The Fresh Loaf

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Some Sweeter Takes on Sourdough

a_warming_trend's picture
a_warming_trend

Some Sweeter Takes on Sourdough

I recognized late last fall that my friends and family love receiving yeast breads on special occasions. 

This realization lead me to begin experimenting with fruit, nuts, chocolate, and sweeter-associated spices in my breads. I've tried a pretty expansive range of slightly sweet loaves, from molasses, to cinnamon-brown sugar, to a "sourdough take on fruitcake (with bourbon!)."

Here, I will just post my two favorite variations: Cherry-Walnut Levain and Dark Chocolate Levain. I have baked each of these loaves with a wide variety of levain percentages and fermentation processes. My constants have been flour amount and hydration percentage: 500 grams of flour, always; 80% hydration, always. Beyond that, the sky as been the limit: Different types of flour, anywhere from 50 to 300 grams of levain, autolyse between 2 and 8 hours, short fermentation and long proof, long fermentation and short proof, scoring patterns all over the map.  I will include here only my most recent formulas and processes for each!

Cherry-Walnut Levain

200g 100% hydration starter (however you want to create this levain!)

320g AP fl

80g WW fl

300 g water

11 g salt

20 g brown sugar

70 g dried cherries

70 g walnuts

Mix flour and water, and autolyse for 1 hour. Mix in rest of ingredients until combined. Stretch and fold every 30 minutes for 2 hours. Rest on counter for 2 hours. Place in the refrigerator for anywhere from 12 to 48 hours; I went to 48 last time, with lovely results. Shape into boule, and proof seam-side down for 1 1/2 hours. Bake at 460 with steam for 30 minutes, without for 18-20. 

*I really, really like baking loaves that are dense with nuts or fruit seam-side up; not worrying about slashing through small, dense objects is pretty gratifying. Also, longer bulk ferments involving walnuts lead to more of that beautifully lavender dough--always a good thing, from my perspective. 

Some recent Cherry-Walnut loaves:

On to the next...

Dark Chocolate Levain

50g 100% hydration starter

475 g AP fl

375 g water

11 g salt

140 g dark chocolate chunks 

20 g brown sugar

5 g apple cider vinegar

Mix flour and water, and autolyse for 1 hour. Mix in levain and the rest of the ingredients. Stretch and fold for 3 minutes. Stretch and fold at 20-minute intervals for 2 hours. Rest on the counter for 6 hours. Retard in the refrigerator for 4 hours. Shape into boule, and proof for 1 1/2 hours. 

This is probably my "most requested" loaf. I love giving it to friends for birthdays. Dark chocolate and sourdough...something just really, really works here. 

Some recent loaves:

Here's to more holiday and birthday sourdoughs in 2015!

--Hannah

Comments

nmygarden's picture
nmygarden

These are lovely, Hannah, and well worthy of gifting! Beware, however, of friends claiming to have more than one birthday each year!

Cathy

Janetcook's picture
Janetcook

Your loaves sound yummy.  Lucky friends who get them as gifts.  Any thoughts on all the different perambulations you have tried with these loaves you would like to share.  I imagine you get very different flavor profiles when using such a wide range of leaven.

I am curious why you add the vinegar to your loaf.  It is such a small amount I can't imagine that it leaves any flavor so I assume you use it to condition your dough???

Janet

chouette22's picture
chouette22

...as you have formulated the exact same two questions I was just about to ask the author of the post. Now I can just scroll down and read the answer - very convenient! :)

a_warming_trend's picture
a_warming_trend

Thanks for the kind workds, Cathy and Janet!

Janet, as to your questions:

1) You know, it's actually a bit hard for me to offer analysis here, because about 50% of the time I only hear about the flavors once friends have sliced into the loaves. Sometimes I'm with them when they slice, so I'm able to confiscate a hunk. (They often indulge my nerdiness by sending me pictures of the crumb.)

I can share a few observations though:

A) The less levain, the tangier the loaf (which makes sense, because it leads to a longer room-temperature fermentation). I prefer the tang with the dark chocolate loaf, and prefer the milder maltier effect with the Cherry-Walnut. 

B) I have achieved really good ovenspring with a wide range of levain percentages. One of my favorite ways to make both loaves is to retard during bulk fermentation (12-48 hours), then shape and proof at room temperature for just about 1 1/2 hours. I pop the banneton in the freezer for 5-7 minutes to chill the dough back down again to maximize spring when it hits the oven. 

C) The seam-down proof (seam-up bake) definitely "explodes" more dramatically if I've retarded during bulk rather than during proof. I've even tried heavily flouring the bannetons, but I basically save that method for the shorter room temperature proof. I could change my mind with further practice...

2) The apple cider vinegar is a little touch I try occasionally based some reading about fermentation, acid, and salt (primarily Emily Buehler's Bread Science). It's really just very experimental and likely kind of silly, but I'm a hopeless tinkerer. 

Janetcook's picture
Janetcook

Thank you for the details.  I will check out the vinegar thing today in Emily's book.  I don't remember what she said so a refresher is due and maybe it will be something I will tinker with too.  I know I have used it in breads I have baked simply because it was in the formula but no explanations as to what purpose it served.

Have fun tinkering.

Janet

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Friends and family are all very lucky to get one of these beauties.  Well done and happy baking

chouette22's picture
chouette22

... and just the push I needed to make some sweeter loaves again!

a_warming_trend's picture
a_warming_trend

Thank you, dabrownman!

And chouette22...let's replace cakes with sweet sourdoughs in 2015!

BumbleBee84's picture
BumbleBee84

Beautiful looking loaves,I'm sure they do taste divine too.Well done!

 

Grace