperatura impasto e prima lievitazione 27-28°C
  • Autolisi di 50 minuti (per compensare il P/L un pò più alto del nuovo lotto di farina)
  • Impasto molto breve
Main points:
  • 15% white brea flour (used to feed the liquid levain) + 25% Macina + 60% Buratto
  • 77% hydration (a couple of point upper, to adjust the W of the new batch of flour)
  • Desired Dough and bulk temperature 27-28°C
  • Autolyse 50 minutes (to adjust the higher P/L of the new batch)
  • Very short mix

Inoltre ho migliorato decisamente tutto il processo di lavorazione, la filosofia vincente: fare meno è fare di più.Ho ulteriormente ridotto i tempi di impastamento e migliorato la tecnica di piegatura, nonchè di formatura. Praticamente faccio tutto in ciotola, compresa la formatura, non sporco niente ed il pane è fantastico.

Moreover I improved the overall baking process, the winner philosophy is: less is more. I have further reduced the mixing time and improved the technique of folding, as well as shaping. Basically I do everything in the bowl, even the shaping, all is clean and the bread is fantastic.

     

Non trovo le parole per descrivere quanto sia soffice, leggera, liscia, setosa ed umida la mollica di questi pani. Quando metti la pagnotta in verticale sul tavolo ed il coltello la taglia per metà, rompe il primo strato di crosta e poi affonda nella morbidissima parte centrale tagliandone la mollica. Senza presunzione, ma non ho mai trovato un prodotto di questa tipologia nei panifici qui in Italia, neanche dai migliori amici panettieri il cui pane è certamente buono ma nettamente diverso.

I cannot find the words to describe how soft, light, smooth, silky and moist is the crumb of these breads. When you put the loaf vertically on the table and the knife cuts to the middle, breaks the first layer of crust and then sinks into the soft middle part cutting the crumb. Without being presumptuous I never found this type of product in the Italian bakeries, not even from the best professional bakers friends whose bread is certainly good but clearly different.

       

E questa volta una foto del fondo, dopo che il pane si è raffreddato cantando.

And this time I have a shot of the bottom, after the bread cool down singing.

     

Inoltre, in questi giorni ho avuto modo di leggere "Tartine Bread" di Chad Robertson. Davvero una bella storia! Inoltre ho trovato veramente incredibili quanti punti in comune ci sono tra la mia lavorazione e quella di Chad, dalla scelta delle farina al "lievito giovane", dall'impastamento breve alle caratteristiche desiderate nel prodotto finito. Davvero un bel libro.

Moreover, these days I red "Tartine Bread" by Chad Robertson. Truly a wonderful story! I also found it really amazing how many similarities there are between my work and that of Chad, the choice of flour to the usage of what he define a "young levain", from the short mixing to the desired characteristics in the finished product. A really nice book.

Comments

louie brown's picture
louie brown

and so much useful information. Also great for those of us who like to practice our Italian!


I envy your access to all those flours, with the ability to make use of them regularly.

dmsnyder's picture
dmsnyder

The crumb is purely outstanding. That fully aerated crumb is my ideal as it only occurs with perfect gluten development, fermentation, dough handling and baking.


Your enthusiasm is well-founded.


David

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

It reminds me so much of spelt as well.  Lovely!  Just  Lovely.  A poem with bread.

arlo's picture
arlo

The flour is excellent looking. It looks so full of flavor with the flakes of bran, germ and such! Pardon me, but would it be at all comparable to American Graham flour perhaps?


The loaf looks wonderful of course too! I do look forward to your post, they're always enlightening.


 

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

It is not graham flour. Graham is a rebuilt flour.


This organic flour is from the grinding of the whole grain wheat kernel. Just one pass of the natural stone.


Giovanni


PS: Petra "conTuttoIlGrano" from Molino Quaglia is more close to a Graham flour

LindyD's picture
LindyD

That's an amazing photo of the bottom of the bread.  I'm still mystified about what causes the crackling, as sometimes I will see it and other times not  - with the same formula.


Your crumb is equally amazing - you are a very talented baker, Giovanni!

rossnroller's picture
rossnroller

That crumb is inspirational, no less.

Bertel's picture
Bertel

Ciao Giovanni!


Good to see you are still working with the Mulino flours. They are the best I found so far. May I suggest you also buy there chickpea flour. It is amazing stuff. I have bought I don't know how many different brands but there is the best. Great for making a farinata in the woodoven. Have you ever been to pizzarium in Roma? They also use Marino I think it is the buratto, very fine. They do amazing pizza, toppings can be over the top but yhe ones I had, not sure if one should call it pizza but great stuff. Io credo che non ho mai trovato un prodotto di questa tipologia nei panifici qui in Italia neanche io. ;-) Buon divertimento e Saluti!


ps. Maggari fa anche un giorno questo corso in Umbria.


 

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

I love farinata! But I've never baked it at home :(


Sure, one day I'll have a trip to Pizzarium, Gabriele is a great chef and baker. He could teach me a lot of things about "pizza in teglia con impasto ventilato". 


Ciao

Mebake's picture
Mebake

I truely admire your baking skills, Giovanni! Lovely work... What a blessing to have such a wonderful flour at hand, and a skilled baker!


 

RobynNZ's picture
RobynNZ

Hi Giovanni


When I read the words 'Mulino Marino' in this article I thought of your beautiful breads and then thought that others who have posted here might be interested in the article too. Trust you don't mind. Sounds like there is a buzz around this baker but whether it is his bread or his charisma creating it .......


http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2011/04/the-art-of-roman-pizza-learning-from-italys-famous-baker/73277/


Cheers, Robyn


Edit: I read the thread a bit more and realise that in fact you have referenced this baker already, duh! So maybe the fact that he is taking classes will be of interest to you. 

Shiao-Ping's picture
Shiao-Ping

... for the great article!


Shiao-Ping