August 26, 2011 - 6:56pm
Brioche, suggestions on improving
I baked the PR BBA middle class brioche yesterday with somewhat of a success. I felt the texture was incredible, I enjoyed the crumb and the shape was decent. The thing I'm missing in a deep rich flavor. I feel like I could have coaxed more flavor from possibly another flour or something. I used very good quality buerremont butter and am looking for suggestions. I'll post the recipe and some pictures.
I find the BBA brioche to be less than ideal, although you might find the Rich Man's brioche a lot better.
One thought: Of all the times I've made brioche (any recipe), it's never resulted in a "mouth explosion of buttery goodness". It always tastes less buttery than I expect it to considering the amount of butter that goes into it; but, I'm in bad shape if I dare eat more than a slice or two at once, it having so much fat.
Thomas Keller's books have a recipe for Jean-Louis Palladin's brioche that's second to none. Here it is, copied from the internets:
It has more butterfat and is much richer (and a lot more expensive) than American butters.
You can usually find it in your grocer's "gourmet section" (near the cheeses, etc.)
Oops, missed the part where you said you used good butter.
Recipe and Pictures as promised.
This recipe is directly from Peter Reinhart's Bread Bakers Apprentice and I am by no means taking credit for it.
Sponge
2.25 oz Unb Bread Flour
.22 oz Instant Yeast
4 ounces whole milk, warm
Mix the sponge and allow to ferment at room temperature until at least doubled in size and collapses when tapping the bowl
Dough:
5 Large Eggs
13.75 oz UnB Bread Flour
1 oz Gran. Sugar
.31 oz Salt
8oz Unsalted Butter (I used Beurremont)
1 Egg for wash
After the spong ferments whisk in the eggs. Stir togther the dry ingredients and add the sponge/egg to the mixture. Beat on low using a paddle attachment to combine. Add the butter in several installments allowing it to emulsify before adding the next addition.
Turn the dough out onto a sheet tray lined and put it in the fridge for 4 hours or overnight.
Remove from the fridge and shape immediately. Proof until 3/4 filling the loaf pan, brush with egg wash and allow to continue to proof until the loaf fills the pan. Bake at 350 until done.
So, as far as flavor wise, I'm thinking maybe I could have cold fermented the dough for a while longer. I only did four hours. I used kosher salt by volume not by weight and maybe my measurement was a little skewed. I'm thinking the maybe I could have taken the sponge quite a bit further.
Any suggestions on the recipe would be greatly appreciated.