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Submitted by dolfs on March 7, 2008 - 7:09pm Multigrain Oatmeal Sandwich BreadIn seeking a tasty and healthy bread for my 6 year old son's lunch box I've been looking to create a sandwich loaf that is in large part whole wheat flour and other grains, yet has a somewhat soft crust (you know children: they don't appreciate the best part of good bread), and fine and soft texture. It should hold up well for PB&J as well as cheese, turkey etc.
Today was baking day for me and I made up a new recipe. It started with a variation on Peter Reinhart's Struan from his "Whole Grain Breads," but ended up with substantial modifications. What remains is the "epoxy" method which has always worked well for me since I learned about it. As you can see from the picture most (if not all) of my goals were reached. The whole loaf is airy, and the crust is mild in flavor and "crustiness." The color is lighter than you might expect because a substantial portion of the whole wheat flour used was white whole wheat flour. This is another one of those "fool the kids" tricks. If the bread doesn't look too brown it tastes better! (The white whole wheat does have a milder taste too). The overall composition of the bread (not counting the oats on the outside) is 37% bread flour (I used Giusto's Ultimate Performer, organic unbleached), 35% white whole wheat flour (I used King Arthur), and 13% whole wheat flour (Giusto's), 14% rolled oats, 3.4% wheat germ (yes, that's a little over 100%, I rounded the amounts for this summary). Salt comes in at 1.85% overall, and hydration is at 75.6%. The bread flour comes in handy to provide enough gluten for a good rise (needed for good air and fluffy bread) and also helps create a milder (less WW) taste. I am not saying you need this much for the gluten reason, it is just what I ended up with and I am happy with bread that is only 1/3 refined flour. You can experiment with less if you want. The end result was exactly what I was looking for. Within this goal, it was certainly my best ever. I know that some of you frown upon this kind of bread because it is not 100% whole wheat, it is too much like Wonderbread (not really, except texture may be somewhat), etc. I make plenty of "real" bread, but this outcome was the goal. Others have looked for this in the past (although mostly in a "white" bread), so I thought it worth sharing. Here is the recipe (from my Dough Calculator Spreadsheet):
The recipe, as given here, makes 3% extra of the soaker and the biga to compensate for what might stick to your container and utensils and doesn't (easily) make it into the dough. I bake by weight (highly recommended), but approximate volumes are given for almost all ingredients. The wheat germ, if I remember correctly, was about 5 tablespoons. Not mentioned in the formula, but I also used about 1/16 of a teaspoon of ascorbic acid powder (vitamin C) as a dough enhancer. It promotes dough strength and allows for a "lighter" product. It gets destroyed during baking, so no health benefits! Also note, for those of you that like to judge a formula by looking at the percentages, that soaker and biga are huge percentages in the final dough. This is normal for doughs made with the "epoxy" method as virtually all flour is part of biga, starter or soaker. In fact, if there was no flour whatsoever in the final step, you wouldn't be able to use percentages, because 0 flour would result in infinite percentages for the other components. The dough calculator has a convenient "Analysis" worksheet that collects all ingredients into an "Overall dough", which is how I got the percentages mentioned above. Directions:
--dolf
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Lovely
Dolfs,
Those look fantastic! I've been thinking that I need to give loaf breads another go, and this looks like a great place to start. As soon as the flu goes away and I'm not afraid of making the rest of the family sick with my cooking (well, anymore than I usually do), I'll give it a try.
Thanks for the easy to use formula chart!
edh
just beautiful....
Dolf,
That's a beautiful sandwich loaf. I don't see how you could improve on the appearance. The photo is crystal clear with vivid colors, and the detailed write-up is so useful for anyone who wants to try to make it in their own kitchen.
Bill
Beautiful Dolf.
Beautiful Dolf. And outstanding write up.
Looks awesome..
This looks like just what I have been trying to find for my husbands lunches. He takes PB&J..every day for lunch. The wheat breads I've made are just too dry and dense. They are good toasted, but not PB&J material. Do you get the ascorbic acid powder at a health food store? Would you approximate 1/16 of a tsp as a pinch? I've looked for for a set of measuring spoons with an 1/8 tsp measure, without success. Can't wait to try this one!
Ascorbic acid powder
Dolf, have you ever tried
Dolf, have you ever tried this with sourdough? Wouldn't it help to preserve freshness?
Syb
Hi Dolfs, Gorgeous bread.
Hi Dolfs,
Gorgeous bread. With the speed of a roadrunner I rushed to my kitchen and mixed the ingredients after I saw the picture. Um, I have young teenagers in the house who still crave for the fluffy breads.
As I write, the soaker and biga are in place to be mixed tonight. About the ascorbic acid, what happens if I omit that from the recipe? Will the bread not be fluffy? Or, can I use my vitamin C tablet ground up? I am too late to buy ascorbic acid from KA website. When I saw your picture, I drop everything and quickly assembled the soaker and biga without reading too carefully about ascorbic acid. Oops..:-(
Thanks!
Erina
Probably fine without the acid
Bread pans?
Hi Dolfs,
I'm finally getting around to trying this yummy looking bread (this time it's me craving soft bread). I don't have ascorbic acid either, but just threw caution to the winds and decided to do without; the only vitamin C I have in the house is tangerine flavoured, so thinking that wouldn't be such a good addition...
For tomorrow, however; did you bake in 9x5 pans or 8x4? I don't bake a whole lot of bread in pans, so I have trouble estimating how much dough goes in what size, though I have both.
Thanks again for this recipe; I don't expect mine to poof up as beautifully as yours, but I'm looking forward to trying!
edh
I've baked both pan sizes!
so far so good, sort of
Ok, so I'm throwing more than caution to the winds; more like throwing concentration out the window, too. I just mixed up the final dough, set it to rise, left the kitchen, then noticed the coconut oil (I was going to sub it for the butter) I'd left on the woodstove to melt. Oh well, so no ascorbic acid or oil. Getting leaner all the time...
I suppose it will just be a little less tender. Which is of course what was so appealing about the recipe. Oops, just going to have to try it again :-).
Thanks for the description of dough weights to pan sizes; I'm writing that down and putting it on the inside cover of my kitchen notebook. I've never been able to get a handle on that, and you laid it out very clearly. Are you a teacher in real life? You give excellent instructions!
Thanks,
edh
Been there, done that
Dolf, Whoa! I checked your
Dolf, Whoa! I checked your link My Bread Adventures in picture, those breads look sooo wonderful. I drooled over Cinnamon Raisin Junior pictures. You really are an excellent baker. Have you ever posted the recipe for Cinnamon Raisin bread? I would love to have your recipe for that.
BTW, I just crushed my vit C to replace as. acid. The bread was wonderful.
Thanks,
Erina
Straight from the Joy of Cooking
It's delicious!
I'm eating one last piece before calling it a day; this is a lovely sandwich bread, Dolfs. Both I and my PB&J addiction thank you!
I didn't get a great oven spring, so the loaves are smallish, but they're not dense at all. Light, squishy, a little sweet. Just the thing for toast, too.
Do you use a mixer or do this by hand? I ask because I'm working by hand, and sometimes have trouble getting sufficient gluten developement with enriched doughs. Lean doughs don't seem to be a problem, so it's probably just that I'm not kneading enough. I've gotten spoiled by being able to do a French Fold or two, then a bunch of stretch and folds and call it good.
Now I'll have to try it with the oil and ascorbic acid...
Thanks again!
edh
Gluten development
Food for thought...
Sorry, couldn't help myself...
I hadn't realized that, about the oil hindering gluten developement, very interesting. Of course, as you noted, I forgot the oil, so can't use that as an excuse! I did use honey, but honestly, I don't think the ingredients are my problem, I think it's me.
Where whole grains are concerned (and white flour,too for that matter) I'm a dedicated convert to the longer is better school of thought. My whole grain loaves may not have oven spring that touches the sky, but they're a far cry from my old door stops! I'm just starting to experiment with oats in bread (yours was the second effort), and I'm really liking the taste and texture, but wondering if they require a little more attention in the gluten development area? In other words, having no gluten themselves, do they tend to weigh the dough down more?
Thanks for all your help; this is clearly a bread worth getting right!
edh
Oats don't make it much more difficult I think
scale
Hi dolf,
Sems like you have some great scales. I'm just now in the market for some. Can you tell me about yours: brand, cost, capacity, and all it's capabilities? Thanks.
Syb
Actually, on further exam, I see it's not your scale that printed out all that info. It's your self made program. Duh!!!! Sorry, dolf.
Ascorbic acid
Hello!
This bread looks gorgeous! I found your recipe yesterday night and went straight to the grocery store to get the right flour. I couldn't find ascorbic acid powder so I got 2 lemons just in case. I'm trying to find any way to substitute lemon juice for ascorbic acid powder, do you have any ideas? It looks like you know what you are doing:)
Also, when do I add ascorb.acid powder to the dough? Does it go in soaker or biga? or in the final dough?
Thank you!
WelO
Ascorbic acid powder goes in the final dough
Hi Dolf, I have been making
Hi Dolf,
I have been making this bread several times since the first time I saw your recipe and gorgeous picture. My dough, after bulk fermentation, is as light as air, silky and smooth. But I have some troubles with my pans: the dough is not enough for two pans; I ended up making one 9X5 and then using the rest for 7X4 pan. If I insisted on halving the dough for two 9X5 pans, the result would be tender yummy loaves but without oven spring (overproofing?).
Has this ever happened to you?
What is the rule of multiplying the recipe by 1.5? Sorry, I am not an experience baker, so I do not know how to do this.
Thanks!
Dough amount for pan size
Finally ready to give this a go..
I have my ascorbic acid, 1000 mg capsules..I don't even have to grind a tablet up. You said originally you used 400 mg which was abit high, How much do you suggest? I'm mathematically challenged as you can tell! I've downloaded your spreadsheet calculator. I want to make 3.9 lb total weight. Your description sounds like it will auto populate the rest of the weights. I hope this doesn't sound too stupid, but the only thing I can figure out is that I have fill out the whole form all over again with 3.9 as the total weight, right? Or is there a way to copy and paste the info into the spreadsheet and then change the total weight? Thanks!
A. acid, and calculator...
I have reproduced my current version of the formula below so you can copy and paste it into the calculator's "Recipe" worksheet. Once you do that, all you have to do is type in the desired dough weight. Example might be 1.5 for a standard loaf pan, or 3 for two loaves etc. The calculator will figure weights of individual ingredients. You may not get volume measurements for all ingredients, as I have updated the spreadsheet's database since I released it as well, and you won't have that. But, you're weighing everything anyway right?
The formula also shows the amount of a. acid I use these days. I think people have made too much out of this though, and I am sure you could make this loaf without it, but it does help the rise.
Thanks..
for the current version. I was all set to plug everything in and found that because of our heightened security level on our computers "something about the macros" doesn't work. I'll have to have my husband adjust whatever so I can use your calculator. In the meantime, I decided to try one 9x5 loaf. I halved the weights and multiplied by 1.3. Soaker and biga are mixed..looking forward to the bake tomorrow.
Clear Explanation
Ah, not only an excellent baker, you are really good in explaining things.
I get it now. With 1 quantity of dough, I was using a 9X5 pan then a European pan of 7X4. Next time I will increase the dough by 1.3 to get two loaves of 9X5.
Last time I used yogurt (leftover) to make the bread. It was yummy with tighter moist crumb.
I have been advertising your bread recipe to my friends who really like the bread when they taste mine.
Thanks!
wow--YUM
Dolf,
Just wanted to let you know that I tried your recipe - I even went out and got a scale! I have never tried the epoxy method before and was a little nervous, but it wasn't as complicated as I thought it'd be. I did everything as exact as I could and it turned out great! I've been looking for a lighter, non-hockey puck wheat bread and really was having trouble. I was about to go back to buying bread! Thank you soooo much. Really good flavor AND texture - that is rare. Only thing I wondered about though was that one loaf rose slightly higher than the other. I weighed them before they proofed and they were about the same #. Do you think because one pan was lighter (colored) than the other? Doesn't matter - they both looked great and tasted great - thanks again!
This happens occasionally
Measuring spoons
Firstly, I must say I love the look of this bread. Must really get down to breadmaking again.
Secondly, I managed to purchase the spoons you mentioned the ones with a pinch etc., on the Prepared Pantry website. Hope this helps.
Lookin good!
After all the conversions were done for the 9x5 pan, the loaf came out a looker. I used a Vitamin C capsule, 1000 mg ascorbic acid that also had 65 mg Rose Hips (a natural source of Vit C), unscrewed it and tapped a smidgen out, recapped the capsule for another loaf.
I used my KA to knead and it took about 20 minutes to achieve windowpane. Most of the time was on speed 2, but I did rev it up to 4 for a bit. For sourdough, the time is about 8 minutes on speed 2, so that gives you an idea of the extra kneading time with whole wheat.
The only other thing I changed was that I used wheat bran, instead of wheat germ. I mistakenly thought I had wheat germ...wrong! Too lazy to run to the store.
Haven't sliced it yet..will let you know the final verdict from my PB &J expert..
Thank you
Post a picture
Pic of your Multigrain Oatmeal Bread...
Along with a couple Thom Leonard's French Country boules and Mike's Sourdough English muffin bread. I forgot to add Mike's Sourdough Wholewheat muffins with raspberries to the pic. I should have gotten a tighter shot..sorry. It's a great semi-wholewheat sandwich bread for those PB&J lovers that just have to have the softer crumb. I used Bob's Red Mill Whole wheat (because that's what I have) but I'm not crazy about the taste. It's OK. I used KA White whole wheat and next time I'll try their whole wheat. Thanks Dolf for all your help..
Betty
Its not my bread: its yours!
Flavor...
Sorry, I wasn't referring to the recipe's flavor, but the brand of flour. I store it in the freezer, so it shouldn't be rancid. I thought it had a slightly bitter aftertaste last night. This morning I had a slice toasted and I thought it tasted great. Maybe it was my palate after having a glass of wine. I just asked the PB &J expert and he proclaimed the bread as great! So, we have a winner. Thanks again.
Wetness...
hello there -
well, this bread looks like it could be the answer to our family's wishes for a softer wheat bread that the kids will like. i'm really hopeful and have my first batch completing its bulk ferment even as i write this.
but i have a question about how wet it should be, and you'll need to excuse my ignorance since i'm pretty new to baking. using the exact measurements from the recipe, the dough seemed quite wet. i added about 1-2 tbsp of bread flour in the final kneading, which helped a tad but it was still pretty wet.
so i have a few questions:
1. most generally, how wet should the dough be?
2. i've seen a few recipes mention that the dough should be tacky but not sticky. i'm not sure i quite get that, so any other ideas on the distinction or how to gauge this?
3. most recipes suggest kneading by hand or using a stand mixer. and in the context of the stand mixer, the recipes will sometimes say that it should be dry enough to "clear the bowl." is that a good way to measure the correct wetness?
4. the king arthur folks seem to swear by a (zojirushi) bread machine for kneading instead of a stand mixer. any thoughts on the relative merits of the two approaches? and does the "clear the bowl" test still apply in the context of a bread machine?
5. when's a good time to check for whether the dough is too wet or not? in other words, after how much kneading (let's say in a stand mixer)? and after that time if it seems too wet, how much longer after adding some more flour should i knead/mix before checking again to see if it's the right amount? in other words, how long does it take for the flour to get fully absorbed or whatever.
thanks!
Wetness answers
Hope this helps.
Variations on a theme
ALAS!
I have finally found a yummy sandwich loaf - which I have been successful with. This is such a light and delicious bread. I am just wondering if you have tried it with a little less instant yeast. Maybe I am sensitive to the yeast presence because I bake so much with homemade starters.
I baked this a few hours ago - just tried a PB&J sandwich - pretended I was 7 years old, and was in pure heaven. My kids are going to be so happy. Thank you for your wonderful recipe and photos.
Sorry for the late reply
I had cleared out my thread subscriptions and did not see this until now. The answer is yes, I have done it with less yeast. The original amount was/is fairly high because the flavor development has already happened overnight so all I care about is getting the bread oven ready quickly.
Myself, I am not particularly sensitive to the yeast taste, but feel free to use less (but expect a slightly longer proof). You can partially offset this by putting a little more yeast in the biga (but not the same amount as you take away from the final step!).
Exactly what I was looking for
It almost killed me to let these loaves cool before slicing them, but I did it! This is a great recipe, exactly what I was looking for - something that my young kids and hubby will love.
I did have to make a few small changes. Firstly, I did not have any bread flour on hand, so I subbed unbleached white flour and added 1 Tbsp of vital gluten to each of the steps. Second, I did not have white whole wheat, so for the biga I used an extra three ounces each of unbleached white flour and whole wheat. Thirdly, I subbed in bran for the wheat germ. They turned out beautifully.
Thanks for posting this great recipe, and by the way, your pics make we want to bake all day long.