The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Durum Buckwheat with Toasted Groats

Danni3ll3's picture

Durum Buckwheat with Toasted Groats

When I put in my order of grains from Daybreak Mills, I included a bag of Buckwheat. Tartine 3 has a recipe for Toasted Buckwheat Groats with Crème fraîche so I took my inspiration from there. Having a litre of local yogurt in the fridge, I subbed it out for the crème fraîche, used durum wheat and some Buckwheat flour instead of what he called for, and also cut back on hydration.  The formula was also adjusted for 3 loaves.  




Makes 3 loaves



150 g Buckwheat Groats, toasted

Warm water to soak

50 g Yogurt



600 g strong bakers unbleached flour

400 g high extraction durum flour (500 g durum berries, milled and sifted)

100 g buckwheat flour (100 g buckwheat groats, milled)

50 g freshly ground flax

800 g water

25 g pink Himalayan salt

250 g levain (procedure in recipe)

Extra bran and AP flour to feed the Levain. 



Mid afternoon the day before:

  1. Toast the groats for the add-ins in a dry frying pan or the oven, and reserve for the next day.
  2. Mill the buckwheat groats for the main dough and place in a tub.
  3. Mill the durum berries and sift to obtain the needed amount of high extraction flour. Save the bran for feeding the levain. 
  4. Place 400 g of high extraction durum flour in the tub and add the unbleached flour to it as well as the freshly ground flax. Cover and set aside. Reserve the leftover high extraction flour for feeding the Levain in the evening and the next day. 
  5. Take 18 g of refrigerated starter and feed it 18 g of filtered water and 18 g bran. Let rise in a warm place. 

The night before:

  1. Before going to bed, feed the levain 36 g of water and 36 g high extraction durum flour. Let that rest in a warm spot overnight.

Dough making day:

  1. Early in the morning, feed the levain 72 g of filtered water and 72 g of durum/AP flour and let rise 4-5 hours in a warm spot. Mine doubled in 4 hours but I waited 5 hours because I wanted the autolyse to last a couple of hours. 
  2. Two hours or so before the levain is ready, put 800 g water in a stand mixer’s bowl and add the flours from the tub.  Mix on the lowest speed until all the flour has been hydrated. This takes a couple of minutes. Autolyse for a couple of hours at room temperature. 
  3. At the same time, soak the toasted groats in hot water for a half hour. They soaked up a lot of water. And I mean a lot! After the time is up, drain well and mix in the yogurt. Once the yogurt was mixed in, I started worrying about hydration thinking maybe I’ll be making soup instead of dough. Cover and set aside until the levain is ready.
  4. Once the levain is ready, add the salt, the Buckwheat Groats mixture, and the levain to the bowl. Mix on the lowest speed for a minute to integrate everything, then mix on the next speed up for 5 minutes. Amazingly, the dough pulled together nicely and didn’t turn into soup!
  5. Remove dough from bowl and place in a covered tub. Let rest 30 minutes at room temperature (73F). 
  6. Do 4 sets of stretches and folds at 30 minute intervals, then do two more sets on hourly intervals. Note that the dough was very loose initially , but I just kept folding during the first set until the dough pulled together and I couldn’t do another fold. The dough felt great for the remaking sets. After the last fold, which I did 20 minutes early because the dough seemed to be rising fairly quickly, place the dough in the fridge for 4 hours. The dough rose 50-60%.
  7. Tip the dough out on a bare counter, sprinkle the top with flour and divide into portions of ~885 g. Round out the portions into rounds with a dough scraper and let rest 45-60 minutes on the counter. 
  8. Do a final shape by flouring the rounds and flipping the rounds over on a lightly floured counter. Gently stretch the dough out into a circle. Pull and fold the third of the dough closest to you over the middle. Pull the right side and fold over the middle and do the same to the left. Fold the top end to the center patting out any cavities or big bubbles. Finally stretch the two top corners and fold over each other in the middle. Roll the bottom of the dough away from you until the seam is underneath the dough. Cup your hands around the dough and pull towards you, doing this on all sides of the dough to round it off. Finally spin the dough to make as tight boule as you can.
  9. Sprinkle half rice/half AP flour in the bannetons. Place the dough seam side down in the bannetons. Let rest for a few minutes on the counter and then put to bed in a cold (38F) fridge for 9-10 hours. 

Baking Day

  1. The next morning, heat the oven to 475F with the Dutch ovens inside for 45 minutes to an hour. Turn out the dough seam side up onto a cornmeal sprinkled counter. Place rounds of parchment paper in the bottom of the pots, and carefully but quickly place the dough seam side up inside. 
  2. Cover the pots and bake the loaves at 450 F for 30 minutes, remove the lids, and bake for another 17 minutes at 425 F. Internal temperature should be 205F or more.


The oven spring could have been a tad better especially when I increased the amount of flour compared to my usual base amount. I guess all that water that the groats absorbed had a bit of a negative effect. Next time, I need to add just enough water to cover the Groats and not add extra when it gets absorbed. 



One thing I am noticing since we have been getting warmer weather (barely above 0C (32F) but better than -20C!), is that my dough seems to be moving a lot faster than in the depths of winter even though it is the same temperature in the house. I even bulked this one in the counter to try to slow it down. Anyone else notice that the seasons affect bulk and proofing even though it’s the same room temperature?


isand66's picture

I like the idea of toasting the buckwheat and then milling.  Did you get to taste the bread yet?  Wonder if you can taste the toasted flavor.

The buckwheat does have a tendency to soak up water so probably couldn't hurt to up your hydration slightly.

Meanwhile I was mixing up a dough last night and put the mashed potatoes I was going to add in the refrigerator to cool off a bit.  Well before I went to bed my wife asks me what the bowl of mush in the refrigerator was.......well no potatoes in this bake unfortunately!  Must have been all the fresh air I got yesterday. We finally had a nice spring day hitting almost 60 F. 

Happy Baking.


Danni3ll3's picture

I was soaking. I should have also toasted the Groats used for the flour. I’ll have to remember that next time. 

No I haven’t cut into it yet but I know from past experience that the toasting of buckwheat changes the flavour. 

Its too bad about the potatoes! Reminds me of when we slave over a meal and forget part of it in the fridge!  

Our Crumb's picture
Our Crumb

Oh yeah.  I celebrated the passing of the season of Winter Crumb yesterday with a very satisfying bake and lay awake this morning (insomnia = ever my muse) composing a TFL post about how seasons seem to affect home baking more than professional baking where they can't afford to not control the bakery environment, Chad Robertson's charming and instructive anecdote in Tartine Bread notwithstanding, about rescuing a batch from SF's fickle weather. 

But that's probably as much of those thoughts as I'm going to get around to posting.  Probably.  Maybe after lunching on that bread today I'll be re-inspired.  The lesson here is that our doughs are more sensitive to the kitchen's environment than we are.  Those bugs (and their ancestors) wouldn't have dodged extinction for 3.5 billion years if they weren't keenly atuned to their environment.  Just because we ward off a household chill with extra layers (clothes, not fat :-) doesn't mean the bugs feel any different.  They were singing here yesterday on our first 70˚F day in a while.

Nice baking as always Danni.


Bread1965's picture

Hi Danni..

I hadn't heard of Daybreak Mills before your post so I looked at their site. Do they charge much for delivery and do you buy most of your basic unbleached bread flour from them too? I'm thinking of trying someone other than Arva for my next flour order. And I'm debating getting an in-home mill too. Your comment on temps made me think of my proofer. Someone posted a sale on brod&taylor proofers last fall so I bought one. Admittedly I haven't baked a bunch with it yet, but of the bakes I've used it for they really seemed to have risen much better with it  during bulk - as has my starter development. I think it will help me with consistency - especially in the winter. I'm not sure how it's going to go in the middle of a warm summer, and assume I wont' use it then but I'll see.. As to Tartine/Chad, I think his recipes are among the best I've ever made. As to this bake, your bread looks predictably amazing.. aren't you bored of being so good so often!? :)  And let me know if you deliver Fedex overnight to Toronto.. :)  Be good, frank!

Danni3ll3's picture

Its about half of the cost of the grains but I try to buy when they have their 20% off sale and that helps a bit. I do one order for the year.

No I don’t get my Unbleached flour from there. I used to buy Rogers no additives Unbleached flour from Safeway but I discovered Keynote Strong Bakers Unbleached flour at Wholesale Club. The price is just a bit more than half of the Rogers flour and it preforms just as well. 

As to the FedEx thing, I’ll have to look into that. 😉 This one tastes really good! Here is a crumb shot:

Bread1965's picture

Maybe I'll see what Costco carries.. LOVE the crumb!