Submitted by Debra Wink on April 13, 2009 - 11:23am

Flouring the Work Surface


A couple weeks ago, I got the urge to bake some biscuits to go with the big pot of vegetable-beef stew I had simmering on the stove. I rarely make biscuits because we don't eat refined carbs most days. But once in a while, I just get a craving for old-fashioned comfort food. And, light biscuits are still on my list of things to master before I die. Both the fluffy kind, and the flaky kind. So now, I probably have you thinking this post is about biscuits, and it really isn't. I found this recipe for Flaky Buttermilk Buscuits in Cook's Illustrated (Jan/Feb 2006), and decided to give it a whirl. Not too bad, huh?

The biscuits were higher and flakier than I ever thought possible, but I screwed up a couple steps, and they were not quite as great as they could have been. I forgot to heed the warning to not open the oven door, which I did to rotate the pan halfway through baking. The biscuits immediately fell about half an inch--if you can believe it, they were actually taller than this! Then I didn't pull them out of the oven soon enough, and they turned out a bit too overdone. But what potential these have, so hopefully there will be another post about them in the future. When I've mastered them...

What today's entry's about, is the technique utilized in this recipe for flouring the counter. It worked so well for me, I thought I should share. Ordinarily, I just sprinkle or dust the flour over the surface, as evenly as I can, but sometimes I get a few "drops" that need smoothing out. And sweeping your hand over the top, really just wipes the flour away and it ends up too thin to keep wet or soft dough from sticking. The author, Sean Lawler has you first spray the counter lightly with non-stick spray, and spread the oil evenly with a cloth or paper towel. It really gives the flour something to adhere to, but the dough releases easily. It worked really well for laminating this sticky biscuit dough, and I think it would be great for rolling out pie pastry too. Try it.

 

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Another method

Hi, Debra.

Those biscuits look delicious!

Regarding dusting the bench: I use a flour shaker, which gives me a pretty even dusting. 

David

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I like this idea!

I really like the idea of spraying the countertop first. I've made more than my share of biscuits lately and noticed how sometimes areas are prone to sticking. This is a great method, I suppose, for pie crust as well.

--Pamela

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Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits

FLAKY BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

Makes 12 biscuits.   Published January 1, 2006.

The dough is a bit sticky when it comes together and during the first set of turns. Set aside about 1 cup of extra flour for dusting the work surface, dough, and rolling pin to prevent sticking. Be careful not to incorporate large pockets of flour into the dough when folding it over. When cutting the biscuits, press down with firm, even pressure; do not twist the cutter. The recipe may be prepared through step 2, transferred to a zipper-lock freezer bag, and frozen for several weeks. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before proceeding.

INGREDIENTS

2 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (12 1/2 ounces), plus additional flour for work surface
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon table salt
2 tablespoons vegetable shortening , cut into 1/2-inch chunks
8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick), cold, lightly floured and cut into 1/8-inch slices (see illustration below)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter , melted
1 1/4 cups low-fat buttermilk , cold

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 450 degrees. Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in large bowl.

  2. 2. Add shortening to flour mixture; break up chunks with fingertips until only small, pea-sized pieces remain. Working in batches, drop butter slices into flour mixture and toss to coat; pick up each slice of butter and press between floured fingertips into flat, nickel-sized pieces (see illustration at right). Repeat until all butter is incorporated; toss to combine. Freeze mixture (in bowl) until chilled, about 15 minutes.

  3. 3. Spray 24-inch-square area of work surface with nonstick cooking spray; spread spray evenly across surface with kitchen towel or paper towel. Sprinkle 1/3 cup of extra flour across sprayed area; gently spread flour across work surface with palm to form thin, even coating. Add all but 2 tablespoons of buttermilk to flour mixture; stir briskly with fork until ball forms and no dry bits of flour are visible, adding remaining buttermilk as needed (dough will be sticky and shaggy but should clear sides of bowl). With rubber spatula, transfer dough onto center of prepared work surface, dust surface lightly with flour, and, with floured hands, bring dough together into cohesive ball.

  4. 4. Pat dough into approximate 10-inch square; roll into 18 by 14-inch rectangle about 1/4 inch thick, dusting dough and rolling pin with flour as needed. Following illustrations below, using bench scraper or thin metal spatula, fold dough into thirds, brushing any excess flour from surface; lift short end of dough and fold in thirds again to form approximate 6 by 4-inch rectangle. Rotate dough 90 degrees, dusting work surface underneath with flour; roll and fold dough again, dusting with flour as needed.

  5. 5. Roll dough into 10-inch square about 1/2 inch thick; flip dough and cut nine 3-inch rounds with floured biscuit cutter, dipping cutter back into flour after each cut. Carefully invert and transfer rounds to ungreased baking sheet, spaced 1 inch apart. Gather dough scraps into ball; roll and fold once or twice until scraps form smooth dough. Roll dough into 1/2-inch-thick round; cut three more 3-inch rounds and transfer to baking sheet. Discard excess dough.

6. Brush biscuit tops with melted butter. Bake, without opening oven door, until tops are golden brown and crisp, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool on baking sheet 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

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 Hello xaipete,I tried your

 Hello xaipete,

I tried your biscuit last night and it turned out great! I have been looking for such a flaky and light biscuit.  All of the biscuits were gone before I took a picture of it.

I am very pleased with your biscuit.  My son ate 5 of them! He really liked yours.

P.S Thank you, Debra Wink too!  Your posts of " Baking powder" and this one are very useful.  I couldn't find "ARGO" and I used " RUMFORD" that was just opened.   All of your biscuits look awesome.

Thank you!!

Akiko

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Cook's Illustrated

You're most welcome Akiko,

And thank you! These biscuits are very good, I totally agree. If you can't find ARGO at your market, you might look for the Bob's Red Mill next time, in either the health food area, or with the other BRM products. Either will give so much more lift in this recipe than Rumford. Not to disparage Rumford though---it is my favorite for cakes.

Happy Baking!
dw

P.S.  Just to clarify and give proper credit, this recipe, as well as the flouring tip came from Cook's Illustrated, and is the same one used in the baking powder testing.

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Thank you for your kindness,

Thank you for your kindness, Debra!  Thank you for your P.S too, that is very generous. 

I will keep my mind to get  Bob's Red Mill baking powder"   I will try to use Rumford for cakes! I love baking cakes. :)

 Have you ever tried to use homemade butter milk for the biscuit?   I make homemade unsalted butter to make croissants and it turns out great and tasty , and I used the butter milk  that I squeezed after mixing some whipping heavy cream.. Some people use heavy cream.  I don't know which is good though.  Surely,the buttermilk tastes better than the store ones that I used to buy.

Happy baking too!

Akiko

 

 

 

Biscuits

Mmmmmm.......they look like real cloud biscuits. Bet they taste just as good too:)

 

Ian

 

 

flouring the work surface

even with your mistakes, debra, they look gorgeous nevertheless.  isn't cook's illustrated just great?  well their slogan is "recipes that work" or something to that effect.  thanks for the tip about spraying non-stick oil on the surface.  i use a silicon mat, but will try your technique as well.

for xaipete, thanks for that recipe!

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Ques2008, I have learned so

Ques2008, I have learned so much from CI over the years. I don't always share their opinions on "the best recipe," but there's always information in the articles that help you to tweak recipes to your own tastes. I was surprised at how easy it was to get impressive results with this one. It's a keeper :-)

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Better than flour alone

David, I have a small strainer I sometimes use as a flour shaker, although I've gotten pretty good at the sideways toss :-)  Regardless of how evenly the flour distributes, I found the oil and flour to work better than flour alone, where the flour needs to be pretty thick, as for sticky biscuit dough. And it is quicker, because you can dump the flour and spread it with your hand. It makes a velvety surface.

Pamela, I think this would be perfect for pie crust. Now that spring is here, I've been dreaming of strawberry-rhubarb pie...

Ian, the tops and bottoms were crisp, and pretty darned tasty. The height is impressive, because there's so much baking powder. I'm still trying different brands, to see which tastes the best without compromising rise.

baking powder

Edna Lewis has a recipe for homemade baking powder that is supposed to be the best for baking in terms of flavor:

For single-acting baking powder, combine 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of baking soda. The mix will keep in a tightly sealed jar for up to 1 month.

I haven't tried it, but she was the queen of Southern cooking.

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Thanks for the tip :-)

Thanks for the tip :-)

baking powder

Edna Lewis has a recipe for homemade baking powder that is supposed to be the best for biscuit flavor:

For single-acting baking powder, combine 2 tablespoons of cream of tartar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of baking soda. The mix will keep in a tightly sealed jar for up to 1 month.

I haven't tried it, but she was the queen of Southern cooking!

Cooks Illustrated

I have their recipe for fluffy biscuits memorized.  Back when I was a bike racer and burned a lot more calories I had them nearly every morning.  I never did try the flaky version.  Thanks for the reminder!

Summer

A newbie and his questions

Debra,

  Thanks for all the great tips and tricks. I recently tried some biscuits and was hoping you might be able to help with some claification.

1. I followed the Bakewell cream biscuit recipe but substituted the 4 tsp Bakewell cream & 2 tsp baking soda for 4 tsp glabber girl baking powder as the recipe stated for a conversion. If I read correctly I should have increased the amount of baking powder to 6 tsp not 4? 

2. I also substituted buttermilk instead of regular milk. Should I have added something to offset the acid in the buttermilk?

3. While incorporating the butter is there a risk of over working the fluor and making the dough tough? Or is it to early in the process to worry about that?

4. When I added the buttermilk and mixed the dough I couldn't get all of the fluor to incorporate into the dough ball. I was afraid to overwork the dough though. Is it normal for the dough to be very crumbly or should it all come together in a ball? Should more liquid be added?

5. In regards to flaky biscuits once you've done your initial roll out of the dough do you dust the dough prior to folding to keep the layers from fusing together? Also after folding and then rolling the dough it seems like it would just work back together. Do the layers naturally stay apart?

 

Thanks for your time and patience I appreciate your help

-Adam-

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Leavening Equivalents

Hi Adam,

Biscuits can be challenging, can't they? But very satisfying to master. Like most other things baked, a little practice goes a long way.

1. I followed the Bakewell cream biscuit recipe but substituted the 4 tsp Bakewell cream & 2 tsp baking soda for 4 tsp glabber girl baking powder as the recipe stated for a conversion. If I read correctly I should have increased the amount of baking powder to 6 tsp not 4?

That's right, 4 tsp Bakewell cream + 2 tsp baking soda = 6 tsp (2 Tbl) baking powder, according to the guidelines on the label. But the general rule is that there is 1/4 tsp of soda per 1 tsp of baking powder, so their substitution rate may be a bit off (4+2 tsp being the equivalent of about 8 tsp. baking powder, since powder has some filler to bulk it out and keep the acid and base dry). For comparison, 8 tsp for 4 cups flour is the same amount of leavening as the Cook's Illustrated recipe earlier in this thread (1 Tbl powder + 1/2 tsp soda is the equivalent of 5 tsp baking powder for the 2 1/2 cups flour)---or 1 tsp for every half-cup.

2. I also substituted buttermilk instead of regular milk. Should I have added something to offset the acid in the buttermilk?

Not necessarily, although you probably didn't have enough leavening to start with. Assuming 8 tsp of baking powder, there should have already been enough leavening, so if you were happy with the taste, you wouldn't need to adjust anything else. If you found it too tangy, then you can reduce the baking powder a bit and add a little baking soda---up to 1/2 tsp per cup of buttermilk, to mellow it and provide the balance of the leavening.

The Bakewell Cream recipe calls for 1 1/2 cups milk, so to substitute buttermilk, you can add 3/4 tsp baking soda and reduce your Clabber Girl to 4-5 tsp.

3. While incorporating the butter is there a risk of over working the fluor and making the dough tough? Or is it to early in the process to worry about that?

I don't think so, because butter is mostly fat which coats the proteins and interferes with gluten formation---that's why it is added before the liquids.

4. When I added the buttermilk and mixed the dough I couldn't get all of the flour to incorporate into the dough ball. I was afraid to overwork the dough though. Is it normal for the dough to be very crumbly or should it all come together in a ball? Should more liquid be added?

Biscuit dough should be relatively wet, so it sounds like you needed more liquid. Keep in mind that buttermilk is thicker than sweet milk, but also that different flours absorb at different rates. The recipe states that "some flours may require a little more liquid to make a nice soft dough." That gives you an idea of the consistency you're looking for.

5. In regards to flaky biscuits once you've done your initial roll out of the dough do you dust the dough prior to folding to keep the layers from fusing together? Also after folding and then rolling the dough it seems like it would just work back together. Do the layers naturally stay apart?

The Bakewell Cream is a fluffy biscuit. For flaky, as the Cook's recipe here, instead of cutting all your fat into the flour in the usual way, you rub the butter into big flakes, being very careful after to mix your liquids in gently (I toss with a rubber spatula), so as not to destroy all those flakes. When you roll it, the flakes flatten out and allign with the dough, and the subsequent "turns" serve to laminate it with all those flakes of butter separating the dough layers. You want to avoid working in any more flour because that will toughen and make for dry biscuits. The layers will stay apart, so long as you take care to use proper technique and temperatures throughout.

I hope that helps, and good luck with your biscuits.   -dw

Partial success!!

Well I broke down and ordered the Bakewell cream the other day. Last night it arrived and proceded to make a 1/4 batch of their biscuit recipe. They were delicious but I still walked away with a couple concerns.

1. Per the recipe I divided all measurement in 1/4. This in turn had me adding 6 tablespoons of buttermilk to the 1 cup of fluor(+ other items) It wasn't nearly enough. After I attempted to stir with a fork for a bit I gave up, went to my wing it routes, and added a little more buttermilk until all the ingredients were together. This did make a slightly sticky dough though.

2. I typically bake on a stone and have noticed that if i put any biscuit on the stone but the time the inside is done the bottom and lower sides are pretty crunchy. Any ideas? Should I just use a cookie sheet and my silpat?

3. The biscuits had great flavor(best yet) but they crumbled to bits on the inside. As soon as you broke them apart with a fork and attempted to place jelly on them the inside would just stick to the jelly leaving a shell. Any advice on this little mystery?

I'm getting there

Thanks again

Adam

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