So, I took time to fix my previous roti gambang, both formula-wise and makeup-wise. I decided to do pain viennois approach, but at 60% hydration. I was quite surprise to know that pain viennois can be done at hydration as low as 50% (which will be a lot closer to the traditional scone-style roti gambang). But after few tests, I like the mouthfeel of 60% hydration better. This is my fifth trial batch.
I did a lot of tweaks, two of them worth mentioning is the addition of molasses and a tweak on incorporating orange zest. I used molasses to give deeper color, since the first batch wasn't dark enough. I switch from 2% candied orange peel to 1% orange peel, milled with a portion of the flour in the formula. Amazing how a simple tweak could reduce the amount of zest needed.
The zest is there mainly to brighten the flavor without making the buns taste orangey. If I by any chance work with a slow levain that results in acidic batch, the orange zest also temper the sourness, making the buns nicely sweet, sour, and orangey. A sort of safety net, in a way.
I previously did 50% hydration too. I love how the pre-proofing scoring is more pronounced. Unfortunately I enjoy the mouthfeel of 60% hydration better.
50% hydration batch
Change log:
- Increased PFF from 20% to 30%
- Reduced the use of VWG
- Reduced butter from 35% to 20%
- Increased homemade dried Gros Michel bananas from 20% to 30%
- Reduced orange zest
- Added molasses
- Reduced eggs
- Increased hydration
- Pain viennois makeup
- Reduced sesame seeds topping, interfering with overall flavor profile
I put the formula down here for 2 days, otherwise deleted. Nowadays I use a combination of fructose and sorbitol to control osmotic pressure in my buttered sweet bran starter. I might make a post about my two bran starters, but no promise is made.
Verdict
They taste lighter, brighter, deeper. This batch is so mild in acidity, despite hot ambient temperature, and my unwillingness to do fussy pH and temperature measurements (life's too short, man). My banana guy happened to have really overripe Gros Michel bananas, and the flavor really came through. I'm saying it in all seriousness, you don't know banana bread in any form if you've never used overriped Gros Michel bananas. They are really godsent.
When just finished final mixing, tasting the dough was like, "The hell is this?!" But after all the flavor meld together, and fermentation flavor chiming in, it's day and night difference. I always do aliquot jar measurement, and I always taste the tiny piece of dough by the end of final proofing.
I'm satisfied with the overall flavor profile. I like this batch 5 times better than the first batch. I might have deviated too much from the original roti gambang, but I'm confident I can win the hearts of the conservatives.
I found dichotomies fascinating. Romantic, in a way. And these buns are both innovative and rustic. I just flipped chemically leavened scones into naturally leavened buns!
Oh, I already started my cinnamon rolls trials, already passed dough-formula and portioning tests. They are super soft, and featuring icing you've never seen anywhere. Can't wait!
Jay
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