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Submitted by andrew_l on July 11, 2007 - 1:09am Mme Poilane says Bagutte not French Bread...Here's an interesting clip I found on another Bread site..http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/world/europe/article1980288.ece
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"grey flour" defined
When you read the article, you'll see the term grey flour used. If you're curious what grey flour actually is, read on...
Grey flour, aka Type 150 is a high extraction flour that contains the germ and much of the bran of a wheat kernel. It has a high ash content - above 1.4. (Ash content is, in part, a method of measuring how much of the bran is included in the flour). See www.theartisan.net/flour_classification_of.htm (scroll down). Hamelman's book also has an interesting section on wheat and milling.
Grey flour better than whole grain?
One of the comments below the article has this paragraph:
"One of the great British and Health Food movement myths (and falsehoods) is that whole wheat bread is healthier and more nutritious. It does CONTAIN more nutrients, but less are AVAILABLE, because the bran contains chemicals that prevent absorption of them. In addition, wheat bran is an irritant to the bowel. Far from aiding 'regularity' it is like taking a chemical laxative. "
The writer goes on to say that the grey flour, with less bran, is thus better for you than the whole grain.
Can anyone confirm or belie this allegation?
Rosalie
I've learned this from
I've learned this from Hamelman's book. He describes nutrient availability in whole wheat flours and the relationship with sourdoughs in the section about flours and such.
There are lots of nutrients, primarily minerals I believe, contained in the wheat's bran layer, but very little are available for absorbtion by the digestive system. The reason is the prevalence of phytic acid in the bran, which limits absorption of minerals but also, i've recently found out, acts as an antioxidant and has other health benefits. So in this case, yes whole wheat does contain more nutrients, and yes, they are less available to the body, though the culprit also has some health perks.
Hamelman notes that the trick to unlocking the minerals and such in the bran is the sourdough culture. He claims that organisms in the culture, specifically the bacteria if I remember correctly, break down phytic acid in the flour, freeing the minerals to be absorbed.
As for wheat bran being an irritant...I suppose if you were eating whole, unground wheat husks they would probably be very irritating...but as far as I know, there is a vast amount of knowledge about insoluble fibers such as wheat bran and their benefits for colon and overall digestive system health. Maybe there are conditions that cause some reactions to wheat bran presence? Maybe the slightly lower amount of bran in high extraction flour makes it easier to digest because there is less indigestible material in it?
french view of flour
In "the taste of bread" by Raymond Calvel, he makes some arguments on how whole wheat flour is not good for you. It's a great book, but it's pretty obvious that he has some...let's say biases...that come through when you read the book. (He also makes some hilarious backhanded compliments about italians, ha ha).
But, one thing he said that did stand out to me--that whole wheat is "worse" for you because of pesticides--as you are consuming the exterior hull which in theory has been exposed to these chemicals. It was an unintentional reminder for me to use organic whole wheat flour!
white flour vs whole wheat flour
Maggie Glezer also says our bodies are not able to process all the vitamins in whole wheat and so it ends up being a wash, nutritionally, with white flour but I cannot find the page where she states it in ABAA.
I have heard that whole wheat and rye flours take longer for the body to digest and this is a benefit to diabetics but I’ve never studied this stuff.
Interesting article, Andrew. I think often these things are simply repeated rather than someone actually studying the truth of the matter and learning what the facts truly are. It would be worth finding out more information – who is right? While I enjoy whole wheat breads I prefer the flavor of bread made using a fair amount of white flour so then I could truly eat more white bread with less guilt. :o)
USDA link re flour nutrition plus some historical commentary
While not a nutrition faddist, I do have a normal interest in the nutritional value of the food I purchase.
Anyone interested in a nutritional comparison of flour and grains can download this Adobe Acrobat Reader publication published by the USDA www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/Data/SR18/reports/sr18fg20.pdf. This publication is part of the USDA National Nutrient Database. Information on searching and using this database can be found at www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/Data/
Whole wheat flour contains vitamins and minerals that are absent in unfortified white flour. Most naturally occuring vitamins in grain are concentrated in the germ, while naturally occuring minerals are concentrated in the bran. In the US, all white flour must be fortified with certain synthetic B vitamins to replace what is lost by the removal of the bran and germ from flour - read the Nutritional Information on any bag of white flour to see what they are.
This federal mandate was put in place in the mid 1940s in response to long-term observations of nutritional deficiencies in the population consequent on the switch to refined white flour, which had occured several generations prior. Later, folic acid was included in these required additives.
For centuries, people in Europe favored bread made from a wheat flour where much of the bran was removed and the remaining bran was very finely pulverized. Prior to the modern switch to high-speed roller mills, bran removal was difficult to achieve. The process required repeated sifting (aka "bolting") and milling of the flour, so only the very rich could afford to use this lighter flour for their daily bread.
The first step in modern milling is to remove the bran and germ, leaving only the endosperm to be used for flour. The removal of the germ is especially profitable as flour lacking the germ has a much longer shelf life and does not require special storage conditions. Most of the removed bran and germ is processed for animal feed.
Bran benefits beyond vitamins and nutrients
Don't forget about fiber-- the difference between taking a chemical laxative and eating fiber-rich foods like wheat bran has everything to do with the indigestible material. The fiber also slows how the eater metabolizes the bread-- bread with more bran and germ will metabolize more slowly and steadily, so you'll have more energy over a longer period of time. White bread will more likely spike your blood sugar and then drop off, leaving you tired or hungry.
I think the loaf's density affects this too, although I've never seen any authoritative information on this. If this is the case, and I think it stands to reason, then a crusty bread may be more slowly metabolized than a soft white enriched bread.
And fiber can be a pretty serious irritant if you rarely eat fiber. A co-worker of mine has diverticulitis-- he thinks years of processed foods are a pretty major factor-- and can eat virtually no fiber without massive abdominal pain and possibly hospitalization... If you don't like whole-wheat bread, this doesn't sound bad, right? How about no fruits or vegetables? He said he never imagined he'd miss the things he can't eat until he genuinely couldn't eat them. For a good thing about diverticulitis and diverticulosis, an often-undiagnosed and symptom-free condition which precedes it, check out this site:
http://www.everydiet.org/diverticulitis.htm
Basically, not getting enough fiber will compromise the strength of your digestive system over time and as you age you'll be able to eat fewer and fewer foods. I am a young man (~30) and I love to eat-- only being able to eat a handful of different things strikes me as something of a curse.
Whole wheat
Zolablue,
I don't know if the whole wheat vs. white flour thing is mentioned in ABAA, but I do think Nancy Silverton mentions it in the intro of her book.
Whole wheat
Zolablue,
I don't know if the whole wheat vs. white flour thing is mentioned in ABAA, but I do think Nancy Silverton mentions it in the intro of her book.
Right - staff of life - THX!
I was confused so thank you for pointing me towards the right source, staff of life. That was driving me crazy and no wonder I could not find it since it is not in Glezer's book. :o)
Here is the quote from Nancy Silverton's book, Breads from the La Brea Bakery, page 7.
WHOLE-WHEAT FLOUR: To a lot of people, whole-wheat bread is sacred—and white bread is the devil. But I have to admit that I use whole-wheat flour mainly for its good looks and flavor, not its vitamins. You many have grown up thinking that whole-wheat bread is more nutritious than white bread, but that’s not really true. Whole-wheat flour does contain more nutrients than white flour, but our bodies can’t absorb most of them because whole-wheat flour works its way through our systems too fast. Most of the vitamins in white flour, on the other hand, do get absorbed, so the battle between white and whole wheat turns out to be a draw.
Re: Nancy Silverton on whole wheat
I am a big fan of Nancy Silverton, but I think this statement is misleading and even a little irresponsible (to be fair, it was published over a decade ago; maybe she has since revised her stance).
From my own reading of the scientific literature, it is my understanding that the absorption of some of the nutrients in wheat bran and germ is somewhat inhibited by phytic acid found in whole flour. In that sense, the battle MAY be a draw. There seems to plenty of evidence that, as Hamelman, quoted by umbreadman, points out, sourdough breaks down a good deal of that phytic acid, an effect that can also be achieved, according to several studies, by a long fermentation of commercial-yeasted breads.
I think the larger issue, though, is a more holistic one: Study after study has shown that a diet high in whole grains produces healthier people. Whole grains are associated with reduced risk for a host of problems, including diabetes, heart disease, and some types of cancers, to name a few. These are major health problems in the United States. To my knowledge, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, related to eating whole grain bread, are not.
I'm not saying white flour is evil. Just that I think we would all do well to include more whole grains in our diet, and that includes baking with more whole wheat flour.
Susanfnp
http://www.wildyeastblog.com