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Wapcaplet

I had a great success in sourdough this week, with the most impossibly light and even crumb.

My previous sourdough, and many photos I've seen of quality sourdough, have a preponderance of large irregular bubbles. This is totally unlike that.


The recipe is Flo's 1.2.3 proportion:

200g levain
400g warm water
600g flour (about 1/3 whole wheat, the rest white AP)
12g salt (about 2 teaspoons table salt)

The levain, assembled the night before, is simply a freshly fed starter: 70g mature starter, 70g water, 70g flour, mixed in a smallish bowl, and folded with a spoon a few times before bed.

Day of, combine the levain, water, and flour; stir just to moisten, then sprinkle with the salt (so I don't forget, and to let it start to absorb) - the autolyse. I think I left it for an hour. Knead with the stand mixer for say six minutes. Rest for an hour, stretch and fold in thirds a couple times, then long rise in the "easy bake oven" (oven with the light bulb turned on) until it doubled, which happened surprisingly fast, in less than 3 hours.

I shaped it into 4 nice mini-loaves of French-style bread. Vertical slices are a good size for French toast or just everyday bread/toast, plus you get more heels, a perfect size for sandwiches when sliced horizontally.

Anyhow, after a faster-than-usual final proofing, I finished them in a 450F oven with a pan of water, and liberal spray-bottle for steam and crust.

As noted, I was blown away by how perfectly even and fine the crumb is. The whole wheat flour surely plays a role here, but it's no change from how I've usually baked this bread. I didn't use any bread flour except a couple tablespoons left over in the starter.

The biggest change from my previous sourdoughs is how long I kneaded with the stand mixer. Normally I don't do this, instead mixing by hand and doing only a few stretch-and-folds. The more intense kneading at the beginning distributes the colony and its proto-bubbles more consistently, while stretch-and-fold I guess would result in more distinct layers of more-or-less active cultures, and pockets of larger or smaller bubbles as a result.

Flo's formula is great; easy to remember, easy to scale, and flexible on assembly and fermentation times. When I built this one, I did a sort of "mise en place" with the bowl of levain, a measuring cup of water, and a tub of pre-mixed flours, so I could simply combine them the next morning.
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Wapcaplet

This is perhaps my 5th attempt at making bread with sourdough starter, without any commercial yeast. Three of my previous attempts used a Sourdough pain naturel recipe with various mixes of whole wheat, white bread flour, and unbleached all-purpose flour, and one was an improvised recipe using white flours. I used an overnight levain with only a small amount of starter (~15g) for all of these.

For the 5th try, I used Flo Makanai's 1.2.3 method to make a small batch (2 short baguettes) using only unbleached all-purpose flour (Safeway brand), and I'm very happy with the result. The taste, crust, and crumb are every bit as good as my best commercial-yeast French bread (using Julia Child's recipe); it is slightly on the dense, too-chewy end of the spectrum, but that may not be a bad thing.

I did not do an overnight levain this time; instead, I took the starter proportion straight from my mature culture (100% hydration by weight), which had not been fed in almost 24 hours.

Here are the total proportions I used:

  • 100g starter
  • 200g water
  • 300g flour
  • 7g salt

In the past I've had some problems getting all the flour to be evenly moistened by the autolysis, and it can be hard to incorporate the salt into a shaggy autolysed dough, so I changed up the procedure a little this time, hoping to alleviate these.

This morning, in a medium-sized bowl I combined 200g water with 200g flour, as kind of a "2/3 autolyse", since it leaves out 100g of the total flour. After mixing this, I sprinkled the 7g of table salt on top so it could start dissolving.

About 30 minutes later, I added the remaining 100g flour, and the 100g of starter, and stirred just enough to moisten it. Unfortunately, it was still kind of lumpy due to the dry flour, but it smoothed out after a few stretch-and-slap-and-folds over the next couple hours. There was not a significant rise in volume during that time, but plenty of large bubbles, and the texture of the dough felt just right - silky, yielding, and sticky if you touch it for too long.

By lunchtime it looked ready to be shaped into loaves. I went with two small baguettes, since the dough seemed pretty slack, and I didn't want one big flat chunk. These rose for almost two hours, nearly doubling in volume.

I baked them on small cookie sheets on parchment paper, in a 450F oven on the upper rack for about 30 minutes. For steam, I use a broiler pan of water on the bottom rack, and a hand spritzer against the walls of the oven every few minutes. I also sprayed the top of the loaves a few times to give them a nice crust, and rotated the pans to get even browning.

This is a recipe I will definitely use again!

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Wapcaplet

This is a recipe of my own, adapted from a similar recipe I use for pancakes, which was based on a simple sourdough crumpet recipe (starter, salt, sugar, soda), which itself made half decent pancakes, or "pan-fakes" as my wife named them. The added eggs and oil make them more like real waffles (or pancakes), but are more airy and crispy than similar ones made from milk and straight flour.

  • 1 cup ripe 100% hydration sourdough starter
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 T sugar
  • 2 T oil
  • 2 T wheat flour
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp baking soda

Combine all ingredients except the baking soda in a 1-quart or larger bowl, and whisk to combine. The batter should be slightly runny but not watery; adjust with flour as needed.

When the waffle iron is ready, add the baking soda and stir. The acid in the starter will react with the baking soda and make the batter extremely bubbly, almost foamy. Scoop in about 1/2 cup or whatever's right for your iron, erring on the low side for the first waffle until you see how much it expands.

They are great fresh, but also freeze and toast well. And so light, you may need to have seconds...

 

Wapcaplet's picture
Wapcaplet

Some weeks back I checked out Ken Forkish's "Flour Water Salt Yeast" ebook from the local library, and began lurking on these forums. I have learned a great deal about bread from all of your expertise here.

I read the first part of the book and thought of trying his sourdough starter recipe, at vastly smaller portions. I think he suggests 500g each per feeding, which is crazy for a beginner--why on earth would you need so much when billions of these organisms can live in a teaspoon?

Anyway, using more like 150g each of whole wheat flour and water, it started off smelling like rotted onions (the leuconostocs, as I later learned), settling down to a mild glue-like odor by the second week after switching to an all AP flour diet. But the bubbling activity was always weak, and tasted only sour--not yeasty at all. I suspect that I started twice-daily feedings too soon, and diluted the small yeast population to near extinction. After weeks it was going nowhere, so I made pancakes with the discard, and looked for another recipe.

I was happy to find Debra Wink's pineapple juice solution, and especially appreciated the thorough explanation of biology and chemistry that came with it. This was a refreshing change from the popular notions about local yeast drifting in on the air and mysteriously finding a balance. She explained well how creating the acidic environment first could give the culture a head start.

Her recipe only adds, not discarding, for the first few days, which makes a lot of sense. Not having pineapple juice, I used some expired frozen apple juice concentrate (having similar acidity). Two tablespoons each of juice and whole wheat flour; add two more each the next day, and the next. After that, discard all but approx. 1/4c, adding equal weights of AP four and filtered water.

The smelly phase was neatly averted; I noticed a sour aroma and hooch formation after 3-4 days, and by 1 week it had a definite yeast taste, though still a kind of bland sour smell. There was a surprise around days 8-10, when it smelled exactly like fresh apples--this long after the apple juice has been diluted out. But the apple smell didn't last; shortly after, it took on a kind of fruity banana-like smell (with a hint of paint or glue), which it has had ever since.

With few exceptions, I have fed my starter once a day. This has made for plenty of discards to turn into banana bread, waffles and pancakes, but still seems like a lot of diluting the colony. Since the first few days, I had never seen the telltale layer of hooch that means the starter is starving. Could I go two days without feeding? Longer?

So I did an experiment--I started a child feeding in a separate jar, 25g starter + 25g each AP flour and water (total of 75g), and did not feed it for 10 days. I gave it an occasional stir, but that's it. I kept feeding my mother culture in the original jar once a day as always. My kitchen is around 65-70F most of the time.

After 7 days, the unfed culture still bubbled away happily, rising about 50% between stirrings. No hooch, no sharp acetone smell--still the same fruity sweet-and-sour fragrance, and a tangy sour beer-like taste.

Drawing off a spoonful of this aged mixture, I did a comparison of activity between it and my fed-daily mother culture.

Child: 20g aged (7 day) starter, 20g water, 20g AP flour (small jar)
Mother: 50g starter, 50g water, 50g AP flour (large jar)

Both appeared to rise identically, each gaining around 75% volume in their respective vessels. Similar bubble action, similar fruity aromas and sour tangy taste.

If an 8-day-old starter still bubbles up to a moderate rise, there must still be some food for the yeast and lactobacillus to eat. As long as they're not apparently starving, what's the advantage to dumping a trillion happy critters in the waffle iron? Why not let them multiply and become concentrated?

So I'm thinking of skipping the daily feedings, and will simply let the colony mature. It wouldn't hurt to feed it once a week at least, but I can't seem to make enough waffles with the discards to justify daily feeding regimen, even with only a few spoonfuls a day.

After 10 days without a feeding, stirring once or twice a day, the aged starter finally stopped rising, and had minimal bubbling. There was only about 2 tablespoons of it left, so I simply fed it (no discard) with equal weights of warm water and AP flour in the evening. The next morning, it had almost tripled in bulk, filling a 1-pint jar to the brim (but luckily not overflowing). This is the best rise I've ever seen from the culture!

Is there value in sticking to a daily (or twice daily) feeding schedule, when it may take up to 10 days for a single feeding to be depleted? Or is it better to allow the starter to age long enough for the food to be fully consumed, and to become more concentrated with beasties?

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