Can't seem to make a light loaf, crumb usually comes out dense compare to store bought

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image of recent cinnamon raisin bread

I don't know how they do it, how does store bought bread get that nice light fluffy airy texture? And I'm referring to all bread, whether artisan, or factory made, they all have a nice crumb with light texture when you slice it.  Instead mine is always heavy and chewy even though there is plenty of air bubbles between the crumb.  

So I recently tried a sourdough conversion of cinnamon raisin bread recipe from Peter Reinhart A Bread Bakers Apprentice.  And it came out kind of dense.  It is expected because of all the addition of raisin and walnut, but I'm talking about the crumb itself.  I guarantee if I made it without the additions, it would also be the same texture.  The recipe says it makes two loaves but I was able to fit the entire dough in a single standard 9 x 5" loaf pan. Plus I kind of wanted a higher loaf compared to the one pictured in the book.  I was expecting it to be higher but it didn't rise much in the oven.   

I'm using hard unbleached organic flour (Canadian Manitoba which I think is 13 or 14% protein) and everything else was as in the book except I used 2% milk instead of butter milk.

  • I did the levain over night (I think it was around 20% of the recipe total of flour and water)
  • then I mixed everything in the stand mixer properly until it was just sticky at the bottom, texture was good
  • I bulk fermented for about 4 hours, it rose a lot in the bowl
  • then I shaped and placed in the loaf pan (9" x 5") and proofed for about 2 hours, it reached above the lip of the pan
  • I baked it at 350F until it reached 190F, it didn't rise much in the oven considering I placed both loaves worth into a single pan

The only thing I can think of would be to 

- proof the loaf for longer before baking
- spritz top of loaf with water before baking and use pan with water to create steam in the oven
- looking at the recipes for the breads I buy many have additional wheat gluten as an ingredient. Could this be the missing key to getting that texture?  Or should I be reducing the amount of protein by using all purpose flour?  

What do you guys think? 
Should I try all of the above or just start with increasing the proof time?  I'm just afraid of over proofing.  

EDIT: Recipe is
3 1/2 cups (16 ounces) - bread flour
4 teaspoons - granulated sugar
1 1/4 teaspoon - salt
1 1/4 teaspoon - ground cinnamon
1 - egg
2 tablespoons - shortening (replaced with butter)
1/2 cup (4 ounce) - buttermilk (replaced with 2% milk)
3/4 cup (6 ounce) - water (replaced with 2% milk)
1 1/2 cup - raisins
1 cup - chopped walnuts

Sourdough modification is 
remove 20% of the flour + water to create the levain
so total is 16 ounce flour + 10 ounce water = 26 ounces
20% of that is about 5.2 ounce, that is how much levain I used to ferment overnight at room temperature
From the 5.2 ounce I split it into about 1 ounce starter + 2.6 ounce flour + 1.6 ounce water

I made sure to remove the appropriate amounts of flour and water used in the levain from the original recipe.
I bulk fermented for 4 hours and proof for 2 hours before baking.
I bake for 20 min at 350 F then rotate pan and bake for another 20 min or until internal temp of the bread reached 190F
It measured around 195 F when I took it out of the oven.  

Commercial factory breads are often made using a variety of dough conditioners that allow for a very open crumb and often amazingly short fermentation times.  Don't compare against them. I think your crumb actually looks pretty open.  If you are expecting to get an array of larger, irregularly sized holes, that's different from the crumb just being open. Yes, you can proof longer.  With your flour, maybe much longer. But that's likely to end up with a larger loaf that has a more open, but also a more even crumb. You haven't said what results you want, but all open crumbs are not alike.

You didn't write down many details that would let us assess what you are doing.  For example, you said that you expected the recipe to fill two loaf pans but it only filled one.  How much flour did you use, and what was the hydration?

Yes, steaming the oven at the start will help.  i have never gotten much help by spritzing the top with water or even painting water onto a wheat loaf, though doing so seems to be important for some rye breads.

190 deg F is low except for some highly enriched sandwich style loaves.  For a hearth bread, plan on aiming for at least 208 - 210 deg F.  A loaf pan can be a little lower. That won't change the crumb openness, though.  It's about making sure the interior is fully cooked and excess water is driven out. If you are at altitude, the target interior temperature will be lower. The crumb is established in the first five minutes or so.  350 deg F is also a pretty low baking temperature, although it depends on your oven.

To see some examples of really fine loaf pan breads with excellent crumbs, look at some of Benito's posts, especially ones from 2025.  Here's one of them.  Notice how the crumb is very open yet fairly regular.  Benny has become a master of this kind of bread (among many others):
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/76432/100-whole-wheat-sourdough-pan-loaf-black-sesame-crust

TomP

You didn't write down many details that would let us assess what you are doing.  For example, you said that you expected the recipe to fill two loaf pans but it only filled one.  How much flour did you use, and what was the hydration?

I edited the original post to add the recipe.

190 deg F is low except for some highly enriched sandwich style loaves.  For a hearth bread, plan on aiming for at least 208 - 210 deg F.  A loaf pan can be a little lower. That won't change the crumb openness, though.  It's about making sure the interior is fully cooked and excess water is driven out. If you are at altitude, the target interior temperature will be lower. The crumb is established in the first five minutes or so.  350 deg F is also a pretty low baking temperature, although it depends on your oven.

I was just following the instructions in the book, it stated to bake for 350 F however that was for half the size I was baking.  I think that's where I messed up, placing the two loaves worth into a single pan.  Also my loaf pan is glass, not sure if that makes a difference.  

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This possibility is out of left field but worth checking--perhaps your oven is not calibrated correctly and is baking too cool. 

Benny's loaves are beautiful. Here is another recipe for soft, sourdough sandwich bread from txfarmer. The crumb sure looks like store bread.

This possibility is out of left field but worth checking--perhaps your oven is not calibrated correctly and is baking too cool. 

Well my oven is kind of broken, the temperature sensor and dial no longer work properly so I've been using an oven thermometer so I can see what temperature the oven actually is.  However the problem is the opposite of being too cool, the oven can get too hot if I turn the dial up. Thankfully If I leave it a the (zero) mark it holds steady at around 350F.  

Your flour has plenty of protein. Adding wheat gluten would just make a chewier crumb. 

What I believe is missing is the development of the crumb by mixing to a good windowpane. I was able to find Reinhart's recipe online and it looks like it is really meant to be a quickly developed loaf. I believe the crumb would benefit greatly if you mixed the dough to a good windowpane before incorporating the raisins and nuts. 

Also, using buttermilk affects the extensibility of the dough because of the acidic pH. If you use regular milk, try adding a tablespoon of vinegar/lemon juice and see if that affects the dough handling and rise. 

You are right, of course. There is a link in txfarmer's post to an earlier recipe wherein she talks about extensive kneading and has pictures. The OP can benefit from her thorough instructions. 

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In reply to by Moe C

(though I visit TFL every day)

ok I will never use that one again :) thanks for pointing that out.
I'd prefer anodized aluminum but I don't have one. I do have a stainless steel pan that I never used.  I will try that first. It should conduct heat better than glass, I hope.