The weather has finally cooled off a bit, enough for another attempt at Giorilli Panettone. I also finally have some free time for the planning and baking now that I am between locum duties and trips. I have my fingers crossed for this one. I’m not sure if it will make a difference or not, but I had been skipping one of the steps of the shaping. There is an extra shaping and tightening step right after an uncovered rest on the countertop that I wasn’t doing. I have my doubts that it will make a difference but we’ll see. It is incredible that in the time it takes to snap a quick photo immediately before turning the panettone upside down, it does deflate a bit. We’ll see if hanging upside down might allow it to regain some of its glory, I’m doubtful.
Makes 1 large loaf (950 g) + 250 g extra dough
Prep Time 4 days
Cook Time 50-55 minutes
Two day starter preparation - Day 0 to Day 1
Aim to get starter active enough that it triples when fed 1:0.5:1 in 4 hours at 82ºF.
To deal with the overnight, create a stiff sweet starter by feeding the starter 1:0.5:1 and sugar 50% of total water and ferment at 78ºF. This will reduce the LAB population and slow the starter to last overnight and not be too acidic.
10 g starter, 5 g water, 3.75 g sugar and 10 g flour overnight (about 12 hours 77°F) and then follow with 3 feeds at 1:0.5:1. 12 g starter:6 g water:12 g flour twice then the final starter feed needs to have a final total weight of >30 g in order to make enough levain.
Final levain build 30 g starter, 15 g water and 30 g flour.
I believe we are targeting a pH of around 4.1 for the final levain.
Ingredients
First dough:
- Levain 75 g of 50% hydration
- 120 g water
- 240 g high gluten flour (~15% protein)
- 75 g sugar (superfine/caster) (see note)
- 75 g butter , softened not melted and cut into several pieces (put in proofing box)
- 55 g egg yolks (about 4)
Second dough:
- 60 g high gluten flour (15% protein)
- 2 g diastatic malt
- 70 g sugar (superfine/caster)
- 95 g egg yolks (about 5 or 6) divided to be added gradually
- 1/2 teaspoon salt (~3 grams) on 2nd day can add the salt to the aromatic mix
- All of the aromatic mix (recipe follows)
- 95 g butter, softened (not melted, put in proofing box) and cut into several pieces, divided to be added ¾ and finally ¼
- 120 g rehydrated white raisins, weigh after soaking
- 60 g candied orange , diced small
- 30 g candied citron , diced small
Candied Peel (Orange or Lemon)
Aromatic mix:
- 30 g honey
- 1 vanilla bean
- half lemon grated
- half orange grated
Egg wash (optional)
- One egg beaten with a splash of milk or cold water
- Instructions
- Two day starter preparation - Day 0 to Day 1
- Aim to get starter active enough that it easily triples when fed 1:0.5:1 in 4 hours at 82ºF.
- Do three feeds of 10 g starter 5 g water 10 g high protein flour on day 0 starting at 7 am
- To deal with the overnight, create a stiff sweet starter by feeding the starter 1:0.5:1 and sugar 50% of total water and ferment at 77ºF. This will reduce the LAB population and slow the starter to last overnight and not be too acidic.
- 7 pm 10 g starter, 5 g water, 3.75 g sugar and 10 g flour overnight (about 12 hours 77°F)
- Then Day 1 (three feeds prior to levain build)
- 2 feeds at 1:0.5:1. 12 g starter:6 g water:12 g flour twice. The final starter feed needs to have a final total weight of >30 g in order to make enough levain.
- Around 3 pm do final levain build 30 g starter, 15 g water and 30 g flour.
- I believe we are targeting a pH of around 4.1 for the final levain.
- ***Day 1***. Overview and Preparation
- Overview of day 1: prepare aromatic mixture (will sit for 24 hours until day 2), soak raisins (soaks for 1.5 hours), refresh levain/starter 3 times throughout morning and afternoon (example, 8AM, noon, and 3PM), and then make first dough in evening (45 mins to 1 hour active time)
- Mix Aromatic Blend and Soak Raisins
- To begin, mix ingredients for aromatic blend in a small jar, cover and let sit for 24 hours
- Rehydrate raisins by soaking them in bowl of hot water for 30 minutes, rinse well and then soak again in warm water for 1 hours. Drain and then place on paper towel and let sit overnight. Make sure to re-weigh raisins once hydrated because you will need less as they will weigh more.
- Refreshing your Starter/Levain (Liquid)
- Ensure that your levain has been refreshed enough times so that it is very active prior to Day 0. See above Day 0-1 starter prep. The 50% hydration starter fermented at 82°F should triple within 4 hours.
- Mixing the First Dough (Primo Impasto) - evening of day 1. Once the levain has tripled, place it in the freezer to cool prior to use about 10-15 mins. Refrigerate the mixing bowl, and everything else other than the butter prior to mixing to help ensure a cool dough temperature during mixing below 78°F.
- When ready to mix the first dough, add the levain to the bowl of a stand mixer, along with flour and water. (For Ankarsrum Assistent start with dough hook, adding sugar at the start with the levain, water and flour before adding butter.)
- Mix for 10 to 15 minutes, then add sugar and then softened butter in several pieces. (For the Ankarsrum Assistent fold the butter into the dough in the bowl one at a time to speed butter incorporation using the dough hook or kneading butter in by hand.)
- Only after butter is completely incorporated add the 4 egg yolks in several stages switching to the roller and paddle.
- Ensure that the dough temperature stays under 26 degrees C (78F). If it goes higher, place dough in freezer for 10 minutes (remember this for second dough too)
- Mix for 25 minutes until you get a silky smooth elastic dough. The dough should achieve a great windowpane.
- Bulk Rise of First Dough (12 hours/overnight)
- Place dough in large container (three times the size of the dough, I should use the 2nd largest bowl), cover, and let rise at 28/30 C (82 to 86F) for 12 hours. The target pH of the primo impasto is > 5.0 I believe.
- Once tripled in size, place in freezer for 30 mins to cool. This will help avoid overheating during the long mixing of secondo impasto
- ***Day 2***. Overview and Mixing of Second Dough (Secondo Impasto)
- Overview: Make dough two (45 mins), form loaves/rest dough (1 hour), let loaves rise (6 to 9 hours), and bake (35 mins to 1 hour, depending on liner size, see note)
- To begin, consider placing dough/bowl/hook/flour/fruit in refrigerator (everything except the butter) while measuring ingredients for dough two or even overnight.
- When ready to proceed, add flour and diastatic malt to the day 1 dough and mix at slow speed then medium for 15 minutes using the hook. (For the Ankarsrum Assistent start with first dough, flour, diastatic malt in the bowl and use the dough hook. Once most of the flour is incorporated gradually add the sugar. Once the dough starts to loosen after all the sugar has been added, switch to the paddle and roller then add half the egg yolks)
- Slowly incorporate sugar
- Afterwards, add half the egg yolks, salt, and aromatic blend.
- Knead until smooth and homogenous
- Add 70 grams (about 3/4) of the softened butter, mix well, and then the rest of the yolks.
- Knead well until smooth and strong so that the dough passes a great windowpane. Then add the remaining butter. After the butter is well incorporated finally add the raisins/tart cherries, and the candied peel mixing until well distributated.
- Bulk Rise of Second Dough
- Remove from machine onto buttered counter to weigh and divide if needed. Let stand in buttered or oiled covered bowl for 30 minutes. For my formula, I will aim for 950 g main dough and the rest divided into about 8-10 small boules and placed directly into muffin cups in muffins pans to proof. These will bake before the panettone.
- Remove dough from bowl onto buttered counter. Form into tight boule. and let sit uncovered on counter for 15-30 minutes. Tighten the boule and then transfer to the form.
- https://youtu.be/NgVxXgaey_A?si=l7yIJbl2_k8_glx_ shaping video.
Final Rise of Second Dough
Once the dough is in the form, pass the skewers through the form near the bottom of the form to save time and reduce risk of the panettone collapsing once out of the oven. Place these just above the bottom of the form, placing them much higher can result in them tearing through the panettone a bit when it is hanging upside down. If the skewers aren’t that sharp, snip two small holes with scissors where you want to start skewering the mold.
- Allow dough to rise in liners placed on a on baking sheet, covered by plastic wrap at a temp of 28 to 30 C (82 F to 86F) for 6 to 9 hours. You may leave the covered dough inside the oven (turned off!) with the oven light turned on for warmth if you have a cool kitchen.
- The dough should rise within 1 inch of top of mold at the edge where it meets the form. If it rises more than that, you risk getting a mushroom shaped panettone, which is not considered ideal. Preheat the oven and uncover the panettone at this point.
Preparing to Bake
- In the meantime, before baking, pre-heat the oven to 165 C (330 °F) and allow panettone to form skin by uncovering for 15 to 20 minutes prior to baking.
- Just before baking, brush the top with an egg wash and sprinkle the decorating sugar on top. Next cut a cross on top of panettone prior to baking and add a chunk of butter to the center
Bake loaves
330°F for 50 mins or so.
- Center should read 94 C (201 F) when done (takes about 50 to 55 minutes for 1 kg dough; see note for baking according to size). After 50 mins at 330°F I dropped the temperature to 315°F and baked for a final 5 mins.
- If baking panettini in muffin pans, have them baked before the panettone to avoid opening the oven during baking. Bake 330°F for 25-30 mins.
Invert and cooling of loaves
- To cool, immediately invert loaves and hang upside down inside a deep pot. The loaves stick to the side of liners so they should not fall out. When serving, it is okay to cut right through paper and peel it off).
- After completely cooled for 10-12 hours, place the loaves in plastic/cellophane bags. Before wrapping in plastic, you must wait 10 to 12 hours for loaves to completely cool. (to reduce risk of mold, consider spraying inside of bags with pure food grade alcohol and dry out completely before using)
- Panettone is best eaten at least 5 days after baking as the flavors continue to develop after baked.
My primo impasto had a pH of 5.22 this morning and had more than quadrupled in size. I was a bit concerned that its pH would have been less than 5.0 based on the rise, but it wasn’t.
I’ll have to circle back with more photos including updating the title shot after the panettone has cooled. I’ll also try to let it sit for a few days before slicing it. At least I have the panettini to eat until then.
The candied peel was homemade once again.
The panettini are delicious and the crumb is so light!
Benny
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