The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

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Starter Preparation

Starter dough which was conserved in water for 16 hours at a regulated 20 degrees C was removed from storage and cleaned to obtain the "heart". This involved the removal of a dry crust formed on top and a wet under-layer which were then discarded. The remaining dough was pressed gently before being sliced into strips which were then allowed to soak in a bath made from sweetened water (2g sugar per litre of water). After 20 minutes the dough pieces were removed from the bath and squeezed to remove excess water before being scaled to the required weight. An equal quantity of flour, 1 part starter to 1 part flour (1:1) and 35% water were added to form a dough. This was then left to rise for 2 hours at 28-30 degrees C.

Autolyse

An autolyse process was prepared at 50% hydration using Leckford Estate bread flour (100%) and 1 percent diastatic barley malt flour. The flours were initially mixed with only part of the water to first form a breadcrumb-like texture. The remaining water was then added to allow for the formation of a dough which was allowed to rest covered with cloth until the starter was ready.

Main Dough

The remaining ingredients; salt and water were scaled and mixed. The starter dough and autolyse dough were divided into 8 roughly equal pieces and mixed together individually by hand kneading before being combined into one dough. This was again re-cut into numerous pieces which were added one by one to the prepared salt water solution with the mixer operating at speed 1. A paddle attachment was used to mix the ingredients until a dough formed that cleaned the bowl. This took approximately 5 minutes. The attachment was then changed to a dough hook before being mixed at speed 2 for a further 5 minutes.

Fermentation

The completed dough was allowed to ferment for 90 minutes at 28-30 degrees Celsius before being shaped and allowed to proof for further 5 hours at room temperature (approximately 25C).

Baking

After the proof period the dough was scored three times and transferred to a pre-heated cast iron stone before being placed into an oven at 230C. Steam was used during the first ten minutes.

Comments

"The finished loaf rose well although it is a little wide for its height. This can be contributed to a number of factors. The original formulation is designed to produce baguettes which require little strength. The flour although marketed as bread flour isn't particularly strong. The method could have been adjusted to allow for a longer bulk fermentation which would have developed more strength before being shaped."

Visual assessment and organoleptic characteristics

Golden hue and many blisters cover the crust. Creamy-white crumb. Wheaty aroma. Slight sweetness on the palate. Soft and light textured with a very subtle hint of mild acetic acidity that finishes through the nose.

 

Stats.

14% pre-fermented flour.
68% hydration.
2% salt

 

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mwilson

Since my post regarding dough rheology and the difficulties with durum wheat I have been tinkering...

I purchased 10 kilos of semola rimacinata from Italy and created a new starter spawned from my regular white lievito madre.

Procedure:

DAY1. 2200 - Refreshed and fermented for 8 hours at 28C
DAY2. 0600 - Transferred the now slightly sticky dough, wrapped and tied in cloth and left to ferment for 27 hours at 12C
DAY3. 0900 - Removed dough needed to make a loaf and reserved a piece for refreshment.

Dough:

2% sea salt
20% starter
70% water
100% flour

From mixed dough to bake was 5 hours. 

The crumb is very soft and fluffy as it should be, see video below. Crust cracked. The texture is there, I just need to work on the flavour.. 

 

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mwilson

Piergiorgio Giorilli is a baker in a league of his own. His years of experience and effortless skills speak volumes. He is a true master! I have known of Giorilli for sometime now, yet I haven’t until now made a panettone in accordance with his methods and formula.

Processing of the mother dough is a skill that requires tuition and above all else, experience. Giorilli opts to maintain his madre in water during the standard 12 hour period. While as typical, before proceeding to the first dough three refreshments are made lasting 4 hours each time.

From Giorilli.com I sourced his recipe. I adapted his formula to make two 500 gram panettoni, flavoured with the traditional sultanas, orange and citron.


Primo impasto

69g lievito madre mature
75g sugar
120g water
54g egg yolks
72g butter
240g flour

Secondo impasto

60g flour
66g sugar
4g salt
96g egg yolks
129g butter
2g malt
120g sultanas
60g candied orange peel
30g candied citron

aromatic mix x2

30g acacia honey
vanilla pod seeds
orange zest
lemon zest

panettone-crumb

For those wishing to make panettone this Christmas, this one should be your choice, it's a forgiving formula...

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mwilson

Quick post showing this mornings croissants freshly baked.

My SD starter lievito madre responsible for raising these delights.

egg washed

 

Just a small batch as I'm still practicing my laminating skills. I successfully rolled these without tearing the dough, a first! Patience is key, with hour-long rests between each turn.

------------------------------------------------------
CORNETTI / CROISSANT ROTARY WITH NATURAL YEAST BEPPE Allegretta

350__ 500 grams of flour 00 strong (I used a 380w)
105__ 150 grams of sourdough refreshed twice
10.5__ 15 grams of egg yolk
63____90 grams of sugar
10.5__ 15 grams of melted butter 
6.3____ 9 grams of salt
168__ 240 grams of water.
 flavours: vanilla, orange

Butter per sfogliata: 203, 290 grams

Procedure: Mix all ingredients until dough is smooth and homogeneous.
Chill for at least 4 hours.

Roll out the dough, collect the butter and make 3 of 3 folds as for the pastry, doing stand 1 hour each fold.
Spread, form the croissants and let rise for 16 hours at 22 °
Bake at 180 degrees until golden brown ( about 20 minutes)

 

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mwilson

Here is my interpretation of ciabatta made with sourdough.

As a general rule wetter doughs require less madre. I used 20% instead of normal 25% as per doughs made at 70% hydration.

lievito preparation:

  • lievito madre in aqua: 12hrs @ 15C
  • bath: 15 minutes in sweetened water @ 38C

formula:

20% - lievito madre
90% - '00' flour
10% - whole emmer flour
85% - water (of flour added)
02% - salt (of total flour)

I mixed to the maximum extension of the gluten (full development)

Bulk:

4hrs @ 27C. Stretch and fold every 30 minutes for the first two hours, undisturbed for the remaining two.

Prove at room temp for 4hrs or until past double.

This is super soft as I have kept lactic acid to a minimum.

I have already made this again but with 30% emmer wheat and it had a wonderful aroma, definitely some diacetyl vapourising as it cooled fresh from the oven!

 

Michael

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mwilson

This was an experiment to make a loaf ideal for toasting and to have a lightness of commercially "improved" bread leavened with just sourdough.

Lievito madre bound for 12hrs @ 18-20C.

autolyse: 80% canadian wheat, 10% white spelt, 10% light rye. 55% hydration. 12hrs @ ~20C.

Bath lievito for 20 minutes in sweetened water @ 20-22C.
1st refresh: [1]:[1.5] ([lievito]:[flour]) 28C for 4 hours.

133g lievito refreshed
620g autolyse
58.6g water
15g oil
10g honey
9.7g salt

Bulk ferment for 90 minutes @ 28C. Proof @30C for 3-4 hours or until generously tripled.

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mwilson

These buns were a make it up as you go along effort. I was still deciding on the numbers with the mixer running, working the dough I had thus far and I liberally added spices in the style of a well seasoned chef.

Having worked up a sweat mixing this dough partly by hand as well as in the mixer and the dough complete I saw I could have added more liquid. I knew the dough would tighten up a bit upon adding the dried fruit but I didn’t compensate enough. Still I was fairly pleased with finished dough considering this was an off-the-cuff, part improvised endeavour.

In keeping with the theme of improvising I picked a random weight at which to scale these. At circa 85 grams I had enough dough to make 18, more or less equal buns.

First dough:
300g flour
100g milk
75g LM (Lievito madre), refreshed 3 times
75g sugar
68g egg (1 large)
50g butter

Second Dough:
300g flour
150g milk
50g egg (1 medium)
75g sugar
125g butter
30g honey
9g salt
180g mixed fruit
# 1n orange zest
# 1/4tsp clove oil
# 1/4tsp orange oil
# 1/4tsp all spice
# 1/4tsp nutmeg
# 1/8tsp ginger
# 1.5tsp mixed spice
# 1.5tsp cinnamon

Traditionally the crosses should be made of just flour and water but I added some butter in there to shorten the flour slightly. And I used juice from the orange which I zested with some sugar to make a sweet glaze for the buns.

Happy Easter!

Michael

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mwilson

…based upon a formula by Francesco Favorito.

Oh my. These are some damn fine tasting doughnuts, easily the best I have ever eaten, seriously!

  • 500g strong flour, I used Canadian wheat
  • 100g lievito madre, refreshed*. I made three refreshments
  • 50g mashed potatoes
  • 3 whole eggs, about 155g
  • 110g whole milk
  • 50g sugar
  • 5g salt
  • 100g softened butter
  • Zest of one lemon
  • Vanilla extract

*Lately I have been conserving my lievito in water. In addition to this I have taken to refreshing at three hour intervals. As a result my lievito is low in acid and bacteria with a pH of 4.8-5.2. It triples its volume in just two hours at 28C.
sourdough after 3hrs at 28C

Mix flour, salt, sugar, lemon zest, lievito, potato, eggs and milk to a smooth dough. Add butter to finish the mix. Wrap and leave in the fridge overnight. In the morning transfer the dough to a warm room at 28-30C, After 1 hour divide dough into 65g pieces and round. Proof at 28C for 6-7 hours. Fry in oil at 180C for 90 seconds each side. Drain on paper towel and coat in sugar mixed with lemon and orange zest.

a plate of scrumptious doughnuts

These were pretty big for just 65 grams of dough! I had enough to make 16 doughnuts.

I filled these with custard / pastry cream:

 

  • 500ml whole milk
  • 100g sugar
  • 40 corn flour
  • 4 egg yolks
  • seeds of one vanilla pod
  • one piece of lemon peel

Cream egg yolks with sugar and then corn flour. Bring to the boil milk with vanilla and lemon. Strain into the egg yolk mixture and return to the pan. Cook gently until thick, stirring all the time. Cover and chill overnight.

 

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mwilson

Two formulas I've not tried before.

Renato Bosco Panettone

Renato Bosco maintains his madre in water which means it's less acidic and hence why his formula includes it at 50% in the first dough.


first and final doughs risen

Recipe source: http://lacuocadentro.blogspot.co.uk/2013/12/panettone-lievitazione-naturale-di_17.html

 

Francesco Favorito Pandoro

A formula for Pandoro that doesn't include commercial yeast is hard to come by but this is one courtesy of Francesco Favorito. 


final dough after mixing and after rising

Recipe source: http://dolcinema.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/il-pandoro-con-lievito-naturale.html

Happy new year to all...

Michael

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mwilson

"Extra paradise" panettone from Cresci

286   10000   Flour 280W
66    2300   Lievito Naturale
100    3500   Sugar
149    5200   Water
100    3500   Butter
.29      10   Fresh yeast
   
40    1400   Sugar
57    2000   Honey
2.86     100   Malt powder
.86      30   Fresh yeast
100    3500   Butter
63    2200   egg yolks
86    3000   Bari Walnuts
57    2000   Raisins
29    1000   Dark choc drops
2.86     100   Salt
------   -----   Orange zest
------   -----   Vanilla
1139.87   39840 
   

 

Amendments:
I made two changes, one was to omit the added compressed yeast and the other was substituting some of the walnuts with candied orange peel.

One of my finest panettoni. Incredibly soft and light which makes hard work when slicing. A fantastic bready texture that tears beautifully when pulled apart.

This is a very difficult formula to achieve success. The enriching ingredients in ratio to the flour are higher than any other panettone. This is due to there being no flour added in the second dough.

 

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