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Panettone doesn't rise in oven

JConstante's picture

Panettone doesn't rise in oven

Hi guys, 

I'm new in this forum, I'm kinda new in the panettone world but had the courage to try to make it

My lievito madre rises 2.5x in 4 hours at 82F, which seems to be good. the recipe I used it's from my book: "Advanced Bread and Pastry"

First Dough Formula

Ingredients Baker’s % Kilogram US decimal Lb & Oz Test

Bread flour 100.00 0.980 2.160 2 2 1⁄2 6 7⁄8 oz

Water 55.00 0.539 1.188 1 3 3 3⁄4 oz

Egg yolks 16.00 0.157 0.346 5 1⁄2 1 1⁄8 oz

Sugar 24.00 0.235 0.518 8 1⁄4 1 5⁄8 oz

Malt 2.00 0.020 0.043 3⁄4 2⁄8 oz

Butter 24.00 0.235 0.518 8 1⁄4 1 5⁄8 oz

Levain (instant) 25.00 0.245 0.540 8 5⁄8 1 3⁄4 oz

Osmotolerant instant 0.30 0.003 0.006 1⁄8 1⁄8 tsp


Total 246.30 2.413 5.319 5 5 1⁄8 1 lb 1 oz

Process, First Dough

1. Mix to ingredient incorporation.

2. Ferment for 12 hours at 72F (22C).

Final Dough Formula

Ingredients Baker’s % Kilogram US decimal Lb & Oz Test

Bread flour 100.00 0.234 0.515 8 1⁄4 1 5⁄8 oz

Water 138.00 0.322 0.711 11 3⁄8 2 1⁄4 oz

Egg yolks 30.00 0.070 0.154 2 1⁄2 1⁄2 oz

Salt 6.00 0.014 0.031 1⁄2 1⁄8 oz

Oranges zested Each 1.5 1.5 1.5 1⁄3 each

Vanilla bean Each 2.5 2.5 2.5 1⁄2 each

First dough 1033.00 2.413 5.319 5 5 1⁄8 1 lb 1 oz

Sugar 100.00 0.234 0.515 8 1⁄4 1 5⁄8 oz

Butter 153.00 0.357 0.788 12 5⁄8 2 1⁄2 oz

Honey 23.00 0.054 0.118 1 7⁄8 3⁄8 oz

Candied orange peel 153.00 0.357 0.788 12 5⁄8 2 1⁄2 oz

Candied lemon peel 53.00 0.124 0.273 4 3⁄8 7⁄8 oz

Raisins 153.00 0.357 0.788 12 5⁄8 2 1⁄2 oz

Total 1942.00 4.536 10.000 10 0 2 lb

Process, Final Dough

1. Incorporate the flour, salt, first dough, egg yolks, orange zest, vanilla, and

half of the water in first speed for 3 minutes.

2. Next, mix in second speed to start to develop the gluten.

3. Add half the sugar slowly as the dough continues to develop in second speed.

4. Slowly add the remaining sugar and mix until reaches consistency of intensive


5. Add the softened butter and mix in second speed until the butter is fully

incorporated and the gluten is developed.

6. Add the honey and the rest of the water as needed in first speed.

7. Add the candied orange, lemon peel, and the raisins in first speed and mix

until well incorporated.

Process, Final Dough

Mix Intensive

DDT 78F (25C) to 85F (29C)

First fermentation 1 hour with 1 punch and fold

Divide 1 lb 2 oz (500 g) for a mold with dimensions

of [5 1⁄4 inch (13 1⁄2 cm) diameter 3 1⁄4 inch (11 1⁄2 cm)


Preshape Light boule on a buttered table

Resting time 15 to 20 minutes

Shape Boule in Panettone mold

Final proof 4 to 6 hours at 80F (27C)

Scoring Cross cut or glazing

Steam 2 seconds

Bake Convection oven, 325F (163C) for 35 minutes

My question is Do I really have to develop gluten in the first dough? this recipe just says mix until incorporation, followed by a long fermentation stage. To be honest, I was skeptical about this and developed gluten in first dough, in the second dough it took me 45 mins to develop it using a kitchen aid standup mixer, hook attch, 2nd speed. It prooffed perfectly in 6 hours but inside the oven it DID NOT rise. Flavor was good, texture was so soft and moist but it didnt grow. What do you think happened? 

Thank you so much for your help!!!



SueVT's picture

Yes, it is essential to strongly and fully develop the gluten in the first impasto. It should be done before adding yolks or butter, in my opinion.

In most panettone recipes, the majority of the flour is in the first impasto; a few recipes actually add no more flour in the second impasto. 

I haven't closely examined your recipe to check ingredient percentages, but I can say that some of the instructions are off. You might want to look at some youtube videos of panettone bakers mixing their doughs.

Anyway, panettone baking is a lot of fun, and there is always more to learn.

JConstante's picture

SueVT, thank you for answering. Will definitely try to find a better recipe, one with a gluten development in the first dough, any suggestions? by the way, I also took my time to see some of the panettone pics you uploaded in previous posts and... WOW, it looks beautiful, you mastered it!  Have you ever shared your recipe or how you refresh your lievito? 

Thanks again!



SueVT's picture

If you are just starting with panettone, the Giorilli recipe is a good and reliable one. It is a pretty standard one..

This link may be helpful:

Another place -  Here you will find a few interesting panettone recipes, some in English too. A person called Luigi Gallina works closely with the site owners and has provided a nice recipe, as well as video content. There are also some classic recipes, such as Morandin.

A book by Chambelland, Sourdough Panettone and Viennoiserie, is a great source of information as well as recipes from a number of excellent panettone chefs/bakers. I use the Roy Schwartzapel recipe from that book, which I like because it is less egg yolk-intensive. 

Have fun baking!  -- Sue


JConstante's picture

Thanks  Sue!

I  wanted to share with you that I just got Chambellad's book! Now it's time to digest it and learn more about LM.

Thanks a lot for your recommendation, will be interesting to try all those recipes and have fun!

Take care and will keep updating you, do not know when will have time but hopefully soon!


therearenotenoughnoodlesintheworld's picture
YOUTUBE VIDEO - Panettone Fatto in Casa  Video Ricetta con Lievito Naturale - Pasticceria Natale

This is a useful reference as it shows the entire process and what you are looking for at each stage.

Just a heads up, it's over 9yrs old so it isn't doesn't have that modern youtube aesthetic focusing on the person, instead it is more the old instructional vid showing you the process.

P.S. This is the recipe I use.  Way back I was looking for a reference to solve an issue - made a batch following this process and was super happy with the outcome so just kept using it. For me it has that light buttery shredyness when you pull a bit off and then it melts in the mouth. I find that is often the missing quality in many panettone.


JConstante's picture

Thanks! very helpful indeed. Like the fact that youtube has english CC to better understand it.

I'll try that recipe too.