High-rise Soda Bread
Like many others I have tried my hand at Irish soda bread from time to time. I've never been happy with the results. The loaf has usually been flat, dry, crumbly, more scone-like. Usually I have baked the loaves free-standing, a few times in an open skillet, and I usually have used baking powder instead of baking soda because it's more tolerant and why not?
I've read up on the history of Irish soda bread, and I even received a bag of King Arthur's Irish-style Whole Wheat flour for Christmas.
Then I found this story by Stella Parks on Serious Eats that has changed everything -
https://www.seriouseats.com/real-irish-soda-bread-recipe
Digging deeply into how people actually made soda bread in the 19th century, she learned three things that make an enormous difference:
1. The dough should be *very* soft - as soft as can possibly be handled;
2. The dough needs to be alkaline, not acidic. So you need enough baking soda to neutralize the buttermilk's acidity (baking powder is fairly neutral and won't do that).
3. The bread was mostly baked in an iron pot with short legs and a cover, set over coals and with coals heaped on top. IOW, a Dutch Oven. Even when baked in a skillet, the skillet would have been covered.
Ms Parks tried it out, and she says the results were a revelation. No more crumbly, dry bread with little taste. To quote her,
Before digging in, I let the soda bread cool on a wire rack for about 15 minutes, a completely arbitrary time determined strictly by my own impatience. The sound of it was glorious, accompanied by a shower of crispy shards that flew out with every pass of the blade until my knife sank into a pillow crumb that gave way as cleanly as any sandwich loaf.
My first slice was without butter or salt, yet it tasted moist and rich, with an aroma something like that of a bakery-style pretzel—mild, but distinct. My second, third, fourth, and fifth slices were consumed in a blur of butter and honey
So I tried it and got pretty much the same result. That was with white AP flour. Then I made a loaf with 50% Irish-style WW, and that was wonderful too. Both these loaves were rather flat because my dutch oven is too big across to provide any real containment.
For today's bake, I used a smaller, ceramic pot (2.5 qt) to contain the dough, and I added some baking powder to get more lift. Wow! Look at that lift!
Here's what the loaf looked like before slicing:
Today I'm a happy camper!
TomP
Comments
you inspired me to try it, TomP. I made it with Siggi's plain nonfat drinkable yogurt. It's cooling now and I'll report back on crumb/texture/flavor later. Rob
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...though, for me, the flavor's not hitting all the notes serious eats claims.
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I made it with bread flour (that's what I had) and nonfat drinkable yogurt. Next time, I'll try a lighter flour and slightly more sour kefir & take your suggestion of jazzing it with a pinch of baking powder.
Rob
Nice looking loaf! I agree that Stella Parks seems to have gotten more intense flavors, though in my case it might be a matter of aging taste buds. I've also made this with 50% Irish-style whole wheat flour (King Arthur) and it works just as well. With a different flavor profile, of course.
The non-fat yogurt might partly account for the mild taste. My buttermilk is thick and creamy.
I have dabbled in the soda bread realm. One of the things I learned about how much buttermilk (or liquid) to add was that it had to be too thick to pour but too wet to knead or shape with the hands. That is what gave the best texture.
I was missing the yeasty taste, though and took a lesson from my GF days. I added a few tablespoon of nutritional yeast and have even used vegemite to impart a bit of yeasty flavor.
I have made soda bread in loaf pans and also added all different flavor profiles-raisins, craisins, nuts, coriander, and cinnamon, for example. So use your imagination and enjoy.
Beautiful loaf!
I probably would never have thought of using nutritional yeast. I did think about adding some sourdough until I learned that the dough should not be acidic.
Wow I can’t believe that is soda bread, very nice Tom. I’ve never made a soda bread before but you are giving me the inspiration to try it.
Benny
Pretty amazing, all right. The way I did it, with a thick paste-like dough, it really helps to have a pot that contains the bread as it cooks. I will probably try this in a Pullman pan one of these days. Here's what the 2-L pot I used looks like**:
https://shop.emilehenry.com/en/233--one-pot-casserole.html#/29-couleur-burgundy
**Honest, I'm not on commission here! It's just the only pot I have that's the right size and form factor.
Next on my agenda is an Infinity Bread version. I'll report on that once I put it together and try it out.
Here's the link to the Infinity Bread version of soda bread! It worked out better than I expected.
The link did not take.
Sorry, don't know where it went.
https://www.thefreshloaf.com/node/73128/community-bake-infinity-bread#comment-529736