SearchUser loginBread BooksFavorite Recipes
|
Submitted by Shiao-Ping on July 22, 2009 - 12:11am Dan Lepard's Barm Bread (100% sourdough)My husband text me from China and said his boss told him over pre-dinner drinks that he is a sucker of sourdough! Immediately I was thinking what would I bake if he ever makes a trip to Australia, not that I've been forewarned of any near-term possibility, but I was just entertaining hypothetical visits. Somehow, I know it's not MacGuire's that I've been making lately even with all those lovely big holey crumbs that I've been getting. The flavors of all those MacGuire breads/sourdoughs are not the best of all breads/sourdoughs that I've made. Indulge me with this explanation: the flavors of all those super-hydrated (and the resulting super-holey) crumbs are not deeply alluring for me to want to come back and have another slice once chewing is done. I was out doing a bit of gardening and enjoying the gorgeous sunshine of Australian winter. It hit me that my husband left a bottle of Irish ale in our bar fridge. There is a Dan Lepard's recipe that uses ale (as one would expect) in his "The Handmade Loaf" that I've been wanting to try. It's called "Barm bread." For most of you out there there will be no difficulty guessing what a barm bread might be, but I've never heard of this word, barm. My Wiktionary says it is an old English term referring to the foam rising upon beer or other malt liquors, when fermenting, and used as leaven in making bread (and in brewing). So, that's it - a barm bread is like a sourdough bread.
To make a quick barm 250 g ale (or bottle-conditioned beer) 50 g white bread flour 4 tsp white leaven (Dan's starter is 80% hydration; as the amount used is so little, it would not matter if your is not 80%.) Heat up the ale or beer in a saucepan to 70C (158F), then remove from the heat and quickly whisk in the flour. Transfer to a bowl, leave to cool down to 20C (68F), then stir in the leaven. Cover with a plastic wrap and leave overnight to ferment. (My barm took 36 hours to be bubbly.) Use as you would a leaven (but adjust your recipe water as the barm is quite liquid). the ale and the barm freshly made up the barm is ready Dan Lepard says this is a perfect replica of the complex barm of olden times for the home bakers. Now, the above formula is really curious to me. Recently a TFL user Bruce (Frrogg1son) asked me about a Chinese "65C soupy dough" and when I Googled it a whole string of Hongkonese and Taiwanese bread recipes ran up; many of these breads are on the sweet side with milk powder, butter and sugar, almost like French brioche breads. I see these type of sweet white breads in Japan a lot too. The curious thing is that the ratio of water to flour in this "65C soupy dough" is the same as Dan's ale to flour ratio; ie, 5 to 1, and it is heated up to 65 C, closed to Dan's 70 C. Bruce told me that the science behind this soupy dough is that "when the flour particles reach about 65C, they burst, releasing starch molecules, which have the capacity to absorb very large amounts of water. It is like gelatinization." What this does to a dough is that it improves the moistness of the crumb and keeping quality of the bread. He first discovered it on the internet as a natural way to extend the moistness of some doughs. How interesting. I imagined what this does is similar to what potato does for some sourdoughs - very most crumbs and good keeping quality. That said, I felt a sense of auspicious foreboding coming for this barm bread. Dan's book (page 41) says the Barm bread is the traditional wheaten bread of England. Wow.
The formula 150 g barm from above (the rest can keep in the fridge for a week) 250 g water (adjust your water temp to achieve a dough temp of around 21C / 70F) 500 g strong white flour (or a flour mix of rye and wholewheat, or even soaked grains, but I used white flour only) 10 g salt (or 1& 1/2 tsp) * Note: This is a 68% hydration dough; but I added 20 g extra water to bring it to 72%. Schedule in hours and minutes 0 :00 In a large bowl, whisk the barm with the water. Add the flour and salt, and stir until you have a sticky mass. Cover. Autolyse. The dough temp should be about 21C (70F). 0 :10 Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 - 15 seconds. Return the dough to the bowl. Cover. (I gave the dough 7 - 8 folds inside the bowl, which lasted 15 seconds, much the same way as dough is folded in James MacGuire's pain de tradition here that I recently posted.) 0 :20 Knead again as above. (I folded the dough again in the bowl.) The room temp should be about 20C (68F), if not, you may need to place your dough in the fridge for part of the time to keep the dough temp down. 0 :30 Knead again as above. (I folded again.) 1 :00 Knead again as above. (I folded again.) 2 :00 Knead again as above. (I folded again.) 3 :00 Knead again as above. (I folded again.) 5 :00 Turn the dough out and divide it into two pieces of 450 g each (I left mine as whole). Pre-shape each into a ball. Cover. 5 :15 Shape dough into boule and place into floured linen-lined baskets or bowls. Cover. Leave at room temp of around 20C (68F) for a bit longer than 4 hours or until dough almost doubled. 8 :30 Turn on your oven to 220C/425F (if it takes one hour to pre-heat). 9 :30 Bake with steam for 50 - 70 minutes.
Phew! This schedule may look like a bread making marathon to you but in truth my dough was not ready until after 12 hours! I started mixing my dough at 7am yesterday, and it was only ready to bake at 8 pm! Possible reasons are that my room temp was only around 18C (64F) and/or my barm was very slow. And this is it:
Dan Lepard's Barm Bread
What a beautiful barm bread; the taste is most amazing, richly flavored from the ale-based barm, which has a slight bitterness and sweetness from the ale. I am most impressed by Dan's formula. The crumb is sweetly fragrant. It has a very deep aroma, and allure. Now, this is something that I would come back to have more.
It's been years since I ate past 8pm but last night I literally had 1/3 of the loaf on my own! Any of you ladies out there, don't do what I do. I have not recommended any breads to people up until now because most of my breads are frivolous experiments and for my eyes only, but I do commend this one. Whether your guests are experienced connoisseurs or no foodies at all, there would be no qualms about this superb sourdough. (I am blowing my own trumpet.) Thank you, Dan. It's time Polly our dog go out for a rumple-trot in our yard; I sang out her name and she stirred from behind my couch. Out she went through the hallway door to enjoy the green and the afternoon sun. And me? I am having my afternoon tea with this bread!
Shiao-Ping
|
ALSO ON |
I'm sold! Beautiful write up,
I'm sold!
Beautiful write up, as we've become accustomed to, Shiao-Ping!
I am only allotted so much time per week (or even month, for that matter!) to experiment with new recipes, or work with ones that have layers of steps, but you got me.. I absolutely must try this one = )
I vote front page! = )
- Keith
Shiao-Ping Frivolous
Shiao-Ping
Frivolous experiments or not, you are a great treasure. This is a must try.
Ty
Beer Yeast
Having home brewed beer in the past, I'm curious enough to ask if some of the dried beer yeasts must be used in baking bread. Obviously, they are cultivated for different characteristics from bread yeasts, are more expensive and are usually just sold in home brew beer shops. However, I can't see any reason why they wouldn't work for bread. Proofing times might be difficult to judge without experience. I've seen a single package of British ale yeast turn a five gallon carboy of wort into a foaming yeast beast that that took about four days to ferment out.
If someone has actually tried this, I'd be interested in the results and what you thought of bread's flavor.
Thank you for this very nice
Thank you for this very nice formula for a wonderful. ' Barm Bread'. Not to be nick picky..most understand steaming instructions -but you never know- 9:30- someone might steam for the whole bake time!
Sylvia
Very Nice Barm
Looks interesting Shiao-Ping,
Was there any hint of the flavor of the Ale in the bread? I'm guessing it was a mild sour as well.
Eric
Hi Eric
The sourness is very, very mild. The flavor is really pleasant.
Shiao-Ping
Sounds wonderful
I love an ale taste in my breads. I must say, your breads always look perfect. Dave
bottle-conditioned beer !!
I have just realised that I committed yet another "naughtiness" in calling this loaf "Dan Lepard's Barm bread." Sorry, Dan.
James MacGuire, after seeing my post at TFL, was very kind writing to me and told me that:
No wonder my "barm" took so long to ferment! Now I know why. Sometimes when I read English, I don't get the exact meaning -- like bottle-conditioned beer is not bottled beer. Now I know.
Thank you, James.
Shiao-Ping
I researched the phrase last
I researched the phrase last night, and found out the same info... I did not have true bottle conditioned beer on hand, so I am currently fermenting your recommended 'barm' with a bottle of Samuel Adams Boston Lager. I'm at about the 12 hr mark, and there's lots of fizzing... so we'll see!
- Keith
You are more diligent than I am ...
Hi Keith
Glad to hear that you are experimenting. Last night I found an excellent write-up by Dan Lepard in his website HERE. I wish I read it before I did my barm bread (sigh...).
Shiao-Ping
Hi again - Well, what can I
Hi again -
Well, what can I say... a very nice full flavored boule is sitting on the counter! The yeast content was not what I'm used to in my sourdoughs, so therefore things happened faster than expected. I was unable to stay awake long enough to final proof and bake, so I retarded the shape in the fridge, inside a banneton. When I was ready to bake, I removed the banneton and realized that it was already at least 100% proofed. With no time to bring to room temp, and no time to properly pre-heat the oven, I slashed and put it into the oven.
The amount of final proofing left it good structure, but no great spring. Far from a brick, but far from what I'm capable of producing with other recipes that I'm familiar with. Unfortunately, a search for the camera led to a phone call to the wife at work, who says she took it in to work to have it ready for baby shower pictures tomorrow.
Without much spring or bloom, the crumb is fairly open, but nothing wildly so. Who cares, right? This was an experiment, and my main goal, before making it look as pretty as possible, is to get the flavor dialed in.
The Sam Adams Lager defintely gave it a rich carmel color within the crumb itself. The bread is super soft, the crust is French Bread quality crispy, which will of course soften significantly over the next few hours.
The taste? There is something just slightly beery there, but if I was blind tasting and asked what I thought it was, I might not guess beer. That 'something' is not distracting at all. It's mild, it's pleasant if not complimentary. There is very little sour, and that is where I will need to work on it, because I want a fairly robust tang to see how it works with the 'something' that's already there.
Shiao-Ping, I thank you for inspiring a journey for me. I get stuck baking the same things out of necessity of schedule. I ventured wildly from the recipe, realistically only using the barm instructions verbatim. You are a true improviser, and while I was busy improvising away the hours, I understand why you enjoy what you do. It is indeed a completely different approach and reward system.
For the record, here's my ingredients:
Faux Barm (hehe):
250 g Samuel Adams Boston Lager
50 g King Arthur Bread Flour
24 g 75% hydration King Arthur All-purpose fed starter (at peak activity)
Final Recipe:
The entire Faux Barm from above
100 g King Arthur Bread Flour
180 g King Arthur All-purpose Flour
31 g King Arthur Organice Whole Wheat Flour
6.2 g Kosher Salt
Additional water
I did a rookie and forgot to subtract the bread flour in the faux barm from my final formula, so I needed to add some water. I spritzed from a bottle while I was doing the frisage. Turned out to be a very well-behaved dough! As you can see, quite a departure from your recipe, which I did solely because I wasn't sure what this faux barm was all about or how it would work. I was both pleased and surprised at the amount of yeast activity available. It worked more like a slow commercial yeast rather than a sourdough.
I will do this again, and I expect it to be as fun. This time I will better manage my time, and concentrate on getting some sour into the dough. Thank you again for the inspiration!
- Keith
Hi Keith
that's an excellent try. I hadn't thought of using the entire "faux" (how befitting) barm, but that's great. I still have the leftover in my firdge, am just wondering what I would do with it. How you've done is smarter. (And now I have even more leftover after the weird Celtic Sourdough I made - not the bread, the idea).
Shiao-Ping
guilty of a novice
As with pursuits in most fine things in life, one may learn about sourdoughs or breads and obtain most information about the subject in a very short space of time; however, only after years of experience in the field can one grasp the nuances and subtleties.
James MacGuire was very kind and wrote to me that:
To discern the delicate flavors of the flour, the flour we use has to be "right" in the first place. How many tongues can differentiate the various delicate flavors in flour, given the "right" flour? Why can't everybody be a good sommelier? It may not be just a matter of training.
I made a hasty call when I said at the beginning of the post that the flavors of all those super-hydrated crumbs are not deeply alluring for me; after all, I have only made them three times, each time with different flours and variations, making subtleties with each harder for me to accumulate and compare.
Thank you, James, once again.
Shiao-Ping
Please, no more apologies..
I suppose purists would object to your post. It was very nice that your brought to light that your "barm" wasn't true to the definition.
I know I, as well as the majority of your fellow TFLers, have enjoyed this and all your posts. New flavors will be awakened with the choices of different flours, brews and baking techniques. Your pleasure in the flavor of this bread has already enticed others. That's why we are here, that's why we share.
Thanks again,
Betty
Beautiful!
Both the bread and the writeup!
I've yet to try it, but recall the "65C soupy dough" is sometimes referred to as a water roux (湯種) starter, which can help improve the texture of the bread.
Now in terms of bottle-conditioned beer, is that the same thing or very similar to an unfiltered wheat beer, such as a Hefeweizen?
- Jackie
Bottle -conditioned beer
Bottle conditioned beer is usually an ale where the brewery adds a bit of live yeast to the batch of beer before bottling. This helps to ferment any residual sugars to add a bit of carbonation and enhance the flavor. The practice seems to have started in England but has traveled well in the US. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale from California and Kansas City's Boulevard Pale Ale are two examples of the practice. An unfiltered hefeweizen is similar but the yeast strain won't be as pure as the SNPA.
Ale yeasts are used for fermentation at temperatures (about 64-69F) that are similar to bread yeasts. Lager yeasts are more commonly used at temperatures around 40F but have been used for California Common beer such as Anchor Steam at ale fermentation temperatures. Wyeast is a very popular and reliable manufacturer for all types of beer yeasts.
I've never heard of Sam Adams lager being a bottle conditioned beer nor have I ever seen any evidence of that in the bottles I've researched. What I do know is that if it's working, don't fix it.
thanks for the very clear explanation ...
... and brand names.
Shiao-Ping
bottle-conditioned beer
Hi Jacqueline
The point of the matter is the bottle-conditioned beer finishes fermenting in the bottle, and as such, there is still yeast remaining in the bottle. But bottled beer as well as beer in tins are bottled/tinned after the beer has already done fermenting (and therefore, no yeast in bottles/tins).
That is the reason why my barm took so long to be ready (because the vast quantity of flour/water relies on the very small quantity of levain that I put in). Had I not put in the levain (as in Dan Lepard's method), I don't know if my barm would ever be ready. Dan's recipe specifically asks for bottle-conditioned beer. As I understand from his website forum discussion, he had the levain there more for flavor, not for leavening.
Hope your parents and brother had a good visit.
shiao-ping
Thanks for the clarification, Postal Grunt and Shiao-Ping
Now we all understand what bottle-conditioned beer is and why it's important for this recipe!
Thank you for introducing
Thank you for introducing 'the Art of Eating' James MacGuire article and Breads Shiao-Ping. It's been a revelation to me to put the mixer aside and get into the dough so directly again. Revisiting time and temperature through the methods James uses has already brought about more experimentation and creativity with the simple loaves I had been making on my own.
But, I'm a bit confused about the quote from earlier today:
James MacGuire was very kind and wrote to me that:
"With regard to the Art Of Eating miche and flavor, I don't feel that the no knead or the 80% hydration are at play in terms of flavor. Calvel was fond of straight doughs---panification en direct---because the subtle fermentation flavors allowed the delicate flavors of the flour come shining through. "
I was just seeing more clearly the connection between the fermentation time and this style of handling of the dough and how directly the Bread quality seemed to be affected by the no-knead, hydration, temperature, yeast% etc.
If the no-knead and the hydration are not at play in terms of flavor where does James recommend we put our focus?
Above all, many thanks again for introducing these methods of Mr. MacGuire's. His work is hard to come by and of great help and fun to play with.
Dave
Dear ein
I believe, in terms of flavors, the focus is "flour." That's how I read it. The article stresses that the flour has to be "right" (ie, KAF's all-purpose flour) for the artisan bread we are making here. The no-knead and 80% hydration assit flour in allowing it developing the flavors. Conversely, the excessive kneading destroys the flavors that the flour otherwise is capable of developing.
This is my understanding and I am not even sure if it is absolutely correct. I welcome any comments.
Shiao-Ping
bottle conditioned beer
i am going to try this tomorrow with "Coopers Sparkling Ale" all Coopers beers are bottle conditioned. Having a sample one now.
Let us know ...
... how you go with the Coopers barm. I've checked with my local bottle supplier; they don't have anything that is bottole-conditioned beer.
Thanks.
Shiao-Ping
樸實的美.....
小蘋:
麵包,做的越來越美.....也許8月底老師朋友去拜訪妳時,可以託她們帶一個給我吃?
Dear Hsien - i,
You bet!
Shiao-Ping
Bottle-conditioned beer (again)
There have been lot of writing about what is bottle-conditioned beer, but the nail hasn't been hit exactly on the head yet. Bottle-conditioned beer is unpasturized beer that has undergone a second fermentation in the bottle by tapping the "finished" beer on the bottle with a little bit of sugar. The purpose is partly to produce CO2, instead of adding this artificially.
I guess the ale gave some flavor to the bread anyway an thus wasn't in wain. I will try this recipe when my homebrew is finished.
Thank you for your
information. shiao-ping
I am in awe,
I am in awe, Shiao-ping
Loved everything about this thred: the photo of the bread, your writing, and you join two things I am fascinated about: China and Dan Lepard :-)
I am going on with the Baker's Apprentice Challenge, and that has been limiting a little bit the kinds of bread I can try, as I only have the weekends to indulge in yeasty activities :-)
but I MUST make time to bake this barm bread. I've had the book for a few years, but never tried that one.
谢谢,
牛莎丽
Hi 牛莎丽,
It's lovely to hear from you. Dan Lepard's beguilingly light weight book "The Handmade Loaf" is a gem in an unpretentious way. I would like to do more from his book myself. Thank you for your comment.
Shiao-Ping
Beers
I looked around and found the following list of a few bottle conditioned beers:
And from AMerica:
Hi Ty,
Thank you very much for compiling the list; I don't drink beer and did not realise that beer can be aged for so long (20 years!); the taste must be very special. I haven't been able to find Australian bottle-conditioned beer, so I guess there is some research to be done on my part. Thanks again.
Cooper's are a good example
Cooper's are a good example of Australian bottle conditioned ales.
Yes, you are right about Cooper's.
I had given up on trying to find an Australian bottle conditioned beers until I read about Yozza making his own beer from a kit which is Cooper's.
Some experiments
I made this bread over the weekend with wonderful results, but I made some changes to the recipe.
To begin, I retarded the mix overnight in the refrigerator, because it better suited my work schedule. The next afternoon, I formed the cold dough into a single boule, then let it proof for 4 hours at room temperature in a banneton. I baked it on a stone at 450 for the first ten minutes, then 425 for the remainder of the bake. For steam, I used a cup of boiling water over lava rocks in an iron skillet. I got very good oven spring, a nice crust, and a moist, airy crumb with an intensely wheaty taste. I decided to refresh the leftover barm with equal weights of flour and water and try for another batch.
While the first barm took 24 hours to double, this second mixture took only about 5 hours. The yeast was apparently still active. I did as before, mixed up the dough and put it in the refrigerator overnight. This time I pre-heated the oven to 500 degrees and immediately lowered it to 450 for the first 15 minutes of baking. Then I completed the bake at 425. My loaves were smaller this time (two boules) so they only took about 50 minutes to complete.
One loaf I baked on an open stone with steam as before, and the other I baked in an Emile Henri clay pot with a cover. The boule that was baked on the stone appeared flatter with not as much oven spring as the first batch, but the interior of the loaf still had large, irregular holes and a creamy, moist crumb. The boule baked in the Emile Henri had more height, but I think I got a much better crust on the first boule, probably because I forgot to take the cover off the baker.
All in all, the second batch was very successful, producing loaves that were somewhat milder than the first but still very flavorful. The bloom was not quite so dramatic as the loaves produced with the original barm, but I suspect the reason is that I didn't allow for quite enough proofing time.
Hi Barbara
Your experiments sounded so good. They made my mouth watering and bring back the memory of my barm - the flavor was very much to my taste (unlike the recent sour Miches that I've been making). Thank you for your comment and next time I will do what you did and retard in bulk (or even another one and retard in shaped loaf). Thank you for taking time to write.
Shiao-Ping
Hi Shiao-Ping, I've learned
Hi Shiao-Ping,
I've learned so much from your posts and have so much admiration for your breads; it's my pleasure to be able to add something to the discussion.
Cheers,
Barbara
Great report!
Great report! I've been trying to set a schedule to bake this bread, since I first saw Shaoping's post - I think retarding the dough as you did will make it a lot easier.
Not sure I can make it this weekend, but maybe I can pull it during the week, using your method
Hi Sally, Doing it this way
Hi Sally,
Doing it this way makes it a three-day process (barm on day 1, mixing, folding and retarding on day 2, baking on day 3.) But at least it's an easy three days.
Barbara
Sour beers
It should be noted that these beers listed by Ty are SOUR beers.
· Lindemans (Belgium) Gueuze Cuvée René (up to 15 years)
· Frank Boon (Belgium) Gueuze Mariage Parfait (up to 20 years)
· Cantillon (Belgium) Gueuze (up to 20 years)
That is, they are fermented with wild yeasts and bacteria. Sort of like the beer equivalent to a sourdough. So expect a different, more sour, flavor if using any of these.
-Bob
Hi Bob, Many thanks for
your info. So, are the other bottle-conditioned beers listed in Ty's comment fermented by chemical fermenting agents?
Thanks, Shiao-Ping
No, Shiao-Ping, Those
other beers, like the vast majority of beers, are fermented with brewer's yeast only. The sour beers I mentioned have wild yeasts and bacteria in addition to brewer's yeast. Therefore, you may get some sourness from the bacteria if you use those.
By the way, there is no such thing fermentation chemicals. All fermentation can only be accomplished with living yeast or bacteria.
-Bob
Thanks
I'll definitely hunt for one of these to make my next barm.
FINALLY MADE IT!!!!
I am soooo happy I finally managed to make this bread!
It is absolutely delicious! The taste is quite differente from your regular levain bread, like Shiao-Ping I used only white flour. I had no idea if my barm was at its peak, as it was the first time making - I do think it was slightly past its prime time, but it worked very well
I don't think I would have tried this bread if it wasn't for this thread, so a huge thank you is in order.
I used Chimay beer, allowed it to ferment for about 30 hours - followed the recipe exactly as described in Lepard's book. Baked in a clay pot, 30 minutes covered, 15 more uncovered, at 430F
Sally...
That's a beauty!! Wow, spring, crumb, crust and slashing! The only thing I can't vouch for is taste, but I'll trust your judgement ; )
Very nice, Betty
Sally, that looks
really yummy! Thanks for showing us the photos. Shiao-Ping
Barm bread
Hello Shiao-Ping,
I am much inspired by your pictures and your version of Dan Lepord's Barm bread. They look exquisite, I must make it too. I have Dan's book and will bake soon. I heard that barm breads are rather challenging at times. I will give it a try.
Cheers, 2brownbraids
Thank you, 2brownbraids.
In fact, you may find that barm breads are NOT so challenging if you do try to make it yourself.
I made this bread today and
I made this bread today and it is amazing! I added a small peeled, steamed yukon potato to the dough mix and it came out with a crisp crust and a tender crumb. My crumb was more dense then the one in the photo, but it was soft and flavorful.
Yukon potato (I have no idea what it is) but hmmm....
it sounds beautiful to me to add that into the barm bread!
Your picture (or painting) looks beautiful to me too.
Real Ale-barm
Hi folks
i came across your site and this discussion and felt enthused to join the site and forum.
I live in the South West of England and bake once a week for a Saturday morning market. I use Ale Barm for most of my breads and have just over a years experience with it.
Let me say that I have not tried Dan Lepards recipe, but started from the Robert May loaf given in Elizabeth Davids "English Bread and Yeast Cookery".
I am fortunate that there has been a rennaissance in the brewing trade in Britain and many small breweries are thriving locally. I call on one of them each week and collect a bucketful of wonderfully rich Ale-barm. I believe this differs from barm created using bottled beers in the following ways.
The Ale-barm is a combination of yeast and partly fermented wort. It has a very pronounced bitterness from the hops, a rich maltiness and also a sweetness from the unfermented sugars. As a frequent drinker of "Real Ale" I would say that the taste of ale-barm is like a "raw" beer or perhaps half cooked. It also has an alcohol content of around 2% ABV.
The yeast content is variable and can present a challenge in producing consistent results.
My standard starter consists of 400g Ale barm, 1200g Flour, 2000g water. mixed lightly and left in covered bucket overnight. The flours I use are Dark Rye, White and Malthouse (Granary)
I use these starters to make a whole variety of breads and find that the starter method brings out the richness of the barm without imparting bitterness. The 100% rye bread that I make, using a sourdough type recipe, produces a beautiful flavoured malty loaf with a hint of sweetness.
I also use the barm with french T55 flour to make sticks and batons, and a couple of times when I have run out of compressed yeast have made croissants with barm.
The Robert May loaf works a treat every time, and I have now started making it with a White Spelt flour as I felt that this would be more similar to the coarser flour of the 17th century.
Getting late here and I still haven't found the ciabatta recipe I was looking for so will end for now.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else out there is using "real" ale-barm, and I am always happy to field questions and share what I have learnt so far.
Hello Pinpastry
First of all, thank you for joining the discussion (or rather, for contributing to our discussion). I am honored.
Second of all, I had no idea there was so much interest in Bram Bread, or breads made with "barm." When I made it, it was sort of a fluke. The beer to me was just a hydration with some "beer" flavour thrown in.
Thirdly, I didn't know there was a world out there, especially in Britain, and England in particular, that use ale-barm to leaven breads! Is this a very English (or British) thing? My husband took our two kids to London early this year and they absolutely love the English pubs (and pub food, I might add).
Next, I see that your standard starter is 200% hydration (1 part flour to 2 parts liquid). When you make your 100% rye bread, what roughly is your dough hydration? Many home bakers at The Fresh Loaf love sourdough rye breads. How long is your bulk fermentation and proofing? Do you hand mix and knead or do you use machine?
Pardon me but with "sticks and batons," do you mean baguettes and batards? So you use the English ale-barm and the French T55 flour to make baguettes? How interesting. How is the flavour different from French baguette? Richer and more flavourful crumb, I imagine.
Once again, thank you for letting us know about your ale-barm leavened varieties.
Shiao-Ping
Hi Shiao-Ping
Thank you for your kind welcome.
I am not sure that there is that much interest in Britain for making ale-barm breads, indeed my customers often glaze over when I start explaining it. They are more interested in being able to buy proper bread that hasn't been stacked with additives and tastes like cotton wool.
I only know of one other bakery in the country that makes A-B bread on a regular basis.
Your questions about hydration are a bit tricky for me. I am a self taught baker and as with most of my cooking it is more instinctive than recipe based. I do have spreadsheets that scale things up and down when estimating the number of loaves to make, but confess that at present the hydration is not accurate but a matter of feel. The 100% rye bread is made to a consistency of "soft mashed potato" which I acknowledge is a very subjective description. I have recently been joined by a friend/co-baker who was made redundant from his job as an organic chemist; he has been pushing me to take on a bit of his laboratory discipline and get the recipes scaled properly, so when this is achieved I should be able to give you a bettet answer.
The basic 100% rye recipe. (all measurements in grams)
Starter: 1200 Dark Rye flour, 400 Ale-Barm, 2000 water. mix in bucket and leave overnight (approx 12 hours)
Dough mix: 3600 starter, 1200 Medium Rye, 1500 Dark Rye, 50 Salt, 70 Dark Brown Sugar, 300-1000 water (this is a guess at present)
This is mixed in a spiral mixer on slow speed to a smooth (soft mash potato) consistency, but not given any fast mix/kneading. The wet dough is weighed out by placing a small bowl of water on the scales, 900g dough to achieve a 800 g loaf, 450g for a 400g. This goes into the loaf tin and with wet fingers it is smoothed out to give a flat surface. This is then left to rise, between 2 and 6 hours depending on ambient temperature and strength of the ale-barm. Once risen by about 25% it is baked at 425F for 30 to 40 mins.
The bread is quite quite dense and chewy, unlike a sourdough the flavour is sweet and malty. I also make the same bread with the addition of caraway seed.
I am told by several of my regular customers that this bread is very similar to German and other Northern European rye breads.
In reading about the use of ale-barm in France it appearred that is use was limited to only the finest white breads. This inspired me to devise this recipe for baguettes or batards, or French sticks as they are called locally. (all weights in grams)
3745 T55 flour, 400 Ale-barm, 90 salt, 2450 Water (this is accurate)
Place in spiral mixer, slow speed until well mixed, then fast/knead speed for 6 mins. The very soft smooth dough is placed in a lidded bucket, stood in a larger mixing bucket, overnight. In the morning it has usually reached the top of the bucket and often blown the top off. Now very wet dough is poured on to worktop and tightened up by stretching and folding . Weighed off at 460g and 230g, shaped and placed on silicon sheets on baguette trays, 6 top cuts with scissors, then into a very hot oven with steam for 10 mns, open vents and a further 10 mins in dry oven. Straight to market as they start toughening up within 4 hours. Fresh they have an amazing depth of flavour. Tried this with English Bakers No 4 flour and they really don't compare.
My apologies I meant to reply briefly and ended up with an essay. Will attempt to get some photos for you. I feel that my next post might also contain a few questions that the people on here might help me with.
Happy Baking
Ken
Hi Ken
Thank you very much for your detailed reply. Your 100% rye recipe is very interesting. To my knowledge, at TFL, both Hansjoakim (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/blog/hansjoakim) and David (http://www.thefreshloaf.com/blog/dmsnyder) do a lot of rye breads. Most home bakers here at The Fresh Loaf use Jeffrey Hamelman's formulas from his book "Bread."
I find your French baguette recipe using ale-barm especially interesting. That's quite a high hydration (76%) that you are using. A standard baguette hydration is 67%. I would love to try your formula if only I could source the ale-barm here in Australia.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Shiao-Ping
barm bread
Hi Ken,
I am late to this thread---just found it, but I must tell you how much I enjoyed your post and your descriptions of dough consistencies. I have been baking with sourdough since the early '70s but have always been a little resistant to baking with a calculator on my worktable. It somehow took away from intimacy with and feedback from the dough--which is where so much of the pleasure of baking is for me. But "soft mashed potato", that I get! I can feel the perfect dough just reading about it.
I am very eager to try your rye bread (1/10 of the recipe should be just right). I'm on my way out for a bottle of Chimay right now....
Jolynn
Mashed potato and beer!
Hi Jolynn
I have been an infrequent visitor to this site and was a bit surprised to see this thread had got going again.
Since I posted the recipe for my Ale-barm Rye we have adjusted the recipe, somewhat in response to customer feedback, but also by trial and error development. We now make the starter with dark rye and then use all light rye in the dough. Once the dough is made in the mixer it is covered and given an hour or so rising before weighing it off into tins. The dough starts at a mashed potato consistency but is much lighter and spongey after this hours rest.
The bread has been lighter and less "brick-like" in appearnce since this change.
We also make about ten other Ale-barm leavened breads each week and have started experimenting with using fermenting cider as a leaven.
My fellow baker and I work out of an organic farm on the edge of Exeter, Devon. We sell at a weekly market in Topsham and also the farmers markets at Bovey Tracey, Cullompton and Killerton House ( A National Trust Property). You can find us on the Real Bread Campaigns websites bread finder page, and we hope to have our own website up and running soon - where we will feature more of our recipes
Good luck with the "Chimay" bread.
Ken
Barm in British baking
Dear Shiao-Ping,
As a newcomer to this website it has been really interesting to follow this thread and to read about your baking of Dan Lepard's barm bread and Pinpastry's current baking of bread with ale-barm. The loaves look delicious!
As someone originally from the North of England who has also worked in London I hope you don't mind me replying to some of the references in your post. I'm glad that your husband and sons enjoyed London. In terms of British leavening techniques, ale-barm was used traditionally to leaven breads. Traces of this practice remain in the phrase 'barm cakes', which can refer to breads made traditionally in northern England and historically to ale yeast mixed with dry ingredients and pressed into cakes for bread making. Barm cake breads are usually small, flattened, floured loaves or rolls. They can still be bought today but are now more usually made with commercial baker's yeast. Qahtan has posted a recipe for sourdough Lancashire barm cakes on TFL at http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/2559/help-barm-cake-recipe. However some researchers suggest that in medieval times a wider range of breads were produced with ale-barm, as a complement to beer making within Europe and that more liquid barm 'starters' were also used. There are some more reflections on this topic on this link http://www.gallowglass.org/jadwiga/SCA/cooking/recipes/bread2.html.
It's good then to hear of Dan Lepard and Pinpastry reviving and extending this traditional practice of using barm to bake contemporary bread.
Regards, Daisy_A
European regional breads
Hi Daisy_A,
A big welcome to you and thank you for your comment. It is always nice to hear from someone at the source.
In my sourdough baking, I have mainly focused on French style of pain au levain bread and variations of it. This barm bread was really my very first English style of naturally leavened bread, and how nice was it! There are many truly erudite home bakers here at The Fresh Loaf as can been seen from the comments to this long thread.
It was suggested to me that Daniel Leader's Local Breads is one great book for following Europe's great artisan bakers from all regions. One day I will indulge myself that privilege.
In the mean time, today is the first day of school and University holidays, my daughter had two beautiful girl friends sleeping over last night. (I thought "sleepovers" were only popular with grade 6 or 7 kids, but evidently not.) Right at this minute, all three girls are enjoying a freshly baked pain au levain for their breakfast, and judging by their laughters and chatterings, I think they are enjoying it.
Have a great day!
Shiao-Ping
Dear Shiao-Ping, Many thanks
Dear Shiao-Ping,
Many thanks for your warm welcome!
I should say that as well as being a newcomer to this site I am also a newcomer to baking artisan breads. I have been cultivating a sourdough starter and taking baby steps through a range of international breads in order to practice different techniques while the sourdough matures - like ciabatta for working a wet dough and Swedish spiced limpa bread as my first rye bread. I have been really encouraged by the range of advice and real support on this site. I haven't tried pain au levain yet but hope to soon!
The knowledge of barm bread comes from my northern roots, as I remember my family talking about it and buying it so I tried to find out a bit more about it. However it seemed that its history in artisan bread making had got a bit lost so it's great to see the discussion that you have facilitated on this thread.
As I have several friends from other European countries I am also interested in finding out about different bread traditions, so the Leader book is a great suggestion. Thank you.
You paint such a lovely picture of your daughter sharing the bread you baked with friends. I had just done a second baking of the limpa bread, which improved on the first, when one of my closest friends rang to say she was driving south from Yorkshire and could she stop by to see us. Of course we put the kettle on and shared the bread . Thank you for reminding me that this is one of the reasons that we bake.
With best wishes, Daisy_A
Great thread
Hi Shiao-Ping and Daisy_A,
I've thoroughly enjoyed reading through this thread. Thanks.
I was a very keen home brewer whilst at University in the mid 1980s.
All our beer was real, ie. live in the bottle.
Shiao-Ping, if you want this in Australia, look out for Cooper's bottled beers. At least some of their range is "live" beer. You'll probably get some expert advice from Derek [yozzause], as I know he is well into using beer in his baking.
Where do you do your baking Ken [pinpastry]? Great to read about your exploits.
Best wishes to all
Andy
SOS!
Shiao-Ping (or anyone who has experience with barm breads),
I have prepared the balm as per Dan Lepard's recipe, and it has been resting for around 16 hours now...but the ale is sitting on top, and underneath is a sludge of flour and starter. I've stirred the barm mix a couple of times, but after a while this separation of ale and flour sludge occurs again.
My starter is fresh and active, and I maintain the feeding daily; I have used it successfully many times for baking all sorts of sourdough breads, bagels, banana bread, etc. So I'm sure there is no problem with the starter.
I'm just wondering, should it be obvious by looking at the barm that fermentation has taken place? I note Shiao-Ping's took 36 hours to look bubbly, and I'm hoping mine will also come good in time, but at the moment it doesn't look very promising!
Would be grateful for any insights or soothing reassurances!
Cheers
Ross
Reviving Ale-barm
I don't know if this is the same for barm you have produced, but, with the ale-barm that I collect from the brewery this seperation happens after a week or so in the fridge. If the barm is low in oxygen the yeast will mostly produce alcohol and slowly dies and turns sour. By regularly stirring and aerating the barm it can be kept for several weeks.
If your separated barm does not smell or taste sour then i would stir it up and give it a bit more time to recover.
Yeast + sugar + water + oxygen >>>>> yeast will multiply
Yeast + sugar + water - oxygen >>>>> yeast will produce alcohol
good luck
Ken
Moment of truth approacheth
Thanks, Ken, but I decided to go ahead and make the dough when bubbles started bursting regularly on the surface of the ale. I had been stirring the barm every few hours, but the separation of ale and flour/starter continued. Anyway, the dough appears to be rising, and is in the final 2 hours of proofing before going into the oven...feeling optimistic, but we shall see.
Barm!
Thanks for sharing your adventure in barm breadmaking. I just came across the term, and as an amateur brewer as well as cook I was intrigued with the idea of making my own bread using the barm from my beermaking. I will be trying it out using your guidelines next time I brew!
One step I am curious about is where you heat the ale to 70C. That's high enough temperature to pasteurize, which in theory would kill any active yeast in the beer. Obviously something was fermenting when you tried it, so either not all yeast cells were killed (though as others pointed out if you were not using bottle-conditioned beer you likely had no active beer yeast in there to begin with) or you were getting activity from wild yeast or bacteria in your environment-- lactobacillus is everywhere, and as you probably know is what provides that tangy associated with sourdough bread (lactobacillus is also the bane of most brewers!).
Hi BeerTitan You are quite
Hi BeerTitan
You are quite right that 70C is high enough temperature to kill the active yeast. Dan Lepard's original recipe is using the ale for flavouring, not leavening; and that's why it did not matter that I used non-bottle conditioned beer for my sourdough in the post. (If you check Dan Lepard's book, you will find that many of his sourdough bread formulas use commercial yeasts too.) I did not know it at the time when I wrote the post that the beer that I used was not bottle contitioned beer. I relied solely on my sourdough starter for the rising of the bread.)