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20180110 Mr. Philippe Bigot's easy panettone and more

Yippee's picture

20180110 Mr. Philippe Bigot's easy panettone and more



                                                To Mariana, my guiding angel ???


                                                   Thank you for the enlightenment! 







I have successfully made Mr. Bigot's panettone using a simple method based on Mariana's advice.***  Mr. Bigot is a French master baker who apprenticed under Professor Calvel over half a century ago. He uses unique flour combination and procedures in his panettone formula. I am intrigued to find out how good this bread is.


Mr. Bigot uses two Japanese flours, with protein contents of 10.7% and 11.5% respectively, in a 3:1 ratio to make his panettone.  He mixes the dough by hand and the final product looks like this:




 Photo credit: Chinatimes




Spectacular, isn't it?! I followed Mr. Bigot's formula exactly but used my own procedures, which were created largely based on the information Mariana had shared. 


Let's start.



Levain naturel



I converted my existing starter to 50% hydration and built it with most of Mr. Bigot's levain procedures below: 


Day 1:

100g - (10.7% protein) flour; I used King Arthur all purpose flour (11.7% protein)

50g -yeast water

malt syrup optional

mix well

DT 75.2F at  RT 75.2F x 6hrs

shrink-wrapped, tied (which I didn't do), into fridge x 24hrs


Day 2

100g - (10.7% protein) flour; again I used KA AP flour

50g - water

0.4g - malt syrup

50g - starter from previous day

mix well

DT 75.2F at RT 75.2F x 6hrs

shrink-wrapped, tied (again, I didn't do it), into fridge x 12-24hrs


repeat Day 2 procedures for 5 days to one week

starter matures when it can triple within 5-6 hours


My starter never tripled.  I decided it was active enough when it had doubled within 5-6 hours for two consecutive days. So I stopped building after the 4th day.




My starter looked like this when it was ready.


The starter was built using DBM's no-fuss method together with Mr. Bigot's procedures. 

There was no discard during the entire build. I did it that way for fun but it was quite a brain work-out to figure out the ratio and stuff. 

If you are interested to build your starter that way, please consult DBM as I may not be able to redo the math after six months. I'm sure he will figure it out for you. Right, Dab?


Mr. Bigot's instructions to refresh (1kg of starter)

Starter : AP : H2O = 1 : 2 : 1

0.8% malt syrup

mix well

DT 75.2F at RT 86F x 5-6 hours, should triple

divide into 2kg each

wrapped, tied loosely allowing 2-finger space





The following formula yields two 5.25" panettones, each weighs approximately 550-600g.






all purpose flour 175g - 41.18%

bread flour 75g - 17.65%

levain 75g - 17.65%

sugar 75g - 17.65%

water 125g - 29.41%

butter 75g - 17.65%



It's impossible for me to mix by hand. So I used my Zojirushi bread machine to incorporate the ingredients.  I controlled the amount of ingredients being mixed so that a paste could be formed. I held on to the water and only added what's needed to form a paste.  Once a paste was formed, I incorporated the remaining water using the "double hydration" method. The dough was mixed until it had reached intermediate gluten development.***


I constantly checked the dough temperature to ensure it was below 75F .  If the dough needed more mixing but it was getting warm, I cooled it in the fridge then resumed mixing.


I let the dough ferment at 81-84F for approximately12 hours. It doubled. I chilled the dough for about an hour before proceeding to the next stage of mixing.



Main Dough



all purpose flour 87g - 20.59%

bread flour 37g - 8.82%

egg yolk 187g - 44.12%

butter 37g - 8.82%

sugar 50g - 11.76%

salt 2g - 0.59%


Chilled the preferment first.  Used the same strategies when mixing: aim to form a paste, hold back liquid (yolk), maintain DT below 75F, chill if needed, then resume mixing, incorporate remaining yolk using double hydration method.


Once the dough was close to be fully developed,*** mixed with ingredients in B. below.



diced orange peels 25g - 5.88%

diced lemon peels 25g - 5.88%

raisin 75g - 17.65%

rum-soaked mixed candied fruits 75g - 17.65%

rum 5g to soak mixed candied fruits for a week (I only soaked them in the day before baking)

Please be aware not to over use the rum.  I learned it the hard way in my first attempt when I did not read the instructions carefully.  I literally doused the candied fruits and raisins with rum.  They were completely SOAKED and every raisin was plumped. The alcohol killed the dough and there was no rise at all. 




Gluten fully developed. 

Usually I would stop messing with the dough but not this time...





Bulk Fermentation



Instead, I stretch-n-folded the dough every 30 minutes for about three hours when the dough was left to ferment at approximately 82-86F. 




When the folds could no longer hold together and slipped apart right after the S&F,  divide the dough in half.




Stretch-n-folded each dough one more time. At this point the dough was strong and puffy and could be easily transferred to the molds. Bulk fermentation was complete.







Final Proof



At approximately 82-86F for about 6 hours.

Preheat oven to 356F, then turned it off.

Applied egg wash to dough.  Leave dough in oven for 5 minutes.

Took dough out. Preheat oven to 320F.

Cut the dough with scissors as shown.



 Peeled the 'crust'.



 Baked at 320F x 50 minutes.



 Used inner pots of rice and vacuum cookers to hang.  



Light as feather! ???even though much less butter (only 26%) is used than most panettone formulae.  The flour combination must have done the trick! Very little strong flour in the formula!



Great success with another master baker's panettone formula* using the same procedures!  









***In discussions with Mariana here.   

*In David Kelly's blog post here.




The End


Something special for my friends:





















dabrownman's picture

Never ever heard of peeling the top of panettone before.  Learned two new things already today!  Do you peel in pack and turn it over and put it back down where it came from so you don't lose any of that great dough? I like your crumb better than the masters and sticking the sugar on top is very nice.  I always end up with a huge pile of leftover levain that takes forever to get rid of.  You had to have 10 pounds of the stuff - what did you do with it all?

Panettone is one of the 5 breads I would have to take with me to a deserted desert Island but if I could take this one then I wouldn't need the other 4. 

Love your post Yippee.  Happy baking and mega levain storing!

Yippee's picture

My apologies for having forgotten to mention the use of no-fuss method in the build. You know it was six months ago and I'm not getting any younger!!! I updated the post and designated you as my representative to help anyone who's interested to build the levain using Mr. Bigot's and your method simultaneously. I'm sure you're ok with it. 

The peeled crust was pushed to the side and baked with the dough.  No waste there.  Neither was much leftover levain, thanks to you.

Instant pot is great but I'm not sure if I can figure out how to make panettone with it.  Bread "baked" in IP didn't seem very appetizing to me.

I'm glad you like the post. It's my "thank you" to kind bakers like you.

Happy Baking DBM!




PalwithnoovenP's picture

I have no words with how beautiful they are! Most Italian masters swear by manitoba or other super strong flour but the proof is in the photos of your panettone that it is not absolutely necessary; dreamy nice yellow light-as-air crumb! I'm intrigued actually! My first panettone adventure did not turn out as good as it was supposed to be but the flavor is heavenly. I will try to make it again when I find some candied orange and lemon peels.

Is this your first time to make this bread? And are those chocolate chips in the last photo?

I'm really happy with this bake of yours. I'm glad I saw you bake and post again. Wish to see more from you more often. :)

Yippee's picture

Hi, Pal!

Thank you, thank you!  This was my second attempt.  The first attempt failed because the excessive alcohol I used to soak the candied fruits had killed the dough/yeast.

Yes, the second panettone was made with chocolate chips.  I was still learning how to evenly distribute them.  That's why there were almost no chips in one of the slices. 

The chocolate panettone made with strong flour  was more bread-like.  Mr. Bigot's was more delicate.  They are both delicious in their own ways. 

You can make your own candied peels, if you have time.  Hope the job search is going well. 

Have you checked that special "something" I put out there? The Cantonese and Mandarin ones are especially for you.  I recorded them with your request in mind. I can say I've kept my promises.  So check them out if you haven't done so.

I'm glad you like my breads.  You are my inspiration to bake.  I will continue to bake whenever I can. See you next time.





PalwithnoovenP's picture

I'm not that techno-savvy and did not know that I was supposed to click them. Thanks for reminding me.

What a treat for my ears! Feels like I'm in a concert that only the few elite can afford. Everything was excellent from vocals to the accompaniment. You're really blessed to be able to do that. I listened to all of them and there are many French songs too, you're like Maggie Cheung. I recently discovered Mouliln rouge which I find beautiful so it was a pleasant surprise. My mom also sings some of those songs especially during her youth and she also sang in Spanish and Japanese. She sang along during Historia de un amor in Spanish. My mom and I wish to hear you sing Dahil sa 'yo, it's really perfect for your voice.

Out of all the songs, I'll say that the Cantonese one is my favorite, it's making me feel mixed emotions though I barely understand it. Thank you for keeping your promise and introducing me to an extremely nice song. It's the best Cantonese song that I heard. I immediately looked for the lyrics and translation so I can sing with you.

I wish to meet you to know who is behind that beautiful voice. I'm deeply touched. Thank you very much!

Yippee's picture

is a beautiful song! I've decided to sing it since you first introduced it to me. Just haven't had a chance yet.  Today I listened to the various versions again and picked my favorite.  You'll hear it from me.  Promise. 爛爛爛


dabrownman's picture

What a wonderful surprise!  My wife said, from another room,  who is singing Moulin Rouge in French and I said Yippee!  What a wonder that at least one Fresh Lofian can Sing, Play and Bake!  Now if you could Dance then you would one up Mr Michael Jackson!  Where are those 

ballet pointe chaussures

Yippee's picture

I dance too - ballroom...???

Ru007's picture

What a stunning bake! 

The method is fascinating. I didn't know about peeling back the crust. Is this just to allow the dough the expand more freely in the oven? 

I'm sure the final product tasted as good as it looks!

Well done Yippee and happy baking. 


Yippee's picture

Thank you for your kind words!  It tastes like a dream! When it touches the tongue, it leaves a cool sensation and then it melts away. It literally feels 'cool'!  Yes, peeling back the crust gives room for the dough to expand. I am so glad you like it!  Happy Baking to you, too!



suminandi's picture

Color and texture are very beautiful. And thanks for posting a detailed recipe. 

Yippee's picture

to thank the bakers who have generously shared their knowledge and experience on TFL.  I hope this post is helpful to someone who's looking for an easy and effective method to make panettone.  Please share your results if one day you make this bread.  Thank you for your compliments.