The Fresh Loaf

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No Steps Forward, Two Steps Back :)

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

No Steps Forward, Two Steps Back :)

So not such a success yesterday.

I'll keep it short(ish:) but I figured even though it didn't go well I'd post so hopefully others on the baguette path might avoid the same mistakes.

Mistake #1 - I ran two batches at once (dmsnyder's SJSD and txfarmer's practice baguettes), and inadvertently had them both wanting to go into the oven at the same time. The SJSD were seriously overproofed by the time they got into the oven.

Mistake #2 - I tried dabrownman's simpler method of Sylvia's MegaSteam, and I messed it up, probably not enough preheat, because it sure didn't make as much steam as last time. I also used pyrex dishes instead of a superheated cast iron pan.

Mistake #3 - all of the above! I vowed that this bake was going to be about changing just one thing from the last batch (removing the steam at the peak of bloom), and ended up doing a bunch of things differently. 

So here's the bread:

Practice baguettes:

These went into the oven first and weren't as overproofed, they probably would have been pretty good if the steam had been there. One ear from 15 slashes! :) I subbed 50g of AP for 25g w/w and 25g dark rye and added 5g of water to compensate. I did like the taste better this way.

 

Crumb not too bad:

 

But what's going on with the lumpy Nessie profile?! I'm positing that I didn't overlap the slashes enough, and wondered if I made them too deep. Tried to remedy both on the SJSD loaves, but hard to tell because they bloomed so poorly.

 

SJSD:

Crumb too dense and almost zero bloom. After my previous SJSD bakes I took the dough out and let it come to room temp for nearly three hours. That, plus the delay in getting into the oven (plus the warm kitchen due to the oven) resulted in ridiculous overproofing. Despite all that, the taste, as always, was great. If I wasn't going for classic baguettes, these were actually quite nice tangy sourdough ficelle-like breads.

Anyway, there you have it. I wish it had gone better, but I'm not disheartened. I will get this!!!

Thanks all,

-Gabe

Comments

nmygarden's picture
nmygarden

Fairly ambitious to double up, but there's lots to be proud of with them. I'm sure they taste(d) great. Baguettes seem to present the biggest challenge for many of us. I wonder for pro's, how many hundred they make before they are fully confident...

My first were shaped longer than would fit in my oven (yes, I knew, but...). I had to bend them to fit, so had "U" shaped baguettes! LOL Now, when I make them, they are 'demi's'.

Cathy

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

They could be worse, but I had high hopes for this batch. It was daft of me to attempt two recipes at once.

I'm chuckling at your story. Before I bough my 22" wide stone, I tried to make my first batch on a pizza stone: ;-)

alfanso's picture
alfanso

Gabe,

As you noted, if you are trying to change something, don’t change more than one parameter at a time.  Whether the result is more wrong or more right, you won’t be able to know for certain why the change occurred.

Here is a link to a really essential TFL comment displaying a visual guide of how underproofed, proofed and overproofed baguettes should look.  Provided by Maverick from Oct. 2014 it is attributed to Ciril Hitz.
http://www.thefreshloaf.com/comment/308447#comment-308447 .

One reason for the crumb being too dense is that without the bloom, the dough has nowhere to expand to, and therefore the crumb will stay tight.  Also if the dough is overproofed, the yeast just doesn’t have the oomph to make that desperate push as it goes into its final death spiral.

Others are sure to comment on the lack of overlap on your scoring.  Recall that you should have about a third overlap for each score. Your Nessie is due to that lack of overlap.  Ciril Hitz has a video on scoring and he demonstrates that pretty clearly.  However, your ability to balance a baguette atop a can of tomatoes is admirable – at the top of your game there!

The shaping looks very good.

Steaming tips – ensure that the oven is up to temp before inserting the pan with towels.  Then give them the better part of 15 minutes, per dabrownman, before loading the dough.  He uses more than one pan.  I use a combo of one Pyrex loaf pan with a rolled up towel and also a metal pan filled with lava rocks.  The loaf pan with water is heated in my microwave before placing into the oven so it already has a nice head start.  The lava rock pan lives in my  oven and gets doused with near boiling water, 2 cups worth, just after the dough is loaded.  I see your oven door has a glass window. A cautionary tale that I am fortunately not reporting first hand is to make sure that you cover the glass door with a towel prior to pouring water into a pan in the oven.  If your aim is bad or get a spill over, etc. onto the glass in the door – you may well be cleaning up shattered glass, crying the blues and paying for a new glass window on the oven.

Although steam is really hot, without pressure it won’t rise above 212dF.  It cools down the ambient oven temperature, although a baking deck will retain its heat.

Determine what your oven temperature recovery time is.  As soon as, and every time, you open the door to the oven, heat is lost.  My oven has a slow recovery time, so I figured out that I have to literally shut the oven off and then immediately reset the bake temp to force the oven into recovery mode – after every time that I open the door.

We don’t (at least the majority of us out here) work with professional baking ovens which can have incredibly thick and dense baking decks for heat retention.  I would be cautious about doing multiple loads one immediately after the other.  I’m not certain from your post if that’s what you did, but my guess is that as you were in “quasi-panic” mode, that you did.

Your refrigerator is a retarder, and aside from chilling foods it retards the activity of whatever is placed in it.  In this case, slowing down or placing into (near) sleep mode yeasted products.  It is your friend for time/temp management.

There’s apparently a good reason why the “common knowledge” is that baguettes are the “hardest” shaping and scoring to do well.  I’m certainly not putting down any other standard shaping such as boules or batards, and I have way way less experience with them than my chosen burden in bread life, but I’m certain that I see many less frustrating posts over shaping and scoring of those than over baguettes.

If you are happy with the flavor but miserable over the look of the baguettes, they will make for excellent bread crumbs or croutons.  If all else fails, Barney should help you “bury the dead”,  just don’t make a happy dog into a corpulent one.

And finally, coming from a Bronx boy, where there was always a distinct lack of respect for Kings County (better known as Brooklyn), and I’m certain the feeling was mutual, that you have settled there is apparently the core issue and the heart of all your baking woes.

alan

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

Yep, it's frustrating when you know all the reasons for a failure but fail anyway! 

The link to differently proofed loaves is helpful.

Barney says you should be quiet, he likes my failures :)

Bronx vs. Brooklyn? I'm from England, so don't get involved in such silliness. But if I did, Brooklyn all the way, of course!

I'll have another go (ONE BATCH!) tomorrow.

Cheers,

-Gabe

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

pizza stone all of them were too long and drooped over the edge - they came out looking like they had 3"  droopy noses at both ends.   These don't look too bad and they coukd be worse as you will see later this week ....since we are baking sprouted, scalded, 20% whole multi-grain baguettes on Friday.:-)

We went back to see how we baked them in 2012.  It seems we preheated to 550 F and put the cold Mega Steam in when the oven hit the preheat mark and then waited 15 minutes for the steam to really get going and for the stone to hit the oven temperature.  We baked them at 480 F   No double loads though.

Baguettes can be frustrating but they usually taste fine no matter how they look! It will be better next time....but that is what I said last time!

Happy baguette baking 

Found a picture of the droopy nose

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

Thanks dab! I do believe you this time, even though you lied last time ;-D

I'll definitely be changing just one thing, as planned!

Cheers,

-Gabe

a_warming_trend's picture
a_warming_trend

...then you're in a really good spot. The crumb on your 36-hours is just awesome. 

When I have two separate bakes going (especially if they're high-hydration), I have found that a 15-25 minute rest in the freezer followed by a rest in the fridge (up until baking time) retards just about the right amount. And that burst of cold doesn't hurt the ovenspring!

Alan's comment was fascinating to me, but it kind of made me self-conscious too...I agree that boule-shaping is a confidence-booster, but I have yet to find a batard-shaping technique with which I'm truly confident. My batards are all over the place. 

And I didn't realize you're from England! Whereabouts? 

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

Lucy shaped today....She was all paws and then put them in couche upside down too.  Tomorrow will be a thriller.  Maybe we should bake them without slashes ala Pierre Nury style with a little 2" tug, seam side up - no slashing :-)

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

Will they be like a baguette version of Forkish's rustic seam-up boules?

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

I know, it could be worse :) I'm just looking forward to getting to the point where I have decent baguettes and at least some level of consistency with a few recipes. They were actually txfarmer's straight dough same-day baguettes, not the 36 hour ones. I have made those and they're great, but I want more practice than that schedule allows! 

I have only made batards once, and they came out pretty well. I actually really like the shape, but I figure if I can get baguettes down, batards should be less trouble (or not!). I have made so many boules in the 18 months I made them exclusively that I'm very comfortable with those.

I grew up in Manchester, was just back over for nearly three weeks over the holidays. My Mum and Sister still live there. Miss them lots.

Cheers!

-Gabe

Anconas's picture
Anconas

as long as you learned something from the experience, it is successful. 

With the practice baguettes -

I'm thinking about alfonso's comment on the scoring and your comment about the over proofing.  The steam level did allow your scores to bloom.  If the steam level was higher, it would have allowed the dough between your scores to stretch more, is that correct?  And if the scores were ideal (don't we all wish) maybe even at lower steam as you said you experienced, better scores would have mitigated the Nessie factor by allowing the scores and the dough between to expand easier, in balance to the tight and the scored? 

The crust - it appears thin, is it actually, for crispy/crunchy high bubble crackly goodness or is it right and just appears thin in photos? 

I trumped your Mistake #3 even more so, creativity or necessity often beats that logical determination to change one thing at a time into such a submissive state we only remember it in hindsight.  I'm fighting too crusted, so I'm curious on your opinion in your end result here on the crust. 

I hope you don't mind that I am analyzing your experience and changes with the practice baguettes while I do the same with mine.  Asking questions, not critiquing, just learning :)  Alfonso's link with the under proofing, just about right and over proofing - big lightbulbs for me.

I'm trying to ignore the lure of the SJSD's but Kya and Lily are hoping for shares.  Scritches to Barney, my girls are quite intrigued.

~D

 

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

And I certainly don't mind analysis and questions, that kind of dialogue is what is going to help all of us striving for good baggies to get there faster.

The crust on the straight dough version was very good, the SJSD were a bit too chewy.

I made a batch of FWSY overnight country blonde last night/this morning, but inadvertently over hydrated (he uses an 80% levain, mine was at 100%), so it was a bear to handle and way too slack. I'm not even going to bother posting the photos, but though they looked more like a baguette/ciabatta hybrid (baguetta? ciabette?), they had a nice SD tang, nice crumb and crust.

I'm currently resting the preshape for another batch of the straight dough version. NEED MORE FLOUR! :)

Cheers,

-Gabe

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

And I certainly don't mind analysis and questions, that kind of dialogue is what is going to help all of us striving for good baggies to get there faster.

The crust on the straight dough version was very good, the SJSD were a bit too chewy.

I made a batch of FWSY overnight country blonde last night/this morning, but inadvertently over hydrated (he uses an 80% levain, mine was at 100%), so it was a bear to handle and way too slack. I'm not even going to bother posting the photos, but though they looked more like a baguette/ciabatta hybrid (baguetta? ciabette?), they had a nice SD tang, nice crumb and crust.

I'm currently resting the preshape for another batch of the straight dough version. NEED MORE FLOUR! :)

Cheers,

-Gabe

PS, my last dog was called Lily! Here's a picture of Barney. 80lbs of affection and goofiness. He's so black that the best time to photograph him is when he's covered in snow :) 

Anconas's picture
Anconas

Thanks Gabe, I'm going through pics to evaluate my bakes on the practice baguettes and the visual with crispy vs. chewy in yours is very helpful.  I'm back to I'm doing it to hot so it's too fast for that crispy factor to balance with the darker, more caramelly crust flavor. 

80% plus hydration - I like sticky dough but ummm.  'Bagchiatta' - mmm, I think I'd actually like a SD Bagciatta :) 

NEED MORE FLOUR - I've used more flour in two weeks trying these things than I used to use in a year lol.  Another batch of the straight dough ones, you are on a mission.

We had a black lab named Barney as kids, he'd lay in front of the tv or the fireplace so we could rest our heads on him when we were two and five, good times.

The girls think he's a handsome snow dog, so brave without a coat!

Kya and Lily and our foster house guest, "Manji" (short for Jumanji, just off the greyhound track racing circuit)  Took over 100 photos to get a likeness of that black dog, between the black and the fact that he is never still...)  All very sweet and affectionate house horses, that really like bread :)

 

 

 

 

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

How funny that you had a dog named Barney, and I had one called Lily!

I have to admit though, I haven't named a dog out of my last three. Like you I only get rescues, and they all came with names that stuck, including one called "Gypsy", which I don't even like as a name!

Bless you for adopting retired greyhounds, they are beautiful dogs, and all have such soulful faces.

Barney is just like that - apart from the fact that he is so dark any photo looks like a room with a dog shaped hole in it, the second you point a camera at him he moves!

The latest batch of practice baguettes were my best yet, I'm happy to report! I'm being an insomniac right now but will post later.

-G

Anconas's picture
Anconas

Is very rewarding.  I've done mix breed and greyhound rescue for almost 15 years.  Track dogs all have goofy names, if the kennel attendants develop a fondness for a particular dog, they learn their "call name" but they usually are clueless and I was able to name Kya.  Lily named herself, when I brought her home her brindle pattern looked really orange in the sun and I was all "you look just like a Tiger Lily!" and she came running and sat at my feet, she was named :)  Barney suits your big guy very nicely.

Congrats on successful insomniac baking!  Sweet!  I'm doing my next batch as a pate fermentee to see how that works, fingers crossed.

PS - on the dairy matters, it is hard to find good dairy here too.  Used to have a shop that imported a bunch of really good european cheeses and that's all I ate but they switched out to US substitutes.  The US version of cheese is rather twisted imo.  I just made cultured butter, cultured buttermilk, cultured consolidated cream, and the cheese bag is hanging for cultured butter cream blocks for long term preservation - they are dreamy.  I think grocery store buttermilk is rather disgusting except in biscuits but fresh cultured buttermilk from unhomgenized, lightly pastured creamline milk (best I can get here without a cow) after making butter is excellent, tastes nothing like grocery store stuff.  Got to get those baguettes made tomorrow before I keep taste testing the butter into oblivion!

a_warming_trend's picture
a_warming_trend

My husband is from Dublin and his sister and best friend live in London. My mom does research in the Lake District most summers (she writes about Wordsworth and Coleridge and Blake and those types!). England seems to have a pretty awesome sourdough movement happening. A lot of the best sources I find seem to come from the UK in general, and England specifically. 

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

My wife works for Jameson (and some other liquor brands) and has been to Dublin several times. She has been to London more times than I have. Her anglophilia definitely worked to my advantage in our early days :) I visited Dublin maybe 30+ years ago when the reception was a bit chilly for a group of young Brits. I would love to go back now things have settled down.

Your Mum sounds very interesting and erudite! I love the Lake District. A bunch of my family and I stayed in a lovely old hotel on Lake Windermere a couple of years ago and had a great time.

I'll have to look up the UK bread scene for next time I go back. I do have one friend over there who is getting into baking, he's like a cross between you and dabrownman - wildly experimental and very serious about cramming as much wholegrain as possible into every loaf.

dabrownman's picture
dabrownman

for 20 years here in the states   Their Kerrygold brand was the best when it come to butter and the cheeses were very nice too.  We loved going to Ireland and staying at D. Allen's Ballymaloe's 14th century Norman castle ....and eating the food prepared by the staff at the cooking school for every meal was beyond belief.  The brown soad bread was the best ever.   With my family coming from Europe through Scotland to Cork in Ireland and then to the States, I'm a Beemish and Jameson's man as opposed to Guinness and Bushmills:-)  So many relatives still in Cork too.   What a great county to visit for a long, long time.

greenbriel's picture
greenbriel

Kerrygold is a great product. Good butter is seriously undervalued in the States (probably less so by TFL members!), I also like Lurpak and Plugra. Good cheese is much harder to come by here, too, and so expensive compared to the UK when you can find it.

Your visits sound idyllic, how wonderful. Irish (and all UK) food gets a bad rap that is seriously undeserved!

-G