Sourdough Panettone 2012 - Iginio Massari's Recipe
Sending this to Yeastspotting.
Sourdough panettones have become holiday gift of choice from me to my friends, they are amazed by the look, the smell, the taste, and the labor/time that's involved, certinally leaves a long lasting impression ... until they ask for it again next Christmas! This year I was inspired by mwilson's post here: http://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/30801/perfect-panettone. Many thanks!
This recipe is originally from Iginio Massari, which is very close to the one I made last year (here) in terms of butter/yolk/sugar ratio. However, there's a main differece in procedure: Francesco Elmi's formula last year has a lot more butter/yolk in the first dough, while Iginio Massari's version has most of butter/yolk in the second dough. This small change does lead to quite a bit of difference in fermentation timing and final taste. Francesco Elmi's formula require a longer rise time for first dough (since it's richer, 14 hours for me), but the 2nd dough only took 5-6 hours; Iginio Massari's first dough took less time (it's leaner, 11 hours for me) and is easier to knead, however both rising and kneading for the 2nd dough took longer (8 hours for me). There's also a subtle difference in terms of flavor profile. If I remember correctly, last years's version is a tiny bit more tangy than this years. Both are decliciou and light, just ... slightly different.
For each batch I can only make two loaves since that's how many my ad hoc proof box would fit. In fact I have so far made 3 batches, expecting to make at least one more -- that leaves 68 leftover egg whites! Just like last year post holiday days, a lot of angle food cakes are coming my way.
One thing make sourdough panettone great holiday gift is how long it keeps. I am mailing a couple to other cities (one is even on the way to Canada!), even after 5 days on the road, they would still be moist and fresh.
Light as air ... which leads to a question my friends always ask me: is it a cake or bread?
I'm honored to have inspired you. Likewise you have inspired me too, many a time over the years...
I love Massari's formula. At what temperature did you keep the first and second doughs?
Technically it's bread. To the consumer it's a cake.
First dough was kept around 26C, 2nd dough was kept around 29C, does it sound about right?
From the book: First dough is @ 24-26C. Once the second dough has been mixed, divided and scaled, the pieces are rounded and left for 30-40mins @ 28C before being rounded again, moulded and finally proved at 32C.
32C huh? No wonder my final proof took slightly longer than the 6-7 hours in the formula, my temp was a tad too low. Thanks for the info!
Superb in every way. Your Holiday Friends are so lucky to know a real Empress - who is generous !!
Nice baking as usual - this time for the Holidays.
Thanks! I see that you are turning up a lot of great holiday baking too!
I was wondering how the ones you baked last year compared to the formula Michael used. Interesting in that is was how the different doughs fermented - the times. It always amazes me how people come up with their techniques for these heavily enriched doughs. These look great and your friends are indeed lucky to be recipients of your baking - especially this time of year :-)
I have been baking a lot of holiday loaves using a lot of eggs too. Luckily I have a friend who has chickens and more eggs than their family can eat and I have 2 dogs. They are happy to consume cooked egg whites for me. I have no doubt that you will come up with wondrous ways to use up your excess :-)
Thanks for the post and photos,
What a great idea! My dog would love cooked egg whites too, thanks!
Oh, man... I'm envious of your friends. I'd be so thrilled to get even a thin slice of that soft, buttery loaf.
Get started baking, this one is worth spending effort/time to make.
Thanks! Have a great holiday yourself!
Oooooo, that looks wonderful! Can't wait to tackle this bread this week :)