October 2, 2015 - 7:46am
whipping air into the dough
I always read that one of the main advantages of hand mixing dough is to minimize incorporating air into the mix. This helps maintain all the natural pigments in the flour from being oxidized by the extra air machine mixing introduces.
Few days ago, however, I ran into this video of Richard Bertinet explaining that whipping air into the dough helps it develop better and provides a lighter fluffier bread.
Is that correct, and is there any down side to this?
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There is a difference between whipping the air in by machine and by hand. The machine can overdo it easily, where it is difficult (if not impossible) to overdo it by hand. The french slap method he demonstrates so well is great if you want to try it out.
Here is a link to a long and detailed demonstration of French Folds. A difference that she had with Mr. Bertinet is that she does a 90 degree turn on every fold. I use her technique and generally do ~300 French Folds on almost all of my breads. It may sound long, but really only takes about 5-6 minutes with practice. The general understanding is that you cannot easily over-mix by hand. But with practice you can really incorporate a lot of air into the dough.
alan
Many thanks to both of you for the feedback and the video. From your experience what is the benefit of using this french method versus regular mixing/kneading that is recommended in most recipes?
If you look at enough write-ups on TFL where a style of mixing is stated, there doesn't seem to be any consensus of the old fashioned kneading vs. machine mixing vs. something like French Folds, also referred to as Slap and Folds.
Personally, I have a few reasons for preferring FFs to machine mixing. I do use the mixer for doughs that require intensive mixing like ciabatta. But the truth is that I really like the idea of working the dough by hand, I like the feel of it, the "control" of it, and the simplicity of it. And I like the quasi-gentleness of FFs vs. kneading or machine, although one can be quite vigorous and work out aggressions with FFs as well, if they so chose and need an outlet for that type of behavior ;-) . Not so for me!
I like feeling as though I control how the dough is being developed and how I can incorporate the air with each new FF.
I don't have doughs that exceed ~1500g total, so there isn't any awkwardness or overwhelming amount to mix anyway. If I had substantial mixes, then I'd likely rely on a machine.
For, me that about sums it up. It is not for me to say whether someone should or shouldn't use a technique that they feel comfortable with or is right for them. For those that enjoy FFs, good. Same holds true for any other method that satisfies them.
when it comes to making bread at home on a small scale. You really need to get a handle on what dough should look and feel like at various stages of gluten development so that you can tell by feel and look if the dough is properly hydrated etc.
I used to do all the slap and folds, at 35 a minute, for 8-10 minutes right at the beginning after the autolyse and then did gentle stretch and folds after that to keep the gluten development in shape as the dough bulk fermented. Now I just do 3 sets of 30 slap and folds on 30 minute intervals and then 2 sets of 4-6 slap and folds on 45 minute intervals which is 35-50% less than I used to . I have found that time is much more important than i once thought and the crumb is much softer and open when not slapping the heck out of it- letting time do the work. I also don't use bread flour much any more either finding it to be an overkill and also making for an inferior crumb
But, if I were doing a fast bread. either yeast or SD, I would go back to the 8 minutes of slap and folds at the very beginning right after the no autolyse and use bread flour for the non whole grains in the mix:-)
I used to use the machine for panettone but do slap and folds for that now too, My KA is lousy at making bread and developing gluten.
Making more than 2 loaves of bread at a time is too much like work and i want to get paid for that..
Happy Slapping ......and Folding
Well said Alfanso - I agree. There are so many ways - what right is often what works for that person.
and others might be more powerful but there really isn't any way the KA could oxidize dough. i think it would burn up first. A big commercial mixer is where you might have to worry about this happening.
I tired this method and I also noticed that the crumb is less open than without using it, but it helps make the dough strong and hold it's shape well.
If by "this method" you mean hand mixing - one can achieve a pretty darn good open crumb, which has as much to do with all of the steps subsequent to mixing as well. Correct bulk fermentation, shaping, baking/oven environment, percentage of whole grains, hydration - these all play a role in the eventual ability to produce an open crumb. As I mentioned above, I hand mix just about everything, using the technique on Babette's video. Here is a photo that I posted the other day of a baguette with an open crumb.
As you said, the air causes the flour to oxidize, and while it hurts the bread flavor, it doe's help gluten formation and therefore improves the raise and texture. Most commercial breads contain oxidizing agents that helps them be fluffier and lighter. The flour you buy is also oxidized, hopefully only by some aging, which is essential (for common use, that is), but in many cases by chemicals, as in bleached flour, which is not only whiter, but also form stronger dough and softer bread.
This said, I find that the amount of air incorporated by home mixers in neglectable. Over aeration is mostly a problem in commercial scale production.