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Hobart C-100 Mixer - service manual? any rebuild experiences?

CarolineR's picture

Hobart C-100 Mixer - service manual? any rebuild experiences?

Hi all,

This is for the Hobart enthusiasts who read TFL.  Thanks, btw, for all the helpful posts.  It's been an education.  I have (for the second time) come close to destroying a N-50 by mixing too-large batches of bread dough; after reading the larger mixer search & recommendation posts, I ended up with a Hobart C-100, model 17664. I realized that I might never be able to obtain parts for it, since it's been out of production for over 20 years, but I was able to find one that was never used.  That should mean that all the parts are in good shape (except perhaps for some unseen rust).  The seller thought it had sat in a warehouse all its life - the warranty card and manual packet were still attached to it with wire.  I'm sure the grease has long since drained out of it, and am ready to take it apart and re-pack it. (And I've bought mixer-specific grease for that purpose.)

So I'm wondering if any of you Hobart fanatics out there who have this machine have ever (like breadman_NZ with his N50) taken yours apart and fixed it?  If so, would you share your experiences, warnings, etc?   And does anyone have a service manual for this beast?  I have scoured the web and not found one.  I did find all the user / parts manuals on Hobart's site, and have downloaded them; if this is all there is, I'm glad to have them.  But it would be so helpful to have a real service & repair manual, if anyone has one.



Caroline (in eastern MA)

Laurentius's picture

Hi Caroline,

If there is no grease stains, there no reason for your assumtion. You should clean it up and give it a try, before you start taking it apart! Sometimes people finds diamonds, and it sounds as if you have.


CarolineR's picture

Alas, the bowl lift was rusted solid, and was almost impossible to move.  The attachment shaft is also heavily rusted, so we've opted to do a teardown/rebuild.  Will post photos when that's done.

Jansanman52's picture

hu Caroline , I just came across this post. I know it’s old but was hoping you could help. I just picked up a c-100 and need to replace the gear ring. I removed the planetary and the 4 screws around the ring but it’s not coming off. Any advice. 



CarolineR's picture

Hi all,

We finally have time to tear down the C-100 which we bought last year.   The parts manual has great blow-ups of the planetary, etc., but no instructions on how to disassemble it.  We're hoping someone who else has done this would be willing to share some tips.

We have the motor housing off the base, and have removed the external parts of the planetary.  We've found several screws that were hidden by body putty and paint (one on the plate that holds the planetary in) and we can't get this plate to budge.  Here's what it looks like at this stage:

If anyone can tell us where to look next, we'd appreciate the help!



CarolineR's picture

I should have added that I'm documenting this teardown and rebuild, and will have lots of photos; when it's done, will post it to FreshLoaf (with thanks to those who have helped us along the way).



CarolineR's picture

We concluded that in order to get at the transmission, complete disassembly was about the only option.  (If we'd known this before we bought it, we'd have been looking for A-200's instead.)  I hope to have a photo how-to posted by May, after it's reassembled. Right now all of the "case" parts are out for powder coating.

DLightTexas has guidance on disassembly in his post, which we used to discover how to get our mixer apart.  Basically, you unscrew anything you find.  For each step, first, take a photo documenting where the screws were and what they connected; then label and bag the parts, taking parts off as they are removable. 

Then look for the painted bondo-d screws, remove the bondo and the screws, and again photograph, label, and bag everything, storing the screws etc with the parts they go to.  We used a LOT of gallon ziplocs. 

Eventually, we decided we had to take the head off the pedestal.  That's a time consuming process, but it makes a really awkward maneuver (removing the transmission) more manageable. If you leave the head on the pedestal, the transmission is going to drop on the floor when it comes out; you may end up injuring yourself when it does that.  Safer, we concluded, was to do the reverse of the manual incarnation of a drill press - letting the housing fall, but only an inch, and onto a padding of towels.

My husband did all this work in the kitchen (no garage, temps were zero at the time); we padded the counter top with old towels, and set concrete blocks on those about 18" apart.  He made a frame of 2x4's to sit on top of the blocks.  This 2x4 frame was drilled through, so that the holes lined up over holes in the base plate of the transmission (those were bondo'd btw). He screwed bolts through the 2x4s into those holes, and then used a shorter length of 2x4 as a mallet to bang the "head" on either side of the 2x4 frame (front and back) until the o-ring that holds that plate in place let go, and he was able to get the plate off the mixer. The housing gently dropped onto the towels; no injury, no damage.

There was still the shaft (sorry, I forget the correct name for it - it's on the parts diagram) that connects the motor to the transmission, holding most of the transmission parts in place.  We had to take the hub off to get that out.  Continue the process of "what can you take apart next?"  Eventually, you'll have it in tiny pieces (I think it took at least 10 hours). 

Be sure to document every step, because there's no guidebook (till I put ours together) on how to get it back together, which will be the exact reverse of getting it apart.  You end up with a million little parts and lots look the same, no clue where they belong unless you've carefully corralled them as they came off the mixer.  No way would I remember all of that over the course of 4 months - I'm using the dated/timestamped photos to tell me what came first, what next, and so on.

Hope that helps!  Look forward to reading about your adventures, and as I said, I'll probably have something to post by the end of May.

Here are links to some photos:

Caroline Rumsey

CarolineR's picture

IronRose, I feel for you.  Maybe while you have it open, you can take the time to inspect everything and fix anything that needs work.  The short answer to your question is "I think so."  Below are links to the sequence I described in my earlier post, about attaching bolts to the plate and then trying to get the plate to let go of the housing.

The "head" ready to work on:

Bolts test-fitted into the holes:

Preliminary marks on the 2x4 "sandwich"

Centering the marks on the 2x4s:

Scribing the centered marks:

Tool used to mark the centers:

Verifying that the marks line up with the bolts:

Drilling the 2x4s for the bolts:

Bolting the 2x4 sandwich to the "head":

Testing the fit of the 2x4 frame-he found some warp in the 2x4s

Pulling the 2x4s together, removing the warp in one of the boards:

Frame ready for concrete block lifts:

1st concrete block; note the protection for the countertop!  This is a sheet of thin plywood on top of 3-layer cardboard.  The cardboard allowed us to slide the whole assembly around on the countertop without scratching the counter; the plywood did the actual protection.  (OK, you're warned):

There's very little "drop" in this setup - that protects everything inside the head - and if the head were to fall suddenly, it will land on the folded wash cloths, almost invisible, below it:

The frame attached to the mixer head, hanging from the concrete blocks:

Using a short piece of 2x4 as a hammer.  He smacked down alternately in front of the frame and behind it.  It took a LOT of banging to get it to move:

Finally it starts to let go!

BetsyMePoocho's picture

WOW!! Hate to hear that you have had a problem with your N-50.  I've been using one since 1997 and have, what I thought , really put it through it's paces....  

You and your husband's C-100 disassembly shows good old "McGyver" get around!  I really hand it to you guys for the effort.

Heavens forbid that you ever have to do this job again,,,, BUT if you do, go to most any auto parts store or Sears and get a puller similar to what I have attached is just a plain vanilla puller and  it will save you lots of "loud remarks".

When you re-install the gear plate into the housing I'd suggest placing the plate in a ziploc bag in your freezer for a day, it will get "slightly" smaller.  Then will press back into the housing a "little" easier with a "few" less "taps" with the block of wood and hammer.  (If not get a much larger hammer, heh-heh.)

Also get the best gear grease you can find.  I use a water proof grease that has some molybdenum disulfide in it.  Or the following "Molly Grease" from AutoZone.


Your shaft bearings should be good.... they are sealed ball bearings on both sides.  But after cleaning them you can "feel" them for any roughness or excessive lateral play to be sure they are OK.

Hopefully all you will have to do is clean everything and pack the gears with "new" grease.......

Best of luck and it is a very messy job, but try to have fun!  Just keep thinking about all the "good stuff" you are going to do with the old C-100.

Hey, just how did you wear out your N-50???

CarolineR's picture

We received these questions from Matt - my answers are ~in italics~:

(1) How far in do you screw the two bolts that you're using to pull it out?  Do they have threading on the transmission housing behind them, or do they simply hit a blank wall and bottom out. 

~The definitive answer to this question will have to wait till my husband gets home from work - I *think* he screwed them in till they bottomed out, but I'm not certain.~

(2) To clarify, in this image (, it looks like one of the bolts on the transmission plate goes into the transmission housing.  If it does, then no amount of slamming would pull the transmission out since it's still bolted to the unit.

~It's really a pity they picture the transmission case only from above, so there's no official diagram of this.  I'm pretty sure the pin you've circled is an indexing pin - it's still there after everything inside the transmission case is cleaned out: ~

I did see the post about the generic puller and I'll probably try that in the near future... my impact wrench may give me a leg up on the machine.

~ I urged Ed to take the least violent approach possible (impact wrench: shudder!) and he capitulated. It may actually stand up to that, but I protested at anything more than the 2x4 sledge hammer approach - we already knew that replacement parts aren't available, and as BetsyMePooch pointed out, we hadn't thought of constructing a puller.  Wish we'd thought of that, it's a GREAT idea. ~

flormont's picture

Hello everyone,

I missed the action because I'm coming here too late ...

... but just few words in order to confirm that the most safe and efficient way to remove the C100 transmission mechanism is to use a puller exactly as described by BetsyMePoocho. According to service manual Hobart devoted a special tool referenced #14202 to do this job. However this tool looks like the multi-purpose puller pictured above fitted with the rights extraction bolts.

Here are the instructions given by the service manual :
"A special pulling device must be used to remove the bottom cover [...] Screw the hook and screw into the holes in sides where #10-24 x 1 1/2" screws were removed from. Turn them both in the same amount and connect them to the puller. Turn down the screws against the planetary shaft and extert pressure on the shaft.
When pressure is exerted on the shaft, the front of the bottom cover will raise but the rear of cover will remain in its original position. This is because the puller is in an eccentric position. To raise the entire cover, tap the front edge with a plastic hammer while turning down screw, and the cover will raise evenly [...]".


CarolineR's picture

Flormont,  Would you please message me?  It sounds as if you have a service manual - if that's so, please let me know how to get a copy!  Thanks  - Caroline



CarolineR's picture

Central Mass Powder Coating just called to let us know the mixer shell is done. 

Here's what the parts looked like as we picked them up:

We chose a darker color and a crinkle finish compared to what they used in the factory, for the simple reason that the welds were coarsely finished, and this is (we think) somewhat thinner than the factory paint. 

Cost: $500.  There was a ton of masking involved, and we were explicit about what we wanted done with every little screw hole.  They did a fabulous job. 

The other objects in this photo are parts of our CL grain mill, which we had blasted and powder coated at the same time (we bought a used mill; its original paint was flaking off, into the grain hopper).



flormont's picture

Well done Caroline, now it's time to put your C100's parts together, best rewarding step of the whole refurbishing process ;-)


ttmad's picture

Can I get a copy of your Hobart C100 service manual? Thanks!!!!



CarolineR's picture

Thanks for your assistance! We really feel as if this mixer rehab is an example of "it takes a village to..." <fill in the blank>.  We've received SO much help from Freshloaf posters, couldn't have gotten this far without you all.

Most rewarding: It's a tossup between having it purr after it’s assembled, or savoring the first loaf of bread that it kneads.  

Photos (and maybe short video clip, if it really does purr) will probably end up at least linked, if not outright posted, on Freshloaf.   Originally, I had thought we'd be done by early May, but we didn't get the mixer back till May 1st.  So now we expect to be done rebuilding by late May or June, with the writeup ready sometime this summer.

givemethedough's picture

Hello all,

Looking for a C100 service manual. If anyone out there has a pdf, can you please share? Thanks!


Camarie's picture

I wanted this mixer so bad, but it's just too expensive!! I IS a beat!! Very powerful!!