The Fresh Loaf

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Lucy’s New Jewish Deli Rye

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Lucy’s New Jewish Deli Rye

Lucy being German at heart, has been in the dumps since the election on Tuesday.  First she got blindsided by Brexit earlier this year and now by Trump so...... she wanted to throw off the hurt feelings and make one of her favorite breads in a new way - taking it to the next level – just to move on….. into the world the way it is now.  Be calm and carry on!

I reminded her that one of the very best character attributes to have and hold dear, is to be able to keep your emotional head in check when everyone else was losing theirs and acting in bizarre and destructive ways.  This is what normal people of all stripes look for and admire in their most trusted advisers, spouses, significant others, business associates, employees, employers and peers.

This bake is the culmination of her JDR experiments.  We are getting closer all the time.  This one is 60 % whole 8 grains - half of them are sprouted.  The 8 grains are buckwheat, oat, barley, emmer, red and white wheat, rye and spelt.  The 100% hydration levain was built on 10 g of NMNF newly refreshed stiff rye starter, was 8% pre-fermented flour and all of which was bran.

We put 8% of 3 different caraway seeds, 1 black and 2 brown, into the 3 stage levain build for the 1st stage.  I wanted to get some rehydrated minced onion in there too but she said I had to wait for pumpernickel for that.   This bread would have been better with the rehydrated minced onion in there somewhere.

The entire dough liquid was Boulder Beer’s Shake Chocolate Porter – 1 bottle exactly, which brought the overall hydration to 80%.  Yes, Lucy crafted her formula to make sure that I didn’t get a chance to even take a swig of this fine beer on the side.  Lucy was also upset that recreational marijuana failed in Arizona too and wanted to take it out on me I’m thinking.

We autolysed the dough flour and beer with the pink Himalayan sea salt for 1.5 hours.  We then did 40 slatpand folds to get everything mixed and 2 more sets of 4 slap and folds all on 1 hour intervals.  After pre-shaping and shaping into a boule we place the dough seam side down into a rice floured basket and bagged it in a used trash can line for a half hour of counter proof.

We then chucked it in the fridge for a 9 hour retard when we noticed it didn’t do a thing in the cold.  After it came out of the fridge, we let it proof for 4 more hours.  We then chucked it into a hot combo cooker seam side up for 20 minutes of steam at 500 F.

Once the lid came off we saw some fairly nice bloom, spring and cracking.  We took the bread out of the cooker, turned the oven down to 425 F with the convection fan on.  15 minutes later the bread was at 203 F and removed to the cooling rack.

It browned up nicely in the dry heat and took on a very pleasant look the outside.  We will have to wait till tomorrow to see the crumb.  We give a big shout out to all the Vets who have served our country through thick and thin and sacrificed so much for us to bake our bread in peace and vote for whoever we want, for any reason we want – well done indeed!

Here is why you make this bread - for smoked ribs!  The traditional Wonder Bread served in KCMO is not as good!

The crumb is as open, soft and moist as anyone could want but the taste is outstanding .  The whole and sprouted grains, caraway flavors and the dark color of the beer and red rye malt really came through.  This is a serious JDR that will make some fine sandwiches and it did make great toast woth cream cheese this morning for breakfast.

The classic smoked brisket sandwich, swiss cheese, relish and Dijon with sides of pickles, oven steak fries and a salad - yummy!

Formula

8% prefermented all bran, 3 stage, 100% hydration levain using 2% NMNF rye starter with 8% caraway seeds.

60% whole 8 grain - half sprouted

2.5% Red Rye Malt

80% Boulder Beer Shaker Chocolate Porter.

2% salt

We made some beer can chicken this week and had a fine salad with it.

Comments

Yippee's picture
Yippee

Beautiful crust color, DBM! I'm curious if the beer taste comes through...have never made bread with beer.  Looking forward to seeing the crumb shot, too!  Salute to all the veterans! 

Happy Baking!

Yippee

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

through with this bread along with the color of the red rye malt and beer.  I never know how much the beer flavor comes though because I don't bake another one at the same time without the beer.  Some flavor must come through but it is subtle and overpowered.

The crumb came out acceptable enough..  I was going to put this in the Pullman but it wasn't big enough to fill it properly!

Glad you like it Yippee and happy baking

OldWoodenSpoon's picture
OldWoodenSpoon

but that is a beautiful loaf.  Lucy is a true artist, even when emotional.  I'm as excited though to see the giblets in the pan for the Beer Can Chicken as for the bread.  I suspect there are only a few of us remaining that appreciats them.  Full disclosure:  I'm not a big fan of chicken liver, but hearts, gizzards and necks are certainly on my "like" list..

Great bake as always.

OldWoodenSpoon

 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

pan in pan method the best.   It keeps the schmaltz out of the roasted veggies and give you a perfect place to put the giblets and the easy way to make the gravy,  Just pour off the juices, separate the fat and back on the burner the small pan goes to make giblet gravy!  I love pate and chopped liver so chicken livers hold a special place in my heart....  and this bread is the perfect place to spread them on:-)

Glad you liked the bread,  It turned out just as nice on the inside.  Happy baking OWS!

Danni3ll3's picture
Danni3ll3

about you stating that you used a used trash can liner. I know that this would be just fine according to Lucy but us humans kind of cringe at the thought. ;-)

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

not used for garbage and reused:-)  If I am not retarding I just use plastic grocery shopping bags for final proofing.

You would like this one Danni - this is real JDR made for sandwiches of all kinds especially Reubens and pastrami!  Happy baking  

Lechem's picture
Lechem (not verified)

Now you're making me crave a salt beef sandwich. The colour of that crust is perfect. 

Bon Appetit. 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

We call the sandwiches Reubens.  This bread is perfect for salt beef ir pastrami, the other salt beef.  We like that crust color too - part whole grains, part porter and part residual sugar - Lucy calls it mahogany!   

Glad you liked it Abe and happy baking

alfanso's picture
alfanso

on Brick Lane at the Beigel Bake in the Shoreditch neighborhood of London.  Yep, it's corned beef all right.  Incredible "smoked salmon" and cream cheese on a beigel (yes that is right) for something like 1.50 GBP.

Lechem's picture
Lechem (not verified)

You must be talking about quite a while ago. The East End of London is like the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Was once the centre of Jewish life but they've moved away now. There might be a couple of shops left holding onto the traditional food but you'd have to go to North London now.

All this talk of Salt Beef (sorry, Corned Beef) had me call up my bro-in-law asking him if he wanted a salt beef sandwich from Reubens (a kosher restaurant on Baker Street known for it's great Salt Beef and funnily enough called "Reubens"). Turns out he couldn't make it so we ordered in some Gourmet Burgers from another restaurant more close by. Still gotta get me some salt beef.

alfanso's picture
alfanso

if that's what you mean by memories ;-) .  Beigel Bake and, as I was told, its historical nemesis Beigel Shop are still a few doors away from each other.  Just off the corner of Bethnal Green Road.  That whole neighborhood is quickly gentrifying but apparently a few of the stalwarts are still holding court.  Unfortunately many of the old-time locals are being pushed out as the neighborhood "upscales itself", an action that repeats over time just about everywhere.

We were staying on Sclater and Bethnal for the better part of two weeks and my brother-in-law and his wife, stationed there for work for a few months, introduced us to the shop on day 2.  The croissants at Sainsbury on their street were actually quite good for a mass produced supermarket product.  I'd return in a minute, but my brother-in-law's work is done there, so the minute likely won't be so soon.  Still keeping my Oyster card handy though!

Sorry for the diversion, dbm...

Isand66's picture
Isand66

So I have to ask...what's with the spelling Beigel?  Is that Klingon for Bagel?

alfanso's picture
alfanso

flavor flavour...

A bagel (Yiddish: בײגל‎ beygl; Polish: bajgiel), also spelled beigel, is a bread product originating in the Jewish communities of Poland.

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

1996 and we all thought that the way they spelled bagel was the product of two cultures separated by a common language.  It was a pretty vibrant Jewish community then.  But things can change very fast.  That same year we went to Goldenberg Deli, the heart of the tiny Jewish community in Paris. It closed in 2008 when it couldn't afford bring its kitchens up to Paris health standards.  I'm glad we got to go there before it was lost forever.

Lechem's picture
Lechem (not verified)

The Bagels (or Beigals) are still hanging on there. It's probably become an institution and famous for being part of a by-gone era. Pre-war this would have been a vibrant Jewish community. There are some shops left and let's face it - everyone loves bagels. You'd have to go to Golders Green, Hendon and Stamford Hill now (Golders Green/Hendon being more modern orthodox and Stamford Hill more Hassidic). Beigals would be the more Polish Jewish way of pronouncing it. I believe this very place was the first stop for bagels being introduced from Poland to the USA making its first stop in the East End of London. And if I'm not mistaken this would have been one of the very first shops.

PalwithnoovenP's picture
PalwithnoovenP

The only rye bread I had has just a small amount of rye and I like the flavour. I will surely love dried onions with this bread. I saw some dried minced onions on the supermarket. Is it the same as your DMO's? It looks like grey granules with black specks.

I already baked my entry for the homemade bread challenge; I just have to post it and it's the very essence of my home. I'm excited about it!

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

the traditional flavor and use the excess re-hydration water for some of the levain liquid too!

Glad to see you are done with the homemade bread day bake.  I was going to use this one for that but Lucy has other ideas - just like always and it has re-hydrated mince onions in it:-)

You would love this bread Job - it's best feature is its taste!  Happy baking.

alfanso's picture
alfanso

and I'm not just talking about the 4-legged ankle biter either.  But I gotta tell ya.  My immediate neighborhood - meaning within a 5 block radius, had 3 bakeries and 4 delicatessens.  They all carried JDR, and not one of them looked anything like that or had any of the extra ingredients of your baby.  So what is the tipping point that makes this a JDR?

BTW, I like that your chicken is doing the Hora in honor of the bread.  

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

neighborhood with so many Jewish bread options.  The problem with the JDR you grew up on is that it isn't all that healthy, hearty or tasty and not the bread a diabetic should be eating for everyday sandwiches.  Lucy says that traditional JDR isn't what it could be using today's standards.

She wants to improve on the nutrition, looks and taste by using sprouted whole grain rye, sprouted whole multi-grains, get rid of any sweeteners and commercial yeast and boost the crumb color from a drab grey to a nice brown while turning on that mahogany crust in a shape that is easier to make.  Being lazy she doesn't want to go through the shaping steps and slashing of a traditional batard - you can forget that cornstarch glazing too.

She says this is what Jewish deli rye should be today but it is her take on the traditional JDR and it isn't for everyone.  Most people like white bread and want their rye bread to be as white as possible and the traditional JDY will suit them just fine.

Lucy started with 30-40% rye and 60-70% wheat with caraway as the base and that is what she ended up with if you call emmer and spelt nothing more than the earlier wheat varieties that modern wheat eventually evolved from.

It has porter in place of some of the water but porter is 98% water and the rest grains so nothing new for ingredients there.  The red rye malt is nothing more than whole sprouted rye.  The only real difference is no sweeteners of any kind and no commercial yeast.  All they do is speed things up and speed is very bad for good bread and slow food in general.  So, it isn't all that far from the original if you are German Baking Apprentice 2nd  Class :-)  It is amazing how a few small changes can  completely disguise its real roots so well though!

I think you would like Lucy's new, more modern take on Jewish deli rye.  It will remind you of it when you taste it.   It is just a more robust version of the weak sister it was inspired by. 

Glad you liked it Alan and happy baking.

Lucy says this one would be a great to make as a baguette or a bagel and I think she is on to something.  You would want to glaze the baguettes though. 

Isand66's picture
Isand66

Beautiful crust and crumb on this one.  That sammie looks mouth-watering and kind of makes me want to go get some pastrami for lunch now! 

Max and Lexi want to know if Lucy is cooking that Chicken on your BBQ with some smoke or in the oven but either way they want her to use her super powers to teleport a drumstick and thigh over to LI.  They are tired of squirrel and possum and need some chicken!

I've got some English Muffins ready to bake in a few minutes.  Similar to my last bake but threw in some dried cherries, cranberries and blueberries.  I forgot to lower the hydration so they were a pain to cut out but I'm hopeful they will be as tasty as my last bake.

Happy Baking from the East Coast gang!

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

what ever I make for lunch if she is around.  I gave her a bit if the bread plain for breakfast.  The for lunch she took a bits of the sandwich ans said where did you find the smoked brisket?  Then she took another bite and said what kind of mustard is that?  Then she took another bite ans said what kid of pickles did you put in there?  Then she took another bite and said what kind of cheese is that?  Then I said no more questions after she ate half the sandwich:-)

The English muffins sound grand - can't wait to see them.  I'm having another one of those sandwiches for lunch today.....Lucy would send some of it to the black ones but she eats it all herself being crazy about smoked brisket...... 

If I were you, I would head out to closest deli and get a good pastrami sandwich for lunch.

Lucy only does brined chicken thighs in the smoker.   Her favorite is to stuff them: slather on Dijon mustard, Swiss cheese and ham on the inside, roll them up the boned thighs and place them on two pieces of crossed bacon.  Slather outside with mustard, wrap the bacon over the thighs, roll up and then hold it all together with string.  Smoke 2 hours at 250 F till 165 F on the inside. White meat gets too dry and cooks too fast if you try to do a whole chicken.  Whole duck is fabulous though but you want to truss it instead of putting it in beer can style.

Glad you liked the bread Ian and happy baking .

Ru007's picture
Ru007

I love the look of this one. The seam side up baking is very cool. The crumb looks fantastic.

I will definitely be taking a page out of Lucy's book on this one. I'm sure it would be great with dried minced onion too :)

I'm glad Lucy is keeping calm and carrying on! I'm always saying to myself, "just remain calm!". Anyway, with great bread like this, the world as it is now isn't so bad! 

Happy baking Dab! 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

media that covers them, is that that they are all pathological liars pushing an agenda no one likes or wants to hear.  They are downright evil as a group - all about twisting lies into truth and hyperbole of propaganda.

The folks have seen it too long.  They can easily separate the good stuff from the bad ....... and they know better than to believe the BS that surrounds them on all sides. At least half on the right and left can at any - as the primaries bore out for all to see.   Elections bring out the worst in people trying to stay in, or gain, control of the rest of us.  Control of us is what they live and die for....... and they live and die every election - just like clockwork.  After the primaries we saw the worst these fools had to offer.

That is why politicians, journalists and the media are the lowest admired people on the planet.  But life goes on, in spite of them, and the folks realize they are the ones that really make a difference in their own lives.  They know right from wrong and can efficiently act on their good character and instincts to affect their lives - no matter what politicians and the media say they should care about, what they should think and how they should act.  Half the folks know the process is pretty much worthless nonsense.

Sadly, some folks will always continue to think they know better than everyone else and try to control other peoples lives.  They just can't accept the fact that their opinion is only their opinion, nothing more and no better than someone else's.  They ll want to be our slave masters one way or another despite their denials otherwise - the rest of us just can't take care of ourselves .....as well as they could for us...... and we really need to be enslaved so we don't hurt ourselves.

When people finally stop trying to tell other folks how they should act and think and finally learn to worry about their own lives and family without bothering and harming anyone else - then we have the basis for a level playing field of truthfulness, decency, fairness and equality - the stuff the evil ones all talk grandly about but, can't ever seem to grab on to, accomplish and hold dear in the real world we all live in.

The good stuff is always slipping away from us!  They refuse to believe that it is your good character attributes that makes you successful in all things  - not how skillful you are or especially how skillful you think you are. 

A simple loaf of well crafted bread, shared with family and friends over the dinner table is what life is all about and what brings reality home - grounding all of us.  It is one of the many simple things that does count and makes a difference.  It reminds us that we are the ones who can make a difference in our lives and why the world goes on.... despite all the sharks circling the table trying to pick us off one at a time.

It was good to see that half the folks on the right and left finally got it during the primaries - but the other half of each eventually took over the process to do their worst and that is what need to guard against going forward.

Glad you like the bread Ru!  It is a nice one.  It is good to remember that bread is still the staff of life for so many.  Happy baking for you and yours. 

alfanso's picture
alfanso

.