Fitting a Tartine-Inspired Loaf into a Busy Work Week (My 24-Hour Formula)

I have to begin with a disclaimer: I do not yet own the original Tartine book. I am slow and deliberate with all of my bread-related purchases, from implements and vessels to texts. I do plan to own it by the end of this month! My other disclaimer is that I have only been baking sourdough since November 1, 2014. I know this because the camera on my phone records dates (man, was I was excited about that first loaf...).

I can't actually remember where or when I first heard about the Tartine bakery, or the books. I think I basically slowly realized that every blog I was perusing was referencing this one text--or this one person (sometimes referred to  by his first name!). The miracle of the internet has allowed me to explore the magic and mystique surrounding the simple Tartine country loaf. I've read blog posts and articles, watched videos, and looked at beautiful pictures. It's downright fascinating for me, as a complete bread newbie/outsider with an anthropology background, to follow the way this recipe has affected the world of yeast baking. With a phenomenon this far-reaching, the waves of adoration and fatigue seem inevitable. I'm so late to the game, but I'm having a lot of fun observing it. 

I actually put my finger on one of the most interesting aspects of the Tartine loaf while reading Forkish's FWSY, in which he references Robertson's method: That small amount of whole wheat flour lends the crumb an amazing creamy color, and allows the crust to reach a deep mahogany that really wouldn't be possible with an all white loaf. The idea that this sort of mimics the flour that would have been used in the bakeries dotting the 18th century French countryside...well. I love that notion so much that I kind of don't even care if it's true or not. 

I look forward to reading the 33-page recipe. I have read enough condensed versions of it to get the general idea. What I wanted to do here was create a Tartine-inspired single-loaf formula that I could work into a relatively hectic work week. I could absolutely wait until the weekend. But I've found that my baking itch is way too strong right now to wait that long in between bakes. I have to try to make sourdough baking work, even during a busy week. 

To fit it in my work schedule, I knew that I would need to increase the levain percentage enough to speed up the bulk fermentation (I go to bed kind of early!)--but not so much that the dough would over-ferment during an overnight refrigerated proof. I also knew that I wanted to be able to get through at least two hours of stretch-and-fold without the dough increasing too much in size. I've had problems with overnight proofs with anything approaching 20% levain, so I settled on what amounts to about 17% levain. The hydration is technically 78% (with levain), but I tend to add more during S & F, so it might be closer to 80%. The whole wheat flour makes that much more doable. 

This is the formula and process I settled on, after four attempts. The main changes have been allowing for room temperature proofing before retarding, and allowing for time at room temperature in the morning before baking. For me, this makes the 24-hour process work. 

Day 1

Levain (mixed at 7:00 AM)

-50 g 100% hydration rye starter

-50 g AP flour

-50 g water

Final Dough (mixing begins at 6:00 PM)

-All of the levain

-100 g whole wheat flour

-325 g AP flour

-315 g water 

-5 g malt

-11 g salt

Process: 

6:00-Mix flour and water together and autolyse for 30 minutes

6:30-Incorporate levain, salt, and malt (or sugar, when I didn't have malt) and mix for 2 minutes, then slap and fold for 3 minutes

-Stretch and fold at 20 minute intervals for the next 2 hours 

8:30-Allow dough to rest on the counter for 30 minutes

9:00-then place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes 

9:30-shape, place in banneton/basket, and proof for 1 hour at room temperature 

10:30-place in refrigerator

Day 2

6:00 AM - Remove from refrigerator 

7:00 AM - Score and bake at 450 for 30 minutes with steam, 20-25 minutes without (I'm getting bolder and bolder with my baking!)

The crust is blistered and shattery--thinner than I might have expected, but in a nice way! Very crisp. Crumb is custardy and quite open (I don't actually have the photo of my best crumb of the bunch. Frustrating!)

What would I change on a weekend, with more time? After ACTUALLY reading the recipe, I think I'll try a lot of things. Less levain. Longer autolyse. Longer refrigeration; different amounts of time proofing at room temperature before and after retarding. 

For now, I'm okay with this little week day tribute to Tartine. 

--Hannah