For my final bake of 2025 I decided to try something I’ve wanted to for some time. I love chestnuts, when we were kids, my parents would buy them and we’d roast them. We had to shell them which wasn’t fun but really isn’t that difficult, but it was so worth it since chestnuts are just yummy. So for this Hokkaido Milk Bread I’ve added chestnuts two ways. Some are added as inclusions, chopped. The majority of them were cooked in milk and then blended. I used this “chestnut milk” as the hydration for the tangzhong. Now the chestnut milk is actually quite thick and creamy so I ended up having to add an extra 20 g of milk to the dough as it seemed too dry. The formula I’ll post below is the one reflecting the extra milk I’ve added and not my original formula. I’m certainly pleased with the appearance of this loaf. I’ll slice it tomorrow and see if I can taste the almost 200 g total of chestnuts that are in this loaf.







For one 9x4x4” loaf
Chestnut Milk
150 g chestnuts (roasted and peeled)
250 mL whole milk (250 g)
So total weight 400 g.
“Chop chestnuts into small pieces; place in a saucepan with milk. Bring to a low boil over medium heat, stirring frequently; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until chestnuts are softened.
Transfer chestnut mixture into blender and purée, staring on low and then increasing to high, until silky smooth”
Instructions
Levain
Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth.
Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.
At a temperature of 76-78ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak. For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak. The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.
Tangzhong
In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the chestnut milk and whole wheat flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl. Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature. You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.
If you plan on using a stand mixer to mix this dough, set up a Bain Marie and use your stand mixer’s bowl to prepare the tangzhong.
Dough
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the chestnut milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar and levain. Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces. Next add the flour. I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas. Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes. Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins. You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing. Next add room temperature butter one pat at a time. The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before adding in more butter. You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing to add the chopped chestnuts when you get a good windowpane. You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat. Mix until the chestnuts are well incorporated.
To develop by hand, melt the butter and add it with the wet ingredients.
On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 4-6 hours at 82ºF ending bulk fermentation once the dough has risen 30-40%.
You can next place the dough into the fridge to chill the dough for about 1.5 hours, this makes rolling the dough easier to shape. Remember, if you do so the final proof will take longer. Alternatively, you can do a cold retard in the fridge overnight, however, you may find that this increases the tang in your bread.
Prepare your pans by greasing them with butter or line with parchment paper.
Lightly oil the top of the dough. Scrape the dough out onto a clean counter top and divide it into four. I like to weigh them to have equal sized lobes. Shape each tightly into a boule, allow to rest 5 mins. Using an oiled rolling pin roll each ball out and then letterfold. Turn 90* and using a rolling pin roll each out to at least 8”. Letterfold again from the sides so you have a long narrow dough. Then using a rolling pin, roll flatter but keeping the dough relatively narrow. The reason to do this extra letterfold is that the shorter fatter rolls when placed in the pan will not touch the sides of the pan. This allows the swirled ends to rise during final proof, this is only done for appearance sake and is not necessary. Next roll each into a tight roll with some tension. Arrange the rolls of dough inside your lined pan alternating the direction of the swirls. This should allow a greater rise during proof and in the oven.
Cover and let proof for 4-6 hours at a warm temperature. I proof at 82°F. You will need longer than 4-6 hours if you chilled your dough for shaping. I proof until the top of the dough comes to within 1 cm of the top edge of the pan. At this point the dough should have risen 130-140% in total from the start of bulk fermentation.
Preheat the oven to 350F and brush the dough with the egg-milk wash. Just prior to baking brush with the egg-milk wash again.
Bake the loaves for 50 minutes or until the internal temperature is at least 190ºF, rotating as needed to get even browning. Shield your loaf if it gets brown early in the baking process. After 50 mins remove the bread from the pan and bake a further 10 mins by placing the loaf directly in the oven on the rack with the oven turned down to 325ºF.
- Benito's Blog
- Log in or register to post comments
I love the idea of the chestnut milk. I can’t wait for you to tell us how it tastes.
I’ve done a purée with fresh cherries but never thought to do it with nuts.
Happy New Year 🎆
Ian
Thank you Ian, I’ve posted my comments and photos of the crumb now.
Happy 2026.
Benny
From another chestnut lover, I really want to see the inside and taste a slice.
Good loaf for chestnut lovers. I wonder if I’d used only bread flour and not any whole wheat would the chestnut then stand out more. Regardless, I love the flavour and texture.
Happy 2026 Pal.
Benny
Here is the crumb of the sliced loaf. Despite there being almost 25% of the total weight of the dough in chestnuts, the flavour is still subtle. That being the said, the crumb is feathery soft and light. You can definitely taste the chestnuts and I’m super happy with this final bake of 2025.
That's one great looking loaf, Benny.
When I temporarily detoured away from ryes last year, I made a highly modified sourdough version of Zachary Golper's hazelnut bread -- https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/75393/hazelnut-bread. The recipe called for homemade hazelnut milk -- essentially nuts soaked overnight in water and pureed -- in addition to hazelnut flour.
The original formula -- https://chefiso.com/p/bien-cuit-hazelnut-bread-recipe/ -- was highly enriched, with whole milk and butter and sugar added to the final dough. My niece, who was pretty much vegan, anti-dairy, and determinedly sugar-free, was living with me at the time, and I adjusted the recipe so she could try it.
The nut milk definitely helped profuse the loaf with hazelnut flavor.
Happy 2026 to everyone!
Rob
I suspect that hazelnuts would give a more distinct flavour than the chestnuts did. I'll have to try this with other nuts in the future.
Happy New Year.
Benny
Another great addition to Bennie's Beauties™! I'm especially struck by the loft you got considering how much of the solid weight is non-wheat. Wow!
TomP
Thank you for the kind comments Rob. I too was pleased with the oven spring this loaf attained especially as you said, so much of it is chestnuts.
Happy New Year.
Benny
I was able to get chestnut flour imported from Italy quite a few years ago. It was a smoky flavor and scent . I used it in a number of different breads and desserts. Because of the smoky flavor presence it had fewer dishes it could be used in. I believe I ended up discarding one last partial bag . It was an interesting experiment.
I’ve not tried nut milk. We are very partial to pecans. I think I may try the process with pecans in a sweeter bread. Thank you for the idea!
Happy New Year to you and your family and friends. 🙏
Toasted pecan milk might taste really really good in a bread like this, that is a good idea Caroline.
I did see chestnut flour at a local Korean grocery store but decided to add Chestnuts this way so that I wouldn't have to buy another bag of flour that I might not fully use. Interesting that the chestnut flour you had was smoky, I wouldn't have expected that. On the other hand, I guess if they roasted them over an open fire that might make them smoky.
Happy New Year.
Benny
“ chestnuts roasting on an open fire”. It was beautiful but limited use. I kept the bags in the freezer for several years. It was still fine I just lost interest.
I will let you know when I try the pecans. Today was pizza crusts because the kiddos are arriving tomorrow evening and my daughter said they haven’t stopped talking about “ Dammie’s pizza”!
What a beautiful crumb - it's perfect. How ingenious to use chestnuts both ways. I love the idea of the chestnut milk; you just keep outdoing yourself!
This autumn we had a lot of chestnuts from the forest so I've made a lot of products from them - cakes, frosting, jam - in many ways: roasted, unroasted, blended, crushed etc. I find that roasting is the best way to bring out the flavour of chestnuts if only a small amount of sugar is being used. One idea that might be interesting to explore is a chestnut jam swirl bread; that way the chestnut flavour would really come through. Our family favourite this season was a chocolate cake layered with chestnut frosting (chestnut jam mixed with whipped cream).
Best wishes for the year ahead!!
You are very kind Lin, thank you. How lucky to be able to collect so many chestnuts in the wild you get to eat. I love the idea you have of a chestnut jam swirled in a bread, that would be really flavourful.
Happy New Year.
Benny
Wishes for a good new year Lin with many more of your inspirational bakes.
The things you did with your chestnut glut made me salivate while reading your post!
Any good ways for peeling the chestnuts easily and neatly you can suggest?
I've tried many methods, Rene. All in all it's just laborious. If I'm going to make chestnut puree anyway, I just slice them down in half and scrape the chestnut out with a spoon (I know, not elegant, but it works). I haven't had any luck with getting whole roasted chestnuts out using any faster method - just the standard deep enough cut across the shell, roast, leave to cool only slightly covered, and then peel while warm.
Let me know if you find faster ways. We've got two huge chestnut trees here and I freeze a bag or two for later use too. It's tricky cleaning, airing, and curing chestnuts though; I learnt the hard way this autumn!
The chocolate chestnut cake was a real hit with the extended family. I'm going to give the swirl bread a try with the next frozen batch.
Looking forward to your 2026 bakes, Rene!
What a way to start the new year! The bread looks fabulous.
I also love chestnuts and making the chestnut milk puree is a great way to up the chestnut content.
My love of chestnuts is moderated a little by the difficulty I have peeling them easily and neatly. I know they're must be a really great hack for doing so out there somewhere, but so far the ways I have found online have not given me the results I want.
Thank you very much Rene. Yes peeling chestnuts is definitely a pain in the neck. I have to admit that I cheated and bought packaged organic roasted peeled chestnuts for this bake.
Happy New Year.
Benny
My family roasts chestnuts too (we just did for Xmas). This loaf is inspired and makes me weirdly nostalgic for something I've never even had! (There must be some word for that...deja new? Dunno).
I'll have to try this, and greatly appreciate the meticulous instructions!
So glad that this bake has inspired you. I’d love to see your bake if you do it.
Happy New Year.
Benny