The Fresh Loaf

News & Information for Amateur Bakers and Artisan Bread Enthusiasts

Best way to sub out high fat cream cheese

clazar123's picture
clazar123

Best way to sub out high fat cream cheese

This is MiniOven's recipe for a baking powder stolen that I want to make BUT I am trying to make it non-dairy. As you can see, it has both high fat cream cheese AND shortening in it.

So exactly what role does the cream cheese play?

Should I just eliminate the cream cheese and increase the shortening or add butter (allowed in the dairy restriction I am working with). Do I  add an equal amount  (250g) of another fat such as lard or coconut oil? 450g of fat seems a bit much for 500 g flour!

Or do I add 50g more fat (20%fat cream cheese x 250g=50g fat).That sounds more reasonable but what other characteristics does the other 80% of the cream cheese add? It should brown as the dough has sugar in it. It should be plenty tender between the shortening and eggs.

I will attempt this (time permitting) this week but I want to approach it with some foresight.

Comments?

**********************************************************************************************************

BAKING POWDER STOLLEN from MiniOven 

Stollen (Baking Powder)

  • 500g fine ground flour
  • 4 teaspoons baking powder
  • 200g sugar 

Combine together on a board or clean counter top. Make a dent in middle and add:

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (1 pkg vanilla sugar)
  • 2 eggs
  • 250g cream cheese 20% fat, no salt
  • 200g Mixed shortenings cut into small pieces: 50g each butter, margarine, coconut, lard (or however) and scatter around on the flour.

Starting in the wet middle work with the fingers to mix, slowly adding the dry to form a dough. Knead but do not overwork. 

Chop fine and fold into dough:

  • 125g almonds
  • 250g raisins
  • 100g Aranzini or candied orange peel
  • 100g Zitronat or candied lemon peel

Shape into 3 or 4 small oval loaves and place on parcement paper in a baking sheet. Push any exposed fruit pieces back inside loaf. 

Bake (middle rack) 200°c (390°F) first 15 minutes turning down to 180°c (350°F) for 30 - 45 minutes. Remove when golden brown or toothpick comes clean and 

Brush hot loaves with plenty of butter allowing it to soak in. Dust with heavy blanket of powdered sugar. Allow to cool. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap.

  • Butter
  • powdered sugar 
  • one last ingredient: Rum, unknown quantity, used if dough seems too dry or drizzle over baked loaf before butter or offered in tea served with stollen. 

*******************************************************************************************************************************

 

clazar123's picture
clazar123

As far as I can determine, besides the fat, cream cheese seems to contribute a moistness and denseness to a cake crumb. There is actually very little info out there on what cream cheese contributes to a baked product. Perhaps some of the folks that bought "Modernist" could peruse that tome for any info.

If high fat cream cheese contributes moisture and density to a baked product, then I am going to create those characteristics using 2 ingredients-extra fat either butter or lard (the 50g the cream cheese would have contributed ) and mashed potato(an authentic ingredient for the source of the recipe). I had considered applesauce, tofu, beans, bananas, squash, avocado, sweet potato and settled on simple white potato. Every German household had that available.

Any additional thoughts or do I have a good handle on this?

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

is also used to soak the raisins.  Raisins get washed, sorted on a paper towel to pick out any stems and then into a jar with some good splashes of (Cherry) Rum.  Raisins then soak until used (one day to several weeks) and the jar is replenished often this time of year -- sort of like keeping a firm starter of drunk raisins.  I only have rum flavouring so I'm adding it with the eggs.  The raisins I have look very moist and half of them are cranberry "craisins."  

The kneading and working of the dough seems rather dry at first but keep with it, slowly folding it onto itself.  I would define it as almost crumbly for most of the hand mixing process.  Just relax and put on some slow music and your hand warmth and the fats should bring the dough nicely together.  They don't rise much so you can crowd them a little onto one home-oven-sized baking sheet.   One or two or three or four depending on how you want to split them up for gifts or serving.

You can also dust the buttered hot loaves with caster sugar and then with powdered sugar after the castor layer has set.  A little powdered sugar is sometimes dusted over the stollen just before it is served if it looks a little "want for wear."

I'm going to try instant mashed potatoes moistened with hot water.   On second thought, a bit of potato starch may be needed. If fresh boiled potato, boil with peels, remove peel and run the hot potato thru a "ricer" (looks like a giant sized garlic press) or grate fine.  Warm potatoes tend to blend easier into doughs.  The starch gel isn't set yet. If boiled with their skins, they tend to be stickier and I think the melted cream cheese adds this goo to the dough.  

Mini

clazar123's picture
clazar123

This dough was very easy to make but it felt almost more like a cookie dough than a soda bread. I had to leave the ingredients for a while, unexpectedly, so when I came back to them they were all room temp. I decided to proceed anyways and that may have affected the texture. The fats were all soft. I expected more biscuit-like feel. I shaped them into 3 loaves that were about 3/4 inch tall. I took a picture but with all the powdered sugar there is not much to see. It did remind me of biscotti so my backup plan is to slice them and bake again if I don't like the texture as stollen!

So here is my work sheet in progress:

BAKING POWDER STOLLEN

 

Stollen (Baking Powder)

390F for 15 minutes then 350F for 25-35 minutes.

2-4 loaves

 

Mix dry ingredients together:

Flour

500g

3   ½ cup + 2 tbsp

 

Baking   Powder

17g

4   tsp

 

Sugar

200g

1   cup

 

Salt

6g

1   tsp

 

Cardamom

2g

1   tsp

 

 

Combine together on a board or clean counter top. Make a dent in middle and add the following ingredients:

  • ·        250g cream cheese 20% fat, no salt

Starting in the wet middle work with the fingers to mix, slowly adding the dry to form a dough. Knead but do not overwork.

 

 

 

 

eggs

 

2   large

 

Potato-cooked/mashed

180g

¾   cup

 

Mixed   shortening/butter/lard

250g   225g

 

Even   reduced seems like too much

Butter

112g

½   cup

 

Coconut oil/Lard

64g

2tbsp?

At   this point I just scooped a bit from each jar

Vegetable shortening

48g

1tbsp?

 

Vanilla   extract

 

1   tsp

 

 

Chop fine and fold into dough:

Shape into 3 or 4 small oval loaves and place on parchment paper in a baking sheet. Push any exposed fruit pieces back inside loaf.

Almonds-chopped

125g

 

 

Golden   raisins

250g   130g

 

Reduced-seemed   too much

Candied   orange peel

100g 75g

 

 

Candied   lemon peel

100g 50g

 

 

 Bake (middle rack) 200°c (390°F) first 15 minutes turning down to 180°c (350°F) for 30 - 45 minutes. Remove when golden brown or toothpick comes clean. 

Brush hot loaves with plenty of butter allowing it to soak in. Dust with heavy blanket of powdered sugar. Allow to cool. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. 

  • one last ingredient: Rum, unknown quantitiy, used if dough seems too dry or drizzle over baked loaf before butter or offered in tea served with stollen. 

I will post about the texture when I cut one of them in a few days.

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

more like a cookie dough! Your description is right on including the Biscotti remarks. The only thing I didn't mention was the shaping but it doesn't matter really. MIL shapes loaves like you do. I make a large thick flat "cookie" (I made 3 at 600g each) and then fold over one third (or about) onto itself to form a mountain ridge. (snow covered mountain with ridge)

Cut thick, about 3/4 to 1" or so... :) Be sure to wrap up tightly when cool.

I also had some fun with the butter. Mine was pretty hard room temp so when the sun shone onto the table, the bowl found its spot. Just the flour mixture and dotted butter all around the edges. I cam back from a quick errand and all the butter was a bit too soft so I put it in the shadows and did another errand. Then came back and mixed it up. I did have some orange juice on "stand by" should the dough be too dry but it wasn't.

I mixed everything up in a super large SS bowl and in the end. scraped the sides down and did a light dusting of the bowl to take the little bit of stickiness off the surface of the dough. That made shaping even easier. Set the dough on the scale at 1808g.

Now to bake them... Gosh, the dough "dufted" so wonderfully, I wanted to crawl into it. I had only butter for fats. Oh Boy!

clazar123's picture
clazar123

Love the "selfie"!

That is exactly what my dough looked like!  Will the texture be like a biscotti dough when I cut it? If my fats were colder, should it have come together more like scone/biscuit dough?

My husband has been asking about cutting into it already-the kitchen did smell divine! Is there a time to wait where it is at its best? Like rye bread? 2-3 days?

Actually, this is very similar to my biscotti base recipe-except for the higher amount of fat in the "Stollen".

Biscotti-Basic

INGREDIENT

VOLUME

GRAMS

Yield:   6 doz small biscotti

Flavor extract

 

1 tbsp

11g     (Vanilla goes in all sweet variations in addition to chosen flavor)

-Anise is traditional

 

Oil

½ cup

88g?

Reduce to make harder

Sugar

(white or brown)

1 cup

½ c white= 95g,  1 c white=195g

½ c   brown=114g, 1 c brown=225g

Can be ½ white & ½ brown

Increase to 1 ¼ c for chocolate

Reduce for savory

Whole Eggs

3 large

150g-160g

Using only egg whites makes them   crisper

Mix eggs, sugar, oil, vanilla and extract of choice.

In separate, larger bowl, mix together:

Flour-AP

3 ¼ cup

460g

 

Baking Powder

1 tbsp

11 g

FRESH!

Salt

1 tsp

7 g

Increase for savory

See   variations …………

(next   page)

 

 

 

Then mix wet ingredients into dry ingredients.

When well mixed, let dough sit for 10 minutes (improves handling).

  • Prepare a baking sheet with parchment paper-oil the parchment paper!
  • Handle with either oiled or damp hands/spatula.
  • Shape into a log in traditional shape (like a Quonset hut) of desired size.(2”x12”for small biscotti)-dough may spread slightly
  • Top with nuts or sugar
  • Bake 20-25 min in 350 oven. Gingerbread browns quicker than others.
  • Cool to lukewarm
  • Cut into ½ in slices (sharp serrated knife works best)-place on cooling rack on cookie sheet. Spritz with water lightly so edge doesn’t crumble-light touch on knife.
  • Bake additional 6-10 min til dry and lightly browned-may need to turn over to do both sides.

Notes:

Butter makes them more cookie-like and crumbly.

No oil makes them rather hard-these are better for dunking

Because they are drier than cookies, they need higher amount of flavoring.

If they are being dunked, regular amounts of flavoring are recommended.

Flavor variations using basic dough

GINGERBREAD (excellent)

Add to basic recipe,(use 1/2   brown/white sugar):

2 tbsp molasses

2 tbsp honey

2 tsp powdered ginger

2 tsp cinnamon

½ tsp nutmeg

¼ tsp cloves

¼ c small diced crystallized ginger   (40g)

¾ c small diced candied pineapple   (125g)

Sticky dough-spreads more than basic   recipe

Browns easily! Top with sugar. Very   spicy.

SPICE

½ tsp (1g)each to the basic recipe(mild):

1 tsp (2 g) each for spicier level:

Cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander and ¼ tsp cloves

Vanilla extract

Top with cinnamon spice sugar

Nice handling dough

Makes 3- 12”x2 in logs

Bake 25 min-cool 10 min-slice(sharp   serrated)-rebake 10 minutes

 

CHOCOLATE  ESPRESSO

Add to basic recipe: Use ½ white/½ brown   sugar- May need to increase sugar slightly.

Add 3 packets of instant coffee (packet   that makes 1 serving of coffee) to eggs to dissolve 

Add    2,  1 ounce packets of   pre-melted baking chocolate to oil.

¾ cup miniature semisweet chocolate   chips-add to dough

Nuts go nicely with this-not a deep   fudge color!Color of dark choc chip cookies.

ALMOND

To basic recipe:

1 tbsp each vanilla and almond extract

Use ½ white and ½ brown sugar option

Add 1 cup chopped almonds to dough

Top with sliced almonds

LEMON FENNEL

To basic dough: use white sugar

1 tsp lemon extract

1 tbsp(??) crushed fennel seed

CRANBERRY PISTACHIO

To basic dough: use white sugar

1 c craisins

1 tsp orange extract-orange zest if   available

1 c shelled whole pistachio nuts

White chocolate chips optional

Other flavor suggestions:

Sesame-add some sesame oil and sesame seeds

Garam masala and coriander as a chai flavor

Pannetone flavor-add flower essence and orange (peels,zest,candied)

Parmesan Pepper as a savory

Cappucino with strong coffee(6 ?packets instant),cinnamon, cloves, choc chips and hazelnuts

Poppy seed or lemon poppy seed

Anise-traditional

Pink peppercorn-pistachio or pepita

Pepper-fennel

Triple Ginger (powdered ginger,fresh ginger and crystallized ginger (no other spices)(use gingerbread base)

 Happy Holidays!

 

Mini Oven's picture
Mini Oven

(it was the elves!)    

And it is a bit crumbly but tasty for sure!  Mine baked a little bit too long and the bottoms browned more than the tops.  

Careful not to over-brown!  better to lower the temp if the toothpick comes out wet.  I turned on more bottom heat and that was my mistake.  

Anyway, went after a bigger piece and cut both times with the  sharp meat cleaver. Almost an inch thick.  Not overpowering with the flavours yet but not boring either.   Cut off and end and make your own judgement.  Good with coffee too!  

clazar123's picture
clazar123

Almost forgot! These are the last 3 pieces of 1 of the stollens (I made 3). The other 2 are wrapped and I am going to bring them out over the next few months to see how they age.

I will keep this recipe (with the "in development" modifications) and make it again. It is definitely NOT bread-like but more cakey-cookie like in texture or even like a 1 time baked biscotti-but still quite delicious and pleasing. What you cannot tell from a picture is that these are quite crumbly. They are easier eaten with fingers than a fork.

SO here is my corrected development sheet:

BAKING POWDER STOLLEN

Based on MiniOven’s recipe-The Fresh Loaf

Stollen (Baking Powder)

390F for 15 minutes then 350F for 25-35 minutes.

2-4 loaves (4 loaves are gift sized)

 

Mix dry ingredients together:

Flour

500g

3   ½ cup + 2 tbsp

 

Baking   Powder

17g

4   tsp

 

Sugar

200g

1   cup

 

Salt

6g

1   tsp

 

Cardamom

2g

1   tsp

**Add more-or add coriander**

 

Combine together on a board or clean counter top. Make a dent in middle and add the following ingredients:

  • 250g cream cheese 20% fat, no salt Replace with potato for non-dairy

Starting in the wet middle work with the fingers to mix, slowly adding the dry to form a dough. Knead but do not overwork.

Becomes a soft,rich cookie dough consistency

eggs

 

2   large

 

Potato-cooked/mashed

180g

¾   cup

Cream cheese sub

Mixed   shortening/butter/lard

250g   225g

 

Reduced- very rich with 225. Poss.   reduce to 200g next time.

Butter

112g

½   cup

 

Coconut oil/Lard

64g  

2tbsp?

Final   rec.-skip next time

Vegetable shortening

48g 108g

1tbsp?

FINAL REC- Do butter and   shortening mix. Shortening for some height.

Vanilla   extract

 

1    2 tsp

Dry crumb- needs more flavorant

Almond extract

 

1-2 tsp

Add next time

 

Chop fine and fold into dough:

Shape into 3 or 4 small oval loaves and place on parchment paper in a baking sheet. Push any exposed fruit pieces back inside loaf.

Almonds-chopped

125g

 

 

Golden   raisins

250g   130g

 

This amount worked nicely

Candied   orange peel

100g 75g

 

**Soak fruit for 1 hr prior to   adding or it remains hard in baked product for a while.****

Candied   lemon peel

100g 50g

 

 

 

Bake (middle rack) 200°c (390°F) first 15 minutes turning down to 180°c (350°F) for 30 - 45 minutes. Remove when golden brown or toothpick comes clean and

 

Brush hot loaves with plenty of butter allowing it to soak in. Dust with heavy blanket of granulated sugar and then powdered sugar. Allow to cool. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap.

 

  • one last ingredient: Rum, unknown quantitiy, used if dough seems too dry or drizzle over baked loaf before butter or offered in tea served with stollen.