The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Xmas Panettone (Massari)

mwilson's picture

Xmas Panettone (Massari)

Massari Dissapore    
Natural Yeast20.0%1004260
Egg Yolks24.0%12050.472
Egg Yolks26.0%13054.678
Orange Zest0.5%
Lemon Zest0.5%
Candied Orange30.0%1506390
Candied Citron10.0%502130


Woke up Christmas day to find a very active primo impasto.

Illustrated recipe:

Merry Christmas everyone



Debra Wink's picture
Debra Wink

Can't wait to see how it turns out, Michael.

Merry Christmas!

mwilson's picture

Thanks Debra.

Great to hear from you, it's been a few years. Happy holidays.

I cut a cross and brushed with melted butter.

Ideally I would have let it prove a little more, but man's gotta sleep!


Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

The bundled preferment looks good and tight too, but hard to judge from here.  Will you tap it or try to squeeze it or drum on it for sound to know when it's ready?  Can we tease out your plans for it?   

mwilson's picture

Cheers Mini.

Tight indeed, like a rock it is!

It was unwrapped, bathed, fed and put back to bed.

How does one knead a firm (45%) hydration dough. Treat it like pasta of course...

Season's greetings!

Xaimerafiki's picture

This looks so good! It looks good enough to eat how it is. Can't wait to see the final product! 

P.S. thanks for the reading on my post. It was very interesting.



mwilson's picture

I have posted a few pictures of the finished product (see above). No crumb as yet, I like to wait 3-4 days before making the cut!

Glad to be of service Sir.

Happy holidays

DrWolke's picture

I'm so jealous of your panettoni. ;) Many thanks for sharing your recipes and experiences with us!

Have you ever experienced the problem that the panettone had a good oven spring on its corner but not so good in the center? I managed to get some good panettoni over the last years but they never showed those big balloon-like shapes, though the 1st and 2nd doughs rise well and the gluten is stable like rubber (Massari recipe). :( Since I use the same glace like you described it once: could it be that the glace hardens too fast in the heat and inhibits the oven spring?

Unfortunately most recipes also don't say anything about the oven program - according to the temp of usually about 175 °C I guess it's top/bottom heat, not convection/fan-assisted heat, right?

Thanks again and regards


mwilson's picture

Hi Didi.

Can't say I've ever encountered the issue you describe. If your dough handles and rises as it should then yes I would look at the baking apparatus. Indeed conventional cooking/baking is the optimal (no fan). 170-175C seems to be the consensus.

Thank you for your kind words.


PalwithnoovenP's picture

This is very difficult bread to make is really your forte. I wish I could make one like this in the future too. So tall and looks really light!

mwilson's picture

I was pleased with how the mixing of the second dough went, no issues to speak of.... In the past it certainly was problematic. This formula is difficult with domestic planetary mixers!

The crumb (Camera and phone shots).

The best yet! Super tasty and shreddy...



Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

if you turn your new oven on end with the control panel under the oven.  I haven't tried it yet, I have to warn.  :)

Aren't they just beautiful?

dabrownman's picture

labor of love. Very nice all the way around.  Lots of work but well worth it at the end when it turns out this well.  This has to taste terrific!  Now it is only another year till it's panettone time again:-)  

Happy New Year Michael 

mwilson's picture

A technical feat where patience is an ingredient! Thank you for your kind words Dab.

Another year until panettone season yes, but there is panettone in another guise in Easter and the Colomba of Massari is on my to do list...

Happy new year to you and to yours.

See you on the other side...

PS. My best for Lucy, sorry to hear of her ill health. May she recover as best she can.

All the best,

Asari's picture

I am one of those users who enjoy reading and looking at all those magic Panettones , Michael you have Awesome Panettone I could not resist to not write my first comment 😉💪👍... 

Can I ask what is Malt? I see people using this in second dough of panettone like 2g , maybe its stupid question bit if you can post a foto of that Malt would be nice.. Cheers

mwilson's picture

Welcome to The Fresh Loaf.

Malt is derived from sprouted grains, typically barley. It often helps with fermentation by proving maltose sugar, either directly or by releasing it from the flour. It also steers acid production toward lactic acid.

Asari's picture

Thx Michael, 

is it ok if I ask did you ever try to use this product from Caputo called Criscito = Dried Lievito Madre? Just got 1kg and to be honest no clear informations how to activate that also not clear why should be used with regular yeast hmmm whats the point of this cause if I understand good activation also takes like 4-5 days ... For the moment I stick with mine but one day I will give it try to this one because they advertise as no more hassle refreshing every day blabla 

mwilson's picture

This product is not intended for re-activation. It is an improver, a supplement to bring a commmercial leavened dough in line with a sourdough. It is pre-fermented and dried to be used as a substitute of part of the flour in any given recipe.

Make sence now? Hence why it says what it says i.e.: "no more hassle refreshing"


Asari's picture

yes yes more clear thx 😉... and I have another question over rising panettone dough ... fiirst dough rising should be 10-12h  till tripple ...but mine is after 8 hours tripple at 26C hmm sould I wait 2h more or tripple is good sign that dough is ready? I must say after 10h it is huge and goes a bit to sour side hmm ...thx

mwilson's picture

Sounds like your starter is not balanced, especially if it is creating sourness. Once a tripling of volume has occurred you can proceed to the next dough.

Asari's picture

Thx Michael,

Not sure what you mean about balance of starter my lievito is 50% hydration refreshed every 48 hours 1:1:0,5 looks good rising and lots of activity going on , I am refreshing 3x in 12hrs before making panettone but maybe I should try next time to refresh couple of days before starting with panettone I dont know still looking for perfect result ;)...

Can I ask whats best way to store lievito with 50% hydration ? Now problem is I am going next week 7 days out of country but not sure if enough is to refresh on day I am leaving and just put in fridge :(.. I have read about it a bit but most goes over liquid lievito so just to be sure if I can put in fridge stiff one refreshed i jar like I do always?

Thx in advance


Alovick's picture

Hi Michael -

Do you ever take pH readings right after mixing primo impasto and then again after fermentation (tripling) of the primo impasto? My understanding is that my primo impasto shouldn't be below 5 pH after fermentation....but for me it consistently is. I was curious as to whether or not you have thoughts on this.

Thank you --


mwilson's picture

Hi Alex.


"Do you ever take pH readings right after mixing..."

I have done. But I am moving away from using pH meters and relying more organoleptics.


"My understanding is that my primo impasto shouldn't be below 5 pH after fermentation..."

That is correct the primo impasto should have a pH above 5 after the rising.



pH meters need calibrating, so be sure that it is working accurately.

If the pH is below 5 then your lievito is not mature and is likely to be too strong. More refreshments will probably help with that.

In terms of organoleptics, the risen dough should be pleasant and not sour in any way. A carbonic acid zing, sweetness and no lingering acid on the tongue.

What pH readings are you getting?



PS: see Massari taking pH measurements of his lievito and impasto: