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Comparing Enriched Breads vs. Rich Breads

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Dwayne's picture
Dwayne

Comparing Enriched Breads vs. Rich Breads

I am trying to get a better understanding of Enriched Breads and Rich Breads.  Comparing lean bread is pretty easy; you mainly just look at the hydration.

 

However, comparing enriched and rich breads seems more of a mystery to me.  (Note: I’m using (or miss-using) the terminology as found in Peter Reinhart’s excellent book “The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”.)  These breads can include any or all of the following: Fat (Butter, Lard, Crisco, oil), Eggs (Whole, Yolks, Whites), Sugar (white, brown, honey, etc.) and Milk (Low-fat, Regular, Buttermilk, Cream, etc.).  When trying to say that this bread is richer that this other bread is difficult especially when they get their enrichment from different ingredients.

 

I have picked recipes from some of my favorite Bread books.  Peter Peinhart’s: BBA (“The Bread Baker’s Apprentice”) and ABED (“Artisan Bread Every Day”). Stan Ginsberg and Norm Berg: ITJB (“Inside The Jewish Bakery”).  Richard Bertinet: “Crust” and “Dough”.   A couple of favorite recipes from an older book Bernard Clayton’s “The Complete Book of Breads”.  I am also including some from the WEB and some family ones.  Both Peter and Stan gave me permission to use data from their books.

 

For each of the recipes listed I calculated how many calories there were in 100 grams of dough.  For breads like Panettone and Stollen I did not include the fruit and filling.  I also listed the Fat, Milk, Egg and Sugar baker's percentage.  I sorted the list based on the Calories per 100 grams of dough.  I will double-check my calculations at some point.

 

A spreadsheet that I got from Ron Ray (TFL member) helped me calculate what is the number of calories in 100 grams of each of the dough’s.

 

Here is the data.

 

Name

Book

Page

Cal/100g

Fat

Milk

Eggs

Sugar

Polish Potato Bread

ITJB

086

148

00.0

00.0

00.0

00.0

French

BBA

168

210

00.0

00.0

00.0

00.0

Italian

BBA

172

219

02.0

33.4

00.0

02.0

Roadside Potato Bread

Clayton

392

225

06.0

65.0

00.0

05.5

Vienna Bread

BBA

261

230

02.0

29.7

07.6

05.6

Eggless Water Challah

ITJB

035

232

04.0

00.0

00.0

04.0

Challah

BBA

133

246

05.5

00.0

25.3

05.5

Vienna Bread

ITJB

089

250

01.0

00.0

08.0

06.0

Strudel Dough

ITJB

147

251

10.0

00.0

13.0

06.0

Panettone **

BBA

202

257

18.1

39.8

10.9

07.0

Bakery Challah

ITJB

026

258

06.0

00.0

16.0

11.0

Sweet Dough

Dough

137

262

11.5

51.4

20.0

08.7

My Sweet Dough

N/A

 

267

12.1

60.4

10.7

10.7

Yeast-Raised Doughnuts

ITJB

168

268

11.0

65.0

11.0

14.0

Sweet Egg Dough

ITJB

109

272

08.0

00.0

13.0

13.0

Conchas

Suas

277

274

09.0

53.0

19.7

23.8

Soft Sandwich

ABED

105

274

10.7

53.5

06.3

09.8

Cinnamon Buns

BBA

143

280

17.2

59.3

10.4

20.5

Stollen **

BBA

252

280

20.5

34.0

13.3

04.0

Sally Lunn

Clayton

057

283

25.3

27.1

33.6

14.7

Stollen **

Crust

129

288

20.0

50.0

22.0

05.0

Kolaches – Mary’s

N/A

 

291

25.5

 

08.6

17.7

Rich Sourdough Barches

ITJB

028

291

10.0

00.0

21.0

02.0

Cinnabon - Gordon

Web

 

293

19.9

50.0

10.9

19.9

Kuchen – Laura’s

N/A

 

295

21.1

21.9

19.1

18.5

Coffee Cake Dough

ITJB

156

296

23.0

54.0

23.0

23.0

Sweet & Rich Challah

ITJB

033

300

13.0

00.0

21.0

20.0

Bun Dough

ITJB

151

303

18.0

57.0

12.0

18.0

Poor Man Brioche

BBA

128

308

23.4

23.4

38.8

05.8

Kolaches – Homesick Texan

Web

 

310

47.2

65.8

28.3

13.9

Portuguese Sweet Bread

BBA

215

320

14.7

31.4

24.3

22.3

Babka Dough

ITJB

163

325

40.0

58.4

38.0

27.0

Laminated Croissants

Crust

119

325

40.0

25.0

11.0

10.0

Laminated Croissants

ABED

181

342

62.0

32.8

00.0

09.6

Brioche Middle-Class

BBA

127

344

50.0

29.9

51.5

06.2

Pandoro

Web

 

344

35.4

21.4

33.1

17.6

Brioche

Crust

133

359

50.0

00.0

70.0

10.0

Best Biscuits Ever *

ABED

175

380

49.8

100.0

00.0

06.2

Laminated Danish Dough

ITJB

130

387

62.0

55.8

26.0

25.0

Rich Man Brioche

BBA

125

465

87.6

21.8

45.2

06.8

Blitz Puff Pastry *

ITJB

137

470

99.4

00.0

07.0

00.0

 

* = Without Yeast          ** = Fruit/Filling not included

 

My questions are:

 

Does this data look correct?

 

What other breads might I include to have better coverage?

 

Is there a book that addresses all of this?

 

I was surprised to see that one of the Brioche dough’s was higher in calories than the laminated dough’s.

 

Would you classify Potatoes as enrichment? Peter Reinhart said that he would classify them as a specialty ingredient.  What other Specialty Ingredients can you think of?

 

I was surprised to see that the "Polish Potato Bread" has fewer calories than "French Bread", it is leaner.

 

Are These the Categories?

1. Sweet Dough (Calories boosted with sugar).

2. Egg Dough (Calories boosted with eggs).

3. Rich Dough (Calories boosted with fat).

 

Thanks in advance for everyone comments,

Dwayne

thomaschacon's picture
thomaschacon (not verified)

I guess I've always thought of enrichment as anything that's not flour, water, yeast, and salt.

I never really considered enrichment subgroups.

Where's the line between an enrichment and an additive?

Are nuts enrichment? If not, where do we put "nut flours"?

Are dried fruits enrichment? If not, where do we put "fruit pastes" like fig or date purees?

What about dairy? Are doughs made with yogurt, sour cream, and/or milk "rich doughs"?

Maybe protein, fat, and startch enrichment subgroups would be better?

No, I think I prefer your sweet, egg, and rich.

It'll be hard to come up with comprehensive categories, like any data schema.

(I'm never making Rich Man's Brioche ever again; one 100 g slice = 20 miles on the bike.)

Dwayne's picture
Dwayne

Thomaschacon,

 

I was hoping to get some questions answered but you have added a bunch.  Thanks, they are good questions.  I was primarily just analyzing the dough which is why I excluded fruit and filling.  I don't know what to do with speciality flours like Nut flours.

 

While putting together this list I ran into an interesting recipe that I did not know what to do with.  It was for Rugala.  The ingredients are as follows: Flour 240g, Butter 227g, and Cream Cheese 227g.  Calories are 467/100g of dough.  When calculating the percent fat what would you do since there is quite a bit of fat in the cream cheese.

 

Thanks,

Dwayne

thomaschacon's picture
thomaschacon (not verified)

I'd probably do it like a USDA nutrition label.

Flour, 240 g

  • 4 g fat
  • 29 g protein
  • 174 g carbs

Butter, 227 g

  • 184 g fat
  • 2 g protein
  • 0 g carbs

Cream Cheese, 227 g

  • 78 g fat
  • 14 g protein
  • 9 g carbs

(The sum of fat + protein + carb weights don't total to total ingredient weight because each ingredient contains other constituents, like a lot of water in the cream cheese. (ex. cream cheese 78 + 14 + 4 does not total to 227 because 227 g of cream cheese also contains 124 g water and 7 g sugar)).

Percent fat for the cream cheese would be 78/227 of 34.4%.

Total percent fat would be (weight of total fat in recipe) / (weight of all ingredients in recipe) * 100, so:

SUM(4, 184, 178)

------------------------------    x    100    =     52.7% fat

SUM(240, 227, 227)