The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Pane Buratto (Mulino Marino)

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JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Pane Buratto (Mulino Marino)

Mulino Marino is (small) miller near Cuneo (Piemonte) that work hard to produce a high quality stone grounded organic flour. HERE the link to the web site where you can read more about the history, the products etc.

          

One of the most interesting thing is they use organic grains grown in Piemonte and Lombardia, just where I live. And the varieties of grains they mix are the best one for bread baking. For example Taylor and Bologna are hard/medium-hard wheat varieties that can be used in place of imported Canadian wheat. These and other national grain are mixed with care to produce a very good range of flours. All the flour is milled in pureness and contains no additional additives (milk and its derivatives, vitamins, preservatives, malt and its derivatives, etc).

The miller works also with ancient grains like Farro Monoccocum, Kamut, 8-row Maize, Buckwheat and Enkir.

                           

                           

The first time I heard about Mulino Marino was from a friend and just one week ago from a baker. So, wednesday I was in Milano center and I stopped at EatItaly store where I bought some flour.

There were a lot of flours but my choice was clear, I thought at the bread I want to bake and I picked up Buratto and Manitoba flours.

  • Buratto is a medium strength wheat flour, stone milled, 80% extraction rate (Italian Type 1).
  • Manitoba is a strong bread flour, cylinder milled, 72% extraction rate (Italian Type 0).
Here the sourdough bread mix I used for "Pane Buratto":
  • 75% buratto + 25% manitoba (+ 0.5% malted barley flour)
  • 25% pre-fermented flour (20% buratto and 80% manitoba)
  • overall hydration 61%-62%, medium-soft dough
           [The loaf]                     [The crumb] Sorry, for the bad shaping and the tunnel, remove it with your imagination and look the crumb                                 texture around or fly into the tunnel and observe the translucent wall.           

The crumb is perfect: light but substantial, yieldind, moisty, soft and elastic. I made two loaves, one with stiff levain (50% hydration) and one with liquid levain (100% hydration). The stiff levain adds a touch (a very little note) of acetic acidity, I prefer the loaf with liquid levain.

The crust very good (for my oven and steaming apparatus). A good balance between chewy and fragrant.

The loaf shown a good oven spring and volume.

I can say Buratto flour is a perfect organic "all purpose" flour (tastier and rich of soluble fiber), not comparable with supermarket Italian flour. It's a pleasure to work with: after the autolyse I added the salt and in less than 2 minute of gentle hand mixing to incorporate the salt the dough shown a good gluten development.

The lesson for me is: use flour with extraction rate >= 80%, that is >= Italian Type 1. For sure I will test more flours from Mulino Marino ... Setaccio (a step over Buratto with a higher extraction rate, >= 85%) and SaporiAntichi (ancient grains mix) are my preferred.

Comments

ehanner's picture
ehanner

Very nice indeed. You were quick to act on your new information about the mill. A small world it is so often. Just around the corner in your area they grow the grains you seek.


Very nice JoeVa, beautiful breads.


Eric

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Ohh yes, just around the corner! And this is the west corner, I have also something on the east corner, just wait the next post ...


Giovanni

ZD's picture
ZD

Sounds like wonderful flour. I like high extraction flour myself.


Greg R

Shiao-Ping's picture
Shiao-Ping

HI Giovanni, I very much like to "fly into the tunnel and observe the translucent wall"!  What a great bread!


Shiao-Ping

nicodvb's picture
nicodvb

I hope you bought some of their rye flour, now it's renowned to be excellent.

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Next time, maybe. I have to consume my stock of flour ...


Giovanni

yozzause's picture
yozzause

Nice post with some nice bread and flour JoeVa, we are very lucky at TFL to have so many enquiring minds at work thankyou


regards Yozza 

Bertel's picture
Bertel

Ciao Giovanni,


Good to know I'm not the only one thinking Marino is good. You might want to check out mulino Sobrino in La Morra as well though I think their flour is more suitable for 'rustic' stuff. They have some old varieties. Try the chickpea flour from Marino, it is da bomb.

salma's picture
salma

I always look at your breads and want to taste them right out of the screen!   ? Out of the two loaves, although you say that you prefer the liquid starter loaf better, which one had more oven spring?  I have read some people comment that the stiffer starters give more oven spring.


Salma


 

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Sorry, but I cannot give you a logic answer. There isn't a simple direct relation between starter hydration and oven spring.


Giovanni

Mebake's picture
Mebake

Beautiful Crust and Crumb, to say the least! Inspiring Giov.


BTW, i have found that crumb shots taken with high exposure to sunlight will impart a pinkish tinge to the crumb color. To reveal the true color crumb, you may want to adjust the color setting of you camera, or use Auto color in Adobe Photoshop.


 

Salvatore's picture
Salvatore

Lo so, dovrei scrivere in inglese, ma non ne mastico abbastanza, e poi ho poco tempo in questo momento. Ti scrivo per complimentarmi. Condivido come te la passione del panificare. Ho acquistato farina del mulino Marino (deve arrivare) ma ti volevo chiedere perchè nella ricetta da te postata hai utilizzato un 25% di manitoba tenuto conto che già la farina buratto ha un W 240-280 (me l'hanno detto dal mulino stesso). Mi chiamo Salvatore Kosta sono tecnologo alimentare e ti invito (se vuoi) a scrivere su Gennarino dove troverai molti amici che condividono come noi tale passione


A presto

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Ciao Salvatore,


Buratto has alveographic W=270 P/L=0.5, a good medium strength flour. I didn't use a 100% of this flour in my liquid levain feeding because it ferments too fast and, for practical reasons (timing, temperature control, have a life, etc.), I cannot take care of a too fast levain. 25% manitoba is the flour I used for the levain building.


And with a liquid levain this flour will be too much degraded (lievito "marcio", in gergo) so I prefer to use a stronger one, Marino's Manitoba is great!


I think, with time and care, you can try a 100% buratto levain, maybe a stiff one (50-60% hydration), with a short refreshing period and with 1% salt ... something like Poilane miche?! The only problem will be the control of the acidity level, but once controlled ... I'm sure it will be great!


Gennarino: sometime I read your posts on gennarino, but I do not like the forum "confusion" and people approach. So I do not write on Gennarino.


Feel free to write me. If you leave me a message I can give you my email address for further discussions.


Giovanni

sandra longinotti's picture
sandra longinotti

Ciao Giovanni,


I know very well the Mulino Marino miller, they works hard and always have so much new ideas! You should also try their Sette Effe flour, a mix of seven different cereals: wheat, durum wheat, buck wheat, rye, spelt, maize and rice. It tastes great!

JoeVa's picture
JoeVa

Ciao Sandra,


I'm testing all Marino's flour (only the good ones to make naturally leavened bread). I used "Manitoba", "Buratto", "Setaccio" (my favorite is Buratto, it's closer to my ideal flour) and yesterday I bought "Sfarinato di Grano Duro"  for my next test (is it milled from Senatore Cappelli?). I have seen also their "Macinato di Segale Integrale"  but I didn't buy the bag ... next time, maybe!


I'm sure "Sette Effe" mix is great!


Did you buy Marino's flour at Eataly shop? Their prices are crazy, 2x the price of other organic flours!


Giovanni


PS: great blog (here the link http://blog.sandralonginotti.it/ for all)!

sandra longinotti's picture
sandra longinotti

Ciao Giovanni, I like Buratto too but if you are looking for something real different you should try Enkir, an ancient wheat very rich in carotene and great for bread and pasta.


About prices, I was in Eataly shop in Milan and you're right: is too high. You should buy the flours directly from the mill: +39 0141 88129


byebye__Sandra

stefano_arturi's picture
stefano_arturi

Hi Giovanni and Sandra + hello to all the TFL community

Excellent looking bread, Giovanni. Well done.

About how dear good flour should be: I think too that Marino's flours are expensive:  between 3.20 t0 3.80 euros to the KG.... but  then, I wonder, how should good organic, locally produced and milled flour be? It would be interesting to compare our Italian prices with prices from other parts of the world... so and I am now talking to all the TFL community... how much do you pay for top the market organic flour in your country?

ciao

Stefano 

(ps: yes I agree with G: Sandra's blog is very good)