Short final rise and suboptimal crumb structure in baguettes
Here's my recipe, in short:
275 g strong white all-purpose flour from Meunerie Milanaise
1/3 of total flour from an 80% hydration overnight preferment
68% overall hydration
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 tsp instant yeast (and a pinch for preferment)
Make preferment and allow to sit for 8-12 hours
Mix the dry ingredients, then add the water and mix together with the preferment (thoroughly, pinch method)
Let rest for 3 hours with 5 stretch and folds comprising four movements each, spaced by 30 minutes
Preshape dough into two rough cylinders, then let rest for 20 minutes (handled with solid flour dusting)
Shape the baguettes (lightly patted across length to degas, folded sides into center and pushed in, pressed along the middle, folded sides onto each other and pressed onto each other, rolled into shape)
Baked 16 minutes at 440f with steam, then 20 minutes without steam, with door slightly ajar
The baguettes had about 15 minutes of rise time before there wasn't a whole lot left for the oven. It's pretty much always like that, and it bothers me especially since recipes always call at least for 30 minutes and sometimes for up to 2 hours. The crumb also bothers me. I'm wondering whether I have too much or not enough gluten development. I'm also wondering if I should degas more, or less, or not at all.
I'm looking for ideas, questions, and remarks about my methods. Thanks in advance :^D
Accepting your numbers as correct, without enough data to check them.
I have a number of observations:
1. Your photo looks like you "broke" the loaf rather than cutting it. The crumb doesn't look too bad to me, but I find the best way to judge a baguette crumb is to cut the loaf lengthwise.
2. Unless your kitchen is very cool, 3 hours is a long bulk fermentation for a baguette sur poolish. Over-fermentation may degrade your gluten.
3. I don't understand why you proofed such a short time. Are you saying the loaves had expanded to double or more in 15 minutes? In any case, I would cut down the bulk fermentation and lengthen the proofing. That should improve the crumb structure, all other things being equal.
4. Full-size baguettes should bake in 22-25 minutes. You don't say how you scaled yours. In my home oven, I usually scale baguettes to 250-275g. (A traditional baguette is scaled to 350g.) You are baking at a low temperature for a long time. That will result in a pale yet thick crust. I suggest baking at at least 460dF. I like a darker crust, and I bake smaller baguettes, so I bake at 480dF for about 20 minutes.
5. Your crust is pale and dull. I suggest baking in a hotter oven. You may also need more steam. (Not steaming for a longer time; a stronger burst at the start of the bake.)
Hope this helps.
David
Thanks for the reply!
1. In the picture were actually two loaves, but funnily enough it kinda looked like one that was broken in two.
2. That advice surprises me given that one of your recipes calls for a much longer bulk fermentation plus a preferment, namely the San Joaquin Sourdough Baguettes, even though I trust what you have to say. http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/32906/san-joaquin-sourdough-baguettes
3. Basically, I proofed such a short time because it was all that the loaves could take. After 15 minutes, the fingerpoke hole already bounced back partially and slowly.
4/5. Although I'd really like to use higher heat, I'm uncomfortable with more than 450f because that's apparently all my nonstick sheet can take. It's kinda sad but I'm going to try alternate methods to improve the crust with that low heat. I'm thinking steam steam, dry dry. I'm also fiddling with a longer bake time, like the one you noticed, and then a short rest in the freezer to shorten internal cooking and evaporation, and therefore drying of crumb. It may sound ridiculous, but I guess it somewhat compensates.
Regarding bulk fermentation time: The SJSD is wholly natural yeast leavened. Using commercial yeast as you did shortens the time considerable (unless only tiny amounts are used or the ambient temperature is very low).
Regarding oven temperature: Can you get another pan? Or some baking tiles? There is no way you can get a good baguette crust at 440dF, no matter how many tricks you try. (Sorry. It's a chemistry thing.)
David
Sorry to contradict you, dmsnyder, but I and lots of bakers get good crusts at 425 F, but I wouldn't want to go any lower than that. However, it is possible that his oven isn't coming fully up to temperature during the steam phase of the bake. I also don't like that the oven door is being left ajar and heat allowed to escape, so the actual temperature inside the oven cavity may not be coming up to the temperature he thinks it is.
My first suggestion is to spend a few dollars on a good oven thermometer:
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-3506-Precision-Oven-Thermometer/dp/B000BQWMTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434702853&sr=8-1&keywords=taylor+trutemp+oven+therm...
I did not assert you cannot get a "good crust" at a lower temperature. My comment was specifically in regard to baguettes. A baguette crust should be thin and crackly. I prefer it well-colored. Others may prefer it paler. In either case, I can't imagine getting a good baguette crust at 425dF. If I wanted a very pale baguette, I would bake at 450dF.
If the problem is a deficient imagination on my part, please show me.
David