The Fresh Loaf

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Foodborne Illness Dangers Due to Long Fermentation?

mungie's picture
mungie

Foodborne Illness Dangers Due to Long Fermentation?

I am currently earning my food sanitation certification (while I entertain the idea of selling bread in local farmers markets). As I'm going through the course, and learning about certain foods that are particularly vulnerable to food-borne pathogens, I realize that I'm often leaving such food (which generally need to be time/temperature controlled for safety) at "unsafe" temperatures for long periods of time during bulk fermentation. For example, I bulk ferment sourdough with dairy (e.g., cheese) or meat (e.g., cooked bacon, salami, etc.) overnight at around 60 degrees fahrenheit. What is your view of the risk that people may get sick by eating these kinds of breads?

Thank you in advance for your insight!

jimbtv's picture
jimbtv

I'll bite...

Long fermentations with a natural levain will tend to register acidic. These acids tend to favor certain bacterial growth that is favorable to the human gut. Adding meat and dairy to this long fermentation is asking for trouble in my opinion. I feel somewhat certain that the local health inspector would cite you for this, and personally I wouldn't risk it simply based on common knowledge as it pertains to long aerobic exposure at relatively high (higher than 40 F) temperatures.

If I were faced with your situation I would go ahead and continue the long fermentation without the meat and dairy, then add them in at the end during the final mix. Adding dairy and meat to a fermentation serves little to no flavor advantage and probably messes with the chemistry we bakers rely on for a predictable fermentation.

This is strictly my opinion and not based on any science.

 

Jim

Lazy Loafer's picture
Lazy Loafer

I always ferment dough that has dairy in it in the fridge, and don't tend to put meat in my bread. If I did, that would also ferment in the fridge.

mungie's picture
mungie

To be clear, I'm not currently selling any bread. I'm just dreaming about the possibility one day, and getting this certificate is just one step in that direction. The potential dangers of food poisoning only occurred to me because I happen to be learning about them.

I have made, for example, the pain au bacon from FWSY, which incorporates cooked bacon and bacon fat into the dough during the mix, which is followed by a 12 hour bulk ferment, then a 3.5-4 hour proof after dividing (all at around 70 degrees fahrenheit).  The pain au gruyere in Tartine Bread involves a 3-4 hour bulk ferment at 78-82 degrees, then a 20-30 minute bench rest and 3-4 hour proof at 75-80 degrees. There is no mention of any concern regarding food safety, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

gerhard's picture
gerhard

on the counter for 8 hours and would not feel better about it wrapped in fermenting dough on the other hand fully cooked bacon I would feel comfortable with.  This is my comfort level but if producing for the public you need to abide with what the local health unit requires and that may be entirely different since they regulate for broad spectrum of products rather than individual products.  In general health inspectors will err on the cautious side so I would think you may have to adjust your recipe in a way that cold fermentation can give you acceptable results.  There is always more than one road to Rome.

Gerhard

Lera's picture
Lera

asking your food service safety instructor.  They might have a different viewpoint and give you the real skinny on what is acceptable--especially for vending to the public.

Sugarowl's picture
Sugarowl

I wouldn't eat that. I also wouldn't serve it to anyone who was pregnant, nursing, and so on. I would eat bits of raw ground beef as a kid (25 years ago), but about 5 or 10 years ago there was a story about a kid who did that and died from a small amount. So depends on if you want to take that risk.

Also, if you want to sell from home (via a food cottage law) you will need to look into what kinds of bread you can sell. For example, I can't sell anything that has to be refrigerated or contains meat/cheese. That means breads with pizza like toppings and cream pies are a no-no for me. There's even a restriction about veggies and stuff. And even though our state allows it, but there are a couple of counties that still prohibit it or have their own stricter laws.

drogon's picture
drogon

The bacon is salted and cooked - fine by me. The gruyere is heat treated during manufacture then salted and aged. You shouldn't have any real issues with it, but you may need to check the local food safety people. I'd be more worried about the overall level of salt in the dough than anything else...

I hold a level 2 food safety/hygiene certificate and have my kitchen inspected by the local authority (UK, England). The tricky part for me making that would be cooking the bacon - the key words are "cross contamination" - ie. touching fresh stuff that doesn't need cooking with raw bacon contaminated hands - still, bacon is salted and fairly sterile, however... To that effect, as I make products with raw meat, I cook and assemble the raw stuff in a separate kitchen with only cooked meats or enclosed meats (e.g. pastys) going into the bakery kitchen. If the bread is cooked properly, you'll kill everything - what you might not destroy is what any bugs might produce.

I regularly make cooked ham rolls (roll slices of ham, or posh cured meats) into bread dough, cut into rolls, proof and bake) They go down a treat (except in the local hippy veggie place - ah well, their loss!)

-Gordon

AlanG's picture
AlanG

I've been in markets in Barcelona where cured hams are hanging up in the open air market.  These are ancient ways to preserve raw meats and such hams are safe to eat.  Also, very low pH is effective in preventing the growth of pathogens and I've marinated chicken and beef at room temperature for four or five hours prior to cooking on a barbecue with no ill effects.  The key issue is controlling things and cooking to a temperature that kills any stray bacteria that might be lingering (160F is the key temp here).

Bread is baked to an internal temperature of 205F which is sufficient to kill any pathogen.  As others have noted, for commercial products there are existing sanitary regulations that have to be followed.

I enjoy sushi and have never experienced any ill effects.

Thor Simon's picture
Thor Simon

I've got to ask, why are you doing such long fermentations at room temperature?  Is your culture properly fed and active?  Are you sure you're doing your builds right?  At 12 hours on my kitchen counter, dough's not really useful for much more than making something very, very flat and cibatta-like -- and that only if it was minimally mixed/kneaded and never folded during the rise.

A strong, active culture should be able to give a reasonably quick first rise at kitchen temperatures even with heavy chunks of things like cheese or sausage in the dough; if you don't think the dough's ready for shaping you can give it a second "retarded rise" in the fridge, then pull it out, shape it, and pop it back in.  Shaping cold is helpful for loose or very wet doughs anyway -- so long as you're careful not to tear them.  It's fairly easy to get a regular, noon-to-morning workflow going this way: mix, first rise for a couple of hours, into the fridge, pop it out and shape after dinner, back into the fridge to retard overnight.  Overnight on the countertop with chunks of cheese etc. seems like not a great idea.

mungie's picture
mungie

FWSY involves long bulk fermentation times (12-15 hours at room temperature of about 70 degrees, if I remember correctly for the overnight country breads) and a 3x rise. This is not how I generally choose to make my bread, but I have done it in the past and the bread proofs/springs just fine. 

Again, I am not selling bread and have no intention of doing so in the near future. That being said, when I made the bacon bread in FWSY for my family, everybody was fine (and it was very delicious). 

(Please excuse the bitmoji...). This was one of my first loaves, which followed the FWSY recipe almost exactly. (I believe it bulk fermented for 12 hours and proofed for 3 or 4 hours - granted, this was during the winter and I'm sure it would overproof if I tried to make it now using the same time frames.)

gerhard's picture
gerhard

Looks good I would have a couple of slices for breakfast. 

Gerhard