Breakfast loaf and pastries
Jan Hedh, the Swedish bread, pastry and chocolate master, has recently put out his second bread book; the new one is titled "Bröd & kaffebröd" ("Bread and pastries"). I've just picked it up, and baked the first loaf from that book this weekend. It's an inspiring book, written in a style similar to his first bread book, but this one's filled with even more gorgeous photos. Hedh is passionate about bread, and provides detailed recipes for several European style hearth loaves and for breakfast pastries (mostly croissant, Danish and sweet dough oriented stuff).
I decided to try his "country bread from Bayern" first, mostly because of the lovely photo of it in his book :) Hedh doesn't provide any bakers %, so I used a spreadsheet to get the figures. I decided to adjust the recipe a bit (it looked awfully dry, and slightly heavy on caraway seeds), so I ended up with something like: 50% whole spelt flour, 20% whole rye, 30% AP flour. The original hydration was at approx. 62%, so I increased that to 70%. It could've been even higher, I think. I used approx. 1% caraway seeds, and put the whole rye flour in a rye sourdough. I baked it this morning together with some croissants and other pastries shaped from the croissant dough:
I think the loaf turned out alright - it rose nicely in the oven, and smelled deliciously of caraway and earthy wheat/spelt. The flavour is similar to that of a mostly whole-wheat bread, but the rye and caraway makes it a bit more exciting. Filling and delicious with hard cheese!
The mandatory crumbshot (I know people get upset if there's no shot of the crumb, so here you go!) reveals a pretty dense crumb, so next time I'll increase the hydration further and perhaps see what a poolish+rye sourdough can do to loosen it up a bit.
Comments
Everything looks perfect, Hans, including the crumb.
With all those beautiful pastries you bake, how do you keep in Ninja shape? ;-)
It's been a while since graduation from ninja high, but I do recall two of the commandments going something like "Know when you've had enough" and "Keep a big freezer". The exact phrasing is probably off, but I believe the essence is there. My favourite of the commandments is probably "Don't shy away from sweet stuff".
It's so nice to have a new book around and it sounds like a very good one! Your pastries are making me weak and the filling is?...I don't have a big freezer! I love the ingredients in your boule creation..it sounds delicious!
Sylvia
Lovely.
David
Very nice hansjoakim, as usual. Do you keep laminated dough in the freezer for such occasions? When I see your croissants it makes me want to make some. I ordered one for breakfast yesterday and about gagged on it.
Eric
Thank you everyone, for those kind comments!
Sylvia: The book is very nice, and I'm looking forward to trying more of his recipes. A lot of them seem to need more water, though. Hedh's first bread book is translated into English, but I think this new one is more attractive and has a greater selection of interesting breads. I wouldn't be surprised if it gets a proper translation soon.
Carl and Sylvia: Oh the filling, uhm.. mainly stuff I had in the fridge that I had to put to good use! A thin spread of almond paste on the bottom, and then pastry cream and raspberry jam on top. Very good and not very healthy! ;)
Eric: Thank you! No, I make it fresh each time. I've been thinking about freezing it, but I've read accounts where the thawed dough or made-up pastry have been rather lacking in volume. Besides, I really like working with laminated dough, so I'll use any excuse to make a fresh batch :) I do freeze puff pastry, but there's no yeast in that, so no thawing issues to worry about.
I'm using a straight croissant dough mostly: Mix the dough in the evening and give it 60 mins. on the counter before retarding overnight. Next morning, prepare butter block and commence rolling+folding. This is really nice to have going if you're already around the kitchen mixing or folding other bread doughs, so it's not like you have to sacrifice a whole day to make a couple of croissants. These are things that I like to make myself, because the butter quality is so essential to getting a decent result. I've used French unsalted butter with great results so far, and I think the taste is superior to most croissants I've bought lately.
I found this post rather interesting, perhaps you will too:
http://www.doriegreenspan.com/2009/10/a-butter-tip-sheet-a-recipe-for-brioche.html
Awesome stuff, thanks for that RobynNZ :)
So... gotta stock up on winter butter, I guess.
That's beautiful Bread or Bröd & kaffebröd! And look at the forms! The only thing wrong with the crumb shot is that it's not within reach!
Mini
Thanks, Mini, you know how to win me over :)
What's weird about the crumb (and crust for that matter), is that it's nowhere near the colour of the loaf from the book. In Hedh's book, this bread resembles a white pain au levain or Italian-style loaf, with a creamy white interior and golden crust. With that much whole spelt in the dough, there's no way I'm getting anything but an earthy brown crust colour and ditto crumb. I like it, but I'm suspecting Mr. Hedh isn't using the same recipe as me... *hmm*
I have a sweet little house attached to ours and would love to have you live there. I could be forever happy just inhaling the fragrance of your baked goods. Not that I wouldn't expect a croissant or one of your ryes now and then!
Everything you bake is tops.
weavershouse
they look great, HJ. Never consider going in this direction, but with these results, maybe I should give it a try.
Cheers,
Jw.