
I hadn’t baked a Hokkaido Milk Bread in a long time since I’ve been playing around with high pff loaves which have been largely lean doughs. We have guests staying with us a few days so wanted to baked something delicious and pretty. I decided to bake a 100% organic stoneground whole wheat black sesame sourdough Hokkaido milk bread using ground black sesame seeds. This is the first time I’ve used flowers on a milk bread, I wasn’t sure how the flowers would do with an egg wash, but they did well. The egg wash goes onto the dough and then the flowers were applied without an egg wash onto the flowers themselves.








For one loaf in a 9 x 4” pan
Instructions
Levain
Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth.
Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.
At a temperature of 76-78ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak. For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak. The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.
Tangzhong
In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the milk and whole wheat flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl. Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature. You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.
If you plan on using a stand mixer to mix this dough, set up a Bain Marie and use your stand mixer’s bowl to prepare the tangzhong.
Dough
In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar and levain. Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces. Next add the flour. I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas. Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes. Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins. You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing. Next add room temperature butter one pat at a time. The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before adding in more butter. Add ground black sesame and mix until well incorporated. You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing when you get a good windowpane. You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat.
To develop by hand, melt the butter and add it with the wet ingredients.
On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 4-6 hours at 82ºF ending bulk fermentation once the dough has risen 25-40%.
You can next place the dough into the fridge to chill the dough for about 1.5 hours, this makes rolling the dough easier to shape. Remember, if you do so the final proof will take longer. Alternatively, you can do a cold retard in the fridge overnight, however, you may find that this increases the tang in your bread.
Prepare your pans by greasing them with butter or line with parchment paper.
Lightly oil the top of the dough. Scrape the dough out onto a clean counter top and divide it into four. I like to weigh them to have equal sized lobes, or have the outer two lobes be a bit lighter than the inside pair. Shape each tightly into a boule, allow to rest 5 mins. Using an oiled rolling pin roll each ball out and then letterfold. Turn 90* and using a rolling pin roll each out to at least 8”. Letterfold again from the sides so you have a long narrow dough. Then using a rolling pin, roll flatter but keeping the dough relatively narrow. The reason to do this extra letterfold is that the shorter fatter rolls when placed in the pan will not touch the sides of the pan. This allows the swirled ends to rise during final proof, this is only done for appearance sake and is not necessary. Next roll each into a tight roll with some tension. Arrange the rolls of dough inside your lined pan alternating the direction of the swirls. This should allow a greater rise during proof and in the oven.
Cover and let proof for 4-6 hours at a warm temperature. I proof at 82°F. You will need longer than 4-6 hours if you chilled your dough for shaping. I proof until the top of the dough comes to within 1 cm of the top edge of the pan. At this point the dough should have risen 130-140% in total from the start of bulk fermentation.
Preheat the oven to 350F and brush the dough with the egg-milk wash. Just prior to baking brush with the egg-milk wash again.
Bake the loaves for 50 minutes or until the internal temperature is at least 190ºF, rotating as needed to get even browning. Shield your loaf if it gets brown early in the baking process. After 50 mins remove the bread from the pan and bake a further 10 mins by placing the loaf directly in the oven on the rack with the oven turned down to 325ºF. Cool on a rack. Enjoy.
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I am tempted to buy the USA Pan Pullman loaf tin. I would like to duplicate your results with my starter!
Michael
Hi Michael, I’d be honored if you baked one of these loaves of mine. I’m not sure that I could live without my USA Pans Pullman pan.
Benny
I sliced this last evening, I haven’t tried it yet but my guests seemed to enjoy it. I just love the almost peanut buttery flavor that ground black sesame seeds add to bread.
Benny
Super bread as usual Benny. Nice to see a return of the wholewheat hokkaido, and I think the flowers on this one are the best yet, they complement the bread superbly.
-Jon
Thank you Jon for your kind words. This turned out really well and I’m not disappointed.
Benny
Hats off to you! I love the outside look! The new "dark theme" for breads ;) The crumb is gorgeous. The fermentation is imo spot on.
Thank you very much. I do love the colour that ground black sesame adds to the crumb.
Benny
You never fail to stun. How amazing are these! Love the flowers, and the crumb and taste profile - i love black sesame - are so inviting. So well done!
Thanks for your kind comments Lin, they are very appreciated.
Benny
Benny, this will be my golden standard for enriched 100% whole wheat. Nothing can top your loaf at this point. Great work!
Jay
Thank you Jay, I can say the same about your pastries, so creative.
Benny
Everything is perfect. The flowers add a touch of elegance.
Now that I’ve used my larger Pullman pan a couple of times I’m going to have to get the smaller size to finally try one of these. I have a similar size pan already that would do so I’ll start with that one.
I just baked a bread with added whole sesame seeds inside. Do you find the powder to be more intense?
I’d love to have a larger Pullman like so many TFL’ers seem to have. However, it would take so much longer to eat all that bread so I wouldn’t be able to bake as often.
I hope you do give one of these loaves a try Ian, I’d be honored if you did.
I find the ground black sesame seeds just distribute the flavour more evenly through the bread. Of course, the intensity of the flavour will be so dependent on how toasted the seeds are before they are added to your dough whether ground or not.
Benny