Buttermilk Bulgur Loaf

Toast
Buttermilk, bulgur wheat, raisins and oats

Not exactly sure why, possibly Benny’s latest poppy seed eye popper or possibly Passi(io)nate Tom’s explorations, but I got inspired to revive an old family favorite that’s gone missing since I dove into baking with sourdough. For most of our boys’ childhood, my darling wife made bread 2-3 times a week. Her quest to increase whole grain consumption eventually yielded  an awfully good loaf starring whole wheat flour, bulgur wheat (wheat berries just wouldn’t cooperate), wheat bran, raisins, rolled oats and nuts.

So, I thought, could we revive that loaf possibly with a liquid levain, biga (still searching for reasons to use it in lieu of poolish) and buttermilk (had some hanging around for too long)?

I started with a target dough weight of 2.5 kg for 3 loaves. After soaking 180 g of bulgur wheat, I ended up with 500+ g of soaker, so now my target dough weight was 2 kg which at 74% hydration and 14% other enrichments took the flour target down to about 1.05 kg which was composed of 40% bread, 50% AP (over half of that in the pre-ferments) and 10% whole wheat. 300 g liquid levain at 100% hydration and 200 g biga at 50% hydration provided the fermentation engine.

I mixed up the levain, biga flour, buttermilk (plus a little whole milk) and then I started ad libbing. My wife’s legacy method ground raisins, oats and nuts in the food processor, so I followed suit with 100 g each, with pecans providing the nutty component. Couldn’t really treat this mixture like a soaker as the dry oats would surely consume some of the dough’s liquid portion. A quick test on 20 g of oats showed that they would absorb 150% of their dry weight in water. So now I added an extra 150 g of milk along with the 300 g of the mixture. Then the bulgur wheat and a bit of butter landed in the dough which was now approaching 3 kg total weight of some unknowable hydration.

What was clear was that a less than 2/3 of the dough was glutinous and I was getting concerned that there would not be enough gluten network to support the 800+ g of inclusions. But the dough texture seemed right after 10 minutes of kneading in the Ank.

2 hours of bulk with stretch and folds, then shaping 3 850g loaves and a single baguettish freestanding loaf which proofed for another 3 hours at 80° F. It seemed like bulk and proof went quite a bit faster than expected. Unclear as to whether the biga made a difference. Final results were really very good. A good moist crumb with a chewy crust (crisp and crackly when toasted). Toasted slices made great sandwiches with pâté de campagne, red onions and sriracha mayo.

As for the biga I’m still undecided…but next batch of baguettes will see if I can approach the crumb of master Wilson’s incredible lievito madre bags recently described. Until next time, a biento.

Phil

What a nice open crumb, especially considering the non-flour ingredients! I sounds just like what I like in toasted slices.

TomP

Love the inclusions and soaker ideas.  This must taste amazing.

Best,

Ian

Now to replicate lol! I run into that a lot with my husband. Can you make this again???!! I love it. 

I hope you will try it again and write it out. I haven’t used bulgar in years. Would be fun to try again. 

Love the texture and moistness that it imparts. Lately our fantastic Italian Grocers, Corti Bros, also started stocking pearled durum which looks like a lighter colored version of bulgur and has similar properties. Nice thing about both grains is they work great in pilafs and salads (tabouleh) as well as breads.
Caroline, I’ll review my spreadsheet and build a formula for a 2 loaf batch to be appended here in the next day or so.

Phil

I ran a food coop in the 80’s for 8 years. We used to use bulgar in everything! I’ll look forward to the recipe. I use buttermilk in everything as well as my homemade yogurt. 

Caroline, can you get good buttermilk where you are?  I'm lucky because we can get a wonderful, full-fat buttermilk in several local farm stores.  I think it's made in nearby Pennsylvania by the Homestead creamery. Expensive! but so good.

It’s just not stocked as often as I like. The Food Lion actually carries a very good one with nothing weird in it. We loved the one that Walmart carried for years . It had several cultures including a yogurt one in it. It was amazing. I think it’s no longer made as I can’t Google it anymore. Bulgarian Buttermilk. 

I’m going to try and make my own bulgur. They say use Durum wheat but I wonder if any hard red will work. Will try it and use the Marcato to coarse grind. Will post how it does. 

Found this about making bulgur


https://www.google.com/search?q=do+you+have+to+use+durum+wheat+to+make+bulgur+wheat&rlz=1CDGOYI_enUS1149US1149&oq=do+you+have+to+yse+durum+whea…

Phil, those baked up really well especially since you kind of rolled with it on the cuff.  Beautiful crumb and crust and I'm sure the flavour is outstanding.  I've never had bulgar to my knowledge unless it was in a cereal unbeknownst to me.

Benny

Caroline and all,

This should yield enough dough for 2 850g loaves

Phil

Plan

Dough Target 1700 g

Soaker 340 g (+/- based on 1/2 c bulgur wheat soaked in boiling water and drained)

150 g inclusions (50 g each rolled oats, raisins and nuts. I used pecans.)

Final dough target 1210 g (excluding soaker and inclusions)

 

Leavening

Liquid Levain 200 g (@100% hydration provides 100 g each liquid and flour)

Biga 150 g (@50% hydration provides 100 g flour and 50 g liquid)

 

Total flour 635 g

  • AP Flour 317 g (50% Total Flour)
  • Bread Flour 254 g (40% Total Flour)
  • WW Flour 63 g (10% Total Flour)

Liquid 545 g, mostly buttermilk (86% hydration...sounds high but the rolled oats consumes 150% of it's dry weight in liquid. Base recipe was 74% hydration before adjusting for the oats' thirst.)

Salt 15 g (2.3%)

Butter 37 g (5.8%)

 

Build

  1. Prepare liquid levain (I build over 36 hours starting with 5 g each starter, water and flour, then 12 hour feedings to yield target)
  2. At least 12 hours before dough prep, mix a pinch of ADY into 50 g water gently mix in 100 g flour to dryish, stringy consistency)
  3. Place oats, raisins and nuts into a food processor. Pulse and grind to fairly fine (coarse sand?) consistency.
  4. Place 395 g of buttermilk in mixer bowl with the levain and biga (tear the biga into smallish pieces). Soak for 30 minutes.
  5. Mix in flour and salt to a shaggy dough. Rest for 45 minutes.
  6. Develop the gluten. I mixed at Ank 2 for 5 minutes, then Ank 4 for 5 minutes.
  7. Add butter, then bulgur, then oat-raisin-nut mixture.
  8. Bulk ferment on bench for 3+ hours with at least 4 sets of stretch and folds 30 minutes apart. (I think you could shorten this then retard overnight in fridge.)
  9. Divide dough, shape and place in loaf pans. I proofed for 2+ hours at 80°.
  10. Bake in 350° preheated ovenfor 45-55 minutes. Remove from loaf pan, place back in oven for 5-10 minutes.

Sounds delicious! I always have pecans and almonds and raisins , cherries and dried blueberries so lots of possibilities. I’ll be trying this soon as our grands will be here for 2 weeks and they need good snacks. Thank you.