The Fresh Loaf

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Auvergne Rye / Seigle d'Auvergne

Anonymous baker's picture
Anonymous baker (not verified)

Auvergne Rye / Seigle d'Auvergne

Lovely recipe from Stanley Ginsberg "The Rye Baker". A two day process with a two stage sponge. This is definitely one well fermented sourdough. Each stage of the two sponges taken to the outer limits of fermentation. Very high hydration, allowed to peak and fall back to the original size reducing the sponges to a very frothy mixture with a lovely aroma. 

Had to go out after mixing the salt into the final dough so placed the bowl in the fridge intending to carry on with the bulk ferment till it's doubled in size as recommended. Came back to find the bulk ferment done. Recipe calls for a 2.5 hour room temperature bulk. After placing it in the fridge for 5 hours with no time at room temperature (apart from the short rest after mixing the dough to adding the salt) it was ready. 

This is a 1761g dough which is too much for my Pullman (as I found out) but not enough leftover for another loaf. Recipe recommends two loaves but half as much would be too small for the pullman. I went ahead and made one big loaf only to find that it grew so tall I couldn't get it out of my oven unless I tipped it on its side. 

Certainly the biggest loaf I've made. It's now cooling and will be cut into tomorrow. With the long process, two high hydration long ferment sponges and aroma coming from the oven I'm sure it'll taste excellent. 

Thank you Stanley. 

David R's picture
David R

?

Keep making those and soon you'll need a bigger house! ?

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

It is nice not to have to scale down recipes. 

yozzause's picture
yozzause

look forward to seeing the interior! A nice write up and  looks like it will be worth having a go at in the near future thanks Abe and Stan kind regards Derek

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

Crumb shot and taste report tomorrow. I've learned my lesson not to jump the gun. This was a lesson in extreme fermentation. I was a bit skeptic but trusted the system. When it started to fall back it went against the grain to wait but the recipe explains this is ok. The Rye Baker is a great site. Thank you Derek. 

msneuropil's picture
msneuropil

Recently another poster made this...BUT he was NOT using the one in the book which is 50% rye...his link was to one for 70% ish...

I definitely will try the one in the book again cause it had a wonderful taste...but need to shape it better or perhaps...like you...put in a pan.  

Can't wait to see the crumb!  The one in the book was good to go in a few hours...or in other words...someone cut into it so they could eat it warm.  

I wouldn't try it with a 70% rye...but I can't fight people with knives determined to spread butter on a piece.  

 

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

http://theryebaker.com/auvergne-ryepain-seigle-dauvergne/#more-517

It has 72.5% whole rye and 27.5% bread flour. There are 3 Auvergne recipes on the site. The other two...

http://theryebaker.com/sourdough-tourte-de-seigle/#more-1000

http://theryebaker.com/tourte-de-seigle/#more-891

First two a similar in procedure. The first one is 72.5% rye with a higher hydration sponges and longer ferment.  Whereas the second one is 100% rye but the sponges differ slightly and it's an overall shorter time. The third one has two sponges but one is yeasted.

The recipe does explain on shaping and final proofing in a basket but because it's rye you need to shape it with flour as supposed to just using flour to stop it from sticking. I prefer to not go down this route and just pan it.

Looking forward to tonight when i'll cut into it and have a taste. Those sponges did smell wonderful and i'm fascinated how long they were left to ferment for after they had peaked and fallen. They quite happily carried on bubbling away long after we're told it's ideal to use them.

bread1965's picture
bread1965

Abe.. your breads are looking better all the time.. not sure how you do it.. well done! frank!

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

Having a marvellous recipe to follow sure helps. Have you tried any of Stanley's recipes?

bread1965's picture
bread1965

Frankly, I find them and the whole world of dense rye breads intimidating! I've been lucky enough to have visited Stockholm a few times over the years and come love those dense seeded rye breads (like this one I just saw on Stanley's site: http://theryebaker.com/sourdough-danish-rye/#more-1191) and would like to try one that I can make well repeatedly.  But up until the last few months I've had too much going on in my personal life for the past two years to take the plunge (I know that sounds odd). I'm back to baking now and have some rye flour in the freezer that I bought a local market late in the fall that needs to be used. So maybe soon!

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

That one is HIGHLY recommended. I do love a Danish rye. I'm glad you now have time to bake more. Did notice you were gone for a while. Followed your blog on Forkish. Very well done indeed and admire how you worked your way through all the recipes. That was a recipe book well done.

Believe it or not I find ryes, in many ways, less intimidating. A lot of them is just mixing, waiting and portioning out into a loaf pan. Unlike other doughs which have stretch and folds, judging the gluten formation, pre-shape, shape etc. In other doughs hydration plays a tougher part whereas with rye being off is not as noticeable when it comes to slight variations due to flour, humidity, region etc. with rye it'll have to be really off before you notice a difference.

So pros and cons.

bread1965's picture
bread1965

The blog was fun and the process/book really grounded my understanding of bread/fermentation/levain. I don't do anything with it anymore other than direct the odd comment posted to come check out this site. But as with all things internet, it'll be online forever..

As to the Rye, I'll give it a try over the next few weeks and let you know.. thanks Abe..

msneuropil's picture
msneuropil

The recipe I used in his book...of course did not show the detail that his website does for yours as well as a couple of others I have seen...it does help a lot to see the consistency in the mixer bowl...especially with a rye...plus...the pic of the shaped dough in the banneton was a nice to see cause I'd probably think I had done something not right if I saw mine look that small.  The view of the crumb...shows me that I am not too far off with my attempts of other higher % ryes.  My problem tends to be with the final proof...but I'm working on it with the help of folks here.  I am just so paranoid of overproofing due to problems with that...so now I think I am jumping the gun.  LOL!

Did the dough for yours fill 1/2 or 2/3 in the pullman??  

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

The flour he uses is difficult to obtain so one has to make do with something close. I do all of his recipes with Dove's Farm wholegrain rye and sometimes some white rye if called for but don't like to stock it so much as it takes me a long time to use up. I'll basically stick to 100% rye recipes or if there is a mix then a recipe which has some wheat in it. And even when it calls for whole rye there are different grinds etc. But in this aspect rye is very forgiving. When it comes to wheat a small change in the hydration makes a relatively bigger difference than rye imo.

Now i'm not sure if these are stock photos or photos of the actual bake but while the consistency of my dough was close the dough looks different. His wholegrain rye flour appears to be a soft brown colour with no specks. A single shade. My wholegrain rye is darker with the bran showing within the dough. hope I've described that clearly.

His timings seem to be very close. Unless your temps are far off or your starter/sponge haven't been fermented to the same stage then you shouldn't have to veer off the recipe too much.

While filling the pan I thought about stopping at 2/3rds full but the size of the pan and how much dough I had meant the left over would be too small for another loaf and didn't wish to waste nor keep it for another time since I bae once a week. So I filled it somewhere between 3/4 and 4/5 full. When the final proof had finished it had risen to high to keep the lid on so I fashioned another lid out of tin foil and left a gap for it to rise. Rise it did and very well to! It filled the make shift lid and pushed it up further. Wanted it covered for the steaming effect.

Alan.H's picture
Alan.H

As with previous comments I can't wait to see the interior. It is already on my to do list, which I suspect is already longer than my allotted time.

Thank you for posting this.

Alan

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

From the photo I should be expecting a dense bread and it is a tinned loaf to-boot. But I am expecting a very flavoursome loaf. The sponges technique did fascinate me. Will be cutting into it tonight.

I wish to work my way through all the recipes on his site but as a once a week baker and do like to vary the grains I too need a long time to get through everything.

There is another recipe I definitely have my eye one http://theryebaker.com/wholegrain-apple-rye/

Portus's picture
Portus

My brief read through the formula indicates the use of a wooden frame, similar in a fashion for the shaping and baking of Irish batch bread.  Out of curiosity, will you be using one or do you intend to stick with metal pans?  I quite like the idea of a wooden frame and wonder if it adds or detracts from a loaf's flavour?

J

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

I too like the idea but have to make do. Actually, come to think of it, can one bake in a wooden frame? Well one must be able to but I wouldn't have thought. Thinking about the recipe I do think that apple and rye will go so well together. Are you going to try the recipe?

Portus's picture
Portus

I would love to try the recipe, Abe, but finding whole grain rye in my part of the world is rarer than finding hens' teeth!  This is something a local miller has suggested can be fixed with a mix of up to 5% crushed rye and the balance pure rye.  Failing this I will wait 'til our November UK trip.

Joe

msneuropil's picture
msneuropil

SOOOO it is dense...but looks close to the web site's pics...so putting all that dough in the pan didn't seem to be a bad idea...except...now you have to make monster sandwiches.  Does it slice thin and stay together on the way to your mouth when you pick it up?  LOL!

Sooo what if you just put half the dough in a 8X4 bread pan for 1- 1/2 lbs??  Wonder it it would fill it 1/2 way or less before rise??

Abe's picture
Abe (not verified)

One has to expect bread done in a loaf pan to be more dense then a freestanding loaf but whether done as freestanding or filling the loaf pan less so I could have allowed it to rise more it has come very close to what I can see from the photos on the website. I also retarded the bulk ferment out of necessity, shaped it when ready and left it final proof for the same amount of time as recommended in the recipe when all done at room temperature and shaped warm. I could have left it longer to rise more, if I had filled the pan less, but it was at the top of the loaf pan. So perhaps that played a part. Maybe next time i'll do it all at room temperature and do a freestanding loaf to compare. Either way the two are very similar.

Although dense it cuts easily, stays together but still a soft crumb.