The Fresh Loaf

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At Last! The baguette crumb I've been looking for

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Elagins's picture
Elagins

At Last! The baguette crumb I've been looking for

Finally, I got the crumb I've been looking for, and it came about by accident.

To enlarge the crumb, I've been gradually reducing the kneading time, lowering the flour strength and increasing the hydration of my baguette doughs. Finally, I got it right on New Year's Eve, when we were having some friends over and decided that crostini would be on the menu. My wife and I were both very busy that day and I was in a rush to get the bread done, since one of our ovens went on the fritz the day before (naturally!) and so we only had one oven to work with and lots of baking.

To make a long story even longer, I mixed the dough (Giusto's Artisan Flour, 75% hydration, 2% salt, 1% IDY) in my KA and worked it under the paddle for about a minute, when the dough started coming together and the gluten clearly was forming. Without thinking, I put it onto my kneading board, and only when it was there did i realize that I'd intended to work it under the dough hook for another couple of minutes.  "Oh, well," I thought, "No time like New Year's Eve for an experiment." So I let the dough sit on the board and gave it four stretch-and-folds about 20-25 minutes apart.  The dough came up beautifully.

Handling it very gently, I scaled it to 225 g/8oz and let it rest for another 20 minutes or so before rolling it out and arranging the six loaves en couche for about 75 minutes of proofing. Oven preheated t0 500F/260C. I steamed the oven, slashed and loaded the loaves, then steamed again at 3 minutes, reducing the temp at that time to 450F/230C. Baked for about 10 minutes longer and got terrific oven spring, as the photo shows. What the  photo doesn't do justice to is the gorgeous yellow color of the crumb.

All in all, a very satisfying bake.

Next batch will be at 80% hydration, and I'll also see how other flours (i.e., Sir Galahad, Harvest King, La Parisienne) behave under these same conditions. Will keep you all posted.

Stan Ginsberg
www.nybakers.com

Comments

proth5's picture
proth5

Nice looking bread.  I've been playing around with mix techniques on these devilishly simple, yet difficult breads for awhile.

I have worked with a technique where the dough is mixed in a spiral mixer to about the consistency of thick soup and then given a folds as you describe.  It is miraculous.  And it really doesn't require extra gentle handling once the dough is fully developed.

I think back to "my teacher" explaining that mixing a dough to reasonable development and then give it a fold at 20 minutes into the bulk fermentation to increase its gas rententaion capabilities (which is what you want to be doing).  I'm currently fooling around with the double hydration technique (which does a pretty good job of devloping the dough in the mixer), but with the same mix technique, the baguette dough with the fold at 20 minutes, rather than waiting until midway through the bulk fermentation process definitely has a more open crumb.

Just a data point that you could consider.

clazar123's picture
clazar123

So the best way to get the open crumb is:

  • lower protein flour (You used Sir Galahad)
  • high hydration dough (about 75%?)
  • mix for about a minute only in a stand mixer and then set it up for bulk fermentation (in a bowl?)
  • S&F about 20 minutes into the bulk fermentation (do you S&F again a few more times?)
  • Shape,proof,bake at high temp with steam

Beautiful crumb on the crostini! That is something I am working on this year. All my loaves taste good but have too uniform a crumb. Thanks for sharing!

Elagins's picture
Elagins

bulk fermented on the board (covered w/plastic) and stretched and folded a total of 4 times.

otherwise, all of your bullet points are right on the mark.

Enjoy!

Stan

Jessica Weissman's picture
Jessica Weissman

Tried this with Giusto's La Parisienne, 75% hydration and a tiny bit more yeast.   Held back the salt, mixed for a minute, let autolyze for 7 or 8 minutes, then added the salt and mixed for another minute.

Bulk rose in the mixer bowl, stretched and folded four times, let rest only 15 minutes, rose in a couche for an hour, and baked as described, on a stone.

GREAT results.  Thanks for setting the example.  I'll have to order more La P from the NYB store.  I think I'll add a bit of starter to enhance the flavor, too.

-  Jessica

Jessica Weissman's picture
Jessica Weissman

I tried it again last night with two tweaks:  I substituted about 2TB of whole wheat flour and added about one TB of my starter.  Both improved the taste, and I still got the open crumb and good crust.  

-  Jessica

Jessica Weissman's picture
Jessica Weissman

I tried it again last night with two tweaks:  I substituted about 2TB of whole wheat flour and added about one TB of my starter.  Both improved the taste, and I still got the open crumb and good crust.  

-  Jessica