As promised, a delayed side-by-side assessment.
So on Monday I baked a Chleb Sandomierski
And today I baked a NY-style deli rye.
Verdict: The Sandomierski may well be one of the old-world precursors to the contemporary deli rye, but, in comparison to deli rye, I would call it an austere bread. It's dense and the flavor is complexly and tastefully acidic. For some reason -- slightly lower hydration? all the prefermented flour being light rye with whole rye added to the final mix? the acids built up by the 3-stage levain at different hydrations? stepped down temperature for the 2nd part of the bake? -- it simply does not get a caramelized crust.
I baked the deli rye -- 45% whole rye flour/55% bread flour with all the rye flour prefermented -- at 232C/450F for 20 minutes covered/20 minutes uncovered/4 minutes out of the dutch oven altogether. The crust was almost fully caramelized when I pulled the top off the DO after the first 20 minutes. The finished bread bursts with sweetness and has a lively rye flavor and springy, juicy crumb.
Both are delicious. But the deli rye is simply more fun to eat.
Rob
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We have a winner! Interesting to see them together, thanks for the comparison Rob.
And it makes me feel better about making lots of deli-rye / mischbrot. I kind of have had a value judgement about them not being 'rye enough'.
-Jon
I hear you, Jon. I always have to remind myself that 45% is not rino -- rye in name only. At times I have smuggled whole wheat or whole spelt into the mix -- pushing the whole grain component beyond 50% -- and have found the bread is still great.
Rob, I’m probably not the best judge of rye breads, but I’m sure I’d prefer the deli rye. 30% or so of whole rye seems to be the max that I enjoy rye at so I definitely give that one a thumbs up. Now saying that, both look expertly baked.
Benny
Thanks, Benny! I know you're not a rye maven, and I can't rival the precision & beauty of your bakes, but for me this is the ur-loaf, the OG, the place it all began. I'd put this humble little deli rye boule up against any other. R