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Sourdough Hot Cross Buns 100% Whole Wheat

Benito's picture
Benito

Sourdough Hot Cross Buns 100% Whole Wheat

I’ve never made hot cross buns before and have only had supermarket ones that I never liked. Having a new appreciation for candied peel I decided that I would try my hand at developing a formula for a sourdough 100% whole wheat version. This is my 1.0 version and first try at them.

For 9 buns in a 9 x 9” square pan

 

Add zest of one large orange or lemon to dough

Overnight Stiff Sweet Levain fermented at 76-78°F
14 g starter + 14 g brown sugar + 19 g water + 42 g whole wheat flour

Tangzhong prepared the night before and refrigerated
25 g whole wheat flour + 123 g milk (skim to whole)
Take butter out in the morning.

Final Dough
120 g milk (could hold back 10-15 g of the milk) + 100 g eggs (2 large eggs) + all Tangzhong + all levain + 1.65 g diastatic malt (optional) + 4.82 g salt + 21 g sugar + 285 g whole wheat flour + 70 g butter

Egg-milk wash
Mix 1 egg + 1 tbsp of milk

Lemon Icing
1 tbsp lemon juice + ½ cup icing sugar

Instructions
Levain
Mix the levain ingredients in a jar or pyrex container with space for at least 300% growth.
Press down with your knuckles or silicone spatula to create a uniform surface and to push out air.
At a temperature of 76ºF, it typically takes up to 10-12 hours for this sweet stiff levain to be at peak. For my starter I typically see 3-3.5 times increase in size at peak. The levain will smell sweet with only a mild tang.
Tangzhong
In a sauce pan set on medium heat, stir the milk and flour until blended. Then cook for several minutes until well thickened, stirring regularly with a spoon or heat-resistant spatula. Let cool in the pan or, for faster results, in a new bowl. Theoretically it should reach 65ºC (149ºF) but I don’t find I need to measure the temperature as the tangzhong gelatinizes at this temperature. You can prepare this the night before and refrigerate it, ensure that it is covered to prevent it from drying out.

Dough
Prepare the dried fruit (currants, raisins or blueberries) mist them with water then microwave for 15 secs. This will quickly plump them up without them later adding more hydration to your dough.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, add the milk (consider holding back 10 g of milk and adding later if this is the first time you’re making this), egg, tangzhong, salt, sugar, diastatic malt, zest and levain. Mix and then break up the levain into many smaller pieces. Next add the flour and vital wheat gluten. I like to use my spatula to mix until there aren’t many dry areas. Allow the flour to hydrate (fermentolyse) for 20-30 minutes. Mix on low speed and then medium speed until moderate gluten development this may take 5-10 mins. You may want to scrape the sides of the bowl during the first 5 minutes of mixing. Next drizzle in the melted butter a little at a time, or alternatively add room temperature butter one pat at a time. Slow the mixer down to avoid splashing the butter at you. The dough may come apart, be patient, continue to mix until it comes together before drizzling or adding in more butter. Once all the butter has been added and incorporated add mixed peel and currants and continue to mix until well incorporated. Increase the speed gradually to medium. Mix at medium speed until the gluten is well developed, approximately 10 mins. You will want to check gluten development by windowpane during this time and stop mixing when you get a good windowpane. You should be able to pull a good windowpane, not quite as good as a white flour because the bran will interrupt the windowpane somewhat.

On the counter, shape the dough into a tight ball, cover in the bowl and ferment for 2.5-3.5 hours at 82ºF. There may be some rise visible at this stage.

You can next place the dough into the fridge to chill the dough for about 1.5 hours, this makes rolling the dough easier to shape. Remember, if you do so the final proof will take longer. Alternatively, you can do a cold retard in the fridge overnight, however, you may find that this increases the tang in your bread.

Prepare your pan by greasing it or line with parchment paper. Lightly dust the top of the dough with flour and using a bowl scraper remove the dough from the bowl placing it on the counter. Next divide the dough into 9 equal pieces and shape each into a tight boule. Place each boule into the prepared 9” x 9” pan. Cover and start final proof at 82°F for 5-7 hours, the dough will start to almost fill the pan when final proof is complete and will pass the finger poke test.


About 30 mins before ready to bake brush your egg-milk wash onto the buns. Repeat this just before they go into the oven.

Bake

Preheat your oven, with a rack in the lower half, to 350°F (175°C). You should aim to start preheating your oven about 30-40 mins prior to the dough being full proofed. Once your oven is preheated, remove your pan from its bag, slide it into the oven, and bake for 30 to 35 minutes.

The rolls are finished baking when the tops are well-colored and the internal temperature is around 195°F (90°C). Remove the rolls from the oven and let the rolls cool completely before piping on the lemon icing crosses otherwise the icing will melt.


They turned out quite well especially for a first go at this. They are tender but full of fruit. I actually used dried blueberries instead of the more traditional currants because I had the dried blueberries. I like the extra citrus hints from the zest.

Comments

GaryBishop's picture
GaryBishop

Wow! I would definitely eat that!

Fabulous!

Benito's picture
Benito

Thank you kindly Gary I’d love to share them with you. 
Benny

gavinc's picture
gavinc

Benny, they look fabulous and very tasty. I'm reminded that I have to start baking a few batches to freeze for Easter. We go camping with family for a week and always run out of hot cross buns. What would you adjust for version 1.1?

Cheers,

Gavin

Benito's picture
Benito

Thank you Gavin, I have to say that I liked these very much and they are the first HXB that I have enjoyed eating.  For a next bake I think I needed to proof a bit longer and also knead longer for a better windowpane.  I think I was short on both counts this time, so better technique rather than change anything in the formula.  That being said, I might also see how 50% WW would be, just to get the crumb fluffier and a bit lighter.  The flavours are all there though so the spices and fruit additions I liked.

Benny

HeiHei29er's picture
HeiHei29er

They look great Benny and the dried blueberries sounds delicious.  Could go for one right now with my morning coffee!

Benito's picture
Benito

Yes one of the buns went well with my morning tea, thank you Troy.

Benny

Our Crumb's picture
Our Crumb

They certainly couldn't look any better Benny.  And with Tz, maybe they're as light and fluffy as one expects proper HXBs to be.  We went with SD year before last but returned to CY last year and, in the aforeposted dry run, this year as well.  50% ww is as high as I'm tempted to go with these but, like you, I need to work the dough a bit more on the next 'dry run'.  Fluffy is the operative cumb descriptor here.  And dry runs can continue only long as our supply of the two precious imported "mixed" ingredients holds up:  mixed spice and mixed peel.  Probably easier to come by across the border in M&Sland than here where KA is the only source we've used when necessary.

As I recall Richard Bertinet said, accompanying his (100% AP and uber-fluffy) HXB recipe:  It's too bad these make their way to the table only during a brief period each year.  When they're good (i.e., not store-bought), they're awfully good.

t

Benito's picture
Benito

Thanks so much Tom.  I think they could be fluffier.  I think I didn't knead long enough to fully develop the gluten and the proof could have gone longer.  So I will need to have another go at these before hopefully bringing a 9x13" set of them up to my in laws house for Easter long weekend.  I do think that the tangzhong is a good idea to bring more moisture to the buns and have them stay fresh longer.  Thanks also for sharing your HXB recipe.

Benny

Our Crumb's picture
Our Crumb

Wow that is an interesting HXB recipe you've worked up there Benny:  Citrus zest, blueberries, sweet stiff levain, tangzhong, 100%ww, dmalt, VWG.  But hey, I've been called out for mine's heretical yankee as opposed to UK origins: KA's Easy Hot Cross Buns, with 50% fresh hard white flour (hey, King Arthur was British -- doesn't that count?). 

As KA suggests, I microwave currants + mixed peel + rum for a minute or so the night before, then refrigerate o/n and drain (squeeze, blot) well before folding into dough.  Last 'dry run' omitted butter (^margerine) and whole eggs (^whites) for LDL surveillance chez nous.  But clearly not worth the detrimental effect on crumb texture for this ~once/year holiday treat -- more moist and gooey than fluffy -- as opposed to acceptable LDL tweaks for sweets in regular rotation.  Back to butter and whole eggs next time for sure.

I haven't in fact posted our current KA mod HXB recipe.  Will do after next 'dry run'.  Need more rum...

t

Benito's picture
Benito

Oh I'm obviously losing my mind, I was sure you posted your recipe at some point.  I spritzed the blueberries with water and microwaved them, I didn't think about doing the same for the candied peel, the idea never occurred to me.  Actually doing them with some liquor is a great idea thanks for suggesting that.  Since these are breads we don't eat everyday, I think we need to use the butter and eggs!  Hope you share your bake when you've done it I'll look forward to it Tom.

Benny

JonJ's picture
JonJ

Lovely creativity and nice to see the extension of your WW tangzhong breads to this. Any reason why you left out the VWG? Did you consider using less wholewheat for this one?

-Jon

Benito's picture
Benito

Good question about the VWG, I hadn't been using it lately for my Hokkaido milk bread so wanted to see how it worked out for this bread.  In fact that might be a good thing to add to these to get more lift in the dough so that could be a 1.1 version change.  Thanks Jon.

Benny

Lornadoone's picture
Lornadoone

Good morning Bennie,

Your Hot Cross buns look great but as a Brit may I make a few suggestions ?

We do not  bake the buns in a pan so that they merge together but rather bake them separately on a cookie sheet. Also the icing cross is not used but a cross is cut before baking and left to open or a flour and water paste can be used to make a cross on top of the buns.

Traditionally they are cut in half toasted and slathered in butter.

BTW, I detested candied peel so I add extra fruit.

Enjoy,

Lorna

Benito's picture
Benito

Duly noted Lorna, but we in the colonies often do non traditional things.  I may try making them on a cookie tray next time and I'll look into a different method for the cross perhaps as well.

MTloaf's picture
MTloaf

Where these out of the oven before I made the comment in the other thread about the icing?  Oops 😬 You need to try Hamelman’s crossing paste. It really adds a nice touch but with a little more work involved. 
Hot cross
His recipe makes a lot of paste so I went heavy with it. the sugar water is brushed on after they are baked. 
Not sure why my IPad always rotates the photo 

idaveindy's picture
idaveindy

It looked to me like all my portrait orientation photos got rotated to landscape. So I solved like this:

  • Set camera app to "Square" picture format.
  • Back away from the subject to allow extra, un-needed, background at top and/or bottom. 
  • Take the photo.
  • Edit the photo, rotate it if necessary (sometimes my ipod-touch camera does unwanted rotating), and crop out the extra background at top and/or bottom. This makes the photo become landscape mode, and therefore TFL won't rotate it.
  • This  method also has the side benefit of keeping the photo's file size under 2 MB, because I'm cropping it.  Uncropped photos from my ipod-touch can easily go over TFL's 2 MB (approx) maximum.

HTH.

Benito's picture
Benito

Your post should be a sticky Dave.

MTloaf's picture
MTloaf

With my desktop computer. My newest phone doesn’t have the square option and portrait is a large file. I use the text editor to reduce the file size for uploading. Drag and drop would be a nice option to have. Thanks for the help. 

Benito's picture
Benito

Nope I read it and didn’t follow your preference, I don’t think we always have to agree (even if we mostly do) 😉.  Partly because I kinda like lemon icing and because I don’t have Hamelman’s book so don’t know what it is that he does exactly.  Perhaps you can share his pale paste recipe with me Don?

MTloaf's picture
MTloaf

Flying blind this whole time! At least without instruments. You really should have a copy of The book. If I was only allowed one bread book(shudder) it would be this one. I gladly pm’ed the recipe to you and also to avoid copyright infringement. 
Don

Benito's picture
Benito

Yes I am flying blind.  I do my research on line and make modifications to my Hokkaido milk bread recipe for this bake.  I typically make up recipes adjusting things over time.  I have seldom made any breads from a recipe in any of the books I own LOL.

Benny

MTloaf's picture
MTloaf

I look at several recipes and use parts of each to make one dish. The value to me in Hamelman’s book is not so much the recipes but the foundational stuff and the anecdotal insights. I was going to get the 3rd edition to replace my dog eared copy of the first but I heard the printing quality makes it hard to read and then it was revised so I am going to wait until I can find one in a bookstore rather than order online. 
Don

Benito's picture
Benito

I’m hoping that the e-book version of it might go on sale at some point or at least decrease to a more reasonable price.

MTloaf's picture
MTloaf

Although I understand the e-book version isn’t fully functional or viewable on a paper white so that and the price makes it a tough sell. 

happycat's picture
happycat

Every year my mother bought hot cross buns and every year they were terrible :p

Yours look and sound delicious. Blueberries with lemon icing. Yum! We always had the dough cross versions from the supermarket. Yuk.

I tried making some sourdough ones a couple years ago and utterly failed. Maybe I'll give your recipe a go for Easter. Will you be doing more versions?

Benito's picture
Benito

Yes I think I’ll try a lemon flavoured flour paste version, that way I can use an apricot jam coating for a nice shine on it and eat them warm.  With the lemon icing they have to cool to ice them so they aren’t really HOT cross buns anymore.😂

Benny